The Pinot Noir varietal is a favorite among many wine aficionados. Pinot Noir is derived from the
French words meaning “pine” and “black” which is based on the varietals’ tightly clustered dark purple pine cone-shaped bunches of fruit. Pinot Noir grapes are grown in cooler regions all over the world which was evident at tonight’s tasting, we had examples from California, Oregon, France, Austria and New Zealand. These are not the only countries that grow this varietal, there are many more. The most recognized and prized Pinot Noir wines are those from Burgundy, France. The area in Burgundy most highly recognized is the Cote-d’Or (“slope of gold”) region where the most cherished Burgundy wines like Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Meursalt and Montrachet are produced. This region continuously produces great Burgundy wines.
The Pinot Noir grape is one of the oldest grape varietals used for producing wine. History shows that it dates back to the first century AD where ancient Romans were making wines from this varietal. This is a very difficult grape to make wines that are consistent from vintage to vintage as the grape has genetic issues that affect aging, flavors, aromas, etc. The problem is that the offspring of the parent does not show consistent characteristics allowing vintners to produce consistent wines. Amphelographers estimate that there are 200 – 1000 clones of the Pinot Noir grape in the world.
What is interesting is that California Pinot Noirs have been gaining a lot of popularity based on improvements in their clone selections, viticulture methods, and vinification techniques. The New world Pinot Noirs and the French Burgundy wines were the most represented at our tasting and showed that there is a big difference in styles. The California, Oregon and even the New Zealand example of this grape seduced the palate with a barrage of deliciously explosive fruit. Meanwhile other subtle aromatics and flavor components can be found but are in the background. The French Burgundy wines are more distinguished, than the New World fruit forward style, showing a more delicate and finesse style with complex layered flavors and aromas. The red Burgundies are lighter on the palate displaying a slight dryness on the finish which is a common trait found in most French wines.
It is interesting that the fruit forward styles are the most popular yet some wineries in California are breaking away from this style to produce wines that have more finesse and drier on the palate. My feeling is that most will stick with the fruit forward style Pinot Noirs.
Below are the typical flavors and tastes of Pinot Noirs:
Typical Pinot Noir Smell and/or Flavor Descriptors
Varietal Aromas/Flavors:
• Fruit: cherry, strawberry, raspberry, ripe tomato
• Floral: violet, rose petal
• Spice: sassafras, rosemary, cinnamon, caraway, peppermint
• Herbal: rhubarb, beet, oregano, green tomato, green tea, black olive
Processing Bouquets/Flavors:
• Terroir: mushroom, earth, barnyard, truffle, leather, meat
• Oak (light): vanilla, coconut, sweet wood
• Oak (heavy): oak, smoke, toast, tar
• Bottle Age: cedar, cigar box
Wines Poured:
2007 Hunter’s Pinot Noir – New Zealand
Aromas:
• Cherry
• Leather
• Pepper
• Spicy bramble berry fruit
Flavors:
• Pepper
• Leather
• Smooth
Color:
• Bright cherry red
Professional Notes:
Rating:
• Wine Enthusiast: 88
Tasting Notes:
Wine Enthusiast A nice Pinot at a nice price, kicking off with lifted cherry fruit and a tinge of minty greenness. It’s medium in body, with delicate and supple tannins framing clean, fresh cherry flavors. Finishes soft, easy and with decent length and intensity, making it a pleasant quaff for spring and into summer. Score: 88. —Joe Czerwinski, March 01, 2009.
2005 Hopler Pinot Noir – Austria
Aromas:
• Earthy
Flavors:
• Minerals (end of taste)
• Sweet finish
Color:
• Toned down red, slightly brown, caramel
Professional Notes:
Rating:
• NA
Winemaker’s notes:
Dark red burgundy with characteristically fine strains of marzipan and wild berries. A refined, velvet elegance defines this wine as an excellent representative of the variety. Pinot Noir presents a unique test for the soil, climate and the winegrower. The wine ripens on the east slopes of the Leitha hills, the perfect environment to achieve the best quality. Most pleasurable when enjoyed with lightly fried chanterelles or delicacies with duck.
2006 Domaine Debray Burgundy Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses- France
Aromas:
• Faint dry cherry
• Earthy
Flavors:
• Tart
• Slightly acidic
• Grapefruit
2005 Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire En Bollery Pinot Noir – France
Domaine David Clark
Aromas:
• Non-buttered popcorn
• Sulfur
• Light dry cherry
Flavors:
• Cherry
• Layered complexity
• Light minerality
2007 Belle Pente Pinot Noir Dundee Hills – Oregon
Aromas:
• Non-buttered popcorn
• Light cherry
• Spicy bramble berry fruit
• Sulfur
• Bleu Cheese
Flavors:
• Sweet
• Smooth
• Cherry
• Slightly dry
• Hint of blackberry
Professional Notes:
Rating:
• Stephen Tanzer: 88pts
Tasting Notes:
Light, hazy red. Redcurrant and strawberry aromas are complemented by notes of white pepper and dried herbs. Light-bodied and a touch dry, offering brisk red fruit flavors and no apparent tannins. This easy-drinking pinot finishes with good clarity and sweetness.
2007 Babcock Grand Cuvee Pinot Noir – Santa Rita Hills Calif.
Aromas:
• Wet straw
• Barnyard
Professional Notes:
Tasting Notes:
Steve Heimoff, Wine Enthusiast: “An easy, likeable Pinot Noir. It’s drinkable now for its light, silky texture and savory cherry, cola and spice flavors.”
Winemaker’s notes:
40 cases produced This year’s Pinot Noir from Bryan is a Wine Cask exclusive!! He has taken 2 of his precious Pinot Noir barrels and blended a cuvee just for us! Both barrels are from the famed Ocean’s Ghost vineyard. As described in years past, this vineyard is the first vineyard on property to get the effects of the proximity to the ocean. 2007 was a beautiful crop that had much less quantity but just bursting with intensity. With only 1 ton per acre, the fruit showed opulent raspberries with a spice box finish. Everyone should try a bottle of this wine. Not only because it is an exclusive but because it is just outstanding.
2007 Rusack Pinot Noir – Santa Maria Calif
Aromas:
• Pencil lead
• Sour cherry
Flavors:
• Pencil Lead
• Sour cherry
• Hint of pepper
• Heavy
• Smooth
• Medium – jammy
Professional Notes:
Tasting Notes:
This wine is a smoky ruby color. The nose starts with strong notes of caraway and coffee that diminish over the course of the bottle. Prominent strawberry and cherry are backed by light floral notes. The palate shows greater breadth of fruit: medium intensity cherry and strawberry embellished by rosehip notes. An appropriate combination of lean and toned tannins, clean, bright acidity and medium extraction along with well-restrained alcohol levels make for a lighter body and delicate mouthfeel. A modest finish consists of strawberry and cherry flavors.
Delicate and balanced, this is a focused and well proportioned wine with and egalitarian marriage of fruit and spice. Shy at first, this wine benefits from decanting which coaxes out its red fruit and rosy notes. Broadly straddling the social-to-food-friendly spectrum, this wine will pair well with many earthy, traditional dishes for up to 4 years.
2006 August West Pinot Noir Rosella Vineyard – Santa Lucia Highlands, Calif
Aromas:
• Vanilla
• Floral – Perfume fragrance
• Strawberry
Flavors:
• Vanilla
• Smooth
• Tart strawberry
Professional Notes:
Winemaker’s notes:
Producer notes: “The Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is the wine which launched the August West label in 2002. In a way, we could call it our flagship wine. The 2006 version shows classic Rosella’s Vineyard characteristics, and is a testament to Gary Franscioni’s unparalleled farming of his vineyard. It starts with the intriguingly spicy and fruit-driven nose which immediately tells you the wine is from the Santa Lucia Highlands. The natural acidity on the palate brings the wonderful rhubarb and cola flavors into focus in time for the long, slightly toasty finish. The 2006 Rosella’s Pinot Noir should drink well from the end of 2008 through at least 2012. 477 cases produced.”
2006 Ken Brown Pinot Noir – Santa Rita Hills, Calif.
Aromas:
• Cherry
• Fruity
• Nectarines
• Light vanilla
• Carmel
Flavors:
• Cherry
Professional Notes:
Rating:
• Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine: 90 points
Tasting Notes:
“Strongly suggestive of sweet cherries, raspberries and toast in both its aromas and easy-to-taste flavors, this rich, generously filled Pinot leans a little to ripeness but never goes over the late-harvest line. Its palpable heat is easier to overlook in light of its overall richness and depth, and, at the end, its juicy fruit simply refuses to quit.” (Oct. 2008) The 2006 vintage of Ken Brown’s Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir marries cool-climate Babcock Vineyard fruit with grapes from the slightly warmer Rio Vista Vineyard, located in the southeast corner of the Sta. Rita Hills appellation. Like opening a box of Mexican chocolate-covered cherries when you pop the cork, the aromas carry over to the palate, which is fleshed out by the subtle smokiness of well-integrated French oak. The wine’s mouthfilling mid-palate and velvety tannins make this an easy drink now, but will lend themselves nicely to some cellar age, too.
2007 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Chevillon (Burgundy) – France
Aromas:
• Noticeable alcohol
• Buttered popcorn
• Grapefruit rind
• Very light cherry (background)
Flavors:
• Grapefruit
• Long Finish
2007 Fritz Pinot Noir – Russian River
Aromas:
• Dark cherries
• Berries
Flavors:
• Dark Cherries
• No tannins
• Slightly jammy
• Fruit forward
• Complex
Color:
• Claret
Professional Notes:
Our Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a blend of four clones. Aged in 40% new French oak for 11 months. This wine expresses aromas of blackberries and dried cranberries, followed by tobacco and vanilla notes. The palate lends flavors of black cherry, cocoa and spice with well integrated tannins
Conclusion:
Pinot Noir wines are one the most sought after wines in the world whether it is called Blauburgunder, Burgundy, Spätburgunder, Pinot Nero or Pinot Noir it is cherished and relished by all. During our Grape of the Night meeting we sampled wines from various countries as well as different regions of California. Each offered a difference based on terroir. The consensus that I seem to receive from the group is that about 75% of the group enjoyed the New World style Pinots as compared to France. With this poll I am curious why some California wineries are trending toward producing Pinots that are more finesse oriented and delicate like those produced in France. Some wineries like William Seylem already produce this style and are highly sought after.
I hope everyone enjoyed our tasting and walked away with a better overview and understanding of the Pinot Noir wines. As always, I want to thank Valencia Wine Company for hosting our group and making available so many unique examples of Pinot Noir. Guy Lelarge and his entire staff (Jeff, Kevin and Julie) as always were there to help make the evening fun, educational and memorable.
Please provide comments in Eve’s Wine 101 Blog (http://www.evewine101.blogspot.com/) on the various Pinots that we tried and what you liked or disliked. I would both welcome and appreciate it.
For the next Grape of the Night we will share and sample Syrah/Shiraz wines. Here is another varietal that is grown in many regions and countries. The group was fantastic in selecting wines from all over for the Pinot Noir tasting and I hope this will continue in our future meetings. This is definitely the best way to broaden ones knowledge on wines. The next meeting will be at Valencia Wine Company on February 1, 2010 at 7:00PM. As always I look forward to seeing you all there.
Cheers,
Rusty Sly
