Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Thacher Winery dinner at Tam O’Shanter

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We recently wrote about a wine dinner at Tam O’Shanter restaurant featuring Carol Shelton Wines that we were unfortunately unable to attend. At the time, we had resolved to do our best to make it to the next wine dinner at The Tam, and that opportunity came sooner than expected when Tam O’Shanter paired up with Thacher Winery of Paso Robles.

Michelle and Sherman Thacher discovered the Kentucky Ranch in what is now the Adelaida AVA of Paso Robles in 2003 when they attended a wedding there. They ended up buying the property soon thereafter and Thacher Winery officially opened in 2008, in time for their fourth harvest. The focus is primarily on Rhone varietals and Zinfandel from a combination of estate and purchased fruit. We’ve tasted and enjoyed the Thacher wines at events but have not yet visited the winery.

It is always an eye-opening and palate-gratifying reminder what a talented executive chef such as The Tam’s JC Salazar can do when using his expertise to create dishes to pair with selected wines. An added bonus was having Tony Quealy, Thacher Winery’s General Manager, available to discuss the wines and the winery.

Here is the menu with our comments in italics:

Lemon Hamachi Crudo – fennel, cucumber, apple-pear, watermelon radish, aguachile, smoked salt paired with 2021 Own Rooted Chenin Blanc – Shell Creek Vineyard, Highlands District, Paso Robles AVA.

First of all, kudos for using Chenin Blanc, a much overlooked grape these days. Even more kudos for using grapes from a vineyard planted in 1972. With a lemon and apricot nose, it was crisp and clean with grapefruit notes. Moderate acidity and body and very well balanced with a medium to long finish. The wine was a perfect accompaniment to the refreshing and complex crudo and was perfectly timed to the hot-day segueing into a pleasantly cool evening.    

Lamb, Lavender & Plums – New Zealand Lamb Rack, Romanesco succotash, plum chutney, lavender honey paired with 2019 Constant Variable – Central Coast.

Is there a better pairing with lamb than Rhone varietals? We think not. In this case, the wine was a blend of 37% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 7% Cinsaut, 7% Counoise and 2% Viognier. Tony referred to this as Thacher’s flagship wine. The deep burgundy/maroon wine presented with dark, ripe stone fruit and a hint of white pepper on the nose. There were spicy notes from the Counoise along with a hint of baking spices. Extremely well balanced in body and acidity with added freshness from the Cinsaut. The mouthfeel was full and the finish was long. All the varietals were barreled separately except for the co-fermented Syrah and Viognier. The richness of the lamb with the chutney and honey proved to be both sweet and savory and this wine helped to bring out these aspects.

Certified Angus NY Strip – potato fondant, glazed Globe carrots, asparagus ribbons, shiitake demi paired with 2018 Original Copy – Adelaida District, Paso Robles AVA.

As lamb pairs with Rhone varietals, beef pairs with Bordeaux varietals. In this case, a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 14% Cabernet Franc combine to make a wine that is deep, dark, rich burgundy in color with aromas of ripe plum. Nicely structured and medium-bodied, with earthy and smoky nuances and a medium to long finish. The bold flavors of the perfectly cooked steak dipped in the demi went hand in hand with the Bordeaux blend.

Olive Oil Cake – macerated cherries, almond brittle, Fosselman’s vanilla ice cream paired with 2020 Working Holiday, Cass Vineyard Red, Paso Robles Geneseo District, Paso Robles AVA.

The dessert was not overly sweet and was delightful with this fruit forward wine from the renowned Cass vineyard on the east side of Paso Robles. A combination of 54% Syrah, 37% Grenache and 9% Mourvedre, this Rhone blend and lively, ripe raspberry on the nose and followed through with the same on the palate. A perfect way to end a perfect dinner, leaving you satisfied and looking forward to the next time.

In addition to greatly enjoying our dinner, we learned a few things about Thacher Winery from GM Tony Quealy. Production is about 5,000 cases, of which about 65% is Estate. Estate growth is being expanded, including plantings of Mencia, a red grape grown in Spain and Portugal, as well as a mixed white field blend. The logo for Thacher Winery is a grasshopper, based on the Thacher family crest going back to Sherman’s English heritage. And shortly after we attended the dinner, we learned that Brenna Hill had been promoted from Cellar Lead to Assistant Winemaker at Thacher.

We want to thank Tam O’Shanter management and staff for an excellent dinner, both in food and service. We have never felt better taken care of. We are looking forward to the next wine dinner to see what imaginative dishes Executive Chef JC will come up with, although we will definitely be revisiting Tam O’Shanter before then. And the Thacher Winery and Vineyard will be on our agenda the next time we are in Paso Robles, one of our absolute favorite stomping grounds.

Thacher Winery & Vineyard

www.thacherwinery.com

8355 Vineyard Dr, Paso Robles, CA 93446

The Tam O’Shanter Restaurant

www.lawrysonline.com/tam-o-shanter

2980 Los Feliz Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90039Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick Zaca Mesa Winery

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Zaca Mesa Winery just celebrated its 50th anniversary. That’s quite an achievement in this relatively young wine region. The land was purchased in 1973 by John Cushman and five of his friends. It was only the third winery in Santa Barbary County and served as the training ground for many winemakers who then went on to become famous. Its first winemaker was Ken Brown, and some other notables are Adam Tolmach, Jim Clendenen, Bob Lindquist and Daniel Gehrs, to name just a few. It is no wonder that the winery is sometimes referred to as Zaca University or just Zaca U. Current Head Winemaker and GM Kristin Bryden and Associate Winemaker Andrew Keil are maintaining the Zaca Mesa tradition.

Rhone varietals are the primary focus at Zaca Mesa. In fact, the first Syrah grown in Santa Barbara County was planted in 1978 in the Black Bear Block of the Zaca Mesa Vineyard. Of course, the region is also well known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which is now produced under their TREAD label.

We had an opportunity to taste some of the wines one beautiful afternoon on the Zaca Mesa patio:

2018 Roussanne Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA from the Foxen Block. 100% Roussanne. White flowers on the nose. Ripe, creamy, peach notes with a luscious, rich finish. 

2019 TREAD Pinot Noir – Santa Barbara County – from Cottonwood Canyon, Spear, John Sebastiano, Bien Nacido and La Encantada vineyards. 100% Pinot Noir. Classic notes of cherry and raspberry. Solid on the middle palate and medium body with notes of mushroom and autumn leaves followed by a smooth finish.

2020 TREAD La Encantada Pinot Noir Black Label – Sta. Rita Hills AVA, La Encantada Vineyard. 100% Pinot Noir. Bright fruit, pomegranate and strawberry nose. Earthy notes of black tea and nutmeg. 

2021 TREAD Our Lady of Guadalupe Pinot Noir – Sta. Rita Hills AVA, Our Lady of Guadalupe Vineyard. Big plummy red fruit on nose. Wisps of cinnamon and clove notes with a medium mouthfeel and finish.

2017 Mourvedre Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, from the Chapel and Mesa Blocks. 95% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah. Deep, dark burgundy color. Brambly berry with pepper notes. Medium finish, full body. 

2018 Toyon – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Zaca Mesa, TTT, Vogelzang, Happy Canyon vineyards. An unusual blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre and Petit Verdot, the wine is named for a local shrub that grows around the Zaca Mesa vineyard. The Petit accounts for the deep color and the blend is softened by the Cabernet. Blueberry fruit notes with a full mouthfeel and medium finish. [Note that the actual Toyon shrub produces bright red berries – don’t eat these though; they’re poisonous!]   

2016 Estrella Syrah Estate Black Label – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Mesa Block. 100% Syrah/Estrella Clone.  Deep color, almost black. Star anise nose with black fruit and black currant notes.  Layered, structured, and very yummy.

2017 Mesa Reserve Syrah Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Chapel and Mesa Blocks. 100% Syrah. Big jammy fruit with a touch of lavender and eucalyptus on the nose. Milk chocolate, white pepper notes and a whisper of tobacco leaf notes. Long, complex and balanced finish.

The Cushman family continues to own Zaca Mesa Vineyard after all these years. Sadly, shortly after our visit we learned that founder John Cushman had passed away. Belated condolences to his family, friends and everyone at Zaca Mesa Winery and beyond. The Santa Barbara County wine region would have been a lot different without his vision and we are all grateful for what he accomplished. Here is a nice video that Zaca Mesa posted: John Cushman on Founding Zaca Mesa – YouTube.

Zaca Mesa Winery

www.zacamesa.com

6905 Foxen Canyon Road, Los Olivos, CA 93441

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whisky is Unveiled in the U.S. Market

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NEW YORK (PRWEB) – Isle of Skye, a Skye Blended Scotch Whisky brand within the Ian Macleod Distillers portfolio, has announced the U.S. launch of their full range, from 8 years old to 30 years. This whisky has a completely new premium look and feel, with each bottle proudly displaying the famous ‘Cuillin Ridge’ hills that lie at the heart of the island itself.

This blended Scotch was created by Ian Macleod on Skye in 1933 and was inspired by the dramatic landscapes of the island. Skye is the most popular of Scotland’s islands and is famously used as a location for many films and TV series. An ancient island which has been carved by the elements and is a theater of natural drama. The influence of the island can still be seen today in the whisky, which is described as ‘soul-stirring’ with each sip transporting you to this land of myth and legend.

To blend the Isle of Skye, Ian Macleod Distillers skilfully uses malt whisky from Skye and complement it with stunning malt and grain whiskies from the mainland of Scotland, to produce a unique whisky with a very high malt content. This gives the Scotch a complex and incredibly smooth flavor, bursting with tropical fruits, spice and chocolate.

Isle of Skye has been created to be enjoyed neat, on the rocks or as the perfect base for a variety of cocktails due to its complex and layered flavors.

Iain Weir, Brand Director for Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whisky says, “We are delighted to share the updated Isle of Skye range with the U.S. The unique, rich flavors of the whisky are a testament to the careful blending and premium malts and grain that we use to create it. Our stunning new packaging really tells the story of the brand and showcases its heritage on the ancient Isle of Skye.”

The full range of Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whiskies to be released in the United States are as follows:

The 8 Year Old (SRP: $20.99) has gentle sweetness on the nose with floral notes, citrus aromas, and subtle smoke. Peat smoke on the palate along with shellfish, toffee, vanilla and heather. Dry to finish with continued smoke.

The 12 Year Old (SRP: $27.99) has creamy vanilla fragrances with orange zest, ground coriander, honeycomb, and distant heather fire. Smooth and balanced palate with flavors of dried apricot, gooseberry, and a gentle spice. Lingering peat finish with notes of lime, dark chocolate, and fresh mint.

The 18 Year Old (SRP: $64.99) has gooseberry and cinnamon aromas caught on a coastal breeze, lime, chilli, and black pepper. Gentle smoke on the palate gives way to citrus zest, fruitcake, and toffee notes. A peat smoke finish ebbs into rounded malt and dark chocolate.
*Award: Gold Medal in 2023 San Francisco World Spirits Competition

The 21 Year Old (SRP: $114.99) has shelled walnuts with dried banana and brown sugar on the nose, with wood smoke, clementine and treacle. A rich body with a mouthfeel to match, yielding to honeyed porridge, tropical fruit, and allspice. A wonderfully tenacious rich oak finish with dried fruits, and soft peat smoke.

The 25 Year Old (SRP: $206.99) has rich and oaky ginger on the nose mixed with vanilla, red apple, and citrus. Rounded and fruity on the palate, with notes of malt and more apple, giving way to a wisp of peat smoke. A balanced and dry finish with lingering hints of apricot.

The 30 Year Old (SRP: $321.99) has vanilla and light oak on the nose with hints of bakewell tart, coconut, and a floral top note. Silky and sweet butter pastry on the palate, mixed with fresh malt and raisins. A remarkable 30 Year Old blended Scotch.
*Award: Gold Medals in 2023 International Wine & Spirit Competition and 2023 San Francisco World Spirits Competition

Consumers can now purchase the full Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whisky range in select retail shops throughout the U.S. and the whiskies are available in 7ooml sized bottles.

About Ian Macleod Distillers: The Isle of Skye blended Scotch whisky is owned by Ian Macleod Distillers. Established in 1933, Ian Macleod Distillers is one of Scotland’s leading independent, family- owned distillers, blenders and bottlers. They are the world’s 10th largest Scotch Whisky company, producing and selling over 15 million bottles of spirits every year. Ian Macleod Distillers has built up an enviable portfolio of premium quality spirits and is proud brand proprietor of Glengoyne, Tamdhu, Rosebank and Smokehead Scotch whiskies and Edinburgh Gin to name but a few. For more information, visit http://www.ianmacleod.com

Perlises Pick Andrew Murray Vineyards

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Our wine journey would probably have been a lot different if we hadn’t wandered into a certain modest storefront winery tasting room in downtown Los Olivos back in the mid-1990s. Yes, we had already discovered California Rhone wines with a bottle of Le Cigare Volant from Bonny Doon Vineyards that we had purchased at a wine store in Glendale CA, but finding an easily accessible tasting room for a winery that was 100% devoted to Rhone varietals was an eye-opening and palate-gratifying experience.  The wines from Andrew Murray Vineyards were delicious and they sent us down the Cal-Rhone rabbit hole and we haven’t looked back.

Andrew initially made his wines at – and sourced much of his grape supply from – the property owned by his parents in the Santa Ynez Valley. That property was sold in 2005 and Andrew spent several years making his wine at different sites while expanding his sources of grapes. Finally, in 2014, he took over the old Curtis Winery and Vineyard property, establishing not only a well-deserved permanent home for this star in the Cal-Rhone firmament, but also creating a wonderful place for wine lovers to visit – which we did and this is what we tasted…

2021 Viognier – 100% Viognier, a blend of two different vineyards – White Hawk near Los Alamos and a vineyard owned by AMV in the Santa Maria Valley.  Aged in neutral oak.  Peach, floral notes. Very zesty and lively. Nice long mouth feel.

2020 Esperance Rose – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Curtis Vineyard. 97% Cinsault, 3% Grenache.   Stainless steel, very light skin contact. Floral, rose flower and a touch of tomato notes.  Soft and easy on the palate.

2020 Esperance Estate GSM – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Curtis Vineyard.  65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre.  Ripe berry, followed by stone fruit with soft spice notes. 

2020 Estate Grenache – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Curtis Vineyard. 100% Grenache.  15% whole cluster fermentation for added complexity.  This was a warm year, resulting in fruit forward, very aromatic wine.  Plush berry, balanced tannins with a medium body.

2020 Estate Mourvedre – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Curtis Vineyard.  100% Mourvedre.   Last fruit picked, mid to late November. Dropped fruit for better, more intense wine.  Herbal, leathery notes, more weight than usual. Very meaty long finish.

2020 Estate Syrah – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  This 100% Syrah saw almost 30% new oak.  Fruit forward, lots of spice.  Cozy feeling, “Hugs in a bottle”, smoke and bacon notes.  Very long finish, big mouth feel.

2020 Watch Hill Syrah – Alisos Canyon AVA near Los Alamos area.  94% Syrah, 6% Viognier.  25% whole cluster.  From the cooler hillside.   Deep, inky purple. Savory and fruity bite and finish.  Always a classic.

2020 Etranger Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  60% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah.   Inky, purplish grey in color.  Massive body with chocolate, coffee notes and blue fruit notes.  Added color and weight from the Petite. 

2019 Brazen Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, 70% Syrah, 30% Petite Sirah.   Only 45 cases (2 barrels) this wine spent two years in barrel and another in bottle before release. Ripe plum fruit with hints of licorice and espresso notes.

From one wine to the next, it was evident that Andrew hasn’t lost his touch.

We got to spend a little time with Andrew discussing the AMV wines, as well as what happens to the non-Rhone grapes that are grown on the 150 acres that are farmed by Andrew and his team – some go into their E11EVEN label [which has now taken over that Los Olivos tasting room] and others go to other wineries, including some big producers like Sutter Home and Joel Gott. We hadn’t seen him in some time and it was nice to catch up. With his and wife Kristen’s kids pretty much grown he still manages to look about the same as we recall from over 25 years ago – winemaking must agree with him. His wines will attest to that.

Andrew Murray Vineyards

www.andrewmurrayvineyards.com

5249 Foxen Canyon Road, Los Olivos, CA 93441

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Talking and Tasting with Aaron Lieberman of Willamette Valley’s Iris Vineyards

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Had the privilege to meet with winemaker Aaron Lieberman of Iris Vineyards recently, and taste through some of his wines from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. To make Lieberman’s trip more worthwhile I encouraged him to invite fellow wine blogger, collector and administrator of the popular Friends Who Like Wine in the Glass Facebook group, Steve Roebuck, to join us. (Roebuck’s extensive tasting notes, one of his specialties, are below.) I will share my interview notes and then Roebuck’s tasting notes.

Interview Notes

Though we don’t always see a lot of Pinot Noir on wine lists – Cab and Chard always have a bigger presence – Lieberman and Roebuck feel that Pinot is much more food friendly than some people (myself included) think.

ARETÉ, the name of their premier label, is only made with Estate grapes. Lieberman said that the name means “continual pursuit of excellence” and they keep the production between 100 to 200 cases per year.

They use screw caps for some wines, and a technical cork for the others. Lieberman said that the manufacturer guarantees these corks to be TCA free.

Learned a bit about Oregon Pinot Camp of which Lieberman is on the steering committee. There are 52 wineries that nominate “campers” to attend – all of which must be wine retailers or restaurateurs. (Lieberman is on the Willamette Valley Winery Association Board of directors and Oregon Pinot Camp is a function of this association.) Oh to be a fly on that wall and learn all about winemaking in the Willamette Valley!

Lieberman takes great pride, as he should, in his wines. These are not value or picnic or porch pounder wines, no matter how accessible the pricing may be for some. I found all of the wines to be fresh, with a nice mouthfeel and lingering finish. Many were cellar worthy.

One of Lieberman’s current challenges has been getting enough non-estate grapes. Since the fires of 2020, prices have gone up; newer vineyards may have better pricing, however Pinot Gris grapes sell for less so no one is planting them. (Iris Vineyards only experienced some smoke taint in 2020.)

What Lieberman will do when he retires, maybe by age 70: hang out in his garden with his dogs. I guess you can’t take the farming life away even from a retired winemaker.

You can find wine from Iris Vineyards in both retail shops and restaurants in California and restaurants in Nevada. For other states check their website for their current distribution, or buy directly from the website, if your state allows shipping. You can also plan a visit. They have a wine bar, live music and it’s on Springfield’s historic Main Street.

Tasting Notes Courtesy Stephen Roebuck

NV Iris Vineyards Willamette Valley Brut Sparkling Wine

Score: 91 Points. Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon. Blend: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay.

Wafting from the glass was an elegant bouquet of lemon meringue, shaved almonds, white peaches, pears, and a soft spray of brine. The wine had a nice level of acidity with a touch of chalky minerals and limestone that harmonized nicely with hints of orchard fruits, brioche, flint, lemon, and lime. This is a very pleasurable sparkling wine that is refreshing and pairs beautifully with food. Highly Recommended! Tasted: June 15, 2023.

2022 Iris Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris 

Score: 95 Points. Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon. Blend: 100% Pinot Gris.

This wine had an alluring bouquet of poached pears, white peaches, white flowers, lemon, pineapple, and crushed minerals. The wine had a nice level of acidity with a palate painted with hints of guava, pears, white peach, nectarine, crushed gravel, and lemon oil. There is a seductive quality to this wine as it is beautifully balanced, empowering the orchard fruits to harmonize perfectly with the minerality and crisp acidity that is subdued by a savory citrus oil on the finish. Extremely Highly Recommended! Tasted: June 15, 2023.

2021 Iris Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

Score: 91 Points. Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon. Blend: 100% Pinot Noir.

This elegant wine had a bouquet of strawberries, tart raspberries, forest floor, soft savory spices, and a delicate hint of blueberries. The wine had a nice level of acidity with rounded tannins that gave way to a lovely palate showing hints of ripe red berries, juicy pomegranate, pinesap, dried leaves, char, and baking spices. The wine is extremely approachable now and is well balanced; thus, enjoy it now, and it pairs nicely with food. Recommended! Tasted: June 15, 2023.

2021 Iris Vineyards Estate ARETÉ Pinot Noir

Score: 96 Points. Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon. Blend: 100% Pinot Noir.

A magnificent bouquet of cherries, ripe raspberries, cocoa powder, dried forest leaves, soft brine, graphite, and smoldering herbs. The wine had gripping but integrated tannins that gave way to a luxurious palate painted with hints of tart cherries, raspberries, cranberries, crushed granite, graphite, soft herbs, and a slight hint of orange blossom on the finish. This wine is brilliantly balanced with a nice level of acidity caressing the fruit and earth that harmonize perfectly together. The wine is approachable now but will reward those with the patience to cellar it for 8 to 10 years. Extremely Highly recommended! Tasted: June 15, 2023.

Link to Steve’s Facebook post is here. My notes: I agree with Steve, my only addition is that all of the wines we tried were lovely all the way through to the finish, and I look forward to ordering any of them whenever I see them on a restaurant wine list.

About Aaron from Iris Vineyards Website

Aaron’s interest in the Oregon wine industry started in 1990 while studying soil science at Oregon State University. After graduation, he spent three years in Guatemala with the Peace Corps. There he taught farmers how to improve crop yields through plant and seed selection. In 1996, Aaron landed a job at Amity Vineyards. He has managed and/or planted several notable vineyards in the Willamette Valley. In 2001, Aaron began working in commercial wine making starting with a harvest at De Ponte Cellars in the Dundee Hills under winemaker Isabelle Dutartre. In 2002 he began making wine for his own label while working at Walnut City Wineworks. Aaron accepted the assistant winemaker position at Owen Roe in the spring of 2003 where he worked with David O’Reilly through the 2007 vintage. Aaron was informed of the opportunity to work as the first winemaker at Iris Vineyards by a long time industry friend in the spring of 2008. Going into his fifteenth vintage at Iris, Aaron has a well-developed knowledge of the estate vineyard as well as the best ways by which to coax the most flavor from the grapes and into the glass.

https://irisvineyards.com/

https://www.instagram.com/irisvineyards/

https://www.facebook.com/irisvineyards

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, Cellarmasters, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlises Pick Folded Hills Winery/Ranch/Farmstead

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When we first heard of Folded Hills, we were excited that we were going to try a new winery.

Folded Hills was definitely new to us, although Eve’s Wine 101’s own Eve Bushman wrote about a tasting of their wines that she attended in early 2020:

www.evewine101.com/2020/02/28/discovering-folded-hills-winery-plus-winemaker-angela-osborne/

The winery itself is also fairly new. The 15 acres of vineyards were planted in 2014 and the first vintage of Folded Hills wine released was the 2015 vintage – of purchased grapes at that time, of course; by the 2016 vintage some estate grown grapes were used. The wines now are almost 100% estate, which are organically and bio-dynamically grown. The original tasting room opened in Montecito and the Homestead onsite tasting room not too long after that.

And the winemaker is pretty new, to this winery at least. Original winemaker Angela Osborne has moved on to devote more time to her own A Tribute To Grace winery and Michael Brughelli has been with Folded Hills since 2020. Michael is well known for his own brand, Brughelli, as well as Scar of the Sea, which he previously co-owned, in addition to his own Vignerons Consulting.

But all this newness belies the rich heritage of the property. If you are heading north on Highway 101 from Santa Barbara up to Buellton, this is the first winery property you will see. The original Homestead was established in 1898 and there were wine grapes planted and a winery here pre-prohibition. The entire property is about 600 acres, near Nojoqui Falls Park and the famous Alisal Ranch.

The owners have a rich heritage as well. Andy and Kim Busch moved their family to Santa Barbara County in 2002, after falling in love with the area when Andy was captain of the U.S. Polo team in 1998. It took a while but they found this property in 2004. Andy was no stranger to large properties and hard work, having managed Grant’s Farm in St. Louis Missouri which the Busch family has owned for generations.

We had the great pleasure of touring the farm with Andy Busch. His pride was evident and justified as he showed us that the vineyard and winery operations were just a small part of this beautiful property. We saw farmed crops and orchards, the beautiful lake, polo grounds and the amazing family home. There were lots of animals too, including peacocks, pigs, chickens, goats, alpacas, llamas and a zebra. Of course, there were Clydesdales – in case you haven’t already figured out, Andy is part of that famous Busch family. We even caught a glimpse of George the camel! Andy also pointed out to us the view of the hills seemingly folding into each other, which gave the property its name.

At the end of all this, it was just about time to taste some wines, but not before one of the farmers stopped by and offered us a taste of some of the sweetest strawberries we’ve ever had. Then, onto the tasting room, or in our case the patio just outside the tasting room.

What we tasted:

2022 Lilly Rose of Grenache – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  Fragrantly floral on the nose with stone fruit notes. Very bright and clean. Named after Andy’s great grandmother, Lilly Anheuser.

2021 August White – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  86% Grenache Blanc, 14% Viognier.  Lemon, green fruit notes and good minerality.  Nice long finish. Named after Andy’s father and grandfather.

2021 Estate White – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  50% Grenache Blanc, 37.5% Clairette Blanche and 12.5% Marsanne.   Light citrus notes and rich on palate due to the Marsanne with a lively finish.

2021 Grant Grenache – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   100% Grenache.   Milk chocolate on the nose. A naturally lighter style but with a full mouth feel and a medium finish. Named after Grant’s Farm in Missouri and its original Farmsteader, Ulysses S. Grant

2020 Estate Grenache – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   100% Grenache. The warmer year than the 2021 resulted in bright red fruit with some new oak imparting vanilla and cocoa notes. Fuller body than the 2021 also with a lingering finish.  Mostly from Golden Eagle block. 

2020 GSM – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   A classic blend of 58% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 12% Mourvedre, Ripe, dark fruit and herbaceous on both nose and finish. 

2019 August Red Blend – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  70% Grenache, 30% Syrah.  Cote de Rhone style blend with cherry and pomegranate on the nose.  Clove and spices notes.  Sharper tannins, lower acidity, very structured.    

2020 Estate Syrah – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   100% Syrah. From the Nojoqui Vineyard, the southernmost block of Syrah. Deep, burgundy color. Plum, and boysenberry on nose, very fruit driven. Tobacco, leather and mocha notes followed by a lush finish, with a hint of sweetness belying its dry fermentation.

We really appreciate that Andy spent so much time to give us the complete flavor of the property. The wines themselves are delicious, elegant and among the best we have tasted in Santa Barbara County. You can taste and acquire these wines at the Montecito tasting room or the Homestead tasting room. If you can, we recommend you go to the winery to enjoy the entire experience. If you go, please say hello to George for us.

From Folded Hills: “To meet George, guests can book a private tour by emailing events@foldedhills.com. We also have a wine club and awesome private club member events…like our Polo Classic, where guests get to tailgate and picnic while watching a polo match on the Folded Hills Private Polo Field.” 

Folded Hills Winery / Ranch / Farmstead

www.foldedhills.com

Tasting Room at the Homestead: 2323 Old Coast Highway, Gaviota CA 93117

Tasting Room and Wine Shop in Montecito: 1294 Coast Village Road, Montecito CA 93108

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Perlises Pick Vega Vineyard and Farm

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With the refrain of 1970s Peter Allen song “Everything Old Is New Again” seemingly ringing in our ears, we were looking forward to visiting some of our old favorites in Santa Barbara County from the 1980s and 1990s while also exploring some new-to-us wineries. It turned out that our first stop was a little bit of both.

Mosby Winery and Vineyards was founded in 1977 by Bill Mosby in what is now known as the Santa Rita Hills AVA of Santa Barbara Country, just south of the Highway 101 exit to Buellton, with a focus on Italian varietals. When the Mosbys acquired the property, it carried the name of Rancho de la Vega, named as such in 1853 by its then owners Dr. Roman de la Cuesta and his wife Michaela Cota. The Mosbys originally kept the name Vega Vineyards but eventually changed it to Mosby Winery. Bill Mosby passed away in June 2020.

The property was acquired in 2022 by Karen and Jimmy Loizides, who had already made a name for themselves in the area with restaurants such as Sear Steakhouse and Maverick Saloon as well as K’Syrah Catering. They renamed the property Vega Vineyard and Farm, hearkening back to its original name and rich history. Bringing in acclaimed winemaker Steve Clifton, whose name you may recognize not only from Brewer Clifton but also as owner/winemaker of Italian varietal focused Palmina winery, was a great move. Note that Palmina has merged into Vega Vineyard and Farm.

We had the pleasure of sitting on the tasting patio and enjoying several of the wines that Steve Clifton made that are now under the Vega label.

2021 Albarino – Santa Maria Valley AVA. This 100% Albarino spent time in stainless steel and neutral oak. Citrus on the nose with peach and apricot notes.  Lovely fruit finish and medium to full mouth feel.

2021 Pinot Grigio – Santa Barbara Country. This 100% Pinot Grigio was very crisp, lively and clean with grapefruit notes. Effervescent on the finish.  This wine really presents as serious, unlike some other PGs out there.

2021 Bianco White Wine Blend – Santa Barbara County. This slightly untraditional Italian blend of Albarino, Vermentino and Marsanne spent time in neutral oak. It had nice acidity and was well balanced with a big mouth feel. 

2021 Viognier – Santa Maria Valley AVA. This 100% Viognier only spent time in stainless steel.  White flower on the nose with Meyer Lemon notes.  A lovely mouth feel and very round and smooth.  

2021 Vermentino – Los Olivos District AVA. Aged in neutral oak, the wine showed fruit such as Bosc pear notes. Medium acidity and a touch of minerality.  Very pleasant mouth feel and finish. 

2021 Pinot Noir – Sta. Rita Hills AVA.  From Our Lady of Guadalupe vineyard, on the western end the AVA near Lompoc. Big plummy red fruit on nose.  Cinnamon and clove notes with a medium mouth feel and finish.

2021 Barbera – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  Bing cherry notes, excellent food wine and paired perfectly with the delicious Bacon and Caramelized Fennel Flatbread we had ordered.  Low acidity and medium tannins with medium-to-full mouth feel and finish.

2019 Nebbiolo – Santa Barbara County. Raspberry and cranberry notes.  Nice big tannins and a long, supple finish.

2020 Syrah – Ballard Canyon AVA.  A warmer climate.  Big black berry aromas with white pepper notes.  Luscious mouth feel and finish.

We did not spend as much time as we wanted to explore the property; it is huge. They have a full kitchen for your dining pleasure as well as a petting zoo. Lunch options are available every day. A marketplace is in the works which will have picnic items, olive oil, candy, toys, etc. This is a spot for the whole family. They are going to be host of the Santa Barbara Vintners Festival on October 14, 2023 and the place will be rocking!   Everyone in the family will have a great time; we sure did.

Vega Vineyard and Farm

www.vegavineyardandfarm.com

9496 Santa Rosa Road, Buellton CA 93427

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Discovering Moraga Bel Air

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All I knew about Moraga Bel Air wines is that they were founded in 1989 and that the vineyards are indeed in Bel Air, California. When they offered to send me one of their whites and a red, and join in on a Zoom meeting with their new winemaker Paul Warson, it was a great chance for me – and you – to discover much more.

Learning More About Moraga

Great day for a Zoom meeting – said no one ever. But this one, where we didn’t have to brace the storms in Los Angeles of late to meet in person, was well worth it. The meeting was led by Moraga Bel Air winemaker Paul Warson, who joined the winery in 2021. Here are some of the things we found:

  • Warson is a seasoned winemaker with roots at UC Davis. He has made wine in places such as Australia, Napa and the Central Coast. His longest tenure was with Foley and their Firestone property.
  • Warson feels that Moraga is best experienced by visiting the winery, the cave and with a tasting. Marketing Director Philip Cavanagh explained that reserved tastings include four of their current releases as well as tastes from their cellar, accompanied with a cheese and charcuterie selection from the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop. Each tasting runs 90 minutes to two hours, can accommodate four and upwards of 150 guests in a corporate gathering. Reservations can be made via email with Philip@MoragaBelAir.com
  • There will be a new second label coming out in the next month or so where 20% of the sales will be going to charity. The wines will be non-vintage and a made from a collection of Moraga grapes.
  • If you check out their Facebook page you may see a few posts with photos of sheep grazing in the vineyard. Though the sheep are now gone, their work completed within about 14 days, they will be back. The vineyard is now experiencing bud break.
  • Warson said that everything they need to make wine is at Moraga Bel Air. From red fermenters to the wine press to stainless steel drums and barrels. The cave itself is never above 60 degrees. “It’s a Fantasyland,” Warson said, “it’s a lot of fun and it’s easy.”

Tasting Notes (My notes follow theirs, noted as EB in italics.)

2019 White (Not stated on label: Sauvignon Blanc) 14.7 alcohol.

From the website: Golden in the glass, it begins with lush aroma of white peach, nectarine and white flowers. The palate opens with a flash of acidity followed by smooth waves of honey-dusted nectarine and seared stone fruit. The exotic fruit and mineral characteristics of our vineyard dominate the flavor profile. The wine is an atypically long-lived Sauvignon Blanc. $92

EB: A decadent Sauvignon Blanc with amazing aromas and flavors of white peach, lemon-lime soda, cantaloupe melon, Meyer lemon zest with a beautiful mouthfeel that just lingered on the palate forever. Warson said that the wine was made in a Bordeaux style, and had a generous amount of flintiness. Another reviewer on the Zoom call noticed a salinity. I went back in for another whiff and it did remind me of an ocean breeze. The property, Warson said, is four miles from the Santa Monica Bay.

2017 Red (Not stated on label: Cabernet Sauvignon) 14.7 alcohol.

From the website: There is a unique and identifiable Moraga signature of soft tannins, supple texture, pure black Cabernet fruit, currant and tobacco. This vintage shows black cherry, roasted coffee and a hint of caramel on the ripe nose. Polished tannins and fresh acidity deliver flavors of blackberry jam, truffle, vanilla, and caramel. $140

EB: This wine, a Bordeaux blend that included 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 1.5% Petit Verdot and 1.5% Cabernet Franc, blew my socks off. It was BIG with notes of red to blue fruit, black peppercorns, bark, smoke, and chocolate with dried cherry bits. Big fruit with equally big tannins allowed for an extremely long finish. The wine, after some time in new French oak, had spent 26 months in the bottle before its release. Warson plans to “dial it back” but I was plenty happy with how this red presented.

https://www.moragabelair.com/

https://www.instagram.com/moragabelair/

https://www.facebook.com/MoragaBelAir?ref=br_rs

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 17k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Las Vegas Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Reviewing the New Smith-Madrone 2018 Riesling

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Before tasting the latest Riesling from Smith-Madrone I was reminded of a time years ago when I attended a Riesling class and food pairing. The wines were from one winery in the Mosel region of Germany (grown on steep hillsides similar to Smith-Madrone) and I remember that only the last couple of wines we sampled could be described as sweet. It was eye-opening for me at the time as I had assumed all Rieslings to be sweet, prior to taking my first wine certification classes, and was pleasantly surprised to learn that I was wrong.

I was equally – and very pleasantly – surprised when I had my first Riesling wine from Smith-Madrone. The 2017 Smith-Madrone Riesling review of mine is here and here is the fact sheet for the 2018 that I’m tasting with you today. Below are my tasting notes and below that is information from the winery.


2018 Smith–Madrone Riesling Tasting Notes

13.3% alcohol, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley

The wine is the color of pale gold, and sparkly, making it very appealing. On the nose, which I detected from about three inches away, I was reminded of sweet Meyer lemons, ripe grapefruit, wet pebbles in a stream, a touch of pineapple, talcum powder and Golden Delicious apples. I was anxious to taste the wine and immediately noted its rich mouth-coating viscosity, a lot of that Golden Delicious apple I found on the nose, as well as more pineapple, less lemon, with a mild to medium acidity that held on for a nice long finish. It wasn’t bone dry or sweet; instead it had a nice sweet spot that I thought would pair well with a cheese board, pasta in a cream sauce, fried chicken or all by itself!

From The Winery

The wine is all estate Spring Mountain District fruit, 100% Riesling, grown at an elevation of 1,300-1,900 feet, with slopes angling up to 34%. The vineyard is partially dry-farmed and most of the Riesling was planted on its own rootstock…the same hands cleared, planted, tend and make the wine…for the last fifty years.

Only 1,611 cases made. SRP is $36.00.

Winemaker Charlie Smith describes the wine: The 2018 Riesling opens with abundant floral notes buttressed by underpinnings of lime, lemon and exotic oranges. This delicate, fetching aroma leads one to expect a wine on the lighter, more delicate side and, when tasted, this expectation is confirmed. On the palate the wine is stylish and elegant, demonstrating a brilliant acidity that is at once fine and lively, tasty and fun and not the least off putting. The acid feels just right; it’s very much like biting into a delicious, crunchy Riesling flavored apple. For a wine of this delicate construction, it still manages to retain a solid core of vibrant fruit. It’s svelte and elegant, it’s drinking beautifully now and shows great promise for the future.

Smith-Madrone was founded partly on the premise of making great Riesling (i.e., not to dis the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay!), given its mountain site and steep slopes. Stu Smith describes the effort to market Riesling as Sisyphean…and to that point beginning with the 1983 Riesling vintage Smith-Madrone went where no other American winery would go for the next 17 years – changing the label from Johannisberg Riesling to “just” Riesling, and essentially outlasting the BATF and prevailing with that name.

Smith-Madrone’s Riesling is one of perhaps less than ten Rieslings grown/made in the Napa Valley.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlises Pick: Morgan Winery

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Visiting Monterey County Wine Country can present some challenges. The area is huge and getting to wineries can result in a lot of driving time. Fortunately, many wineries have established tasting rooms in and around Carmel, often several miles away from their winemaking facilities.

Morgan Winery is one of these. While the winery itself is in Salinas, in 2007 their tasting room called Taste Morgan was opened in the Crossroads Shopping Center just south of downtown Carmel and at the gateway to Carmel Valley.

The winery itself was actually founded a couple of decades earlier in 1982 by Daniel Morgan Lee and his wife Donna. Morgan is not only Daniel’s middle name but also his mother’s maiden name. Prior to founding Morgan, Dan graduated from UC Davis – he had planned on studying veterinary medicine but then discovered their wine program. After stints at Jekel Winery and Durney Vineyard, he and his former banker [now his wife] started their own label.

In 1996, they purchased property in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA that would become the Double L Vineyard, commemorating the Double Luck of having their twin daughters. Planted primarily to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this vineyard is certified organic and is the source of the winery’s estate bottlings. As a result, our tasting focused on these varietals, which is what Monterey County has built much of its reputation on. Morgan does produce some other wines as well and we were fortunate to taste of few of those too:

2021 Sauvignon Blanc – sourced from a few vineyards in the Arroyo Seco appellation: Cedar Lane, Ranch Ten, Riverbank and Zabala. Nice peach notes with a medium to long finish and medium mouth feel. Soft and tasty. 

2021 Metallico Un-Oaked Chardonnay – a combination of Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards, including the Double L along with the Leavens and McIntyre Vineyards. Pleasant citrus nose with Meyer Lemon notes on the palate and a full mouth feel.

2021 Rosé of Grenache from Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco– a light nose with mixed berry and raspberry notes. Very slight hint of saltiness and a medium finish.

2020 Double L Chardonnay (Clone RR – Roger Rose) – from Morgan’s estate vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. White flower and jasmine nose.  Asian pear, buttery notes. Big, ripe, creamy, full mouthfeel, long finish. Stunning example of what chardonnay can be.  

2019 Double L Chardonnay- also from the estate vineyard. Pleasant mixed citrus nose and a fitting little brother to the Double L Chardonnay (Clone RR).

2019 Twelve Clones Pinot Noir – from a few Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards: Double L, Leaven, Boekenoogen, Tondré, and Rosella’s. Light color, classic Pinot Noir.  Ripe, red berry fruit notes.  Light and delicate on palate.

2019 Tondré Pinot Noir – from the Tondré Grapefield Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Red stone fruit notes. Big mouth feel, medium to long finish.

2019 Double L Pinot – from the Estate vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. White pepper notes, a touch of smoke, firm structure, supple and subtle.

2020 Tempranillo – from the Riverbank Vineyard, Arroyo Seco. Raisin notes with a big, smooth mouth feel. Velvety and elegant.

The tasting room is roomy, comfortable and very inviting. There are options of tasting at the bar, or enjoying window seating or at a table.  Outside seating is also available. The tastings were served in individual carafes so you can enjoy at your own pace. 

Taste Morgan is definitely worth a visit next time you are in the Carmel area.  

Taste Morgan  www.morganwinery.com/Visit-Us/Taste-Morgan                                             

204 Crossroads Boulevard
Carmel, California 93923

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.