Good and Bad Wine Experiences That Shape Our Interest

January 10, 2020 by evebushman

What wineries, wine writers or winemakers have you snubbed for a real – or possibly imagined – insult?

It’s probably happened to us all. That one bad experience with a business and we no longer will frequent them. It could be out and out bad behavior (stole my wallet in a restaurant and lo and behold they handed it to back me from behind the cashier’s desk within minutes) or more of a perceived fault.

I’ve seen the latter in many cases between friends, instead of talking it out they both assume the other is in the wrong. Fine, if a friendship ends there then you are both to blame.

But lets stick to business here, wine business to be exact. A wine store owner told me that decades ago, before he was in the business, he purchased what he was told was a rare bottle of wine for a certain sale price that couldn’t be beat. You know what happened. He saw the same wine – and yes he checked to make sure it was the same vintage year – at Costco for much less. He vowed never to buy wine from the winery again. Well aware that big box stores get deeper discounts for buying in bulk, he was lied to and insulted.

Fast forward those decades and when a wine rep tried to sell him anything from that winery – and he always turned it down. The rep was persistent and finally pulled the story from my friend. Then what happened next really surprised me. The rep went back to his employers and relayed the story. Hey, it’s only one wine shop they could have said, who cares?

But they didn’t say that. Instead they discussed it. And they came up with a formal apology and that same bottle, in that same vintage, and had it engraved with that same apology. My friend started buying their wine again, and telling this story.

I have a couple of stories like that under my skin too. One was a winemaker that made fun of bloggers on social media, saying he laughs at them when they mispronounce the name of a wine. I blushed. I may have even written about it at the time. Maybe even commented on his public Facebook post about it. I simply hate snark and elitist people.

I know that I took the insult personally, as ten years ago I could’ve been that wine blogger. I’ve avoided the winemaker at events ever since.

I remember being in Paso on a press trip many years ago and being unsure as how to pronounce the word calcareous, I believe it was Halter Ranch winemaker Kevin Sass or Calcareous winemaker Jason Joyce, that noticed it and not only politely told me how to pronounce the word (Cal-care-e-us) explained to me what it meant (a type of limestone in the soil, read more here).

Another time I arrived at Calcareous for an appointment on a Sunday morning with Joyce but he didn’t show up. When I got home a few days later he had sent me an apology note explaining that his newborn baby had been ill, and he also sent several bottles of wine. That gesture was over the top for me, he didn’t need to apologize for a family emergency, and I’ll never forget it. These are reasons, as well as their winemaking talents, that I still enjoy both Halter Ranch and Calcareous.

And I’m sure that I’ve been in the wrong myself. A pal that I knew was sensitive about not going to college and made to feel she wasn’t good enough…well I told her that spell check doesn’t always know sommelier from Somalia (she had used the wrong word on social media and I didn’t want her to be publicly scrutinized) so I suggested that she just use the accepted abbreviation “somm” that is easier to pronounce and spell. Haven’t heard from her since. Reached out though, a few times, to no avail.

Point is we’re all not above taking a lesson from Joyce, Sass, as well as the winery that etched a bottle of wine for my friend. Rather have something permanently etched in my mind with a positive message over a negative one.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Paso: Learning About and Tasting With Parrish Family Vineyards

November 23, 2018 by evebushman

I could swear that I had been to Parrish Family Vineyards before for a dinner they hosted for the Cab Collective. However the property on Adelaida Road was new for me as it was for everyone else, only having been opened this past year. It nagged at me for about a nanosecond, then I was quickly caught up in everything this new discovery held for me. (One of which was seeing former SCVer Denise Criste living the dream, having moved to Paso and now working in the tasting room at Parrish!)

Took some photos of the calcareous stonework that contributed not only to a large wall but also to the terroir of the wines, and some of the bright red umbrellas – that could be seen from the road below – that sheltered many inviting groups of tables on the grounds overlooking vineyards.

The tasting room was welcoming. With many different cushiony seats to choose from, we learned that this would be a theme throughout. There were member’s only rooms, meeting rooms, dining rooms adorned with leather seating, balcony seating – the inside and outside seating options seemed endless. We learned that many people would move from one spot to another to enjoy their tasting, or to linger over a bottle for part of their day, some even circling back to Parrish for a second visit the same day as they are the only winery on Adelaida open until 6pm.

Membership options began with as little as a four bottle allotment and allowed for nearly monthly gatherings where you could reserve the exact spot you wanted to sit – I could definitely see a draw for a growing numbers of members.

We were shown a wall of photos and memorabilia that flanked both sides of the entrance to the tasting room that every guest will pass through. These items told a bit of a story of Earl Henderson, the grandfather of existing owner David Parrish, who had a love for golf (there is a small putting green for you to partake in the game if you so desire) and began cultivating grapes before prohibition.

David, before taking the mantle, was known for his work in trellising. At one point he had 24 patents for different trellis types for different fruits. He has seven active now. The winery made their first vintage in 2006. Coppola, L’Aventure, Clos Solene and others buy up their grapes. Learn more about Earl Henderson and David Parrish here.

Wines Tasting

While we toured and learned about Parrish we tasted through some of their wines. Bought a couple of bottles for home as well:

A crisp 2017 Sauvignon Blanc; 2016 Chardonnay with a lovely amount of oak; the nicely balanced 2014 Silken – named for how a member described as silky – Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon blend that my husband bought; an extremely approachable 2014 Petite Sirah that I had to buy for home as we don’t often find one we love; 2014 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from the Creston vineyard property; 2015 Petite Sirah I like almost as much as the 2014; 2015 Silken blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and a tiny bit of Syrah; 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2014 Zinfandel that was really mellow for a Zin but damn fine just the same.

Parrish Family Vineyards, 3590 Adelaida Road, Paso Robles, CA 93446, (805) 286-4028 www.parrishfamilyvineyard.com Open from 11 to 6pm daily – the only winery open until 6pm on Adelaida Road.

To see the photo grids from all of our Paso winery visits from this trip click this.

Vintage Eve Circa 4/2015: Cabs of Distinction Welcome Reception and Tasting

July 10, 2018 by evebushman

The Paso Robles Cab Collective is a group of wineries that are focused on creating Bordeaux wines and blends in Paso Robles. This is the third year of the Cab Collective, this year called the Cabs of Distinction event, that gives trade and media a 3-day opportunity to taste and go to seminars to better our knowledge of the region’s wines – and give equal time and thought to Bordeaux varietals over the the Zins and Rhônes that Paso is famous for. (Just like Rhone Rangers and Pinot Days type events, the Cab Collective’s goal is that we will share what we’ve learned with our readers, etc.)

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Daniel Daou and Eve.

At the Paso Robles Inn Ballroom for our first seminar and tasting we experienced a few minutes of audio problems, but no one really cared because, heck, we were at a wine event so while we waited…we tasted.

Besides getting started on the tasting I did a check off in my head of what was to come: first the brief welcome, barrel and new release tasting from some of the Cab Collective member wineries, dinner (and a grappa tasting!) would be at Opolo Vineyards, a sommelier-led class in the morning, lunch (I didn’t know this yet) at Rotta Winery, maybe some wine tasting on our own (which ended up being a spirits tasting at Re:Find Distillery in Villicana Winery) being shuttled to more wine tasting and a dinner at Villa San Juliette Vineyard and then the last day at J. Lohr Vineyards having lunch, learning how to blend and then finally to Vina Robles for another lesson and tasting.

Before I could think about it any further…the audio was corrected and the reception began.

Daniel Daou, the rock star looking winemaker with microphone in hand, greeted me with, “I still like your bikini photo best…” and then picked up the mike to address the crowd. I can now see why this charming winemaker gets so many “likes” on my Facebook page. Of course the fact that he makes killer wines also has something to do with it!

Daou told the crowd, “We don’t get a bad vintage often…it’s our trademark” as “our region achieves ripeness year after year” delivering wines of “perfect balance.” Daou continued, “Several years ago…we set on a path to work together…required a lot of work, resources, money…even replanting…wineries joined in and accomplished today what you are about to taste.”

Daou then thanked the Cab Collective sponsors for their funds and resources…gave us a teaser about the seminars to come and introduced Wine Country Alliance President Jennifer Porter, who, in turn introduced Chris Taranto, Communications Director of Wine Country Alliance.

Taranto said that what he is presenting “could be presented by all of the people here today” that had come to represent the wineries. The slide show began with Zinfandel…the grape that got Paso Robles on the map. Established in the 80s, Rhone and Bordeaux varieties are the largest in the region, Taranto said, and most are family owned, small-case production. There are now over 200 wineries and 3,200 vineyard acres, 146 of that 200 have tasting rooms.

What makes Paso unique? According to Taranto Paso Robles is the hottest of the coolest regions, depending on how close to the ocean, and that calcareous soils prevail all over the area – more than any other California AVAs.

In a slide of a side view, from Morrow Bay, we saw the mountain ranges, and how the fogs can get trapped in the area; as well as wind and cooler air. Taranto said that Paso “benefits from proximity to the ocean, and proximity from the ocean.”

In 2007 59 vintners came together to set 11 separate AVAs as the land was very diverse. Approved by Nov 9, 2014 wineries could now use new labels with their set district. So “preserving Paso as a whole” was accomplished.

Porter added, “We are really friendly…non judgmental, approachable…” our manifesto includes the words, “there are no rules…this is the Place to Grow Wild.” Porter said that we would see that in the blends the winemakers are making as they are “just trying to be welcoming…taking the snobbery out of wine.”

Now, back to the tasting.

As usual I photographed all of the wines I liked in particular. But here are a few comments to the photos:

Justin Winery winemaker Scott Shirley’s barrel tasting of his latest was freaking outstanding and we hoped he could make single bottles from that one barrel instead of making what will definitely be a killer blend. No such luck unless we get his home address.

Red Soles was a new one for me, and of equal interest to some great wines is that they are distilling spirits – must learn more about that soon in another visit. Suffice it to say if you make if from grapes (or any fruit) they are allowed to sell it from a winery tasting room. Rumor is that there are twenty wineries in Paso now doing this!

The latest Suendero 2011 blend from Vina Robles blew my socks off. And their 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon was great too.

Bon Niche was new for me, we had two blends, loved both, especially the 2011 Chemin blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

My new fave find of the tasting, Rotta, and his SBR blend – you’ll read about more as we ended up getting over there for a full tasting over lunch in Part II of this tale running on May 22.

Halter Ranch killed me with their first 2012 Malbec, gotta get me some more of that as well as their latest Ancestor 2012 vintage.

Loved J. Lohr, and we had a two hour tasting coming up with them and Vina Robles during this same trip.

The latest Soul of a Lion blend from DAOU was very remarkable. Need more.

Michael Mooney’s latest for Chateau Margene, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, was yummy and good to drink now.

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Wine 101ers Dream Part I: Visiting Bordeaux’s Château Le Grand Verdus and Château Petit Village

July 24, 2015 by evebushman

If you enjoy Cabernet Sauvignon (or any of the 5 noble grapes of Bordeaux that also include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot) visiting Bordeaux may be on your bucket list, it certainly was on mine. And, after my first day in Pomerol where Merlot is the predominant grape, I’m sitting in my hotel in Bordeaux city center sipping a glass of wine from one of the five wineries we (my husband Eddie is in many of my photographs) planned to visit on our trip.

Visiting a Château is not something I wanted to rush so visiting only five over two days seemed just fine, and thanks to Planet Bordeaux and the helpful tourism office of Bordeaux, I was set with leisurely tours and tastings.

Note: As I was walking or standing most of the time my notes are brief, but I think you will get the idea!

Château Le Grand Verdus

Winemaker/Export Manager Thomas Le Grix de la Salle showing the winery to Eddie Bushman.

20 km east of Bordeaux. 16th-century Renaissance residence has been in the hands of the same family since 1810 – four generations of the LE GRIX DE LA SALLE family. In 1579, the fortified country residence was built on the site of an old fortified castle. In 1974, Château Le Grand Verdus, one of the architectural jewels of the Bordeaux region, was listed as a historical monument. (Appointment courtesy Planet Bordeaux)

The one thing I asked was to please book us a tour in the oldest Château possible, like the iconic images we see on many Bordeaux wine labels. Château Le Grand Verdus did not disappoint. Three generations of the family currently live at the Château, and our guide said that the “grandfather would end his life here.”

We learned that the property started out as a farm where cows made their home, and now is where vines reside. After World War II they decided it was a nice terroir for vines and the family began cultivating and selling grapes.

Negotiants – thought to be untrustworthy – were soon discarded by the winery, and they chose to sell their wines directly to the consumer. As a point of history they were the first to do this in Bordeaux. The vine production grew from its original of 40 hectares to 120 hectares.

Notes:

Windows of the Château were not installed in an effort to prevent bandits from entering.

The Château belonged to Napoleon’s architect. (Now if that isn’t a slice of history I don’t know what is!)

The makeup of the soil – clay, gravel, limestone, calcareous, shells, etc. – can all be seen on the walls of the Château and make it a “nice parcel for planting.” (See more in this Facebook album link here.)

Grapes include Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadet, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

The three-level cellar was built in 1970. The stainless steel tanks were originally designed to use for milk before then!

Winemaker/Export Manager Thomas Le Grix de la Salle explained that you can’t make “good wine without clay…Latour, Petrus, all have clay” and both clay and limestone are needed for their sponge effect in holding water.

Thomas studied agriculture in Toulouse, travelled to gain experience at Santa Barbara Winery and then in far off Marlborough, New Zealand; making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in both locations.

95% of the grapes used in their wines are from their own estate.

Due to global warming, a very real thing to Thomas, he is having great success with Cabernet Franc and is using more in his blends. This may be a trend to watch.

We tasted several whites, a rosé, a red vertical from 2009 to 2012 of their Grand Reserves, and a 2010 and 2011 from their second label “Generation” red blends. (The second label had different color capsules, making them easier to find for a buyer according to Thomas.) Most were predominant Merlot with Cab and/or Cab Franc. All with great balance, fruit, acidity and ageability. Across the board I’d have to give them all high marks, and nothing less than 90 Eve points.

Vertical tasting at Chateau Le Grand Verdus

33670 Sadirac
Tel. +33 (0)5.56.30.50.90
http://www.chateaulegrandverdus.com/en/accueil.html

https://www.facebook.com/ChateauLeGrandVerdus?fref=ts

Château Petit Village, Pomerol

(Appointment courtesy Planet Bordeaux)

Our guide, Julie Bellot, explained that they only make red wines in this very modern looking facility. Most wineries are small and have 4 to 10 hectares. They produce Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Julie said that they were one of the first Pomerol wineries to modernize. Many chocolate colored concrete tanks fill the winery – that was a first for me to see! They are lined with epoxy so no concrete flavor imparts to the wine.

Notes:

Petit Village benefits from both wind and humidity – the wind dries the leaves and the bunches.

The Merlot benefits from the sand, gravel and clay in the soil.

Petrus, their neighboring winery, benefits from blue clay. (Did you know about blue clay before today? I didn’t!)

“Bad pollinates” result in uneven grape size in the bunches.

Birds and small animals like foxes are not a problem.

Cabernet Franc leaves are smaller than the other grape leaves.

The older the vines the smaller the yield.

They only make two labels, first and the second. The second label will not have the word “Château” on the label, is made from the youngest wines and will be a lesser cost.

Wines of Pomerol have to have a majority of Merlot.

We tasted a 2012 Merlot (second label) and the 2009 Merlot that had longer aging before its release. Both were enjoyable now, or you can age. “This is the best place in the world to grow Merlot,” Julie commented, there is “always that velvet sensation in (the) mouth (and there is) great quality of Pomerol wines.” Both of these wines deserved a minimum 90 Eve points.

Château: +33 (0)5 57 51 21 08

www.petit-village.com

Wine 101 – Learning About Two of Spain’s Winemaking Regions: Rueda and Ribera del Duero

November 21, 2014 by evebushman

Spain’s Great Match, now in its 21st year, is a tasting event organized by the Trade Commission of Spain, in which American importers and distributors of Spanish wines present their top products, new wines and their latest vintages to the American wine industry professionals and consumers…and offers a great education for wine 101ers!

Lecture: Verdejo meets Tempranillo

Rueda and Ribera del Duero with Steve Olson, Wine & Spirits Educator

Educator Steve Olson

Before the walk around tasting mentioned above began, some attendees such as myself signed up for an educational lecture on two regions with nothing in common other than that they are both in Spain: Rueda and Ribera del Duero.

Steve Olson, our very entertaining and informative teacher, got started by explaining that the Rueda wine area produces white wines while Ribera del Duero is known for its reds. In this class the two would meet.

The Spanish, in Olson’s opinion, make wines to make people happy. Wine critic Robert Parker says that Spain is producing the cutting edge wines of today. The Spanish are very thirsty people, according to Olson, and with 80% of their land under vine, in the past they had kept most of the good stuff for themselves. But now Spain has realized that the U.S. is an important consumer, and there are much more imports available.

As we viewed slides of the two areas, Olson explained that Spain enjoys “an incredible food and bounty…plenty of produce in Spain.” As the “fourth most mountainous country in Europe” most vines have been planted 20,000 feet above sea level. The terrain allows for acidity, ripeness, minerality and freshness in the wines. And while the soil is calcareous in Ribera, it is more clay based in Rueda.

A wine from Rueda only has to have 50% Verdejo to be called a Verdejo; and it must be 85% if making Superior Verdejo – the remaining percentage is usually filled with Sauvignon Blanc. The wines we were about to taste in the class are all l00% Verdejo. Now Sauvignon Blanc is only used in the less expensive Spanish wines according to Olson. And the top Verdejos are more aromatic, with notes of fennel, licorice, and some have a nutty quality.

While there are about 60 wineries in Rueda there are 270 wineries in Ribera.

All of the wines we were to taste in the class were hand picked and hand sorted. Though to keep grapes fresh, and to harvest at night, they are slowly going for more machinery.

In Ribera the days are warm, and at night it cools off. The cool ocean breezes are from the Atlantic as Ribera is not on the eastern side of Spain. The wineries produce low yields, have a longer hang time and are usually under 14% alcohol. Ribera is one-fourth the size of Rioja.

As we readied ourselves to begin the tasting Olson said, “If you’re in Ribera and you want a white wine most likely you will be given a Rueda.” So to Olson, the seminar was a perfect paring:

WHITES (Aroma and taste are separated by ; and prices for all are suggested retail)

Martinsancho Verdejo 2013, Bodega Angel Rodriguez Vidal, DO Rueda

100% superior, dry farmed. $20

Lemon, pear, grapefruit, slight creamy hints; same notes with a nice acidity to round it off. Very well done. My favorite of the whites.

Robert Vedel Cepas Viejas Verdejo 2012, Herrero Bodega, DO Rueda

Orange, sweet honey dew melon, pink lemonade, honey, caramel apple; Not as crisp as the first wine we tasted, the fruit is not as strong on the palate, dry, want food, maybe Manchego cheese, interesting. $24

Cuvee Especial 2012, Bodegas Jose Pariente, DO Rueda

Single vineyard, up in the hillside. $35

Sweet and tart, mown grass, lime, mineral notes; lemon, drying, green, want with shellfish.

Naiades Verdejo 2011, Bodegas Naia, DO Rueda

Some oak aging time, 2800 feet above sea level, head pruned. $34

Sweet and creamy, oak, moss, milky; slightly bitter, oak, lemon, acid.

At press time these two additional Verdejos were shipped to me for review:

2013 Protos Verdejo

Pink lemonade, creamed corn, buttered popcorn, lemon wedge, pears in light syrup; lemonade, grapefruit juice, light, acidic, short finish, pleasant, would enjoy with a crisp wedge salad with a rich creamy dressing.

2013 Finca Montepedroso

Carmel apple, lime, kiwi, white peach, stony; mango, crisp Granny Smith apple, tingly, not too acidic, nice length. Would be nice with a grilled tuna steak in mango salsa.

REDS

Pesquera Reserva 2009, Alejando Fernando Tinto Pesquera, DO

No drainage, gravel, Tinto Fino 100%, estate grown, aged in American oak for 24 months and then one year in bottle before release. $50

Smoky and juicy blackberry, blueberry, wet bark, milk chocolate, incredibly lush; cigar, chewy, jammy, good dark fruit, nice smoky lingering finish. Very good.

PSI 2012, Bodega Dominio de Pingus, DO Ribera del Duero

A bit of a tough vintage. Concrete aging, 100% Tinto Fino, all organically farmed, above 2400 feet sea level. $40

Pungent, tinny, raspberry, figs; palate similar with the addition of drying tannins. Would like to have roasted meat or a nice charcuterie plate with olives and hard cheeses.

Astrales 2011, DO Ribera del Duero

Clay soil, old vines, 29 hectares, 20 months in mostly new French oak, then American oak, natural ferment native yeasts. $70

Sliced Italian plums, blackberry, black pepper, dark chocolate; dry, dirt, dried dark berries, nice, want pizza topped with black olives and artichoke hearts.

Aalto 2011, DO Ribera del Duero $50

Lovely balance of dark fruit and spice, ending with a hint of mint; happy to have the same expert balance on the palate, dry finish cries out for just one more sip. This might be my favorite of the reds though the Reserva is excellent, just totally different.

Following the class was the walk around tasting of Spanish wine and fare – beyond Rueda and Ribera. Unfortunately, I had been slightly injured in an accident with an employee (he was pointing to someone without looking and jabbed me in the throat) that is, at press time, still sore. Anyway, I did make it to some of the tables (Sabor olives, Cheese from Spain, Amontillado Los Arcos Sherry, Finca Hispana, El Seque Alicante, Vina Albina, Tapas from The Bazaar, Trus Crianza, Las Rocas…) but not nearly as many that deserved coverage, which I’m confident my fellow press allowed. However, I did take a few photos of the tasting if you care to check them out via this Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/eve.bushman/media_set?set=a.10204245974576960.1073741887.1455706632&type=1&pnref=story

Wineries

W01 – Agustí Torelló Mata
W02 – Bodegas Franco Españolas Rioja Bordón
W03 – Bodegas Muriel/García Figuero/Vallformosa
W04 – Bodegas Ontañón
W05 – Bodegas Riojanas
W06 – Bodegas Solar de Urbezo
W07 – Campo Viejo / Ysios
W08 – Castillo de Monséran
W09 – CIV (USA)
W10 – Clos Pons
W11 – Codorníu Raventos Bodegas y Viñedos
W12 – Finca Hispana
W13 – Folio Fine Wine
W14 – Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd./El Coto de Rioja
W15 – Freixenet USA
W16 – Jorge Ordóñez Selections
W17 – Marqués de Riscal
W18 – Martín Codax / Las Rocas
W19 – Matarromera
W20 – Osborne/Montecillo
W21 – The Artisan Collection
W22 – The Haciendas Company
W23 – Torgar Group
W24 – Torres
W25 – Wines From Spain, Inc
C01 – Campo Viejo
C02 – Codorníu Raventos Bodegas y Viñedos
C03 – Freixenet USA
C04 – J. García Carrión
C05 – Marques de Gelida

Tapas Courtesy The Bazaar® by José Andrés,

SLS Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Beverly Hills

LUNCH MENU Chef’s Selection of Spanish Cheeses & Embutidos / Jamón / Pa’amb Tomaquet / Beef Flank Steak / Papas Canarias / Croquetas de Pollo.

DINNER MENU Gazpacho Chilled Tomatoe / Spanish Tuna and Local Radish / Jicama Wrapped Guacamole / Croquetas de Pollo / Modern Olive Station / Chef’s Selection of Spanish Cheeses & Embutidos / Jamón / Pa’amb Tomaquet

CARVING STATION Beef Flank Steak / Papas Canarias, PAELLA STATION Chicken & Mushroom Paella / Vegetable Paella and SWEET LITTLE SURPRISES THE PATISSERIE

Wines from Spain

Wines from Spain is a promotional division of the Trade Commission of Spain based in New York. For 30 years, Wines from Spain has been committed to increasing the awareness of Spanish wines throughout the United States through education, informational materials, special events and promotions. For further information on specific wine regions and producers, please contact: Wines from Spain, Trade Commission of Spain, 405 Lexington Avenue, 44th Floor, New York, NY 10174-0331 or visit www.WinesfromSpainUSA.com.

Cab Collective Final Installment: Vintner’s Panel Discussion

May 16, 2014 by evebushman

After reading Paso Robles Cab Collective: Wine Dining in the Beacon on 5/9, Paso Robles Cab Collective: En Primeur, Current and Reserve Tasting (also on May 9) on this website, today I have the final installment on the Cab Collective (though you can also look forward to an entire article just on HammerSky alone very soon).

l- r Kevin Sass, David Parrish, Matt Kettmann, Michael Mooney, Daniel Daou

Vintner Panel Discussion

Moderated by Wine Enthusiast Contributing Editor and freelance writer Matt Kettmann, on the topic of Paso Robles CAB Rises to the Global Stage, Kettman began by saying, “I knew least about Paso Cabs until last year’s event…and learned that when done well it’s a pretty stupendous wine.”

Speakers:

Parrish Family Wines

David Parrish, Winemaker and Proprietor

www.ParishFamilyVineyard.com

Parrish: He went to Davis, and from there worked with Robert Mondavi. He was in Napa for 20 years, then bought 160 acres in Paso, planted 20 acres in Preston.

Parrish wanted enough “growing degree days”, which means that the Cabs need a warmer area, with good root stocks. Parrish said, “A winemaker must educate themselves on the best clones, then look for calcareous soil, and also some clay…” and added that in Paso they have the “Goldilocks syndrome” in growing grapes and making wine as “It’s not too hot and it’s not too cold.”

Parrish mentioned that he had netted canopies that didn’t work to keep the birds from eating his fruit, and the netting hurt the grapes. He heard about Falcons to keep birds out of vineyards and a falconer from Oregon was brought in. “It’s unbelievable,” Parrish said. “Like a Great White in the ocean but over the sky.” Now no bird damage to the canopies.

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon

“This wine has black fruit, tobacco, spice, and luxurious finish begging that you drink more …”

EB: Creamy, pungent ripe dark fruit, stems, mint; dances on the tongue, dark fruit again, balance, dry finish. I might prefer this one with food, a nice filet mignon…

Halter Ranch

Kevin Saas, Winemaker

www.HalterRanch.com

Saas: Halter Ranch is located in the west side of Paso Robles, and they have the largest planting on the west side. With 15 varieties now – as Saas had removed some things – the owners had bought the property in 2000 and sold fruit to Justin. Over time the owner decided to commit and build the winery. They dry farm to the degree that they can, and as they have 3 substantial wells, the water shortage is not effecting them.

2010 Ancestor

“Only 200 cases” were made, the wine is a blend of Cab, Petit Verdot and Malbec. “We removed Merlot and Cab Franc.” Saas said. “And are committed to Cab, Petit Verdot and Malbec.” This vintage saw sixteen months in new French oak. Saas came to the winery in time for the blending of this, their flagship wine.

EB: Dusty, rose petals, rich blueberry, blackberry, tobacco, dark chocolate, coffee grounds; Deep dark smoky fruit, tannic, tea bags, black pepper, palate-drying. Very good now, can cellar if you don’t like the tannin structure, with food or without.

Chateau Margene

Michael Mooney, Winemaker and Proprietor

www.ChateauMargene.com

Mooney: The Mooneys are 7th generation Californian. Mooney looked at Sonoma and Napa, and then chose Paso and started here in 97 with all small production Bordeaux.

Mooney said, “The conversation of east side verses west side needs to go away.” Paso has over 600,000 acres so they can have many different varieties that can do well, and can be blended together from different areas. “For me, lets spread the word on Paso Robles.”

As far as the question of water, Mooney commented, “We have had a huge water problem for years, El Niño is due next year, droughts come and go, the shallow wells have dried up and now the county must approve new plantings. Hoping that ordinance will change. No issue yet for them in Creston.”

2012 Cask 4 Cabernet Sauvignon

Mooney said, “This wine has plush tannins and structure.”

EB: Younger nose in compared to the others in the tasting. More bright fruit and acidity; same profile in the mouth, I want to give this wine a little more time, however, if you like bright fruit go for it!

DAOU Vineyards and Winery

Daniel Daou, Winemaker and Proprietor

www.DAOUVineyards.com

Daou: In a 2 minute history, Daou spoke of how he co-founded DAOU with his brother Georges and how Paso Robles has the “most French-like terroir we could find in California.” Their mountain is 100% calcareous clay – which gives natural acidity. Daou added, “Let the dream come to Paso…high density planting, lots of research of clonal selection to reflect terroir and what to produce in high quality fashion.”

2010 Soul of a Lion

Daou said they produced 550 cases of this wine, which saw “new French oak aging for 24 months, still needs some time.” It sold out in five weeks in tasting room. This terroir can produce a more expensive Cabernet, Daou believes, “It’s doable and it’s sellable.”

Daou wants to see more age-worthy wines produced in Paso and the continuation of the “Cabs of Distinction” Cab Collective over the next ten years. “We’re not trying to be Napa,” Daou said. “Our soils are more like the 1982 ripe year in Bordeaux with natural acidity and minerality in the wine. It’s always good to look at history, 1982 was a warmer year in Bordeaux; we are achieving ripeness every year…”

EB: Mint, full/round, plump dark fruit, milk chocolate; Tannic, dusty dark fruit, pepper, long finish. Good to go now or cellar, very nice.

Facebook album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10202851177387902.1073741866.1455706632&type=1&l=c56410ce87

Paso Robles Cab Collective- En Primeur, Current and Reserve Tasting

May 9, 2014 by evebushman

In this, the second annual Cab Collective, now called the Paso Robles Cab Collective, the media was given a multi-day schedule. I planned on resting my head for two nights at the Hammersky farmhouse, after days that would be spent doing barrel tasting of the 2013 vintages, vintner panel discussions, library tastings, interviewing winemakers over our meals and culminating with a return visit to Justin Vineyards for a press BBQ. So lets get this party started!

(For this 8-page story I decided to divide it up by sharing the wine tastings on the Eve’s Wine 101 and the wine paired dinners in the Eve’s Wine 101 column – on the same day, 5/9/14 – in the SCV Beacon. The final installment, the Vintner’s Panel Discussion, will appear on this website on 5/16.)

All we knew was that we were to meet at the Paso Robles Inn Ballroom to start, in what quickly morphed into being called “Cab Camp”, with barrel tastings from the as-yet-unreleased 2013 vintage.

En Primeur Tasting is just a fancy name for Barrel Tasting. With most only having 4-6 months in barrels, with another 12 or more to go, it is quite a test of the palate to discern what the future wine may taste like. I was able to pick out some various notes of oak, cigar, chocolate, red to blue fruit and tannin, though specific fruits such as blueberry to fig took some time and contemplation. And finding blueberry now may translate to fig later anyway.

(Two hours later we were to taste the current vintages, and then reserve wines, my notes on that are included below. I have to admit my palate was fatigued after the barrel tasting, and many of us commented that they may want to plan it differently next year. This would come to be our ONLY comment. The event was that stellar.)

En Primeur, Current and Reserve Tasting

Of special interest to me was Adelaida as I was going to dine with the winemaker later. I learned that their growth has been “even with Paso” in that they started with the popular bold Zinfandels in 1981 and then moved over to Cabernet Sauvignon. I enjoyed the ’10 Cab for its gamut of red to blue fruit, and later, an ’03.

Another winery I would learn more from later over a meal was Ancient Peaks. They had a popular $15 retail 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, but I fell more for their 2010 Oyster Ridge that was predominantly Petit Verdot. Later, during the reserve tasting, we enjoyed the ’07 Cab and ’07 Oyster Ridge blend of Petit Verdot, Petit Sirah and Merlot. Winemaker Mike Sinor called it “The best of the best in the vineyard.” (More on both of these first two wineries later.)

I finally got to meet Calcareous winemaker Jason Joyce (see earlier review here of his wines and how I had missed him before) serving his 2013 York Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend with notes of chocolate and dark plums. Joyce said the wine would see another 30 months in barrel before a 2016 bottling.

Cass winemaker Ted Plemons never fails to entertain. His barrel sample of a Cab blend of clone 8 and clone 33, with 6 months in barrel, was filled with fruit and smoke. Plemons commented that he thought too many people spit out their tastes as they had to feel the wine, deep in the throat, to get the full taste. He himself will taste and “take notes until we can’t.”

I saw owner/winemaker Michael Mooney of Chateau Margene over his 100% new French oak Cab barrel sample and look forward to trying more of his wines. Mooney was the one I first heard from about the Cab Collective three years ago during a Paso tasting in Culver City. He was very excited about the new group forming, things they were learning from each other and planning their first event.

Clautiere Vineyard shared their ’11 Bordeaux BDX blend of Cab, Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. I learned that Clautiere believed that Malbec would be more of an interest in future vintages.

It was very popular around the DAOU Vineyards table. Winemaker and Facebook friend Daniel Daou was holding court, definitely one of the buzz-making wineries for their Bordeaux blends. We barrel tasted the Soul of a Lion blend and later returned for the ’11 Cab. And still later, I returned to a taste of the ’09 Reserve Cab with 75% Cab, 12% Cab Franc, 10% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. It was one of my favorites of the day for its balance, spice and exceptional mountain fruit.

At Eberle I asked to try Gary Eberle’s last wine that he had made, ’07 Love and Kisses Cab. The wine’s name was an ode to his final efforts. I noted a gentle sweetness and plum red

Eve and Tony Quealy.

berries.

I enjoyed reconnecting with winemaker Kevin Sass and tasting room manager Tony Quealy at Halter Ranch Vineyard over a barrel tasting and current vintage of Ancestor. The blend is one of my favorites from the winery, and the new vintage had all of my favorite things: chocolate, dark fruit and tannins all in balance. Later, when I got to sample the ’10 and ’08 Ancestor, both had the same chocolate and dark fruit notes, both were faves of the day.

Slight Segue: We are staying at the Hammersky Inn. As I am transcribing my notes this morning I’m enjoying a cup of French press coffee, and a view that starts with my husband sitting at the kitchen table with me and beyond to a porch swing, then the barn, tasting room, lush green lawn, vines, rose bushes, birds, rock walls and stately trees. The Inn is nearly 100 years old, and the bedrooms are richly decorated; the bathrooms filled with aromatic lotions and soaps. I highly recommend trying the different overnight accommodations in Paso, hotels to Inns.

At the event Lauren Tinnin, who we hope to see again in the Hammersky tasting room, impressed us with their ’10 Bordeaux blend called Party of Four, with Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and only 11% Cab. Later we returned and met up with friendly (and funny – he told me a skunk got into the farmhouse and we’d be spending the night in the barn!) owner Doug Hauck who poured us samples of ’08 Open Invitation Zinfandel and Merlot blend with a very chocolaty nose, a very nicely structured ’07 “Limited Resource” Cab and a fruity ’10 Zin. We enjoyed that same Zin again over a roasted pig BBQ at Justin Winery that night. (We also had a nice long chat, and several wines to review, look for my story on HammerSky alone in a later story!)

At Jada my fave – maybe of the whole day – was the ’11 Jack of Hearts that was a blend of 62% Petit Verdot, 31% Cab, 7% Merlot. This is a winery I noted to visit.

At J. Lohr we were lucky enough to try the ’06, ’07 and ’10 Cuvee POM which is a Pomerol-styled Meritage blend that may be made of different percentages of Merlot, Cab, Petit Verdot, Cab Fran and Malbec each year. I liked the ’06 the best, which was Merlot dominant.

At Justin I tried the ’09 Isosceles Reserve; it was ripe, with great fruit and balance. Having just had dinner at Justin Vineyards two weeks ago, I bypassed the wines I had just tasted and zeroed in on the ’11 Isosceles too. This vintage was Cab dominant, with the addition of Cab Franc and Merlot.

I enjoyed the ’10 Cab Franc from Le Cuvier, getting some of the same stemminess I got in their barrel tasting, as well as chocolate, fig, cigar and stewed fruits.

I heard a buzz about Le Vigne so I was happy to sample the ’06 Meritage blend called “Nikiara” and enjoyed the abundance of both fruit and spice.

Another wine I had just reviewed over a wine dinner was Opolo. I asked about the sudden rise in production – 29 thousand cases to 75 thousand cases – and was told that it was due to demand. I could see that the tasting table crowd was a decent example of that!

I knew I’d have something from Parrish Family at the panel discussion the next day, but I really enjoyed the opportunity to try the ’06 Cab; another Paso Cab with a great spice and fruit.

Peachy Canyon’s ’11 Devine Cab, that included 14% Merlot and 6% Cab Franc, was filled with juicy fruit and chocolate. The ’07 Para Siempre, a 5-varietal blend, was still remarkably young but very enjoyable.

Pomar Junction’s ’10 Reserve Cab would age well, and for now I was happy with the tangy red fruit and smoky finish.

Red Soles Winery shared a ’11 Estate Cab that was all big fruit and tobacco.

Visiting with Vina Robles winemaker Kevin Willenborg is always fun, and fruitful! This time I enjoyed his ’10 Suendero blend that was 79% Cab and 21% Petit Verdot. Later I tried the ’07 version, that was 86% Cab and 14% Petit Verdot…I may have liked the ’10 a wee bit better!

Album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10202851177387902.1073741866.1455706632&type=1&l=c56410ce87

Part One Earth Day Weekend: Justin’s Farm to Fork Dinner

April 18, 2014 by evebushman

We spent last weekend celebrating Earth Day in Paso Robles, in case you missed all my hints in the Dear Wine Friend e-newsletter. We started out with a lovely tour and overnight accommodations at the Creekside Bed and Breakfast formerly owned and operated by Per Cazo Cellars owners Dave and Lynne Teckman. From there we drove over to Justin Vineyards and Winery for a vineyard tour before sitting down for a four-course Farm to Fork wine-paired dinner designed by Chef Will Torres. The next day we spent at Castoro Cellars where the main Earth Day Food and Wine event promised a perfect one to one ratio of wine to food.

Justin Vineyards unveiled a new tasting room in August 2013. Gone is the small walkway with flora and fauna; it’s been replaced with a large golden gravel drive. Gone is the dark tasting room and bar; replaced with a large rectangular-shaped bar facing large windows that look out onto the al fresco dining area, outside bar, and further, where we would tour, rows and rows of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the varietals that make up their uber-popular Justification and Isosceles Bordeaux blends.

Before we got going on the planned tour I recognized a local COC Culinary Arts graduate, Chef Liz Pack, at the event with her husband Bruce. I was now set as I had my partner in crime, as we were equally interested in learning and tasting everything!

Members of the Vineyard Team, “Promoting Sustainable Winegrowing”, led our group through the vineyards while explaining Justin’s long-standing SIP Certified “Sustainability in Practice” of making “great wines” via “healthy vineyards.” And they explained that the Earth Day Food and Wine Weekend started about 8 years ago, to celebrate Earth Day in the local community. Guests soon asked to see a vineyard and learn more, so the Farm to Fork dinners were established. For Justin, and other SIP Certified vineyards, the program entailed a collaboration of respect to the environment, the business end and the people that worked and cared for the vineyards.

“This is our Office, and we love to show it”

During our vineyard tour we stopped to watch a farm worker pilot a “Sunflower” to cut the weeds off below the level of the dirt instead of using pesticides, and we saw a five-foot sample of the earth from top soil down to the desirable calcareous rocks, that was ideal, according to Justin’s winemaker Scott Shirley, for the best grape vines.

As we hiked between the well-tended vines I hung back to say hello to Shirley. I had met him nearly a year ago at the first Cab Collective, for a barrel tasting and later as a panelist in our seminar. (He remembered my face, not the fact that I didn’t love the barrel tasting, we were off to a good start…though I did remind him that I may skip the barrel tasting this year!)

“If I were a Cab grapevine this is where I want to be planted,” Shirley began. “I left Napa for this calcareous land.” Shirley had spent 7 years at Hess and before that, 6 years at Opus One. His winemaking heart was definitely rooted to Bordeaux blends.

I asked Shirley about the plans Justin has for increasing their production. He said that is from the newer land that they purchased, the calcareous land. It would take a few years before they would harvest a vintage for bottling, but they wanted total control and would not be buying grapes.

During the tour we sipped Sauvignon Blanc and a Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon. Both were very pleasant as it was still warm out as the sun set. The Rosé was of particular interest to me as I’m always in search of a good one. I noted rose petals, peach, cantaloupe melon, cream and no over-abundance of sugar, which seemed to prompt the guests to want more.

Justin Dining

Having Chef Will Torres’ Flatbreads with Herb-Roasted Tomatoes teasing me from the April 2014 cover of FOOD & WINE magazine, it was all I needed to get me to want to attend the Farm to Fork Dinner at Justin, where Chef Torres would surely shine in his own kitchen at The Restaurant at Justin.

Chef Torres had been a Facebook friend for a couple of years, and works at the restaurant alongside former local Chef Chris New, who is now the Sous Chef at Justin. (The Chef Tournant is William Ouderkirk and Chef de Partie is Timothy Barakat.)

When we meandered back to the dining area, some of the guests took in a lesson and show from the hawks and owls that were brought in, some I expected to see again the next day at the tasting event. We learned that the hawks are used to scare away the birds from eating the fruit, and the owls come in at night to take care of the rats, squirrels and other rodents. (And there were several “furnished houses” complete with straw prepped for the owls to move into on the vineyard.)

l-r: Chef Chris New, lucky Eve, Chef Will Torres.

I used this time to also descend on the chefs that were working in an outdoor cooking area to prepare our hors d’oeuvres: Crushed Favas, Pork Pate, and my ultimate new favorite, warm and lemony BBQ Oysters. I not only got in on some of the tasty tidbits as they were being plated, I obtained my goal: I met and had my photo taken with Chef Will Torres and Chef Chris New.

Soon we were asked to take our seats. The first dish was courtesy Windrose Farm; a salad that included English peas, sprouts, radish, Ricotta cheese, lettuces and a Lemon Thyme Vinaigrette that was paired with the 2012 Chardonnay. (Wine notes: oak, creamy butter, Meyer lemon and mown grass. Seemingly a perfect accompaniment to the salad.)

Course number two came from Pier 46 Seafood: Steamed local halibut, butterball potatoes, Monterey asparagus, bacon, clams and Sofrito paired with the 2011 Justification. (While Liz and I wondered at the white fish and red wine pairing, neither disappointed. On the wine I got plum jam, dark chocolate, black pepper and violets. The wine is 59% Cabernet France and 41% Merlot.)

Then came 805 Beef’s tenderloin and brisket, Nettle Cavatelli, carrots, morels, charred Cippolini onions, smoke tomato jus paired with 2011 Isosceles. (Wine notes: Big, bold and jammy, with structured tannins, tons of black fruit, black and green pepper, and a hint of chalkiness drying the palate for a long finish. Shirley said he did something different with this vintage of Cabernet blend and had shortened the oak time – only 21 months in barrel, all new French oak and he used about a dozen different cooperages.)

Our final course, strawberry-rhubarb crumb pie made with oats, mint and served with an icy buttermilk ice cream, was nearly devoured by our husbands. (Wine notes: Served with a 2012 Sunny’s Block dessert wine, I got orange zest, honeysuckle, honey, orange blossom and a blooming rose garden. A very delightful pairing with the pie!)

Soon our evening was over, with one last round of applause to our hosts at Justin, the Vineyard team, restaurant team, Chef Torres and Chef New. Time to get back to our B & B to sleep and rest up for tomorrow, and Part Two of our Earth Day weekend story.

Photo album link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10202746119241514.1073741861.1455706632&type=1&l=0e3e45f68f

Zinfandel Questions and Answers, Part 2

March 15, 2014 by evebushman

Last week, I started exploring the issue of alcohol levels in Zinfandel, and received comments from Claire Silver, co-owner of Tobin James Cellars and Janell Dusi, winemaker and owner of J Dusi Wines.

In this week’s article, we hear from Karl Wicka, winemaker at Turley Wine Cellars’ Templeton location:

“Zinfandel as a variety has uneven levels of ripeness within the same cluster. In any given cluster, you can have berries that are ripe, slightly under ripe, and berries that are completely green. If you picked your crop at this point, the resulting wine would have off-putting green characteristics. Competent Zinfandel producers wait until the lagging green berries meet minimum maturity standards, at which time the berries that were initially ripe have begun to raisin. When crops at this maturity level are harvested, the resulting musts have an elevated sugar level leading to higher alcohol wine.

Local Zinfandel is grown on soil that has a calcareous parent material. In our experience, zinfandel vines grown in calcareous soils produce grapes with low pH and high titratable acidity. In order to allow the vines to balance the acid levels the grapes need more hang time resulting in higher sugar levels and thus higher alcohol levels.

Thus, alcohol matters, but balancing green flavors and acidity are more important.”

Now, things are getting complicated. Lots of factors go into this, including hang time, weather, and the soil itself. But, I didn’t want to limit my queries to Passo Robles, so I reached out to three top producers in Northern California (Carlisle Winery, Bedrock Wine Co. and Robert Biale Vineyards) for their input.

Robert Biale Vineyards (www.robertbialevineyards.com) has been growing Zinfandel since 1937. Before becoming a licensed winery, they sold Aldo’s homemade wine under the code name “black chicken”. Now they make some of the most highly prized Zins around, including their Black Chicken Zinfandel.

From Biale Winemaker Tres Goetting:

“Thank you for your inquiry regarding alcohol levels in Zinfandel wines. There is a lot of debate and discussion around this topic right now as winemakers seem to be coming back full circle to the “old School” style and approach to making California Zinfandels with lower alcohols.

I think that there is always going to be some variability in the alcohol levels in certain wines from specific vineyards depending on the growing year and variations in weather. For me and for our wines at Robert Biale, I am calling the harvest pick dates of each vineyard based on ripeness of the berry skins and seeds, not by sugar level. While certain vineyards struggle to ripen fully and have lower alcohol levels, especially if they have leaf roll or other virus issues, others have healthy vines and produce good, ripe bunches that reach naturally higher alcohol levels.

In some vintages, we see slow, long and cooler seasons which may produce less sugar at the same skin ripeness and some are compressed and either very low in alcohol or higher. So, there is this up and down trend depending on the year. You can look to your 2010 wines compared to your 2011 wines of the same vineyards as an example of this. Most alcohols will be lower in the 2011 wines since we had a cool and wet growing season that year.

Ultimately, I am looking for overall balance in the wines. No matter what hand you are dealt, you need to be able to get out of the grapes what you need in order to create wines that are compelling, and graceful yet bold and ripe. Our style at Biale is to ferment the wines in a way that will extract enough fruit, acidity, tannin and structure to compliment the alcohol and incorporate it into the wine so that it will not have an alcohol heat to it.

It seems that we are on the same page with our opinions on alcohol levels. It really doesn’t matter what the number is as long as the wine is “in balance” and shows the beautiful fruit characteristics of Zinfandel.”

Next week, we’ll hear from Carlisle Winery and Bedrock Wine Co.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. (2013 Update: Eve and Michael announced Eve Wine 101 Consulting. Info is here: http://evewine101.com/press-releases/) Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com.

Cab Collective Part 2: Seminar and Tasting

May 10, 2013 by evebushman

Day two of the Cab Collective began with a seminar and tasting moderated by Steve Heimoff, the West Coast Editor of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Panelists included Gary Eberle, owner/enologist, Eberle Winery; Scott Shirley, winemaker, Justin; Kevin Willenborg, winemaker, Vina Robles; Steve Peck, winemaker, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines; David Galzignato, winemaker, Jada Vineyard & Winery; Daniel Daou, owner/winemaker, Daou Vineyards & Winery.

Heimoff began by asking what’s making (Paso) wines so good lately? Was it the last few years of cooler temps? Then he introduced Gary Eberle as the pioneer among the panelist.

Eberle: The first time he saw Paso was in 1972, working on doctorate at Davis. He made three soil-sampling trips, returning his samples back to Davis. The potential, of cold nights and poor soils, was something the Europeans had taken advantage of and he was anxious to do the same in Paso.

Eberle planted 700 acres in five years, selling half of their production to Napa wineries. “I never had an honest job; learning and making wine is all I’ve ever done” Eberle said. Eberle thinks Cabernet is their best grape, they do remarkably well with it and they age well. His own cellar has wines from 70s and 80s.

The region, Eberle commented, now has professionals and not just home winemakers, making it harder to keep up with competition.

As far as vintage variations, 1979 was the coldest year and the grapes were picked until 12/7. The hottest vintage year was picked in August. Odd number years seems to be the best, 91 he thinks was his best year.

Eberle 09 Cabernet: Tannic, a hint of dark leafy greens, mint and dark plum.

Scott Shirley: “I’m a newcomer to Paso and 2012 is my first vineyard. And Justin has 30 years farming in Paso.”

According to Shirley, “you need great soils, great climate and great people” to make world class wines in Paso. The Isoceles is their left bank Bordeaux blend, and the Justification is a right bank blend. He’s looking for tannins, fruit and acidity – a perfect harmony of those three elements. Don’t analyze your wine, Shirley said, he just wants people to want another glass. Paying attention to wine itself “while in barrel” will bring Paso into the future and Shirley does extensive cooper trials with each barrel.

Shirley believes you can make a better wine with blending from different lots, different grapes, making a masterpiece that isn’t disjointed. Make a wine “enjoyable on release, and still enjoyable after laying down.”

Justin 09 Isoceles: Meaty, browner color, tannic, great fruit, dark cherries and plums, dark chocolate. I could drink this now. First favorite.

Kevin Willenborg: “This is my 30th harvest,” began Willenborg. “I just moved from Napa recently. (I know that three of us in this panel just moved from Napa, and that’s enough of us that believe in Paso Robles as a wine region.) Paso has three things: 1. High temperature variance, with warm day cold nights. 2. Soil. and 3. Rich bold fruit.”

While in Switzerland the family heard of Paso and the adventurous nature of the region. Vina Robles started in mid 90s highly focused on estate Cabs.

09 Mountain Road Reserve Cab: black pepper, vegetal, palate drying, strawberry to plum fruits, chewy, gravel. Ninety-eight percent Cabernet, 2 percent Petit Verdot. My second favorite.

Steve Peck: The perception (of what the area has to offer) has changed according to Peck. Rain is common (half what they get in Napa) and water-holding capacity is low. However, you want to buy Bordeaux from dry vintages, those are the best, so that’s why the weather works in Paso. Irrigation to bring moisture up helps as well.

(We dined with Peck and Heimoff the night before, more on Peck can be found on this site from last Friday’s story: Cab Collective Part One.)

10 Hilltop Cab: Milk chocolate, cut black cherries, balanced. One percent Syrah, 50 percent new French oak, fruit forward per Steve.

David Galzignato: “We’re a small, 4,000 case winery, so thank you for inviting us.” Galzignato began. Owner, Jack Messina, wanted Bordeaux, so they planted 60-70 percent Bordeaux and 30 percent Syrah. “Jack is competitive and wanted great wines like his neighbors.”

Galzignato came on in 2011 as first full time winemaker. Now, with “dedicated” full time “people and the money to support” that, it has helped with the quality. Galzignato believes that Paso has potential to be the best appellation in California. He’s worked in Napa, and thinks he was brought in to elevate the Bordeaux varieties. They pay enormous attention to detail, picking at night, like the other good producers, they use smaller bins so less juicing in boxes and it’s all estate vines on all 20 acres.

’10 Passing By: Red licorice, mint, juicy dark peppery fruit, balanced, good to drink now. My third favorite. 80 percent Cabernet and 20 percent Merlot.

Daniel Daou: As Daou tells it, while having dinner with Eberle, drinking an 80’s vintage, it was an amazing testament to great terroir and winemaking. We drank each other’s wine. Eberle asked, “Paso is larger than Napa – so why limit which wines to make?”

Daou said that due to the calcareous soil and minerality they never add acid to wine as there is natural acidity in Paso. This is Daou’s twelfth year making Cabernet. Originally known for value wine with more clusters and high yields to make bottles for less than $15, now they are producing less fruit, (had to convince growers to drop fruit) to make better wines. Daou said that there is now a market as consumers will pay $50 for the better wine.

Their climate is warmer at night, and the soils are all calcareous, so they get the stress they are looking for according to Daou. More rain goes into the ground to replenish cover crop and canopy and with the cover crop green due to precipitation, they’re not watering until August. Then Daou waits for the “skin to turn into velvet to reach perfect ripeness” to harvest.

’10 Estate Cabernet: nose tingling, tannic, dark fruits, nicely balanced, dry long finish.

Sextant

Grand Tasting

The total participant list *included ADELAIDA Cellars, B & E Vineyard, Chateau Margene, DAOU Vineyards & Winery, Eberle Winery, HammerSky Vineyards, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, Jada Vineyard, JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery, L’Aventure, Niner Wine Estates, Parrish Family Vineyards, Rangeland Wines, Record Family Wines, Robert Hall Winery, Sextant Wines, Still Waters Vineyards, Venteux Vineyards, Vina Robles, Wild Horse Winery. The press event was limited to 16 wineries, which was more than enough.

(*After the seminar I sampled what I could before palate fatigue set in. I have bolded the wineries above that I was able to visit. Many poured four or more selections, and even though the total number of wineries may have been small this first year, trust me, tasting wines as old as 2003 was not to be taken for granted. I so wished I could have done more!)

Eve and Jim Gerakaris, Somm with Justin

Paso Robles CAB Collective

Formed in 2012, the Paso Robles CAB (Cabernet and Bordeaux) Collective (PRCC), strives to promote the full potential of the Paso Robles AVA in producing superior quality, age-worthy, classic and age-worthy Cabernet and Bordeaux varietal to consumers and media worldwide.

The Paso Robles CAB Collective has set out to confirm that the appellation’s unique attributes provide the perfect condition to produce luscious, well-rounded red Bordeaux wines that can compete with like varietals on a global stage.

Founding members of the PRCC include: Daou Vineyards and Winery, ADELAIDA Cellars, J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines, JUSTIN Vineyards and Winery, Vina Robles, Chateau Margene and Eberle Winery.

http://pasoroblescab.com/