Eve's Wine 101

Perlises Pick: Jeff Cohn Cellars

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We’ve tasted wines from Jeff Cohn Cellars many times, but always at events, where the wines were poured by Jeff or his wife, Alexandra. We had never had an opportunity to sit down and taste through the lineup with Jeff and hear the full story.

We finally were able meet with Jeff at their recently opened tasting room in Healdsburg. You can read all about Jeff Cohn Cellars on the website here www.jeffcohncellars.com/about-our-story but ultimately, it turns out that their story is a multi-faceted love story.

First and foremost, the love story of Jeff Cohn Cellars is about Alexandra and Jeff and their family. They met while they were both working at the Hyatt Regency Crystal City in Virginia – Jeff was F&B Cost Controller and Alexandra was an accounting trainee. Coincidentally, they had both also attended Florida International University. Alexandra’s career path took her back to Florida and Jeff joined her there, working on cruise ships for two years. But being in the hospitality industry often means being bitten by the wine bug and eventually, they moved to California. Jeff had already worked as an intern at Boordy Vineyards in Maryland but during the process of obtaining his Master’s in Agricultural Chemistry at Cal State Fresno, he discovered French techniques as well as the wines of the Northern and Southern Rhone plus Zinfandel. The rest was history.

It is also apparent the love that Jeff has for his colleagues and mentors, both former and current, most notably the late Kent Rosenblum. Jeff went to work for Kent at Rosenblum Cellars after graduating from CSUF, moving up the line to eventually become winemaker and then vice president of winemaking and production. He left in 2006 to focus on Jeff Cohn Cellars [then called JC Cellars] which he had founded in 1996, but not before making his permanent mark on the wine world by having Rosenblum’s 2003 Rockpile Road Zinfandel hit #3 on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list.

Finally, and certainly not least, is Jeff’s love of wine grapes, particularly, as mentioned above, Rhones and Zins.

So yes, we are finally getting to what we tasted –

2017 Iris Sparkling Brut Rose – named after Jeff’s beloved mother, this delicious bubbly is a blend of 60% Grenache (Rossi Ranch), 20% Syrah (Rockpile) and 20% Mourvedre (Rossi Ranch). Modeled after the wines from the France’s Tavel region, Karen picked up notes of Persimmon.

2018 Rossi Ranch GSM – a classic blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, this wine had a long finish, with sausage spices notes.

2018 Maggie’s Vineyard – 100% Zinfandel from vines that are over 120 years old         . Many textures and layers on this wine that Jeff dedicated to his friend Kent [see above].

2017 Sweetwater Springs – 100% Petite Sirah. Dark, ruby red, purple in color, big and balanced.

2017 Domain Des Chirats -100% Rockpile Syrah – A joint project with Yves Cuilleron, Northern Rhone winemaker from Chavanay, France (half of this wine’s production is exported to France). Big luscious berry notes; one of the finest Syrahs we’ve tasted.

2016 Stagecoach Marsanne – 85% Marsanne, 15% Roussanne. The last wine we tasted was a white. We asked Jeff why other wineries pour their whites first and he said “because they are doing it wrong.” Seriously though, white wines poured at the beginning of a tasting are often forgotten by the end. We wouldn’t have forgotten this one though no matter where in the tasting it was poured. A wonderful palate brightener with delicious tropical fruits to wake up the taste buds. Crisp citrus notes and a big mouth feel. This Napa Valley vineyard was bought by Gallo a few years ago so we are not sure what the future holds for these varietals there.

Jeff Cohn makes more wines in addition to the ones we tasted.  He has many more Rhones and single vineyard Zins sourced from Sonoma, Napa and the central coast. They are definitely worth a stop when you are in Healdsburg or in the Santa Rosa area or interested in making an online purchase.

We expect you’ll love them as much as we did.

Jeff Cohn Cellars

34 North St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

www.jeffcohncellars.com

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Reviewing the book, Malbec Mon Amour, by Laura Catena and Alejandro Vigil

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Recently offered a book written by a vintner I’ve met and admired for a long time, from a country I haven’t visited, and I jumped on it. Filling in the blanks, I’m sharing details from the publisher, my review of the book and their latest vintage below.

From the Publisher

I wanted to introduce you to a whimsical, yet informative book that has been in the works for over ten years, written by Laura Catena and Bodega Catena Zapata’s oenologist Alejandro Vigil.

Malbec mon amour tells the story of Malbec, a story of near extinction, rebirth and in a joyful end, the story of how a plant has elevated the lives of millions of people for over 2,000 years. Laura and Alejandro had the vision of a book that would reflect the fun and inspiration that Alejandro and Laura experienced in their daily rides throughout the vineyards of Mendoza.  Why “mon amour”? Well, Alejandro Vigil has Malbec tattooed on his arm, and Laura’s family’s journey from Italy to Argentina began 120 years ago with a plant of Malbec.

Alejandro and Laura see the world of wine, its ancient history, its terroir, its people, its soils and climate in very romantic and artistic terms. But at the same time, they are both scientists. This illustrated book combines the art and science of wine in a way that has never been done before. It tells the story of how the Malbec variety went from fame to near-extinction and back, and why Malbec is so much more than a wine variety. It is a wine that tells the history of humanity and the journey of immigrants and plants across continents.

The book is currently available on Amazon in North America, Central America, Latin America, and Europe.

Book Review

What a gorgeous book, from the front cover through to the pages, inviting me to really want to get into it and into it I did! As well as the sample of their 2019 Malbec! Get your own book to see the pages and what’s inside, these are my takeaways:

  • “According to oral tradition, the Malbec grape expanded from its native Cahors to Bordeaux in the 18th century, introduced by a Hungarian winemaker called Malbeck or Malbek. In Bordeaux, producers used it to lend more color to their claret.”
  • Malbec may have been known as “the black wine” due to harvesting at night or the color that stained people’s teeth and tongue.
  • At one time England’s Henry III personally protected Cahors Malbec so that Bordeaux officials could not limit any sales or its transportation. And King Francis I of France liked Malbec so much that it was known as the King’s Plant, Plante du Roi.
  • One of our authors, Laura Catena, visited Cahors as a “pilgrimage to the original home of Malbec” studying the history and meeting with experts.
  • Malbec was just behind Cabernet Sauvignon, as the second most important variety, during the 1855 classification in Bordeaux. The grape was first planted in Argentina in 1853, from vines from Bordeaux, and resulted in a low yield and high quality wine.
  • When Phylloxera “wiped Malbec off the map” in Bordeaux it was replaced with Merlot. However, at the same time, Malbec was still doing well in Argentina.
  • Manual wine presses were used until the 1950s, some wineries still use this method for “uva francesca” aka the French grape known as Malbec.
  • Mendoza, Argentina, is the fifth largest wine producer in the world with 345,000 acres under vine, from hundreds of wineries. Many export their wines worldwide.
  • By the end of the 1970s there had been a financial crisis that changed grape production, Malbec was removed for higher-yielding varietals and “most Argentine wines were characterized by somewhat oxidized aromas, a soft mouthfeel, low aromatic intensity and little varietal typicity.”
  • In 1984 winemaker Nicolas Catena Zapata had just returned from a tour of Napa, and felt that if Napa could compete with the French (Judgement of Paris) so could Argentina. He planted Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, updated his winemaking practices and hired Paul Hobbs, a well-known and respected consultant from California.
  • “Catena Zapata has the largest selection of Malbec plants in the world.” The Catena Institute, where Alejandro Vigil works as a soil specialist, evaluates the soil’s “behavior with every vintage.” There is a lot of information on how soil effects terroir – and aromas in the finished product.
  • Mendoza is a desert, with an average of eight inches of rain per year, and water is 260 to 660 underground. The area requires drip irrigation, and this is generally used prior to bud break.
  • The book includes the Winkler Scale of the micro-climates of Mendoza, the Winkler Index charting temperature, the history of the Catena Institute, detailed descriptions of the Malbec vineyards in Mendoza, Uco Valley and other regions, as well as dozens of illustrations, photographs and maps.

Tasting 2019 Catena Malbec

A regal dark purple color, and a nose full of fresh lush fruit – juicy blackberry, crushed plums, blueberry – followed by hints of tri-color peppercorns, bark, moss and very dark sweetened chocolate. The taste reminded me of a bowl of fresh cut fruit – the same as on the nose – as well as layers of dark spices and drying tannins for a lingering finish. I didn’t have my sample with any food, and I didn’t need to. Well done.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Tasting Alavida Malbec, a USDA-Certified Organic + Kosher Wine

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Have you ever had a Kosher wine? That’s also organic? And a Malbec from Argentina? I’ve had all of these – but not all in the same wine. So when I was offered this unique wine to try I jumped on it! I will share my tasting notes at the end of this article, but first let me share some of the details on this “dual status” wine with some sections I’ve put in bold I found interesting and want you to take notice of:

The debut 2021 vintage of Alavida Malbec (SRP $19), new from Origins Organic Import, is Argentina’s first USDA-certified organic and kosher wine. Alavida is one of few wines worldwide to achieve this unusual dual status. Alavida is also vegan, gluten-fee, and Ecocert-approved…

 The Alavida name is a riff on “A la vida!” Spanish for “To life!” itself a riff on the traditional Hebrew toast “L’chaim!” Origins Organic is owned by husband-and-wife team Labid al Ameri and Anne Bousquet. “Argentina is a nation rich in diversity, and our own multi-cultural family has been making certified organic wines in Argentina since 1997,” al Ameri observes.

 Of necessity, fruit for Alavida must be of exceptional quality, with good concentration, and balance of acidity (a natural preservative). Why? Because USDA regulations prohibit the addition of sulfites (SO2) in winemaking. Sulfites are commonly used as a form of preservative or to help conceal natural flaws. 

 The new wine hails from high-altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley, an area identified with a growing number of the Mendoza region’s finest quality wines. Grapes grow at 4,000+ feet in the Andes foothills, where daily temperature swings of up to 60° F deliver more sugar (hot days) and more acid (cold nights). By omitting SO2, characteristics associated with the Uco Valley’s high-altitude, cool-climate terroir are heightened and enhanced. Purity of fruit, aroma, flavors, and freshness become even more apparent.

 The winemaking process for Alavida is almost identical to that used in making a non-kosher wine, with two exceptions. Ingredients such as yeast must be kosher, and the wine physically made by a Sabbath-observant Jewish team under the supervision of a rabbi. For Alavida that means double the number of people involved: a Jewish team member to handle grapes and wine, paired with a home team member standing alongside and directing. For Alavida, that entailed five duos! Winemaker Rodrigo Serrano gave the work orders; his Jewish counterparts executed them.

 Once the truck filled with grapes arrived at the winery, the Jewish team took the grapes from the truck, used the forklift, pressed the on/off button at the sorting table, and so on. Though the visiting team members were experienced winemakers, they had never worked at this quality level. At the end of each day, everything was locked by the rabbi. If winemaker Serrano wanted to take a sample, he could not do so. Indeed, if a non-Jewish person were to stumble and accidentally touch a tank, the wine is no longer kosher – representing a potential loss of 4,700 liters of wine! At the end of the process, the rabbi pronounced Alavida the best kosher wine he had ever tasted!

Alavida Kosher Malbec 2021 — Technical Data

100% Malbec

Alcohol: 14.5%

Acidity/pH: 5.77/3.68

Residual Sugar: 1.52

Alavida Kosher Malbec from Origins Organic Imports / SRP $19

Now available DC, DE, CA, CT, FL, IL, MD, ME, NJ, VT, and WA

Plus NY and OR, effective April 1.

Eve’s Tasting Notes

Starting off with a deep burgundy to purple in color, completely opaque, with just a slightly lighter edge that sparkles, inviting. On the nose I experienced aromas of plum, raspberry, dark chocolate, grilled mushroom, green peppercorn, earth, ash and coffee. The taste reminded me of dried red fruit, as well as ripe strawberry and red currant, bright and lively, with gripping tannins, no annoying acidity, a long finish and well balanced. Very interesting indeed. If I saw this in a shop I would buy it, a steal for $19.

 About Origins Organic Imports: Miami-based Origins Organic Imports is owned and run by husband-and-wife team Labid Ameri and Anne Bousquet, also the owners of Argentina’s leading producer and exporter of certified-organic wines. With Origins Organic, Ameri and Bousquet are dedicated to introducing U.S. consumers to a growing roster of well-priced, high-quality certified-organic offerings from around the world, in addition to those from their own estate.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Sunset Magazine Partners with Wine Access to Launch the Sunset Wine Club

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NAPA, CALIF. (PRWEB) – Wine Access, the premier online destination for expertly curated wines, has partnered with Sunset Magazine, the premier resource for achieving the ultimate Western lifestyle, to launch the Sunset Wine Club. The Sunset Wine Club will provide members with wines that represent the poetry and history of California, Oregon and Washington, each hand-selected to perfectly pair with recipes from Sunset Magazine’s latest issue, which hit newsstands February 1.

“The Sunset Wine Club is aligned with our mission to connect people and place through wine through a direct integration with the renowned content and recipes Sunset Magazine produces,” explains Wine Access CXO AJ Resnick. “Every wine is hand-selected to shine alongside each issue’s recipes, and features exclusive tasting notes and guided virtual tastings with our Chief Wine Officer Vanessa Conlin, MW and Sunset Magazine Editor-in-Chief Hugh Garvey.”

“The Sunset Wine Club is the culmination of a longtime dream of ours,” states Sunset Magazine Editor-in-Chief Hugh Garvey. “We seek out the best of the West to share with our readers and we are excited to partner with an expert retailer like Wine Access, who understands both our mission and our audience. These wines have been expertly curated to amplify our regionally authentic, original recipes, so with every bottle you open and sip you take, you are not only receiving a wine shipment, but partaking firsthand in the story of the wine in the West.”

The Sunset Wine Club includes six bottles of wine which will be delivered four times a year. Each shipment is priced at $120 (shipping included) and corresponds with the Sunset Magazine “Perfect Pairing” sidebar in each issue. For more information, please visit http://www.wineaccess.com/sunset.

About Wine Access
Founded in 1996, Wine Access is the leading online direct-to-consumer wine platform offering the world’s most coveted wines. As one of the earliest adopters of ecommerce and DTC offerings in the digital wine space, Wine Access curates high quality wines from every wine region around the globe, creating more accessible ways to enjoy wine that extend beyond the bottle. Wine Access’ Master of Wine, Master Sommelier, and team of industry experts taste over 20,000 wines a year, offering only those that exceed the expectations defined by their prices. Through Wine Access’ network of family-owned, legendary winemakers, and coveted marquees, customers have access to an inspiring curation of unique and often unattainable wines. To build a deeper understanding and connection to each bottle, every shipment includes original tasting notes, flavor profiles, pairing recommendations, and compelling original stories that capture the authentic personality, passion, and philosophy of the producer. Wine Access also offers a Wine Club membership that unlocks access to rare and highly coveted wine selections from every major wine-growing region around the globe four times a year. In 2021, Wine Access was named the official wine provider of the MICHELIN Guide. To find out more, visit https://www.wineaccess.com/.

Vinos Zanzonico 2020 Reserva Chardonnay and 2019 Reserva Syrah!

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If you’ve been following my reviews for any length of time you know that I started sharing my wine notes well over ten years ago, about the same time I first met winemaker Gerard Zanzonico at Napa’s Del Dotto. We’ve shared many wonderful wines of Gerard’s over the years, and when he finally retired to Baja California, and began making wines there, I knew I would (virtually for now) follow him there.

To see any past reviews just do a Google search of Zanzonico + Bushman and there will be plenty. Proud of my longstanding relationship with one of the finest winemakers I’ve had the pleasure to know, I’m happy to share my the latest: reviews of Gerard’s new 2020 Reserva Chardonnay and 2019 Reserva Syrah from Baja.

Regards to my notes: whenever possible I don’t look at tasting notes that are provided by a winemaker or winery staff. Then, for fun, I look at them afterward to see if they are similar. I did that here, and any similarities in my notes are in bold.

2020 Reserva Chardonnay

13.7% alcohol

EB: Dark gold in color with a sparkly edge, quite welcoming. On the nose I detected fleshy yellow peach, honeydew and cantaloupe melon, delicate white flower and pebbles washed with the sea. Erupting flavors tingled my palate: dried apple, melon again, lemon zest, creamy salty cheese, butter…and the wine continued to tingle my tongue for a long lasting finish. And the wine made me crave a cheese plate. 92 Eve points.

From Winemaker Gerard Zanzonico

2020 Chardonnay -100% varietal, grown in the San Vicente Valley, 85 cases produced. 12 months in French Oak, 25% new. Brilliant color, pineapple aromas with hints of tropical fruits. Balanced finish.

2019 Reserva Syrah

13.9% alcohol

EB: Plum jam, stewed dark fruit, dark chocolate, grilled mushroom, black peppercorn, smoldering rich tobacco, espresso and freshly turned earth on the nose followed by flavors of dried blue to black fruit, a lively and spicy palate, chocolate-covered espresso beans, a full mouthfeel and gripping tannins giving way to a big crescendo of a finish. 95+ Eve Points.

From Winemaker Gerard Zanzonico

2019 Syrah – 100% varietal, grown in the La Grulla Valley,141 cases produced. Mature fruit, plum and chocolate aromas…a hint of mushroom. Smooth tannins with a balanced finish.

These wines are available at LMA Wines and Vintage wines of San Diego

https://www.lmawines.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Reviewing the 2019 Château du Moulin-à-Vent Beaujolais

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Given the opportunity to taste, learn and review a Beaujolais wine from Moulin a Vent and I snatched at it.

This would be their 2019 vintage, shared by owner/director Edouard Parinet and his father Jean-Jacques who co-runs the winery.

From the 2019 Château du Moulin-à-Vent Vintage Report

Several factors made this vintage quite unique … the harvest came very late, it was the sunniest year since 1990, and it was also the lowest yielding year since 2009. This flagship wine is produced from selections of the harvest from three top terroirs of Moulin-à-Vent, all located near the fifteenth century windmill at the heart of the Moulin-à-Vent appellation.

More on this Vintage:

  • 1,784 hours of sun versus 1,459 hours in average.
  • Sunniest year since 1990.
  • An early morning frost on April 4 affected 40% of the vineyard.
  • The wine was a late vintage, harvest started on September 11 an ended on September 18.
  • 80 pickers, all by hand, 35% whole cluster.
  • Juices are concentrated due to smaller berries.
  • Frost and heatwaves gave them the lowest yield in the past 19 years.
  • Rainfall in August allowed for maintained acidity levels.
  • Wine should be balanced, full-bodied, silky, aromatic and fine.
  • Fermentation ran between 15 and 30 days with the average being 20 to 25 for the domain.
  • Harvest Order by terroir : La Rochelle, Les Vérillats, Les Caves (‘Grands Savarins’), Les Thorins, Champ de Cour, Clos de Londres, Moulin-à-Vent.

In General:

  • Moulin-à-Vent is one the 10 Crus in Beaujolais, and one of the first AOCs.
  • Moulin-à-Vent means windmill, and wind has an important impact on the fruit.
  • There is age-ability to these wines, 20-30 years according to Parinet.

Château du Moulin-à-Vent Notes

Beaujolais region, Gamay grape

13% alcohol

EB Tasting Notes: Started with noticing a dark purple color, slightly brown on the edge indicative of age – an older wine – which surprised me for a 2019 so it may more be due to it being a “late vintage” compared to other years. On the nose I got aromas of ripe blueberries, lots of both fresh and dried red berries, sweet charred steak and freshly turned earth. The taste reminded me of a smooth and silky raspberry jam, plums, with a lively acidity and very tingly long finish. Very pleasant without food before dinner.

From Beaujolias.com: Why is Moulin a Vent referred to as the king of Beaujolais?

It used to be called the Romanèche-Thorins appellation. Strangely enough, only after the appellation name changed did it become one of the few Beaujolais wines not named after a specific commune. It is the strength and power emanating from the old windmill overlooking the vineyards that earned the appellation its name.

Château du Moulin-à-Vent

Wine Spectator Video with Director Edouard Parinet

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Tasting Sustainable Wines From Herdade do Esporão

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It’s been a while since I’ve had the opportunity to taste and study wines from Portugal so I was very interested in sampling four that I‘d never had before – two whites and two reds from Herdade do Esporão – and learning all about them. Here is an excerpt from the invitation:

Esporão Group Chairman João Roquette, one of the most influential people in the Portuguese wine industry today, will brief us on Esporao Group, his vision for the future and his take on the Portuguese wine industry. Herdade do Esporão lead winemaker, Sandra Alves, will talk about the estate and taste through the wines.

What I Learned

Both Roquette and Alves shared the efforts that the winery has made in creating holistic, sustainable and organic vineyards via composting, natural pest control, no chemicals in the farming, beneficial insects, animal grazing and soil maintenance. They spent twelve years educating themselves and visiting other wineries as they worked on their own sustainable program, and are now 100% organic.

Alves has 20 years of experience with Esporão. And Roquette’s family has owned the winery for two generations. Their workers are all part of the team, sharing in the work and benefits.

Their products, including olive oil and a craft brewery, express their agricultural place. Eighty percent of their products were originally sold in Portugal, now that percentage has gone down to thirty-five with the balance being sold internationally.

They do purchase some grapes beyond their estate for entry-level wine.And they produce 16 billion bottles per year, though their country is not large like Spain or France, more the size of Holland.

The Wines (Abbreviated technical sheet information, and finding some of the same tasting notes, are all in italics)

Esporão Colheita White 2020 / SRP $18

Concept: Wine produced solely from grapes grown at Herdade do Esporão, applying organic farming methods. Expresses the typical features of this vintage, diversity of the soil where the vines are planted, as well as the character and identity of the selected varieties.

Grape Varieties: Antão Vaz, Viosinho, Alvarinho and others. 13.5% alcohol

EB Notes: Golden Delicious yellow apple, white flower, lemon zest and green tea on the nose with flavors that were fresh and zesty, lemon, grapefruit and minerals with a long finish.

Esporão Reserva White 2020 / SRP $20

Concept: A classic wine obtained exclusively from our organic grapes. The diversity of Herdade do Esporão, together with the different characteristics of the grape varieties, the soils, the maturity of the vines and the character of those who make this wine consistently over the years, results in a rich, intense but always harmonious wine.

Grape Varieties: Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and others. 13.5% alcohol.

Awards from Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. 

EB Notes: Aromas of bruised fruit, incense and a surprise of mint followed by a mouth that reminded me of an older wine though it was young, balanced fruit, flint, smoke, muted but interesting.

Esporão Colheita Red 2018 / SRP $18

Concept: Wine with sense of place, intense, direct, and vibrant. Expresses the typical features of the vintage year, diversity of the soil where the vines are planted, as well as the character and identity of the selected varieties.

Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet. 14% alcohol.

Awards from Wine Spectator.

EB Notes: Hello LEATHER on the nose, like a well-worn saddle! That blew off somewhat but still lingered with the addition of sweat, tree bark and dark fruit. On the palate I noted dry fruit, that same smoke, oak, Espresso and tannins.

Esporão Reserva Red 2018 / SRP $25

Concept: The first wine made by Esporão in 1985. Obtained from grapes grown at Herdade do Esporão, it shows the consistency and rich character typical of the best Alentejo wines.

Label illustrated by Anne Geene.

Grape Varieties: Aragonez, Trincadeira, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet. 14.5% alcohol.

High scores from Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast.

EB Notes: Earthy, dark fruit, velvety, fennel, green peppercorn, spice rack – very aromatic aromas. The taste had the same spicy qualities as well as a sweetness that counterbalanced all of the dark berry flavors, very long finish.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlises Pick: Monochrome

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After months of no winery visits, we finally got out and about. But, something about us had changed. While we still love red wine A LOT, we have been drinking mostly whites during our stay at home and espousing our newfound “healthier diet and lighter wine to go with it” lifestyle to anyone who will listen.

It was now time to put our money where are our mouths are.

Meet Monochrome.

We first tasted Monochrome at the 2018 Garagiste Festival in Santa Monica. At that time, Michael wrote: I’m just going to say it: “It takes balls to make only white wine in red wine country. Since I was focusing primarily on reds I almost skipped it. Fortunately, Karen insisted I try the wines.

As usual…um, always…she was right. Especially loved the 2016 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Marsanne as well as the 2016 blend of Marsanne and Chardonnay. They are pouring in Paso’s Tin City now and I highly recommend you check them out. We intend to.”

Three years later [!], we finally did.

If there was any doubt, Michael comments above were meant as a compliment, not an insult. Paso Robles is known for its big red wines and many (but certainly not all) of the white wines have the reputation of being viewed as an afterthought for that member of a tasting group that just “doesn’t like reds.”

Dave McGee is changing that, one wine-drinker at a time. He founded Monochrome in 2016 after a rich and varied career in industries such as radar design, stealth technology and neuroradiology. He completed the online UC Davis winemaking program and helped with the winemaking at Villa Creek and Alta Colina before making the jump to starting his winery, focusing entirely on white wine.

Taking a contrarian approach to the rest of the region, Dave and consulting winemaker Riley Hubbard focus on making only “white wines with depth, layers and complexity…” Sourcing grapes from Santa Barbara County on the south to Santa Cruz on the north (the three-hour-by-truck rule), they break each variety into small batches and use different fermentation and aging techniques for each, resulting in wines that really live up to the expression of the whole being greater than the sum of the parts.

Some notes on the wines we tasted:

2019 “Neither Here Nor There” is a blend of 56% Chenin Blanc from Jurassic Park Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley and 44% Sauvignon Blanc from the McGinley Vineyard in Happy Canyon. We picked up lemon notes and long finish. This wine has a really solid backbone.

2018 “Analog In A Digital Age” is 74% Marsanne from Camp 4 Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, 17% Chenin Blanc from G2 Vineyard in the Willow Creek district of Paso Robles and 9% Viognier from Shokrian Vineyard in Santa Barbara County. The wine spent nine months in amphora. There was a really nice minerality on the finish.

2018 “Sense Of Out Of Place” – this blend of 53% Sauvignon Blanc from McGinley Vineyard and 47% Chardonnay from Donnachadh Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills has a medium to long finish and pretty citrus/tangerine notes on the nose.

2018 “Wall Of Sound” is 68% Roussanne from Zaca Mesa Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley and 32% Viognier from Shokrian Vineyard. This is a very rich classic Rhone blend.

2017 “Blasphemy” is an unusual blend of 80% Chardonnay from Donnachadh Vineyard and 20% Chenin Blanc from Jurassic Park Vineyard. It has a rich golden corn color, and is bright and rich, with a perceived sweetness [as it is 100% dry].

2019 “X-3” – the blend is 49% Roussanne from Zaca Mesa Vineyard, 37% Viognier from Plum Orchard Tree Lane Vineyard in Paso’s Templeton Gap and 14% Grenache Blanc from the G2 Vineyard. Some of this classic Rhone blend goes through the “death and resurrection” method wherein the juice is hyper oxidized and then allowed to come back to life. The wine has a very full mouth feel with citrus lemon notes and a medium to long finish

2020 “Barrel Distortion” – 94% Albarino from Plum Orchard Lane Vineyard, 6% Gewurtzraminer from Paraiso Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. Very bright with smooth buttery notes.

You may have noticed an overriding theme here. These are serious, complex wines. A lot of thought and care went into making them and the approach to drinking them should follow suit. Monochrome is raising the bar for what white wines can be. Check them out in Paso Robles’s Tin City.

Monochrome

www.monochromewines.com

3075 Blue Rock Road, Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael and Karen Perlis have been pursuing their passion for wine for more than 30 years. They have had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show them the way and after a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as they possibly could, they had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Michael and Karen do their best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers.

Tasting Six Valdobbiadene Prosecco!

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Who likes sparkling wine? The ultimate wine for celebration, and celebrated as a wine that can go with any food, when I was offered six bottles of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco (the Glera grape) Superiore D.O.C.G. – a very affordable and reasonably low-alcohol sparkling wine from Italy – I said yes! This is how it went:

  1. Col Del Forno

My notes: Poured into a Champagne flute and I see nothing but bubbles racing to the top for a few minutes. Always exciting. Noted a color of pale hay. Aromas of toasted biscuit crackers, white peach, grapefruit, lemon-lime, and a nice hefty slice of banana cream pie. On the mouth it was all fresh bright citrus fruit, unsalted butter, fine mineral water, limeade and pink grapefruit. A shame to waste in a cocktail, in my opinion, I enjoyed this sipper before dinner quite well.

From Andreola.eu: Col Del Forno is a Valdobbiadene DOCG with exclusive characteristics drawn from soil with layers of clay, sand, pebbles and conglomerates formed by Karst phenomena over 100,000 years ago, prior to the last ice age. 100% Glera grapes.

  1. Canevel Brut

My Notes: Also poured into a Champagne flute and I noted a bit larger bubbles and less of them than the Col Del Frono – nothing wrong with that, just an observation – and a pale gold color. Aromas that reminded me of white flowers, cheddar cheese, wet pebbles, white peach, fresh yellow corn, talcum powder and kiwi. The taste made me think of carbonated lemon soda, fruit cocktail, cling peaches with a fresh and delicate finish that just made me want to have more.

From Canevel.it: Sparkling wine with a lively mousse and fresh aromas of fruit and flowers. Delicate but firm on the palate with good acidity and long-lasting aromas that are reminiscent of the nose. 100% Glera grapes, 11% alcohol.

  1. Casa Farive Extra Dry

My notes: This time I used a wine glass, which is sometimes thought better to evaluate aroma and flavor over a Champagne flute. (The bubbles however can’t get as “excited” running up the wider glass.) Also of note is the bottle shape, as you can see in the photos it is shorter and wider, which would make it hard to cellar but Proseccos don’t need to be aged in my opinion. Now, onto the aromas, this time I got green apple, lemon zest, fresh honeydew melon, a light cream and ocean mist. Going in for a taste and I was rewarded with a lively mouthfeel of the freshest and juiciest of chilled fruits, a bit sweeter than the first two. bracing but mild acidity and a pat of butter on the finish. Another great aperitif to enjoy before dinner.

From Cantinevedova.com: This Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG wine, made exclusively from Glera grapes, is perfect to cheer up your aperitifs, with its fresh, soft taste, on a savory and harmonious finish. 11% alcohol.

  1. Col Del Lupo Dry – Deligo

My Notes: Back to a regular wine glass I noticed both small and larger bubbles working their way to the top, not as many and over quickly, but that may be due to the vessel I chose. Dried apple slices, pineapple, cream, buttered toast, some salinity and vanilla bean on the nose; and bruised fruit, apples, pears in syrup, sweet pink grapefruit and a little of that salinity I found on the nose all on the mouth. Interesting differences – other than the salinity – between the aroma and flavors made this one something to linger over.

From Coldellupo.it: “Dry” sparkling wine produced using the Martinotti method. 100% Glera, high hill vineyards between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Organically farmed. 11.5% Alcohol.

  1. Graziano Merotto Brut

My Notes: This one I drank with a friend, hers in a Pinot Glass (as she would soon switch over to her favorite red) and mine in a Bordeaux glass. She knew I was taking notes at her first sip commented, “Very bubbly, it tickled me” that I just had to share. From me I found it very pale in color, between light and gold hay. Aromas wafted up from my glass included kiwi, vanilla milkshake, cheddar cheez-it crackers and my friend noted yeast. While we tasted, alongside prosciutto wrapped mozzarella cheese, I noted red Delicious apple, green stems, malted milk and a medium acidity. While this one was a Brut, and the others dry or extra dry, it was quite sweet.

From Merotto.it: Production area: Col San Martino, 100% Glera, 11.5% alcohol.

  1. La Farra Extra Dry

My notes: Observed just oodles of fast moving tiny bubbles racing in my Champagne glass. The color was close to a pale gold with notes of a sweet powdery perfume, caramel apple, crisp sea air and a little bit of orange slices on the nose. This was my last Prosecco to review so I lingered over the tasting and found fresh tart berry fruit, pineapple chunks, lime soda and a long finish. Wholly enjoyable.

From Lafarra.it: From a “Cru” of grapes located on the hills of Farra di Soligo. Harvest is by hand, stainless steel vats, Charmat method.

About
Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G., is the flagship wine of the Veneto region in Italy, and it is most representative of the high elevation winegrowing area, having always been synonymous with the start of the meal as an aperitif, and now foodies are discovering its versatility throughout the meal.

While Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G. wines tend to be priced slightly higher than traditional Prosecco, the wines are still immensely affordable given the quality, making them desirable for a range of consumers.  Their versatility and lower alcohol by volume are also in keeping with today’s trends towards lighter alcohol and more diverse cuisines being enjoyed at the American table.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Eve Finds Perfect Taste Balance with this Perfect Pairing: Piave DOP Cheese and Spumante Garda DOC

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Well this was a new one: Being offered a selection of Italian sparkling and still wines, the cheeses to pair them with and all coming from the same part of Italy! Not something I get delivered every day so I said yes. Below I’m sharing the invitation, my tasting notes and further information:

Photo: Ed Bushman

Fall is here, and everyone is ready for a new tasty experience: Europe’s Perfect Pairing is here to be your next favorite pairing partner. If you are interested in tasting the perfect pairing of Garda sparkling wine and Piave cheese, I would be happy to send you samples… (of) convenient, delicious, and authentic northern Italian products for your Autumn gatherings.

For the Tasting

Use your next dining occasion to explore some of these styles, laying out a spread of delicious Piave cheeses. Taste the fresh and mild flavors of subtle Mezzano D.O.P. (61/180 days) and rich Piave Stravecchio (aged more than 12 months), the bright and vibrant Garda Spumante DOC will cleanse their palates between bites. Removing Piave cheese from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving, will allow for it to be at the perfect temperature to enjoy. 

Garda Spumante DOC wines are just as delicious as easy to drink as well; simply pop the cork, pour, and enjoy. The elegant, refreshing flavors perfectly complement the richness and intensity of your Piave DOP cheese board, and vibrant, fun-loving bubbles add just the right touch to a casual or festive gathering.

My Notes on the Garda Wines, Cheeses and Pairing

Collezione Riondo Brut NV: Pretty sea glass green glass bottle is very eye-catching, the wine itself is a very pale gold with a slight silvery-green sparkle on the edge. Aromas that wafted up through the tiny bubbles included candied pears, French baguette, apple pie, talcum powder and wet sand from a freshwater beach. In the mouth I got lively green apple, honey, lemon and sugary limeade.

Pjafoc Vino Spumante Extra Dry White: Palest yellow of all in color, with tiny bubbles hanging onto the edge of my glass for a very long time. Aromas reminded me of creamy butter, fresh cut cucumber for crudité, white peach, biscuit and overturned dry earth. For the taste I noted that lemon-lime again, pineapple, freshly cut apple slices and a general sense of coolness. A wine to enjoy outdoors on a hot day. The wine had a creaminess as well as a medium acidity, and a very long length on the palate.

2020 Azienda Agricola Prendina Pinot Grigio: The color was a soft yellow with some sparkle, then I noted bruised apple, dust, stone fruit, dry earth and freshly cut pears on the nose. Tasting the wine I was reminded of fruit cocktail in juice, just peeled orange, tangerine, lime zest and lingering citrus fruits.

2020 Cantina Colli Morenici Chardonnay: Light yellow in color, then on the nose there was some sweet Meyer lemon, unsalted butter, grapefruit and ash followed by bright flavors of yellow apple, lemon-lime soda, a nice round mouthfeel, mild acidity and medium finish. I really liked the freshness on this one.

Mezzano D.O.P. (61/180 days) described as fresh and mild.

With the Collezione Riondo Brut NV: Taking a sip of the Riondo first, then taking a bite of the cheese, it was indeed mild, but then rinsing the wine over the cheese, the cheese grew much sharper, nuttier and creamier for me in the mouth, which made the pairing interesting and elevated the pairing. (Note: I’ve had bubbles and cheese before. I either wasn’t paying attention – which I now will do – or this is specific to these cheeses and these sparkling wines!)

With the Pjafoc Vino Spumante Extra Dry White: Doing just as I did above, rinsing the wine over the cheese, I found the pairing similar, maybe not as sharp but certainly sharper with the wine than alone. And again, the pairing elevated the whole experience.

Piave Stravecchio (aged more than 12 months) described as bright and vibrant

With the Collezione Riondo Brut NV: Even though a younger cheese it had a bit more layers on the palate – nutty, salty, briny – then with the wine I noted salt was really heightened, which was nice with the bubbly wine.

With the Pjafoc Vino Spumante Extra Dry White: The saltiness and nuttiness came out in the cheese with the wine, again, as it did with the Riondo. As an observation, these are both hard cheeses, so when you roll the wine over the cheese it also softens it. Again, making the experience something to linger over.

More

After spending too much time cooped up indoors, everyone is ready to take their gatherings and meals to a new tasty level, and Europe’s Perfect Pairing is just begging to be your next favorite pairing partner. Hailing from beautiful northern Italy, Piave DOP cheese and Spumante Garda DOC wines share distinctive origins, deep history, and authentic production techniques—and they are the perfect palate complements for one another. Simple and portable, yet utterly delicious, elevate your taste buds with this sparkling and cheesy dynamic duo.

With Garda DOC wines, there’s no corkscrew required: Covering 10 historical appellations on the shores of Lake Garda, this DOC centers around sparkling wine production. Gentle, rolling hills curve around the southern end of the large lake, where cool breezes and abundant sunshine produce perfectly ripened grapes with freshness and acidity. White Garda Spumante DOC wines are typically based on Chardonnay, Garganega, Pinot Grigio, and Trebbiano, while rosé Garda Spumante is based on Pinot Noir, Corvina, and Merlot, and both may be made in the traditional or Charmat method.

In the beautiful alpine province of Belluno, the intensely flavored Piave DOP cheeses are made. A hard cow’s milk cheese, Piave DOP is named after the Piave River, which traces its way from mountaintops to the plains, winding its way through the land used to create these distinctive cheeses. A long tradition of dairy and cheese making has been passed down through the generations in this area, and modern cheesemakers use these traditional methods to craft five age designations of Piave DOP cheese…

About the Partner Organizations

THE GARDA DOC was founded in 1996 to underline the value of the varietal wines of the 10 historical appellations of the Garda area between Lombardy and Veneto. www.gardadocvino.com 

Consorzio Di Tutela Del Formaggio Piave DOP

The Consortium for the Protection of Formaggio Piave (Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Piave in Italia), with offices in Busche di Cesiomaggiore (BL), was established in 2010 to protect the PDO (DOP in Italian) from misuse, counterfeiting, and unfair competition. The Consorzio also has the task of protecting the

typicality and the peculiar characteristics of Piave cheese, promoting it on all markets – both national and international – and upholding it by providing product information to consumers. www.piavecheese.com

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.