Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Thacher Winery dinner at Tam O’Shanter

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We recently wrote about a wine dinner at Tam O’Shanter restaurant featuring Carol Shelton Wines that we were unfortunately unable to attend. At the time, we had resolved to do our best to make it to the next wine dinner at The Tam, and that opportunity came sooner than expected when Tam O’Shanter paired up with Thacher Winery of Paso Robles.

Michelle and Sherman Thacher discovered the Kentucky Ranch in what is now the Adelaida AVA of Paso Robles in 2003 when they attended a wedding there. They ended up buying the property soon thereafter and Thacher Winery officially opened in 2008, in time for their fourth harvest. The focus is primarily on Rhone varietals and Zinfandel from a combination of estate and purchased fruit. We’ve tasted and enjoyed the Thacher wines at events but have not yet visited the winery.

It is always an eye-opening and palate-gratifying reminder what a talented executive chef such as The Tam’s JC Salazar can do when using his expertise to create dishes to pair with selected wines. An added bonus was having Tony Quealy, Thacher Winery’s General Manager, available to discuss the wines and the winery.

Here is the menu with our comments in italics:

Lemon Hamachi Crudo – fennel, cucumber, apple-pear, watermelon radish, aguachile, smoked salt paired with 2021 Own Rooted Chenin Blanc – Shell Creek Vineyard, Highlands District, Paso Robles AVA.

First of all, kudos for using Chenin Blanc, a much overlooked grape these days. Even more kudos for using grapes from a vineyard planted in 1972. With a lemon and apricot nose, it was crisp and clean with grapefruit notes. Moderate acidity and body and very well balanced with a medium to long finish. The wine was a perfect accompaniment to the refreshing and complex crudo and was perfectly timed to the hot-day segueing into a pleasantly cool evening.    

Lamb, Lavender & Plums – New Zealand Lamb Rack, Romanesco succotash, plum chutney, lavender honey paired with 2019 Constant Variable – Central Coast.

Is there a better pairing with lamb than Rhone varietals? We think not. In this case, the wine was a blend of 37% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 7% Cinsaut, 7% Counoise and 2% Viognier. Tony referred to this as Thacher’s flagship wine. The deep burgundy/maroon wine presented with dark, ripe stone fruit and a hint of white pepper on the nose. There were spicy notes from the Counoise along with a hint of baking spices. Extremely well balanced in body and acidity with added freshness from the Cinsaut. The mouthfeel was full and the finish was long. All the varietals were barreled separately except for the co-fermented Syrah and Viognier. The richness of the lamb with the chutney and honey proved to be both sweet and savory and this wine helped to bring out these aspects.

Certified Angus NY Strip – potato fondant, glazed Globe carrots, asparagus ribbons, shiitake demi paired with 2018 Original Copy – Adelaida District, Paso Robles AVA.

As lamb pairs with Rhone varietals, beef pairs with Bordeaux varietals. In this case, a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 14% Cabernet Franc combine to make a wine that is deep, dark, rich burgundy in color with aromas of ripe plum. Nicely structured and medium-bodied, with earthy and smoky nuances and a medium to long finish. The bold flavors of the perfectly cooked steak dipped in the demi went hand in hand with the Bordeaux blend.

Olive Oil Cake – macerated cherries, almond brittle, Fosselman’s vanilla ice cream paired with 2020 Working Holiday, Cass Vineyard Red, Paso Robles Geneseo District, Paso Robles AVA.

The dessert was not overly sweet and was delightful with this fruit forward wine from the renowned Cass vineyard on the east side of Paso Robles. A combination of 54% Syrah, 37% Grenache and 9% Mourvedre, this Rhone blend and lively, ripe raspberry on the nose and followed through with the same on the palate. A perfect way to end a perfect dinner, leaving you satisfied and looking forward to the next time.

In addition to greatly enjoying our dinner, we learned a few things about Thacher Winery from GM Tony Quealy. Production is about 5,000 cases, of which about 65% is Estate. Estate growth is being expanded, including plantings of Mencia, a red grape grown in Spain and Portugal, as well as a mixed white field blend. The logo for Thacher Winery is a grasshopper, based on the Thacher family crest going back to Sherman’s English heritage. And shortly after we attended the dinner, we learned that Brenna Hill had been promoted from Cellar Lead to Assistant Winemaker at Thacher.

We want to thank Tam O’Shanter management and staff for an excellent dinner, both in food and service. We have never felt better taken care of. We are looking forward to the next wine dinner to see what imaginative dishes Executive Chef JC will come up with, although we will definitely be revisiting Tam O’Shanter before then. And the Thacher Winery and Vineyard will be on our agenda the next time we are in Paso Robles, one of our absolute favorite stomping grounds.

Thacher Winery & Vineyard

www.thacherwinery.com

8355 Vineyard Dr, Paso Robles, CA 93446

The Tam O’Shanter Restaurant

www.lawrysonline.com/tam-o-shanter

2980 Los Feliz Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90039Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Review: Rose and White Prosecco from Villa Sandi in Treviso

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So happy to have the opportunity to taste and review three Prosecco wines, from the Villa Sandi winery in Italy, one white and two rose! (Rose Prosecco is a newer wine to be allowed in the DOCG, making me even more excited to try.) Prosecco must be made from at least 85% of the Glera grape. For the white, this was blended with Chardonnay and with the roses it was blended with Pinot Nero. The notes below after my initials are my tasting notes, the rest of the descriptions of the wine and winery came with my samples.

The Wines
Villa Sandi , Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, NV SRP $25
From the hilly and historic DOCG area Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, this Prosecco is made with 85% Glera and 15% Chardonnay. This luscious and fruity wine shows golden apple, stone fruit and honey aromas, followed by flavors balanced by lively acidity and a mouthwatering finish.

EB: This was the sole white sparkler, though looking at the color in the bottle in reminded me of a light lemon. (This wine and all of the others, was sampled in a wine glass instead of a flute, so the bubbles are not as noticeable but the aromas are.) Aromas included white peach, lemon and cream. Got many more of those aromas on the mouth: that same creaminess and lemon like a lemon Gelato, lemon ice or Limoncello, as well as peach (a stone fruit), with a balanced finish of fruit and creaminess.

Villa Sandi Il Fresco Rosé, Treviso DOC, NV, SRP $17
Crafted from a blend of native Italian grape varieties 90% Glera and 10% Pinot Nero Il Fresco Rosé epitomizes the perfect summer wine. Aromas of fresh berries and a hint of spice lead to a palate of crisp acidity and a creamy mouthfeel. This delightful sparkler is dry, fresh and zesty.

EB: This wine, a Rose Brut Rosato, was the color of strawberries. On the nose there was plum, strawberry, pomegranate and a noticeable minerality. The taste reminded me of sweet fresh and stewed fruit, strawberry shaved ice, a bit of ruby port wine with some minerality and a medium finish.

Villa Sandi il Fresco DOC Rosé Millesimato 2021, SRP $22
This vintage is crafted from a blend of 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Nero grapes in the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. Its aromatic freshness offers a bouquet of red fruits and floral scents with notes of pomegranate and rose. The well-balanced palate is silky and full.

EB: Our last wine to sample was also the color of a fruit, this time it was ripe peach. Somehow that same peach also came forward on the nose, along with melon and wet stones. Tasting the wine I got cantaloupe, honeydew and kiwi with a mild acidity and balance.

About

A sparkling jewel in the heart of the Treviso Province, Villa Sandi’s majestic property with an extensive network of underground cellars, dates back to 1622. Today, the villa is headquarters to Tenuta Villa Sandi owned by the Moretti Polegato family.

Rooted in tradition, their inspiring wine story began in the 1920s with the purchase of vineyards by Mario Polegato. The untimely sudden passing of his son, saw his daughter-in-law Amalia Moretti take the helm in the 1970s, and she and her children took charge in restoring the Villa Sandi estate to its former glory. Pioneers in the export of Prosecco, in the early 1980s they lead the way  in raising international awareness and appreciation for Prosecco. 

A fertile land of ancient origins, Villa Sandi now comprises five estates that extend through the regions of Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia and encompass the entire Prosecco area, from the gentle hills of the Asolo DOCG, to the steep slopes of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, to the special Cru of Cartizze.

At every stage of production, from vineyard to wine cellar, Villa Sandi is committed to environmental protection and the development of a new ethic of cultivation. Their Biodiversity Friend Certification is a sustainable agriculture model with a low environmental impact employing eco-friendly measures that promote biodiversity and minimize their carbon footprint.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, Cellarmasters, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlises Pick Zaca Mesa Winery

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Zaca Mesa Winery just celebrated its 50th anniversary. That’s quite an achievement in this relatively young wine region. The land was purchased in 1973 by John Cushman and five of his friends. It was only the third winery in Santa Barbary County and served as the training ground for many winemakers who then went on to become famous. Its first winemaker was Ken Brown, and some other notables are Adam Tolmach, Jim Clendenen, Bob Lindquist and Daniel Gehrs, to name just a few. It is no wonder that the winery is sometimes referred to as Zaca University or just Zaca U. Current Head Winemaker and GM Kristin Bryden and Associate Winemaker Andrew Keil are maintaining the Zaca Mesa tradition.

Rhone varietals are the primary focus at Zaca Mesa. In fact, the first Syrah grown in Santa Barbara County was planted in 1978 in the Black Bear Block of the Zaca Mesa Vineyard. Of course, the region is also well known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which is now produced under their TREAD label.

We had an opportunity to taste some of the wines one beautiful afternoon on the Zaca Mesa patio:

2018 Roussanne Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA from the Foxen Block. 100% Roussanne. White flowers on the nose. Ripe, creamy, peach notes with a luscious, rich finish. 

2019 TREAD Pinot Noir – Santa Barbara County – from Cottonwood Canyon, Spear, John Sebastiano, Bien Nacido and La Encantada vineyards. 100% Pinot Noir. Classic notes of cherry and raspberry. Solid on the middle palate and medium body with notes of mushroom and autumn leaves followed by a smooth finish.

2020 TREAD La Encantada Pinot Noir Black Label – Sta. Rita Hills AVA, La Encantada Vineyard. 100% Pinot Noir. Bright fruit, pomegranate and strawberry nose. Earthy notes of black tea and nutmeg. 

2021 TREAD Our Lady of Guadalupe Pinot Noir – Sta. Rita Hills AVA, Our Lady of Guadalupe Vineyard. Big plummy red fruit on nose. Wisps of cinnamon and clove notes with a medium mouthfeel and finish.

2017 Mourvedre Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, from the Chapel and Mesa Blocks. 95% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah. Deep, dark burgundy color. Brambly berry with pepper notes. Medium finish, full body. 

2018 Toyon – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Zaca Mesa, TTT, Vogelzang, Happy Canyon vineyards. An unusual blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre and Petit Verdot, the wine is named for a local shrub that grows around the Zaca Mesa vineyard. The Petit accounts for the deep color and the blend is softened by the Cabernet. Blueberry fruit notes with a full mouthfeel and medium finish. [Note that the actual Toyon shrub produces bright red berries – don’t eat these though; they’re poisonous!]   

2016 Estrella Syrah Estate Black Label – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Mesa Block. 100% Syrah/Estrella Clone.  Deep color, almost black. Star anise nose with black fruit and black currant notes.  Layered, structured, and very yummy.

2017 Mesa Reserve Syrah Estate – Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Chapel and Mesa Blocks. 100% Syrah. Big jammy fruit with a touch of lavender and eucalyptus on the nose. Milk chocolate, white pepper notes and a whisper of tobacco leaf notes. Long, complex and balanced finish.

The Cushman family continues to own Zaca Mesa Vineyard after all these years. Sadly, shortly after our visit we learned that founder John Cushman had passed away. Belated condolences to his family, friends and everyone at Zaca Mesa Winery and beyond. The Santa Barbara County wine region would have been a lot different without his vision and we are all grateful for what he accomplished. Here is a nice video that Zaca Mesa posted: John Cushman on Founding Zaca Mesa – YouTube.

Zaca Mesa Winery

www.zacamesa.com

6905 Foxen Canyon Road, Los Olivos, CA 93441

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whisky is Unveiled in the U.S. Market

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NEW YORK (PRWEB) – Isle of Skye, a Skye Blended Scotch Whisky brand within the Ian Macleod Distillers portfolio, has announced the U.S. launch of their full range, from 8 years old to 30 years. This whisky has a completely new premium look and feel, with each bottle proudly displaying the famous ‘Cuillin Ridge’ hills that lie at the heart of the island itself.

This blended Scotch was created by Ian Macleod on Skye in 1933 and was inspired by the dramatic landscapes of the island. Skye is the most popular of Scotland’s islands and is famously used as a location for many films and TV series. An ancient island which has been carved by the elements and is a theater of natural drama. The influence of the island can still be seen today in the whisky, which is described as ‘soul-stirring’ with each sip transporting you to this land of myth and legend.

To blend the Isle of Skye, Ian Macleod Distillers skilfully uses malt whisky from Skye and complement it with stunning malt and grain whiskies from the mainland of Scotland, to produce a unique whisky with a very high malt content. This gives the Scotch a complex and incredibly smooth flavor, bursting with tropical fruits, spice and chocolate.

Isle of Skye has been created to be enjoyed neat, on the rocks or as the perfect base for a variety of cocktails due to its complex and layered flavors.

Iain Weir, Brand Director for Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whisky says, “We are delighted to share the updated Isle of Skye range with the U.S. The unique, rich flavors of the whisky are a testament to the careful blending and premium malts and grain that we use to create it. Our stunning new packaging really tells the story of the brand and showcases its heritage on the ancient Isle of Skye.”

The full range of Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whiskies to be released in the United States are as follows:

The 8 Year Old (SRP: $20.99) has gentle sweetness on the nose with floral notes, citrus aromas, and subtle smoke. Peat smoke on the palate along with shellfish, toffee, vanilla and heather. Dry to finish with continued smoke.

The 12 Year Old (SRP: $27.99) has creamy vanilla fragrances with orange zest, ground coriander, honeycomb, and distant heather fire. Smooth and balanced palate with flavors of dried apricot, gooseberry, and a gentle spice. Lingering peat finish with notes of lime, dark chocolate, and fresh mint.

The 18 Year Old (SRP: $64.99) has gooseberry and cinnamon aromas caught on a coastal breeze, lime, chilli, and black pepper. Gentle smoke on the palate gives way to citrus zest, fruitcake, and toffee notes. A peat smoke finish ebbs into rounded malt and dark chocolate.
*Award: Gold Medal in 2023 San Francisco World Spirits Competition

The 21 Year Old (SRP: $114.99) has shelled walnuts with dried banana and brown sugar on the nose, with wood smoke, clementine and treacle. A rich body with a mouthfeel to match, yielding to honeyed porridge, tropical fruit, and allspice. A wonderfully tenacious rich oak finish with dried fruits, and soft peat smoke.

The 25 Year Old (SRP: $206.99) has rich and oaky ginger on the nose mixed with vanilla, red apple, and citrus. Rounded and fruity on the palate, with notes of malt and more apple, giving way to a wisp of peat smoke. A balanced and dry finish with lingering hints of apricot.

The 30 Year Old (SRP: $321.99) has vanilla and light oak on the nose with hints of bakewell tart, coconut, and a floral top note. Silky and sweet butter pastry on the palate, mixed with fresh malt and raisins. A remarkable 30 Year Old blended Scotch.
*Award: Gold Medals in 2023 International Wine & Spirit Competition and 2023 San Francisco World Spirits Competition

Consumers can now purchase the full Isle of Skye Blended Scotch Whisky range in select retail shops throughout the U.S. and the whiskies are available in 7ooml sized bottles.

About Ian Macleod Distillers: The Isle of Skye blended Scotch whisky is owned by Ian Macleod Distillers. Established in 1933, Ian Macleod Distillers is one of Scotland’s leading independent, family- owned distillers, blenders and bottlers. They are the world’s 10th largest Scotch Whisky company, producing and selling over 15 million bottles of spirits every year. Ian Macleod Distillers has built up an enviable portfolio of premium quality spirits and is proud brand proprietor of Glengoyne, Tamdhu, Rosebank and Smokehead Scotch whiskies and Edinburgh Gin to name but a few. For more information, visit http://www.ianmacleod.com

Perlises Pick Folded Hills Winery/Ranch/Farmstead

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When we first heard of Folded Hills, we were excited that we were going to try a new winery.

Folded Hills was definitely new to us, although Eve’s Wine 101’s own Eve Bushman wrote about a tasting of their wines that she attended in early 2020:

www.evewine101.com/2020/02/28/discovering-folded-hills-winery-plus-winemaker-angela-osborne/

The winery itself is also fairly new. The 15 acres of vineyards were planted in 2014 and the first vintage of Folded Hills wine released was the 2015 vintage – of purchased grapes at that time, of course; by the 2016 vintage some estate grown grapes were used. The wines now are almost 100% estate, which are organically and bio-dynamically grown. The original tasting room opened in Montecito and the Homestead onsite tasting room not too long after that.

And the winemaker is pretty new, to this winery at least. Original winemaker Angela Osborne has moved on to devote more time to her own A Tribute To Grace winery and Michael Brughelli has been with Folded Hills since 2020. Michael is well known for his own brand, Brughelli, as well as Scar of the Sea, which he previously co-owned, in addition to his own Vignerons Consulting.

But all this newness belies the rich heritage of the property. If you are heading north on Highway 101 from Santa Barbara up to Buellton, this is the first winery property you will see. The original Homestead was established in 1898 and there were wine grapes planted and a winery here pre-prohibition. The entire property is about 600 acres, near Nojoqui Falls Park and the famous Alisal Ranch.

The owners have a rich heritage as well. Andy and Kim Busch moved their family to Santa Barbara County in 2002, after falling in love with the area when Andy was captain of the U.S. Polo team in 1998. It took a while but they found this property in 2004. Andy was no stranger to large properties and hard work, having managed Grant’s Farm in St. Louis Missouri which the Busch family has owned for generations.

We had the great pleasure of touring the farm with Andy Busch. His pride was evident and justified as he showed us that the vineyard and winery operations were just a small part of this beautiful property. We saw farmed crops and orchards, the beautiful lake, polo grounds and the amazing family home. There were lots of animals too, including peacocks, pigs, chickens, goats, alpacas, llamas and a zebra. Of course, there were Clydesdales – in case you haven’t already figured out, Andy is part of that famous Busch family. We even caught a glimpse of George the camel! Andy also pointed out to us the view of the hills seemingly folding into each other, which gave the property its name.

At the end of all this, it was just about time to taste some wines, but not before one of the farmers stopped by and offered us a taste of some of the sweetest strawberries we’ve ever had. Then, onto the tasting room, or in our case the patio just outside the tasting room.

What we tasted:

2022 Lilly Rose of Grenache – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  Fragrantly floral on the nose with stone fruit notes. Very bright and clean. Named after Andy’s great grandmother, Lilly Anheuser.

2021 August White – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  86% Grenache Blanc, 14% Viognier.  Lemon, green fruit notes and good minerality.  Nice long finish. Named after Andy’s father and grandfather.

2021 Estate White – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  50% Grenache Blanc, 37.5% Clairette Blanche and 12.5% Marsanne.   Light citrus notes and rich on palate due to the Marsanne with a lively finish.

2021 Grant Grenache – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   100% Grenache.   Milk chocolate on the nose. A naturally lighter style but with a full mouth feel and a medium finish. Named after Grant’s Farm in Missouri and its original Farmsteader, Ulysses S. Grant

2020 Estate Grenache – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   100% Grenache. The warmer year than the 2021 resulted in bright red fruit with some new oak imparting vanilla and cocoa notes. Fuller body than the 2021 also with a lingering finish.  Mostly from Golden Eagle block. 

2020 GSM – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   A classic blend of 58% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 12% Mourvedre, Ripe, dark fruit and herbaceous on both nose and finish. 

2019 August Red Blend – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.  70% Grenache, 30% Syrah.  Cote de Rhone style blend with cherry and pomegranate on the nose.  Clove and spices notes.  Sharper tannins, lower acidity, very structured.    

2020 Estate Syrah – Santa Ynez Valley AVA.   100% Syrah. From the Nojoqui Vineyard, the southernmost block of Syrah. Deep, burgundy color. Plum, and boysenberry on nose, very fruit driven. Tobacco, leather and mocha notes followed by a lush finish, with a hint of sweetness belying its dry fermentation.

We really appreciate that Andy spent so much time to give us the complete flavor of the property. The wines themselves are delicious, elegant and among the best we have tasted in Santa Barbara County. You can taste and acquire these wines at the Montecito tasting room or the Homestead tasting room. If you can, we recommend you go to the winery to enjoy the entire experience. If you go, please say hello to George for us.

From Folded Hills: “To meet George, guests can book a private tour by emailing events@foldedhills.com. We also have a wine club and awesome private club member events…like our Polo Classic, where guests get to tailgate and picnic while watching a polo match on the Folded Hills Private Polo Field.” 

Folded Hills Winery / Ranch / Farmstead

www.foldedhills.com

Tasting Room at the Homestead: 2323 Old Coast Highway, Gaviota CA 93117

Tasting Room and Wine Shop in Montecito: 1294 Coast Village Road, Montecito CA 93108

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Tasting Wines from Colorado!

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It’s been some time since I’ve tried wines from Colorado, probably since I took my certified course as an American Wine Specialist® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA) a few years back. So when I was offered the opportunity to taste wines from the label The Ordinary Fellow, hailing from Southwest Colorado, I thought, yes! Time for some continuing education! I joined a zoom meeting with winemaker Ben Parsons and fellow wine journalists to learn about Parsons, the winery and the wines.

Winemaker Ben Parsons and The Ordinary Fellow

Parsons has a CV as long as my arm, my notes are lengthy and begin with his time selling wine in London – he is an Englishman – but he quickly outgrew his original intentions and wanted to make wine. He won a scholarship in the late 1990s and ended up attending the University of Adelaide in South Australia. After University he made wine in New Zealand and by 2001, Parsons explained,  he decided he’d like to make wine in the Northern Hemisphere. He saw an ad for a winemaker in Palisade, Colorado and was offered the job. By 2011 he began his journey in Palisade, Grand Junction, where The Ordinary Fellow winery is located.

Parsons said that Palisade is located four hours west of Denver. The vineyard is set at 6,200 feet in altitude at the base of the Ute Mountain, a river runs through it, the land has fertile soil and also has a unique climate – there are only 155 to 165 frost-free days per year.

The Ordinary Fellow winery, a name Parsons borrowed from an English pub he frequented with his father, is inside a former peach packing shed, the “Historic United Fruit Growers COOP” in Downtown Palisade. They are open for tastings, and Parsons does private barrel tastings for small groups.

A word or two about the beautiful labels: the outer sleeve contains all of the details required by law, as well as a silhouette of a face and a small black sticker in the back to temporarily hold it in place. Remove the sticker and the sleeve can then be removed. All that is left on the bottle is a full circular label completely covered in “pop culture references” that allow you to “peer through the mind of ordinary man.” Probably the most colorful and imaginative label you’ll ever see.

The Wines

2021 Chardonnay

100% Chardonnay, Box Bar Vineyard, two years in French oak, $34.99.

Very pale yellow color. Parsons said he had made the wine in a Chablis style. I was reminded of lemon-lime soda pop, dry Vermouth, rain and freshly washed pebbles all on the nose. The taste had that same lemon as well as grapefruit, salt air, minerality, with a medium acidity and long finish. My husband thought it was more Sauvignon Blanc-like on the palate.

2021 Riesling

100% Riesling, Box Bar Vineyard, stainless steel cool fermentation, $23.99.

Fresh and buttery, with kiwi, peach and lemon zest all in the aroma. Lots of freshly cut apple slices, medium acidity and bone dry on the palate. Parsons said this is “what Colorado Rieslings can be” and that’s a good thing as I thought the wine was de-lish! Enjoyed it with guests later that evening, over some French Brie and charcuterie, and they agreed with my assessment.

2021 Pinot Noir

100% Pinot Noir, Hawks’ Nest Vineyard, three years in French oak, $36.99.

I was surprised at the very light color of this Pinot Noir, almost like a Rose or Nouveaux Beaujolais. On the nose I felt there was a lot of red cherries, stems, earth and bark peeling from a tree. (My mother’s house had what she called a Chinese Paper Tree out front and we would peel back the bark often.) On the mouth I got notes of very light and delicate red fruit, seemed lower in alcohol than the 13.6% ABV noted in the tech sheet. Very much an easy drinker, and I chose to chill it a little bit before serving to guests later, that again, enjoyed the wine very much. Note: Parsons said he also does a Rose and Sparkling, both with his Pinot Noir. I’d very much like to try those and compare my notes.

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon

100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Box Bar Vineyard, three years in French oak, $38.99.

What a delightful surprise to have a very well done Cab from a place we rarely, if ever, have had a Cab from. It was a very dark and opaque purple color, with aromas of dark blue fruit that reached me as soon as I opened the bottle. Also got whiffs of espresso, blueberry and spice. The taste was red fruit, spicy, some tannins and well balanced. The wine had a medium finish and I would describe it on a whole as a lighter styled Cab.

https://www.theordinaryfellow.com/

https://www.visitgrandjunction.com/areas/palisade

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, Cellarmasters, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Reviewing Eco-Friendly Wines from Sicily

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The term Eco-Friendly, in regards to wine, may be new to you – as a couple of the requirements were for me. I had the opportunity to taste three Sicilian wines in this category and before I received them I learned that “To be a part of this sustainability program, wineries must abide by 10 minimum requirements such as eliminating chemical herbicides, preserving biodiversity, using eco-friendly materials in the vineyards, using energy-efficient technologies, opting for lighter bottles, etc.”

I found this all very interesting. But uppermost to me is how wines taste. See notes below regarding the SOStain Sicilia Foundation that is spearheading this program, and below that are tasting notes on the wines.

From Colangelo & Partners

Every day environmentally friendly practices become more and more expected in our modern world. We’re encouraged to do our best by swapping our plastic straws for reusable metal ones, recycling properly, ditching plastic water bottles, and even growing a green thumb to compost our waste. As we do our part to better the Earth …we must ask, what are businesses doing to hold up their end?

The SOStain Sicilia Foundation is the most glaring example of professionals coming together with the shared goal of bettering the world. The ultimate objective is to increase sustainability across the regional wine sector, pursuing environmentally friendly, socially equitable, and economically efficient development.

The Wines (My notes follow theirs, noted as from EB in italics)

Firriato, 2014 ‘Harmonium’ $25

A gorgeous Nero d’Avola, presenting a dark ruby red pour with purple hues. On the nose, it is fruit-forward with notes of rhubarb, pepper, tobacco, and nutmeg which makes this a sultry wine to indulge in. Lively tannins and impeccable softness blend together to a harmonious whole.

EB: From the tech sheet, “Handpicked, aged in French and American barriques, aged 12 months in bottle, 14.8% alcohol.” Interesting to me, before I tasted was that a good pal of mine with a wine cellar I covet, has this bottle and declared it was amazing. Second to that, getting sent an aged wine to review – this one was a 2014 vintage – is a rarity. Third, I’m a fan of the Nero d’Avola grape, as can be seen, read actually, here. Now, onto my tasting notes: A very dark purple color, opaque. The aromas were predominantly filled with spice and dark fruit starting with a spicy blackberry jam, then cocoa, cigar, oak and rich dark earth. When I tasted the wine I found it extremely balanced (due to age), the tannins had softened (due to age) and the alcohol elicited no heavy heat (possibly due to its age). The dark fruit and spice had a playfulness – meaning that at some moments I noted the spice and at others the fruit. There was also a dark chocolate component, as well as both a rich smoothness and richness. I enjoyed the wine with and without food, which is notable for an Italian wine that is almost always meant to pair with food. A great steal for $25.

Tasca Conti d’Almerita, 2020 Tenuta Regaleali ‘Guarnaccio’ $23

This wine composed of Perricone grapes is highly perfumed with elegant notes of spices and dried flowers followed by black cherry. A sip of vital freshness, fruity with a beautiful texture, and a finale of spicy notes. Its warm, soft, fresh, and savory essence is guaranteed to please. 

EB: From the tech sheet, “13% alcohol, aged in French oak barrels for about 12 months.” The wine has a very deep red color, with a garnet edge, making it very pretty for the start. On the nose I was reminded of sweet Italian black plums, crushed blackberries, rich red earth, black pepper and worn leather. On the mouth I noted a spicy mouthfeel with firm, drying tannins. The fruit was similar as in the nose – dark berries and plums, as well as tobacco, dark chocolate and peppery. I could feel the French oak influence in the way my palate dried from the tannins, making me reach for another sip. And I was grateful for the low alcohol proving something this dark and earthy didn’t need the heat of high alcohol. The finish was long and strong. I’d totally buy this wine for only $23!

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 17k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Las Vegas Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlises Pick Roadtripping with Antoine Favero to Jaxon Keys for BRANDY

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In our previous article, we mentioned that, while tasting wine with winemaker Antoine Favero at Mazzocco Sonoma, he suggested he had something special in mind for the next afternoon.

So, the next day, after our morning visit to St. Anne’s Crossing [which will be covered in a future article], Antoine picked us up at Mazzocco’s Briar Cottage in the Wilson Artisan Wineries van. The destination: Jaxon Keys Winery & Distillery in Hopland at the southern end of Mendocino County. The agenda: to taste the full lineup of Alambic brandy.

We’d visited Antoine at Jaxon Keys back in 2018 (http://www.evewine101.com/2018/12/01/perlis-picks-jaxon-keys-winery). At that time, our focus was mainly on the wines, although we did taste some brandy as well. This time, it was all about the brandy.

When the Wilsons purchased the old Jepson winery back in 2009, they not only acquired the winery, 1,200 acres of land and the historic House on the Hill, but also a large inventory of brandy and a vintage Alambic pot still that was built in Cognac, France in the 1900s. When we got to the winery, the first thing Antoine did was show us this copper still along with the barrels and barrels of brandy.

Then we walked up the looooong flight of stairs to the old House on the Hill, now restored as the Farmhouse Tasting Room. Sitting upstairs in the private tasting room on a beautiful clear day with the windows wide open to the fresh air, we could see the old French Colombard vines that produce the grapes from which the brandy is made.

Being brandy novices, Antoine gave us some insights into the process of brandy making as well as why the tulip shaped glass is ideal for “nosing” the brandy (which is why they are used by professionals), with different smells noticeable depending whether you sniff the brandy from the rim closest to you, in the middle of the glass or the far edge. Antoine explained that the renowned Hubert Germain-Robin had been heavily involved in the brandy-making process going back to the Jepson days. Now retired, while he still provides some input, Antoine took over the production responsibilities several years ago and is now expanding the line from three to a total of six brandies.

As we tasted, Antoine told us that brandy needs to be at 40% alcohol; any more would make the brandy too hot. He also explained that French Limousin oak barrels impart color and flavor.

Our tasting notes for the brandies we tasted (Scores, awards and notes from the 2022 Los Angeles Invitational Spirits Challenge are in italics – only the three brandies indicated had been released at that time.)

Rare: 5 years; straw, white flowers notes on the nose and taste. 98 points. Best of Class, Double Gold. Vanilla, pecan, nice maturity, refreshing.

Cornerstone: 7 years; caramel in color, more aromatic and flowery.

Old Stock: 10-15 years; stronger caramel taste, whiff of vanilla, mellowing, long finish. 91 points. Earthy, burning fruit, wood.

Barrel 10:  15 years; more oak and vanilla notes, lush finish, liquid sunshine.

Private Stock:  17 years; stronger vanilla and honey notes that flows on the nose and palate, start of nuttiness – macadamia, warm finish, roundness.

Signature Reserve:  17-30 years; 50 cases produced/one barrel, almond paste/marzipan sweet notes, amber/caramel color, mellow but complex at the same time, extremely long, lingering finish. 96 points. Dried citrus peel, vibrant.

All the brandies were delicious, but as we tasted from the youngest to oldest, we savored their increasing intricacies and structure. We can’t thank Antoine enough for providing us with this magical experience.   He is the consummate host – engaging, entertaining and enlightening. And remember, if a winemaker wants to take you on a road trip, go!

Jaxon Keys

www.jaxonkeys.com

10400 South Hwy 101

Hopland, CA 95449

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Discovering Moraga Bel Air

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All I knew about Moraga Bel Air wines is that they were founded in 1989 and that the vineyards are indeed in Bel Air, California. When they offered to send me one of their whites and a red, and join in on a Zoom meeting with their new winemaker Paul Warson, it was a great chance for me – and you – to discover much more.

Learning More About Moraga

Great day for a Zoom meeting – said no one ever. But this one, where we didn’t have to brace the storms in Los Angeles of late to meet in person, was well worth it. The meeting was led by Moraga Bel Air winemaker Paul Warson, who joined the winery in 2021. Here are some of the things we found:

  • Warson is a seasoned winemaker with roots at UC Davis. He has made wine in places such as Australia, Napa and the Central Coast. His longest tenure was with Foley and their Firestone property.
  • Warson feels that Moraga is best experienced by visiting the winery, the cave and with a tasting. Marketing Director Philip Cavanagh explained that reserved tastings include four of their current releases as well as tastes from their cellar, accompanied with a cheese and charcuterie selection from the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop. Each tasting runs 90 minutes to two hours, can accommodate four and upwards of 150 guests in a corporate gathering. Reservations can be made via email with Philip@MoragaBelAir.com
  • There will be a new second label coming out in the next month or so where 20% of the sales will be going to charity. The wines will be non-vintage and a made from a collection of Moraga grapes.
  • If you check out their Facebook page you may see a few posts with photos of sheep grazing in the vineyard. Though the sheep are now gone, their work completed within about 14 days, they will be back. The vineyard is now experiencing bud break.
  • Warson said that everything they need to make wine is at Moraga Bel Air. From red fermenters to the wine press to stainless steel drums and barrels. The cave itself is never above 60 degrees. “It’s a Fantasyland,” Warson said, “it’s a lot of fun and it’s easy.”

Tasting Notes (My notes follow theirs, noted as EB in italics.)

2019 White (Not stated on label: Sauvignon Blanc) 14.7 alcohol.

From the website: Golden in the glass, it begins with lush aroma of white peach, nectarine and white flowers. The palate opens with a flash of acidity followed by smooth waves of honey-dusted nectarine and seared stone fruit. The exotic fruit and mineral characteristics of our vineyard dominate the flavor profile. The wine is an atypically long-lived Sauvignon Blanc. $92

EB: A decadent Sauvignon Blanc with amazing aromas and flavors of white peach, lemon-lime soda, cantaloupe melon, Meyer lemon zest with a beautiful mouthfeel that just lingered on the palate forever. Warson said that the wine was made in a Bordeaux style, and had a generous amount of flintiness. Another reviewer on the Zoom call noticed a salinity. I went back in for another whiff and it did remind me of an ocean breeze. The property, Warson said, is four miles from the Santa Monica Bay.

2017 Red (Not stated on label: Cabernet Sauvignon) 14.7 alcohol.

From the website: There is a unique and identifiable Moraga signature of soft tannins, supple texture, pure black Cabernet fruit, currant and tobacco. This vintage shows black cherry, roasted coffee and a hint of caramel on the ripe nose. Polished tannins and fresh acidity deliver flavors of blackberry jam, truffle, vanilla, and caramel. $140

EB: This wine, a Bordeaux blend that included 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 1.5% Petit Verdot and 1.5% Cabernet Franc, blew my socks off. It was BIG with notes of red to blue fruit, black peppercorns, bark, smoke, and chocolate with dried cherry bits. Big fruit with equally big tannins allowed for an extremely long finish. The wine, after some time in new French oak, had spent 26 months in the bottle before its release. Warson plans to “dial it back” but I was plenty happy with how this red presented.

https://www.moragabelair.com/

https://www.instagram.com/moragabelair/

https://www.facebook.com/MoragaBelAir?ref=br_rs

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 17k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Las Vegas Proof Awards, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.