Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Caliza Winery

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When we decided it was time to visit wine country again, selecting the region was pretty easy. Paso Robles has long been a favorite of ours, going back to the 1980s[!]. Deciding who to visit was a little tougher – there are a lot of people who we consider friends in Paso and many of the wineries are on our “favorites” list. In addition, there are many new wineries that deserve attention.

One thing that was certain was that we needed to visit Carl Bowker at Caliza Winery. The one and only time that we did visit Caliza must have been soon after they opened the tasting room in 2008 – Pam and Carl Bowker had started making wine commercially with the 2006 vintage, but didn’t make their first wines available until late 2008. [We had actually tried to plan a visit in 2018 but couldn’t coordinate schedules.] Since that one time, we had relied on tasting Carl’s efforts at various events, such as Rhone Rangers and the Garagiste Festivals and they were always outstanding. But with no events happening in the last year and a half, visiting became a must.

Upon our arrival at the winery at the end of Anderson Road in the Willow Creek District AVA, Carl gave us a 4-wheel tour of the hillside vineyard adjacent to the tasting room. Carl explained that while the Caliza property is 60 acres, only 28 of those acres are planted. The expected Rhone varieties are there [Syrah, Grenache, Roussanne, Viognier, Mourvedre / Mataro], along with some Primitivo, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo and Tannat. Limestone and slate dominate the soil in this area [Caliza means “limestone” in Spanish]. The qualities of the soil and the climate of the Templeton Gap are what make this AVA so unique and enables Caliza and neighbors such as L’Aventure and Booker to make such great wines, as do other wineries that source fruit from the area.

And great wines they are. Sitting outside with Carl and tasting through the lineup reminded us of how much we enjoy his wines:

2020 “Pink” Rosé – One of the more complex rosés we’ve had, with a rich, strong finish and notes of white peach; a very bright blend of Grenache and Mourvedre.

2019 Viognier – This delicious 100% Viognier was concrete egg fermented. We noted ripe melon fruit with a dry, medium finish, and a full mouthfeel.

2019 Kissin Cousins – the 2020 vintage is already sold out but fortunately Carl has some of the 2019 left of this blend (48% Viognier, 30% Grenache Blanc, 22% Roussanne) that is always one of our favorites. Fermented in a combination of neutral and new oak and stainless steel (depending on the varietal) this wine had a solid mid- palate, clean stone fruit, and white flowers on the nose.

2019 Sidekick – another tasty white blend, this one 80% Roussanne and 20% Viognier. Barrel aged with a rich golden color, and notes of fresh straw and chalk, this is a serious food wine.

2018 Azimuth –the first of four outstanding reds that we tasted, this one is a blend of 50% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Huge fruit, notes of cherry, complex but balanced.

2017 Cohort – 58% Petite Sirah, 28% Syrah, 14% Mourvedre. This one was held back a year so the Petite could integrate, which it certainly did in this superb inky blend.

2018 Syrah – no nickname needed for this delicious 100% Syrah. It was fresh, bright, big and rich.

2018 Companion – the only wine that contains some non-estate fruit, this blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Syrah created a terrific symbiotic pairing.

The accompanying cheese board from Paso favorite Vivant Fine Cheese with pairings selected specifically for the wines tasted just added to the experience, as did the great vineyard view from the patio.

As we were leaving, Carl mentioned that he had another important writer stopping in after us…from The Wine Advocate. Now that is impressive, but equally so is how Carl considered us to be important too. It goes to show you that he and the rest of the Caliza staff treats everyone with the same importance no matter who you are.

We Perlises don’t give number ratings, but we thought we’d share these with you from hugely respected critic, Jeb Dunnuck [as per the Caliza website]:

2018 Azimuth            95 points

2018 Companion      95 points

2018 Syrah               95 points

2017 Cohort              94 points

In your visits to Paso Robles wine country, you might be tempted to not go all the way to the end of Anderson Road. We really think you should because, if you don’t, you’ll be missing out on some great wines and wonderful down-to-earth people.

Caliza Winery

www.calizawinery.com

2570 Anderson Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Tasting “The Fruit of a Magic Formula” With Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, Owner of Col d’Orcia

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A great invitation came my way to meet the owner of an Italian winery and taste three of his wines with about 40 other professionals. This time it was:

“…Join us via Zoom as Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d’Orcia, shares a first taste of his new 2016 Brunello di Montalcino 5-star release, together with two other top wines from his organically farmed estate…Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013 – another stellar, 5-star vintage – and Olmaia Sant’Antimo Cabernet DOC 2015 (great vintage as well!) All three wines are produced entirely with organically grown grapes farmed on the Col d’Orcia estate and bottled on location.” 

Takeaways from Time with The Count

Let me start by saying that right off there was something Capra-esque and Cary Grant-ish about Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, as he warmly greeted our group from Col d’Orcia (pronounced Col-Door-Cha) with amazing photos of his property while wearing a vineyard colored green scarf and jacket that was in perfect “balance” for the scenery.

  • Fifty percent of the land in Montalcino is natural woodland.
  • They are located in a natural park, and a designated UNESCO territory.
  • The Count feels “a duty” to “protect the environment” that he has inherited.
  • There is an oak tree in the vineyard that is four and a half centuries old, and is a “symbol of care for nature.”
  • They have invested a lot into Research and Development. Though going 100% organic wasn’t so difficult as “little had to be done to do so.”
  • The Brunello is 100% Sangiovese grapes. The wine is made to be paired with food, which is the “concept of drinkability and food pairing.” The wine also has an “incredible intensity in aroma and taste.”
  • The soil is a mix of clay, sand and a high level of limestone that gives “quality” to the “tannins.”
  • Families, and their pets, have been on the estate for decades. As well as a bee population, grains to make pasta and other animals that live there include sheep, goats, poultry and pheasants.
  • “A happy winemaker produces a good wine…(and they also have) “the fruit of a magic formula.”
  • They grow Pinot Grigio, Vermentino, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot and other wine grapes on the property.

Background

As one of the original estates of Montalcino and now the largest certified organic estate in Tuscany, Col d’Orcia is a leader in Brunello di Montalcino, helping to define and promote one of Italy’s most prestigious wine regions. Tradition, integrity and sustainability are the pillars of the estate, whose classic style wines are celebrated all over the world. Proudly defined as an ‘organic island,’ Col d’Orcia is committed to maintaining the natural environment in which it operates and has, for many years, employed organic farming practices.

About the Family

Col d’Orcia has a rich winemaking history dating back to the 1700s. Today, the estate is owned and managed by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. A world traveler with boundless energy, the Count is a tireless ambassador for his estate as well as the Montalcino region. Under his leadership, plantings have expanded exponentially at Col d’Orcia and the estate has been transformed into an organic farm.

My Notes on the Wines (in italics), following notes from the technical sheets

Brunello di Montalcino 2016

14.5% alcohol. On aging, “4 years, 3 of which in 25-50 and 75 hl oak casks from Slavonia and Allier followed by at least 12 months of refinement in the bottles placed in storage at controlled temperature.” $59.99

This wine is a blend from all of the vineyards in the estate. Lots of red berries on the nose, as well as earth, Italian plums, and spice all in a nice balance on the nose. The taste delivered those same fresh and fruity red berries, tannins and a crispness noted by the Count.

 

Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2013

15% alcohol, “The wine is aged a minimum of six years prior to release; four years in Slavonian and French oak casks followed by at least two years refinement in bottle.” $162.99

This Riserva is a limited release with less than 12 thousand bottles and could age for quite some time, according to the Count, 10 more years or so. The Count called it an “elegant” wine and none of us disagreed. The nose was huge with notes of red fruit again, but also whiffs from a well-tended vegetable garden, peppery and lots of minerals. Going in for a taste I found it both lively and spicy with medium tannins and acidity. I was craving the pasta I planned for dinner about now.

 

Olmaia Sant’Antimo Cabernet DOC 2015

14.5% alcohol. Aging notes include, “The wine is aged 18 months in new French oak barriques and a small portion in American barrels, followed by a further 8 months refinement in bottle.” $68.99

The name Olmaia means Elm Tree in Italian according to the Count. This Cabernet, of course, was nothing like the red fruit of a Sangiovese. It was all dark fruit, sweet tobacco, milk chocolate with a creamy balance between the fruit and spice on the nose; on the palate came the same notes, but also dark and dusty fruit, and what the count referred to as “herbs, spices and minerality.”

https://www.coldorcia.com/ 

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits

SUPER TUSCANS DEMYSTIFIED and WHYNOT WINE SAVER SHOWCASE

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Last month I got another look at the whynot wine saver (2019 article) and benefitted from the expert knowledge from the North American Sommelier Association president Diego Meraviglia, on what the heck a Super Tuscan is and how it came to be. The invitation is below, then my notes of what I learned and photos are here. 

For decades and decades, a mystical and highly revered wine category has commanded sales, ratings, prices and stirred up awe and buzz across the wine-world and most of all in the United States Tuscan in origin, but international in spirit, “SUPER TUSCANS“ have represented some of the best bottlings to leave Italian soil, world-bound. 

But what exactly are they? Not even an official category…SUPER TUSCANS blasted onto the wine world through contradiction, controversy and a pioneering soul in the 1960’s and were some of the very first Italian wines to make a name for themselves and Italy across the planet. 

Very often misunderstood, misrepresented and erroneously explained and perceived, our mission is to shed light and clarity on a mystical and legendary Italian wine category that has little of official to begin with. 

What Exactly is a Super Tuscan?

There are no rules about what a Super Tuscan has to be. According to Meraviglia the term was made up by the American press, namely a young Robert Parker that was sent a bottle to review. It gave a term to a popular wine without an appellation to define them.

Located in Central Italy, where they had learned that almost any grape varietal could thrive (just not Nebbiolo or Nordic grapes) due to the length of the growing season. Like California, they could focus on Bordeaux and Rhone varietals, and others like Zinfandel. The area benefits from super rich soil with limestone, and a mild climate that produces balanced wines.

There is some history Meraviglia shared as well. The area began with rich landlords during the feudal system where they built a castle, houses, a wall around it all and shared half of what they grew with the people that lived there.

The landlords soon decided there was a wine surplus and decided to sell some of it.

Sassicaia first appeared in 1968 and with that, Super Tuscans were born. It’s a Cabernet Sauvignon – a phenomenon in Italy at the time when these wines could only be labeled as a Red Table Wine. This wine got a lot of attention in the U.K. and the U.S., received high point scores and was very popular, with that the Super Tuscan term stuck. In 1971 Tignanello proved to be the second Super Tuscan.

So when you buy a Super Tuscan you are buying a brand label, not an appellation. All are different grapes varieties – and some may or may not include indigenous grapes. The wines are more like Bordeaux or California wines, basically made in a more international style.

We also learned a little about the different areas and soils which can be seen in the photos I took here. Find Super Tuscans being made in Chianti, Chianti Classico, Montalcino, Bolgheri and Maremma.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.