Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Thacher Winery dinner at Tam O’Shanter

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We recently wrote about a wine dinner at Tam O’Shanter restaurant featuring Carol Shelton Wines that we were unfortunately unable to attend. At the time, we had resolved to do our best to make it to the next wine dinner at The Tam, and that opportunity came sooner than expected when Tam O’Shanter paired up with Thacher Winery of Paso Robles.

Michelle and Sherman Thacher discovered the Kentucky Ranch in what is now the Adelaida AVA of Paso Robles in 2003 when they attended a wedding there. They ended up buying the property soon thereafter and Thacher Winery officially opened in 2008, in time for their fourth harvest. The focus is primarily on Rhone varietals and Zinfandel from a combination of estate and purchased fruit. We’ve tasted and enjoyed the Thacher wines at events but have not yet visited the winery.

It is always an eye-opening and palate-gratifying reminder what a talented executive chef such as The Tam’s JC Salazar can do when using his expertise to create dishes to pair with selected wines. An added bonus was having Tony Quealy, Thacher Winery’s General Manager, available to discuss the wines and the winery.

Here is the menu with our comments in italics:

Lemon Hamachi Crudo – fennel, cucumber, apple-pear, watermelon radish, aguachile, smoked salt paired with 2021 Own Rooted Chenin Blanc – Shell Creek Vineyard, Highlands District, Paso Robles AVA.

First of all, kudos for using Chenin Blanc, a much overlooked grape these days. Even more kudos for using grapes from a vineyard planted in 1972. With a lemon and apricot nose, it was crisp and clean with grapefruit notes. Moderate acidity and body and very well balanced with a medium to long finish. The wine was a perfect accompaniment to the refreshing and complex crudo and was perfectly timed to the hot-day segueing into a pleasantly cool evening.    

Lamb, Lavender & Plums – New Zealand Lamb Rack, Romanesco succotash, plum chutney, lavender honey paired with 2019 Constant Variable – Central Coast.

Is there a better pairing with lamb than Rhone varietals? We think not. In this case, the wine was a blend of 37% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 7% Cinsaut, 7% Counoise and 2% Viognier. Tony referred to this as Thacher’s flagship wine. The deep burgundy/maroon wine presented with dark, ripe stone fruit and a hint of white pepper on the nose. There were spicy notes from the Counoise along with a hint of baking spices. Extremely well balanced in body and acidity with added freshness from the Cinsaut. The mouthfeel was full and the finish was long. All the varietals were barreled separately except for the co-fermented Syrah and Viognier. The richness of the lamb with the chutney and honey proved to be both sweet and savory and this wine helped to bring out these aspects.

Certified Angus NY Strip – potato fondant, glazed Globe carrots, asparagus ribbons, shiitake demi paired with 2018 Original Copy – Adelaida District, Paso Robles AVA.

As lamb pairs with Rhone varietals, beef pairs with Bordeaux varietals. In this case, a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 14% Cabernet Franc combine to make a wine that is deep, dark, rich burgundy in color with aromas of ripe plum. Nicely structured and medium-bodied, with earthy and smoky nuances and a medium to long finish. The bold flavors of the perfectly cooked steak dipped in the demi went hand in hand with the Bordeaux blend.

Olive Oil Cake – macerated cherries, almond brittle, Fosselman’s vanilla ice cream paired with 2020 Working Holiday, Cass Vineyard Red, Paso Robles Geneseo District, Paso Robles AVA.

The dessert was not overly sweet and was delightful with this fruit forward wine from the renowned Cass vineyard on the east side of Paso Robles. A combination of 54% Syrah, 37% Grenache and 9% Mourvedre, this Rhone blend and lively, ripe raspberry on the nose and followed through with the same on the palate. A perfect way to end a perfect dinner, leaving you satisfied and looking forward to the next time.

In addition to greatly enjoying our dinner, we learned a few things about Thacher Winery from GM Tony Quealy. Production is about 5,000 cases, of which about 65% is Estate. Estate growth is being expanded, including plantings of Mencia, a red grape grown in Spain and Portugal, as well as a mixed white field blend. The logo for Thacher Winery is a grasshopper, based on the Thacher family crest going back to Sherman’s English heritage. And shortly after we attended the dinner, we learned that Brenna Hill had been promoted from Cellar Lead to Assistant Winemaker at Thacher.

We want to thank Tam O’Shanter management and staff for an excellent dinner, both in food and service. We have never felt better taken care of. We are looking forward to the next wine dinner to see what imaginative dishes Executive Chef JC will come up with, although we will definitely be revisiting Tam O’Shanter before then. And the Thacher Winery and Vineyard will be on our agenda the next time we are in Paso Robles, one of our absolute favorite stomping grounds.

Thacher Winery & Vineyard

www.thacherwinery.com

8355 Vineyard Dr, Paso Robles, CA 93446

The Tam O’Shanter Restaurant

www.lawrysonline.com/tam-o-shanter

2980 Los Feliz Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90039Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Vintage Eve 3/2018: Appellation Alentejo in Portugal, A Tasting and Masterclass

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One rare not-so-sunny day I traveled to the Mondrian Los Angeles in West Hollywood for a wine class and tasting on the Alentejo region of Portugal. My education on Portugal had been, up to this point, mostly spent on the obvious: Ports. However, as a wine writer, it’s always special to not only taste new wines but also have the additional benefit of learning. Here goes…

Image from CellarTours.com

The Masterclass

The session will be presented by Evan Goldstein, MS, one of our industry’s most engaging and informed wine educators, in addition to being a leading expert on Portuguese wines. At the masterclass, Evan will offer a snapshot of the grapes, zones, sub-zones and characteristics that define Alentejo’s wines and collectively establish it as one of the most promising wine regions in southern Europe today.

Takeaways for Wine 101ers

  • Three sides of Portugal is bordered by Spain.
  • It takes less than 90 minutes to travel by train from Lisbon to Alentejo.
  • Alentejo covers one third of Portugal.
  • Alentejo is the size of Belgium.
  • They’ve been making wine for over 4,000 years; the Roman settlers were the first to plant vineyards.
  • They are 9th in the world in vineyard acreage.
  • They are 11th in total worldwide production (USA is 4th)
  • Portuguese have the largest wine consumption in the world, 54 liters per person per year.
  • Nearly 80% of the wines are reds.
  • Blending is allowed and they “embrace everybody’s grapes” in Alentejo.

Tasting

We had 12 wines to taste, starting with a sparkling Rose, two whites and the remainder were all reds. Evan wanted us to taste blind – this was lost on me as no one seemed that familiar with the grapes to begin with, we were there for a lesson, so not sure why the blind format – but it didn’t slow us down. In fact, by “halftime” we had been given less time to evaluate each wine.

Surrounded by fellow media and some members of the trade, we began our task. Number, year, producer and then the name of the wines are below. The many wine grape varietals are in parenthesis.

 

Rose: 2014 Herdade do Rocim, Espumante Brut Rose (Touriga Nacional)

Color: fresh peach.

Aroma: strawberry, cherry blossom, French toast, yeast.

Flavor: cherry, strawberry, tart, medium acid.

 

One: 2015 Rui Reguinga, Terrenus Reserva Branco (field blend of mixed whites)

Color: 24 carat gold.

Aroma: honey, kiwi, stone fruit.

Flavor: green apple, grapefruit, orange zest, medium acid.

 

Two: 2016 Luis Duarte, Rubrica Branco (Antao Val, Verdelho and Viognier)

Color: pale gold.

Aroma: green hay, barnyard, yeast and cheddar cheese.

Flavor: sweetened grapefruit, tinny, good mouth-coating viscosity, short finish.

 

Three: 2013 Susana Esteban, Procura Tinto (Field blend, Alicante Bouschet)

Color: purple.

Aroma: blue to black fruit, Cabernet-like, chocolate.

Flavor: dry, tannic, dried dark fruit.

 

Four: 2013 Joao Portugal Ramos, Vila Santa Reserva Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo – as well as Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet)

Color: dark garnet.

Aroma: red fruit, stems, cigar, wet bark, medicinal.

Flavor: red fruit and stems again.

 

Five: 2011 Mouchao, Tinto (Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira – commonly used in port wine reduction but I didn’t know that until I looked up the grape!)

Color: dark purple.

Aroma: sweet, port-like, blueberry, blackberry jam.

Flavor: drier in mouth than expected, same port-like qualities and cigar.

 

Six: 2014 Esporao, Reserva Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo –as well as Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet.)

Color: dark purple.

Aroma: cigar, dark chocolate, espresso, mint.

Flavor: mature fruit, balanced with spice, good dark fruit.

This was the first of my favorites in the tasting.

 

Seven: 2014 Cartuxa, Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo – as well as Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira.)

Color: purple.

Aroma: pungent red to blue fruit – a lot, and a nice amount of spice.

Flavor: black fruit, balanced, spice milder.

This was the second of my favorites.

 

Eight: 2012 Dona Maria, Grande Reserva Tinto (Alicante Bouschet, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Touriga Nacional)

Color: dark purple.

Aroma: tart nose of blueberry, dark cherry and white pepper.

Flavor: red fruit, some spice, tannic.

 

Nine: 2015 Cooperativa Granja Amaraleja, Moreto Pe-Franco Tinto (100% Moreto – in amphora!)

Color: dark garnet.

Aroma: sweet, stewed fruits, plump raisings, milk chocolate, dark cherry.

Flavor: Nice big, bold and dark fruit, good spice.

My third favorite in the tasting. Been a long time since I had a clay pot, aka amphora, wine.

 

Ten: 2015 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova, Malhadinha Tinto (Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Tinta Miuda and Touriga Nacional.)

Color: dark garnet.

Aroma: fresh bowl of cut red fruit, juicy darker fruits, mint, earth.

Flavor: deep, layered, balanced fruit, spice and tannins.

Also a favorite for me.

 

Eleven: 2013 Cortes de Cima, Tinto (Aragonez – aka Tempranillo – as well as Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Petit Verdot.

Color: dark red.

Aroma: red to blue fruit, nicely balanced.

Flavor: heavy red fruit, deep, flavors well integrated.

 

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Facebook: Wines of Alentejo USA

Twitter: @winesofalentejo

Instagram: winesofalentejousa

#WinesOfAlentejo

http://www.winesofportugal.com/us

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Recognition for Madera Wine Trail Vintners

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MADERA, CA (JULY 7, 2020) – The results are in from the distinguished Sunset International Wine Competition which took place in June.

Several Madera County wineries received high recognition. Ficklin Vineyards received double gold, 95 points, for both their Aged 10 Years Tawny Port and the Old Vine Tinta Port.
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Westbrook Wine Farm’s 2015 Fait Accompli, a co-fermented field blend of 6 grape varieties, earned gold and 91 points.
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The Sunset International Wine Competition also awarded San Joaquin Winery silver for their 2018 Moody Press Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018 Paul Lorry Merlot, 2018 Toschi Vineyards Pinot Noir and 2019 Moody Press Cellars Sauvignon Blanc.

This year’s Sunset International Wine Competition saw a 10% increase in entries over last year, despite the pandemic, and was held in Santa Rosa the week of June 22. A record 12 judging panels were needed to accommodate the volume of entries, along with physical distancing requirements. Judging panels were comprised of 36 industry experts, including journalists, buyers and winemakers, who judged wines from all over the world.

A complete list of medal winners from the Sunset International Wine Competition from the Madera and Fresno area can be viewed here.

In the Monterey Wine Festival Judging, Fäsi Estate Winery’s Central Coast label Buoyant earned gold for their 2018 Pinot Noir and Fäsi Estate Winery’s Rose Bianca and Rose Syrah received bronze.

For more information about the awards and wineries contact the Madera Vintners Association at 559-975-6083 or wendy@maderavintners.com or visit www.MaderaWineTrail.com.

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Along the way, discover incredible dining, talented tradespersons, four-seasons of water sports at Bass Lake, the Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad and mighty adventures right up to the massive Giant Sequoia trees. Madera County is the gateway to so much more.

Grown in Los Angeles: Eve Gets A Taste of LA Wine

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What a treat! Tasting from only four wineries – that specialize in making wine from LA County grapes! I knew three of the four already from past tastings, but this time it was a true focus on what they can do as we compared each. Below is the invite, wine list (hyperlinks go to their Facebook pages) and my notes. Photos are here.

Jasper Dickson at the helm of his winery. (Co-owner Amy Luftig Viste not pictured.)

Invitation

Come join The Los Angeles Vintner’s Association at Angeleno Wine Company …for an extraordinary tasting of locally grown, Los Angeles wine! We’ve gathered four amazing local wineries, and assembled a line-up of 10+ incredible wines, all grown right here in Los Angeles County. Come meet the winemakers, and discover the true potential of local wine as you taste your way through this diverse collection of styles, single varietals, and blends.

Participating wineries include: Angeleno Wine Company, Acri Wine Co, Byron Blatty Wines, and Cavaletti Vineyards.

Acri Wine Company – This was a new winery for me to try. All were barrel samples but showed great fruit and potential. Especially the 2019 Sangiovese, also from the Antelope Valley. My husband liked the depth in the 2018 Syrah and likewise thought it would cellar nicely.

2018 Syrah, Antelope Valley

2019 Zinfandel Barrel Sample, Antelope Valley

2019 Sangiovese, Antelope Valley.

Angeleno Wine Company – Our host winery for the event, about 60 minutes away and definitely worth a visit. Besides the list below I also snagged a sample of their chilled orange wine – made orange by skin contact with these Spanish/Portuguese grapes I was unfamiliar with: Treixadura, Godello and Loureiro. These same varietals were also in the White Field Blend I favored, with the addition of Albariño.

2017 White Field Blend, Sierra Pelona Valley

2018 Bike Path Red (also served a little chilled, blend of Tempranillo and Grenache) Sierra Pelona Valley

2017 Grenache, Sierra Pelona Valley (This is from the Alonso Family Vineyards. They also make their own label, and by “they” I mean Juan Alonso. He has made his own wine for many years, and is the longtime owner of Le Chene.)

 

Byron Blatty Wines – Mark Blatty was there charming the guests, as usual, suffice it to say he had the busiest table. My favorite wine in his lineup was the 2016 Evenfall Red (I jokingly call it my namesake!) blend of Tempranillo and Petite Sirah. His Syrah and Malbec garnered a lot of attention, and an extra special pour of his soon-to-be released proprietary red – only 23 cases – of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot, was powerful! Stay tuned for that release. I predict this to be my next favorite from Byron Blatty.

2016 Agenda Syrah, Los Angeles County

2016 Evenfall Red, Los Angeles County

2017 Pragmatic Malbec, Los Angeles County

 

Cavaletti Vineyards – With a tasting room in nearby Moorpark, this is a winery to visit. Besides the wines listed below owner/winemaker Patrick Kelley also shared a 2018 Nebbiolo. I enjoyed them all, with special nods to the Cab and Nebbiolo, really fine fruit that will develop with a little more aging. I bought two of his Rose, a blend of Tempranillo and Grenache, as it was very good and the price was only about $25 per bottle.

2018 109 Mile Rosé, Los Angeles County

2018 Swayze (not Patrick) Grenache, Antelope Valley

2018 Whispering Bells Cabernet Sauvignon, Malibu Coast

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Angeleno Wine Company is located at 1646 North Spring Street, Los Angeles, CA 90012.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Vintage Eve March 2017: The Rosé of Tannat, A First for Pulchella Winery

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Well of course I coaxed local winemaker Steve Lemley from Pulchella Winery into letting me taste their – co-winemaker Nate Hasper definitely had his hand on this one – first ever 100% ROSE OF TANNAT that had YET TO BE RELEASED just so I could get your taste buds watering. It may be in bottle, it may even be in the tasting room before their ever-popular Viognier runs out, so pay attention:

Pulchella Rosé of Tannat

Bella Collina Vineyard, Adelaide District, Paso Robles

Bottled by Pulchella Winery, Santa Clarita

15.5% alcohol

 

The back label reads:

Some may question her nature, but are ultimately seduced by attraction. Away from the pack she moves, forging a new path.

Now, that’s a hell of a teaser. Time to taste!

 

Tasting

Compared to the color of the bright spring tulips I placed the wine bottle next to, I’d have to begin by saying the wine was the color of ripe strawberries with a touch of red peach fuzz. And while some Rosé wine can go anywhere from pale peach to pink, when I see one this deeper color, a rarity, I know I’m in for a treat.

Of the aroma, which I conferred with my husband on, we got raspberry, strawberry, peach and something that reminded me of rain-washed pavement.

The taste would be a favorite among Francophiles with mild acidity and delicate fruit that included that strawberry, of course, as well as the same raspberry we found on the nose, stewed red fruits, white pepper and mineral elements.

As we thoughtfully sipped the wine, on our front porch one of those hot evenings we enjoyed this past March, we thought how the colors of one of those red glowing sunsets would compare with our wine. We also thought, as we grew hungry for dinner, how nice the wine would pair with hard cheeses or a Margherita Pizza topped with fresh tomato sauce and buffalo mozzarella cheese.

 

Current Releases

As this wine may not be available in a widespread release right away this is what is currently available:

 

2013 Racket

Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat

Adelaida District, Paso Robles

 

2013 Red, White and Blue

Field Blend/ Co-Fermented.

El Pomar District, Paso Robles

 

2014 Awakening

Tannat, Petite Sirah

Paso Robles.

 

2014 Block 6 Reserve

100% Syrah

La Vista Vineyard, Adelaida District, Paso Robles

(Club members only)

 

2015 City Slicker

Zinfandel, Petite Sirah

Paso Robles

 

2015 Decorus

100% Syrah

Pipestone Vineyard, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles

 

2015 Mercenary

100% Zinfandel

Paso Robles

 

2016 Drifter

100% Viognier

Terra Mia Vineyard, Willow Creek District, Paso Robles

 

Of their 2016 vintages the winemakers said, “The #2016vintage is beautiful: heavily extracted, intense and well structured. We are stoked to show these wines off next year! #WorthTheWait”

 

The Tasting Room is located at 24261 Main Street, Newhall (old downtown historical district), 91321. They are open Thursday through Saturday from 5pm to 10pm and Sundays 12pm to 5pm. Tasting is free for members! Hours sometimes vary, they are closed on major holidays, so keep an eye on their social media for updates or call them at 661-799-WINE. You can bring in your own food or order from nearby restaurants, there is no kitchen at the tasting room. (Reserve as spot on their patio or in the bar if you have a large party of 8 or more, or want to book a private event.)

 

https://www.facebook.com/pulchellaWinery/

 

https://www.instagram.com/pulchellawinery/

 

http://www.pulchellawinery.com/

 

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

PERLIS PICKS: Angeleno Wine Company dinner at Crossings

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In 2016, reporting on the Los Angeles edition of the Garagiste Festival, I singled out Rhythm Wines as a “winery to watch”, especially enjoying the 2015 Tannat from the local Alonso Family Vineyard.

Then, I lost track of them.

ANGELENOThen, in early 2017 by my recollection, the manager of the short-lived and greatly missed Maré Restaurant in Silver Lake tasted us on a Rosé made by a local winemaker who was focusing on Los Angeles County grapes. But I didn’t make the connection, until…

Eve received an invitation to attend a winemaker dinner at Crossings restaurant in South Pasadena featuring the wines of Angeleno Wine Company. Eve was busy partying – um, I mean researching – in New Orleans, so her loss was our gain.

Karen and I were delighted to take her place but I was unfamiliar with the winery.
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A quick internet search followed and I was soon looking at the faces of Jasper Dickson and Amy Luftig Viste from that 2016 Garagiste Festival. With the focus now primarily on the Alonso Vineyard, they are working on opening their winery and tasting room in Downtown Los Angeles.

My plan is to devote a full article to Angeleno in the near future. In the meantime, back to the dinner…

Established in 2013, Crossings occupies the historic [built in 1908] Edwards and Faw building in South Pasadena. With dining rooms on two floors and the wine loft in between them as well as a patio, Crossing is visually stunning. The only question was: would the food match?

We were about to find out.

Hosted by Crossings’ Proprietor Patrick Kirchen, Chef Kevin Malone and Wine Ambassador Chris Sweeney along with Angeleno’s Winemaker Jasper Dickson, the challenge to create perfect pairings was not only met but exceeded. With Angeleno’s focus on LA County’s wine history, Chef Kevin developed a Latin-inspired menu that not only paid homage to the heritage of Los Angeles but also to Juan Alonso’s and his vineyard’s Spanish roots.

The first course, a ceviche with compressed melon and roe, also had habanero powder sprinkled on it.
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The heat from the habanero was cut by the balanced acidity of the Angeleno 2017 White Field Blend of mostly Spanish varietals from Alonso Family Vineyard.

Next came the monk fish with passion fruit and dwarf banana. This was paired with the 2017 “The Meadow” Rosé.

This was the only wine not from LA County grapes, instead it was a blend of Graciano and Garnacha from a vineyard farmed by Markus Bokisch in Lodi. This dish and wine pairing had everybody asking for more. As Winemaker Jasper said: “Rosé all day – in LA!”

Next up, quail with mole, yolk and herb salad. This dish was not only delicious but ingenious as well, with the quail and quail egg in the same dish [raising the chicken and egg question in its own way]. The richness of the mole went perfectly with the 2016 Grenache from the Alonso Family Vineyard.

The final course [before dessert] was pork belly [yum!] with tamarind, jicama and hibiscus. Pork belly, of course, is very rich. The jicama cut through that perfectly. This was naturally paired with the heaviest wine of the evening, an excellent Tempranillo and Garnacha blend called “Bike Path”, also a 2016 from the Alonso Vineyard.

Dessert was a churro with queso Oaxaca, guanabana and honey. Pairing the cheese with the sweet dessert provided great contrast and the dish was all brought together with the 2016 “Superbloom” blend of Albarino, Riesling and Chenin Blanc, for the perfect ending to a fabulous meal.

Crossings does special events frequently. But you don’t have to wait for an event to check out Chef Kevin’s food or the killer wine list that Chris has put together. Check out the Crossings website for details.

And stay tuned for more information on Angeleno Wine Company.

Crossings 1010 Mission St, South Pasadena, CA 91030

Angeleno Wine Company Los Angeles, CA

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Taste The World

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Every two years, trade and media has the opportunity to “taste the world” with distributor and importer Henry Wine Group. In a large ballroom at the Westin Bonaventure filled with wine and a small section devoted to spirits [covered by Eve in a recent article] we got to sample literally hundreds [if one were so inclined] of offerings from a wide variety of domestic and international producers.

TASTE THE WORLDUpon entering the event, we were provided with a wine tasting glass and a 158 page book – I told you there were a lot of wines to taste! Here were some of my favorites…

Ancient Peaks – I always love the Renegade and the Oyster Ridge blends, and the 2015 and 2014 of these, respectively, were both excellent.

Andrew Murray Vineyards – Another old favorite, one of the wineries that first got me into Rhones. The 2016 Enchante did it for me today.

Dashe Cellars – They’ve expanded their fun carbonic maceration line and continue to make great Zinfandels, including my usual favorite Todd Brothers Ranch (2015 this time).

Elizabeth Spencer Winery – I wasn’t really familiar with this Mendocino based winery but getting introduced to their delicious 2016 Grenache solved that problem.

Joullian Vineyards – One might not expect great Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monterey Peninsula, but this winery in the Carmel Valley belies that notion with their 2013 ‘Sias Cuvee’ Zin and 2014 Estate Cab.

Mettler Family Vineyards – I liked all three of the wines this Lodi winery was pouring – the Estate Cabernet, the “Epicenter” Old Vine Zinfandel and especially the Estate Petite Sirah, all from the 2015 vintage.

Mundovino – This importer had a whopping 10 tables at the event. Admittedly, I tend to focus on domestic producers but I wanted to try some Argentinean Malbec. I tasted some very impressive wines from Catena at all price points, especially the 2014 Catena Zapata Alta Malbec and the 2015 Catena Zapata Argentino Malbec.
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Pestoni Family Estate Winery – Another new to me winery, I enjoyed everything they poured – 2016 Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc, 2015 “1892” Field Blend and the 2013 and 2014 Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignons.

Saucelito Canyon Vineyards – Great Zinfandel from the Arroyo Grande Valley? You better believe it. Their 2015 Estate Zinfandel comes from a vineyard that was originally planted in 1880.

Shafer Vineyards – Shafer’s Cabernet Sauvignons are legendary and I wasn’t going to pass up a chance to taste them. Loved both the 2015 One Point Five Stag’s Leap and of course the 2013 Hillside Select Stag’s Leap as well.

Sinor-Lavallee – Bringing this list full circle, this is Ancient Peaks’ Director of Winemaking Mike Sinor’s own project. The Pinot Noirs were great but I was admittedly here for the Syrahs – the 2013 White Label – Bassi Vineyard, 2015 SLO/Estate and 2014 Black Label – Bassi Vineyard were all outstanding.

There was obviously a lot more I could have tasted [158 pages, after all] but I probably spent too much time catching up with various members of the trade who I’ve known over the years. My biggest takeaway from all this is that Henry Wine Group represents some excellent wineries. If you see their name on the label as distributor or importer, you can be assured you are getting quality, regardless of the price point.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 10/2014 Sonoma Part Two: Discovering Seghesio and Mauritson

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In this Part Two story from my Healdsburg trip, today I’ll be sharing a few tastes from Seghesio Family Vineyards and Mauritson Family Winery.

Seghesio

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Photo: Seghesio Facebook page

When Edoardo Seghesio came out to California from Italy it was to work for Italian Swiss Colony wines.  He, along with all of the winery workers, was given room and board. Seghesio worked three years before getting paid; and lots of workers at the time took the money they had earned to buy land and grow grapes – which Swiss Colony encouraged.

Seghesio stuck it out for 8 years, as he was a single guy like most of the others.  He became the head winemaker at Swiss Colony before cashing out. He then began to plan to return to Italy to bring a bride to California with him.

The boss didn’t want Seghesio to go back to Italy, as he was afraid he wouldn’t come back.  He warned Seghesio that he would most likely run through his money, lose out on the best land, and his girl at home was probably not waiting around for him anyway. Promising Seghesio that he had marriageable nieces coming for a visit in just two months, Edoardo said yes, and ended up married to the boss’s niece. Seghesio and 16 year-old Angela waited until she was 18 to be married, then in 1895 Edoardo and Angela purchased land from “the Colony” and planted it to Zinfandel – the same Zinfandel used today to make the Home Ranch wine. By 1902, Seghesio built a house and finished his own winery on the Home Ranch.

By 1902, Seghesio built a house and finished his own winery on the Home Ranch. They got cuttings of Sangiovese in 1910. With prohibition they continued working by making wine for churches. They also planted plums during the 14-years of prohibition. The Seghesios bided their time, and were in the bulk wine business for over 80 years.

In 1949, the Seghesio Family bought the current property. They now make wine with mostly Italian grapes*; 90% are Zinfandel. During the tour we noted ginormous redwood barrels that are rumored to be the largest, and possibly the oldest, in Sonoma.

*If you consider Zinfandel to be an Italian grape

Tasting Seghesio

(Aromas and flavors separated by 😉

 

2013 Arneis (Italian white grape varietal) Russian River Valley

Like a fruity Viognier, peaches, pink sweet grapefruit; tangy, acidic, red delicious apples, nice palate cleanser.

 

2012 Barbera

Strong smoky dark fruit; dark fruit, cigar, bittersweet chocolate.

 

2011 Sangiovese

Milk chocolate covered cherries, figs, wet bark; sharp, biting red fruit, made me want pizza.

 

2011 Block 8 San Lorenzo Zinfandel Alexander Valley

Black pepper, Italian plums, mint; same flavors follow through to the palate, nice drying tannins.

 

2013 Sonoma County Zinfandel – their workhorse, 2/3 of all the wine they make. Cigarette, nice smoky fruit; easy drinker, with or without food.

 

2012 Rockpile Zinfandel

Bursting black cherry, milky, mint, earth; chewy, tannic, ripe and ready.

 

2012 Home Ranch Alexander Valley (the oldest owned by Seghesio)

Balanced fruit and spice of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel; I liked this blend, nice peppery feel against juicy dark fruits.  My favorite.

 

2012 Old Vine Zinfandel – the “Big Brother” of Sonoma

Cinnamon, cut figs, wet earth; perfect expression of Sonoma Zinfandel.

 

Marian’s Reserve Field Blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane.

Lighter nose, dusty red to dark fruit, dark chocolate with a hint of red pepper flakes; nice and chewy, redder fruit, peppery.  Another favorite.

 

2010 Il Cinghiale Petite Sirah

Black color, darkest of blackberries, sweet plump raisins, mushroom; port-filled chocolates, dry, spice and smoke.

 

Mauritson

Clay Mauritson, a 6th generation winemaker, sells the majority of his winery’s fruit to other wineries, and does about 13,000 cases of his own. The wines are distributed to restaurants mostly, and direct from winery sales.  The popular Rockpile label is all from that designated area, and one of the wine grape growing areas getting a buzz.

In the bright tasting room many guests had cozied up to bar stools – Clay’s father had brought one in for himself one day and realized how comfy it was so he had to bring in more. Carrie Mauritson, Clay’s wife, shared four different soil samples with us depicting the different areas they had chosen for grape growing. The example drove home the different terroir (earth and conditions) making up their wines.

During the tour we met Clay in his laboratory tasting samples.  His energy was palatable for his task at hand, surprising, as they were also knee deep in harvest at the time.

Tasting Mauritson

2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley

Allspice, grapefruit, mown grass, dried apples, lemon zest; kiwi, mango, crisp acidity, titillating finish.

 

2012 Chardonnay, Alexander Valley

Buttery, salted caramel, lightly toasted oak; nice oaky Chardonnay, malolactic acid, mouth-coating viscosity.

 

2012 Zinfandel, Dry creek Valley (They make 7 Rockpile zinfandels, this is their signature Zinfandel.)

Smooth chocolaty nose with hints of strawberry, to dark fruit; balanced fruit to pepper to tannin.

 

2012 Westphall Ridge Rockpile single vineyard (highest elevation)

Smoky, fruit-forward dark fruits; tannic, dark chocolate finish.

 

2012 Jack’s Cabin Rockpile single vineyard (lowest elevation)

Sweet dark fruit, slight port qualities, smoke, hay; great fruit and juicy finish.

 

2011 Rockpile Syrah, Madrone Spring Vineyard

Earthy, leather, violet; biting fruit, eucalyptus, peppery finish.

 

2010 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon

Sweet plums, white pepper, bark; dry, tannic yet full-blown dusty fruit.

 

Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10204030874999605.1073741881.1455706632&type=1&l=ef858e481a

Perlis Picks: ONX

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The last time Karen and I visited ONX it was at the winery/vineyard in Templeton, just a short distance from Turley Wine Cellars. I took away a few cool things from that visit.

ONXThe vineyard tour is cool. You think you might be in a residential area, and suddenly there’s a vineyard – Templeton is funny that way.  Riding around on a four-wheel mule with various stops along the way, with wine included at each stop, is pretty cool too.

Associate Winemaker Jeffrey Strekas is also cool. One half of the “gun show” winemaking team along with Winemaker Brian Brown, Jeffrey’s winemaking skills along with his wry sense of humor add up to a great wine tasting experience.

Finally, ONX’s wines are very cool. Known for their “untraditional” blends, they taste familiar and unfamiliar to me at the same time — always high quality and deliciously fruit forward.

Now that the winery has moved to Tin City and has opened a real tasting room, one might be tempted not to check out the vineyard tour. I urge you not to pass that up, as it is a lot of fun and very informative.

That being said, our last visit to ONX was to visit Jeffrey Strekas at the new winery and tasting room, which is as stylish as the wines.

In talking with Jeffrey, we learned that the new winery had enabled them to increase their capacity to about 3,500 cases annually, which is really helpful to them since not only are their own wines very popular but they also now make wine for other wineries. [I’m not sure I’m allowed to name any.]

A case in point is their 2016 Indie, a crazy good rose of Tempranillo that is also a crazy steal at just $19 per bottle. It is no wonder they sell all they make of this wine and production of this alone was 852 cases.

Another really delicious wine is their 2015 L’autre Femme, an unusual [of course] blend of Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. The Sauvignon Blanc is readily apparent on the nose with the richness of the Viognier smoothing out the acidity.

I also really liked the 2016 Field Day blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Grenache Blanc.

This is where things got a little hazy.

Jeffrey ominously muttered “When you come to ONX, there has to be a reckoning.”

My notes are incomplete, but I did buy…

2013 Crux [Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Alicante Bouschet]

2014 Black Orchid [100% Petite Sirah – one of the few single varietals made by ONX]

2014 Caliber [Cabernet Sauvigon, Malbec]

2014 Level 22 [Petite Sirah, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache]

2014 Mad Crush [Grenache, Tempranillo, Malbec, Mourvedre, Zinfandel]

Oh, now I get it. Jeffrey said “When you come to ONX, there has to be a Reckoning.”

For me, Reckoning has always been ONX’s flagship wine. Jeffrey poured us a taste of the not-yet-released 2014 – a blend of Syrah, Malbec, Grenache and Petite Sirah. I highly recommend this wine as a one-bottle showcase of what Paso Robles can do. I did have a fairly technical tasting note on this one, which is unusual for me. I did the usual smell, swirl, smell again and then taste. Unbidden from my lips came forth perhaps the most profound comment I have ever made about a wine…

“Holy crap!”

Enough said.

ONX

tin city tasting room 
open daily 10:00am – 4:00pm
vineyard tours available by appointment
friday + saturday 10:00am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, + 3:00pm
tour requests for thursday + sunday + monday accommodated when possible.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Limerick Lane

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Limerick Lane, while it has been around for a long time, really burst onto the scene when Jake Bilbro acquired the property in 2011 from the Collins Family. The story of the timing of the escrow closing coinciding with bringing in harvest and then the destemmer breaking down is legendary enough that the annual Limerick Lane Hail Mary Syrah is named after it.

Jake Bilbro of Limerick Lane Cellars.

Jake Bilbro of Limerick Lane Cellars.

Bursting on the scene is what happened though, with immediate recognition from major wine publications that continue to happen, maybe even at an accelerated rate. Not unexpectedly though, as making great wine seems to run in Jake’s family. Starting with Marietta Cellars, which Jake’s dad Chris named after his great aunt, Jake and his brother Scot have long worked with their father to make delicious affordable wines that everyone can enjoy, growing the winery to 100,000 cases.

[Jake’s other brother Sam, who also worked with father Chris, owns Idlewild Wines, devoted to Italian varietals – I am looking forward to visiting during my next trip to the area. Yet another brother, Lucas, did not get bitten by the wine bug and pursues his own passion as a ballet dancer.]

When Karen and I last visited with Jake, there were not many wines to taste. Success will do that, especially when you are a small winery of only about 4,000 cases. I asked Jake if he planned to expand production given the demand for the Limerick Lane wines, especially with his involvement in last year’s Historic Vineyard Society event and his obvious connection to the great vineyards the organization works to protect. Jake respond that he greatly respects the work that people like Mike Officer of Carlisle and Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock are doing with regard to preserving and sourcing from California great old vineyards. However, notwithstanding the fact that these guys all sell a certain amount of grapes to each other, showcasing the special nature of the Limerick Lane vineyard and the wines it produces is his driving passion and that will be the focus of his time, at least for the foreseeable future.

The vineyards actually consists of fourteen blocks, the oldest dating back to 1910. The Zinfandel blocks are true field blends that also include Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Negrette, Mourvedre, Carignane, Syrah and Petite Sirah.

The Russian River Valley sprawls over a large area, and Limerick Lane is at the Northeast corner of it, with hills providing southern and western exposure. The soil is clay and rock, with the clay holding water and the rock providing space for the vines to dig deep. Cool nights and foggy mornings keep the acidity high and the wines vibrant while the warm afternoons allow the development of intense flavors.

Initially planted by the Del Fava family, the property was later purchased by the Collins Brothers in the 1970s. When Mike Collins was ready to sell, he wanted the property to be in good hands, which is why he approached Jake Bilbro. Escrow closed just the day before harvest in 2011. And, to complicate matters, as harvest was wrapping up a few weeks later, the winery’s destemmer broke, with 7 tons of Syrah still to crush. With rain on the way, Jake threw a “Hail Mary” and dumped the grapes, stems attached, into two open top fermenters and hoped for the best.

Personally, I love the complexity that stem inclusion can bring, especially to Syrah. And the Hail Mary bottlings from Limerick Lane live up to this trait. From that year on, Jake has made a Syrah labeled Hail Mary to pay homage to that first vintage. We got to taste the 2014 during our visit and it was great as always.

We also got to taste a few other wines during our visit…

2014 Russian River Zinfandel – from the original vines planted over a hundred years ago. Not your ordinary Zin, the field blend aspect makes this is a complex delicious wine.

2014 Syrah Grenache – it was the 2011 version of this that I raved about along with the RR Zin when I attended Sonoma In The City back a couple of years ago. This continued that tradition.

1910 Block Zin [2014] – You’ll rarely see specific tasting notes from me, but in this case it was just too obvious; it was just like fresh blueberries! Wonderful wine!

2014 Rocky Knoll Zinfandel – another field blend, with Mourvedre and Petite Sirah that give this wine wonderful structure.

These wines get very high scores from the wine publications. Production is small and the wines are very hard to find outside of the tasting room or the mailing list.

I asked Jake what he would like people to know about Limerick Lane. This would have been a perfect opportunity to talk about their great wines and brag about all their great scores and accolades. Instead, he said “Tell them that we’re really nice people. We’re small so we can’t have a lot of people stop by all at once so visitors have to make appointments. But we really do want to see them.”

Go see them. There should be new releases to taste, but don’t wait too long.

Limerick Lane

1023 Limerick Lane
Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit to Limerick Lane and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.