Review: On The Rocks Book About Restaurateur Joseph Costanzo – Culinary Memoir and Crime Story

Love getting wine or food related books for review, especially if the subject is new for me. Such was the case when I was offered the interestingly titled book, On the Rocks, by Maria C. Palmer and Ruthie Robbins. This is what I knew before I started reading:

“Brimming with all the flavors of pasta puttanesca and peppered with characters just as colorful, On the Rocks shares for the first time the true story of the meteoric rise and fall of popular Pittsburgh area restaurateur Joseph Costanzo, Jr. Written by Joe’s daughter Maria C. Palmer and co-author Ruthie Robbins, On the Rocks traces the grit, persistence and sacrifices behind the creation of the world-class Primadonna Restaurant, where Costanzo’s larger-than-life personality and incredible cuisine drew the attention of celebrities, sports figures and journalists — and eventually the federal government.

Within its first week of presales on Amazon.com, On the Rocks ranked in the top 100 books for white collar crime true story.”

Well. After that I was immediately craving Italian food, going behind-the-scenes in a popular restaurant, and learning what happened from the starter to the final course!

My Review

As is my habit, I make notes almost on every chapter. Also, as is my habit, I bullet point my review to make it easier for me to put down all of my thoughts – and to make it bite-sized (Get it? Bite-sized restaurant review?) for my readers. So here goes:

  • The title of the book, On The Rocks, is set in the dicey neighborhood of Mckees Rocks, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania (only two square miles) and is where Joseph Costanzo grew up. The area is an “unlikely” popular spot for what turns out to be a multi-award winning restaurant, the Primadonna. The title also refers to drinking!
  • The restaurant’s popularity was not built on the social media we have nowadays, instead Costanzo built long-standing loyal relationships with his customers by listening to them – just as he did in his job as a postal worker prior to the restaurant taking off. Costanzo’s personality shines brighter and brighter as his customer base grew. He credits a lot of his initial and lengthy success to one reviewer, Mike Kalina, and his reviews – which are included in the book if you want the specifics!
  • Costanzo received more than one citation for serving alcohol past the two am legal closing time, he argued that he was trying to feed his family and grow his business, and made no other excuse. He was met with some leniency.
  • Costanzo said no to gaming machines, though they would’ve brought him more business, as his eye was on the prize: a classy establishment.
  • Once Kalina’s first review was in the newspaper lines formed around the building, and Costanzo did not accept reservations. Though, he did make room for celebrities when they wanted to visit, starting with Jamie Lee Curtis around the time her blockbuster film A Fish Called Wanda was released. Many sports stars, including Tommy Lasorda, also began to frequent the Primadonna, as well as a possible stalker, a stripper and some unsavory characters. The latter Costanzo did his best to discourage from entering or hanging around nearby.
  • Costanzo’s ideas and brainstorming warranted him success in the bottled salad dressing industry, as well as upgrading his menu, wine list, décor and even his own wardrobe did.
  • Costanzo has stories from misfit staff to helping a pal get a full pension, from being asked by actor Danny Aiello to join his table to Sinatra’s to-go order. He also has tales of being accused of money laundering, paying staff in cash, tax evasion and even paying for his glowing reviews, which he stalwartly denies. And the decades of awards he achieved show that he didn’t work hard in vain.
  • His wife, children and mother play a huge role in Costanzo’s life. And his slight foray into politics, and the money it would cost his family, played a costly – but lesser role – in his story.
  • While Costanzo gave a lot away – from free zucchini to every customer, his mother’s homemade apple pie, food to those that couldn’t afford it and cash to those that needed more – he neglected to make any kind of record. This may or may not have helped him in the end when he did face federal charges for tax evasion.

Not to give away too much, Costanzo did do a couple of things that landed him in hot (pasta lol) water, and I think anyone considering a career in the restaurant or bar industry should take note of that. The repercussions of the way he ran his restaurant, ultimately cost him much more than he had planned to lose. It’s a worthwhile read, a cautionary tale so to speak, but it ends well.

Press Release

On the Rocks: The Gritty True Story Behind the Rise and Fall of Legendary Restaurateur Joseph Costanzo, Jr.

“The intangibles that enabled me to achieve my greatness also contained the seeds to my destruction.” – Joseph Costanzo, Jr.

Ringwood, NJ, June 15, 2023 — The behind-the-scenes true story of Pittsburgh area restaurateur Joseph Costanzo, Jr., is a study in contradictions. A complex character, Costanzo was at once confident yet unaware; generous yet egotistical; and meticulous yet careless.

The son of Italian immigrants, Costanzo turned the blue collar burb of McKees Rocks, Pennsylvania, into a sought-out destination for fine Italian dining at The Primadonna, which in its heyday drew the attention of celebrities, sports icons and well-known journalists — and eventually the federal government.

Known for its signature Southern Italian dishes that nourished stomachs and souls, The Primadonna’s generous portion sizes were eclipsed only by Costanzo’s larger-than-life personality, explains his daughter Maria C. Palmer.

“The moment that you walked in, regardless of how busy we were, my dad was at the front of the house, and he was greeting you,” Palmer recalled during a recent interview. “My dad was invested in customers. He wanted to be part of people’s lives. I think that’s what makes this experience so memorable. People loved being special.”

In her new book, On the Rocks, Palmer and co-author Ruthie Robbins, who was Palmer’s high school English teacher, open a door to the past and welcome readers to The Primadonna, where Costanzo treated neighborhood regulars with the same warmth and hospitality with which he greeted the likes of Danny Aiello, Jamie Lee Curtis and Tommy Lasorda.

Written from Costanzo’s perspective, On the Rocks traces his unlikely rise from a postal worker with an impossible dream to owner of a nationally acclaimed restaurant. Along the way, On the Rocks serves up quirky characters, entertaining stories, delectable dishes, celebrity sightings, great memories and enduring friendships.

A classic example of blind ambition, Costanzo is at once the driving force behind his success and the cause of his own downfall. And as the story unfolds, readers follow Costanzo from the day-to-day frenzy of a hot-spot restaurant to life behind bars.

“The restaurant was like his third child; it was the son he never had,” Palmer reflected. “He was at the top of his game when everything spiraled out of control. That’s what makes this story so rich. He really did the impossible. He took this nothing, failing business and turned it into this diamond in the rough. Then it all got pulled away. Just as fast as it rose, it fell.”

About the Authors

Maria Costanzo Palmer is a writer and Page Turner Award Finalist for her co-authored book, On the Rocks. She is also a regular co-moderator for the Food Is Religion Club on Clubhouse. A former host on L.A. Talk Radio, she was recently featured on Food and Beverage Magazine Live, a nationally syndicated podcast, as well as iHeartRadio. Her writing has been published in OC87 Recovery Diaries, and she has made a number of media appearances.

Growing up as the oldest child of an award-winning restaurateur, Palmer unexpectedly became a daughter of the incarcerated. This experience ignited an interest in working for Get on the Bus, a nonprofit dedicated to uniting children with their incarcerated parents.

Ruthie Robbins is an award-winning educator who worked for the Montour School District in the suburbs of Pittsburgh and for Johns Hopkins Talent Development Secondary. Robbins now teaches English and Language Arts in Buffalo, New York. Well-known as co-creator of a popular amusement park interdisciplinary unit, she is currently working on other books and is preparing to launch The Writing Factory Online, a comprehensive writing program for middle schools.

For more information, please visit www.mariacpalmer.com or www.ruthierobbins.com;  or connect with the authors on Facebook: www.facebook.com/joecostanzoprimadonna; Instagram: www.instagram.com/joecostanzoprimadonna; Twitter: www.twitter.com/mariacpalmer; Clubhouse: @maria.palmer; and LinkedIn: Maria Costanzo Palmer and Ruthie Robbins.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Rocks-Primadonna-Story-Maria-Palmer/dp/B0C67L5P2Y/

On the Rocks

Publisher: Koehler Books

Release Date: August 8, 2023

ISBN-13: ‎979-8-88824-027-4 (soft cover)

ISBN-13: 979-8-88824-029-8 (hard cover)

ISBN-13: 979-8-88824-028-1 (e-book)

Available for pre-order from Amazon.com and at the Senator John Heinz History CenterEve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, Cellarmasters, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.