One Bottle Post: Cru Beaujolais – du Moulin-a-Vent

March 24, 2021 by evebushman

Been a long time since I’ve had a Gamay wine from Beaujolais, France. Not to be confused with Nouveau Beaujolais, its younger sister that is presented every November fresh from bottling, this particular Gamay had some aging (see the tech notes below). I knew it would be red fruit on the nose and palate – reminding me a little of a Pinot Noir – and I was interested to see how this one, from Moulin a Vent, turned out.

From the website Beaujolais.com we learn, among other things, “A natural cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc, the gamay noir à jus blanc variety makes it possible to produce wines with multifaceted fruitiness: from ‘cheerful fruitiness’ for Festive Beaujolais wines – and hence ‘Beaujolais Nouveau’ – to “complex fruitiness” for the Exceptional Beaujolais, and including “racy fruitiness” for the Expressive Beaujolais…”

The Tasting

The color was like a bright ripe cherry, inviting. On the nose I got quite of bit of red fruit, mostly strawberry and raspberry. There is also some white pepper, smoke, golden raisins and incense. The taste brought all those ripe red berries right up front, some spiciness with a lively palate. This would be our first wine of the night, a refreshing starter, and one my Pinot loving friends would also appreciate.

From the Technical Sheets

General info: approximately 13% alcohol, 100% Gamay grapes, approximately 33,000 bottles, bottled 12/5/2019. On the vines we learn that “These terroirs less exposed to the winds, below the historical moulin-à-vent, on its east slope. The maturation is scarcely stopped and the fruit is much better preserved.” 40 year old vines. Harvested by hand, 3 weeks cold pre-fermentation. Aged at least 15 months in 100% stainless steel, no oak aging.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Perlis Picks: Portalupi

December 26, 2020 by Michael Perlis

“Grandma was a bootlegger.”

Not something you hear every day, but this is what Jane Portalupi told Karen and me when we visited.

The tag hanging on the one-liter milk bottles of their Vaso di Marina red and white wines tells the story like this:

“This wine is inspired by my grandmother, Marina Portalupi, who immigrated to Northern California from Piemonte, Italy. She believed wine was a staple, like milk and bread, and kept a barrel of her vino di tavola in her small grocery store. Every day, customers would fill their empty milk bottles to take home and pass around the dinner table. Vaso di Marina is a rustic yet refined wine in that same tradition and we hope you’ll enjoy it the same way.”

The above was how this article was supposed to begin after our visit in 2019. For various reasons, it got delayed. My apologies to the Portalupis for that. Then, 2020 came and the pandemic happened, the world changed, and I think it would be more important for you to know what is going on now with the winery.

But first, a little backstory…

I first tasted Portalupi’s wines at WineLA’s 2019 Elevating Zinfandel event. Of course, I only got to taste their Zins that day, but they were excellent versions from the Russian River Valley Dolinsek Ranch. I knew we needed to taste the rest of their offerings the next time we visited Sonoma County, which we ended up doing later in the year.

The winery was founded in 2002 by Jane Portalupi and Tim Borges to showcase their Italian heritage and its connection to California wine in a true Cal-Italia celebration. Jane and Tim knew each other as children and when they reconnected as adults, they married and combined Tim’s winemaking experience with Jane’s fashion marketing background into Portalupi Winery. Founded in 2002, Jane and Tim wanted Portalupi to honor their own Italian heritage along with the deep roots that Italian immigrants have in California’s wine industry.

Karen and I met up with Jane at the winery’s charming tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. Starting out, we were surprised to find they had a sparkling Barbera. What a delicious and fun wine to get our palates ready to taste some serious stuff.

We then tried a couple of whites, the 2016 Vermentino and the 2018 Arneis, both classic Italian varietals that were couldn’t wait to bring home and enjoy.

Enough playing around though, we were ready for the big boys.

Portalupi makes two Barberas, one from Shake Ridge Ranch in Amador County and one from Pauli Ranch in Mendocino. We tried the 2016 versions. I was very slightly partial to the Shake Ridge bottling, but I might have been a little prejudiced since I love Amador Barberas.

We also tasted through a selection of Charbono, two Zinfandels and a Petite Sirah. It’s hard to find much Charbono these days. Portalupi gets their Charbono grapes from the Venturi Vineyard in Ukiah, certified organic and vines over 100 years old, which is also where they get their Petite Sirah. I mentioned above that the Zin comes from Dolinsek in the RRV. As I said, these are “big boy wines”, delicious and able to stand up to whatever food you might throw at them.

I did check in with Jane on how things are going and this is what she told me:

“It has been a crazy year for sure. In Sonoma County we have been only able to serve outside. So our beautiful interior space is not being used although we have found out that our temporary outdoor seating has worked very well, especially on weekends. We are still not getting many tourists except from the bay area. People are loving the outdoors and everyone hopes this will go beyond Covid. We are approved by the city to go through December 2021 and I hope beyond, especially since we plan to build a beautiful outdoor space soon…Just wonder what our new normal will be – I have learned to be light on my feet and can make a change on a dime. So, as hard as it has been, we all have grown. We are fortunate to have a loyal following and are grateful every day for the people who support us.”

Jane said that Portalupi is all about food and wine with friends and family and celebrating the moment. We appreciate her letting us in to share that.

Portalupi Wine

www.portalupiwine.com

107 North St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 7/17 One Bottle Post: Carlisle Compagni Portis

April 28, 2020 by evebushman

My editor Michael Perlis knows all about Carlisle Winery, and has for a number of years, so in this one bottle post I will give you my impressions of this one bottle alone. If you want to know more about winemaker/owner Mike Officer or the vineyard practices you can search our website for Michael’s articles and/or email Michael himself: michaelthezinfan@aol.com

Destemmed grapes used for this wine, from Carlisle Winery website.

In the meantime, let me back up a bit. Michael and I enjoy a monthly staff lunch where he generously supplies the wine while I foot the bill. Michael emails me in advance to even ask my preference on the wine, “Hey boss, will it be white, pink or red?” Whatever I answer it’s always a good one. And this time it was the Carlisle 2015 Sonoma County “Campagni Portis” White Wine.

Tasting

The Campagni Portis was a field blend of Gewurztraminer, Trousseau gris, Riesling and other whites. The alcohol percentage is shown as 13.9% on the bottle (I thought it might be higher, based on Michael’s tastes! LOL. Michael no longer pays much attention to alcohol levels on labels and tries to get people to ignore that as well.) and less than 100 cases were produced. Also of note: these vines were planted in 1954. The back label says that they are “highly perfumed” and “unique.” By the end of the tasting I had to agree with their assessment!

I got quite a few aromas and flavors that included jasmine, grapefruit, peach, lemon-lime and mandarin orange. A mild acidity allowed the fruit to hang in perfect balance on the palate.

Michael paired the wine with a turkey Panini while I enjoyed a Caprese salad with beets, tomato, cashew “Ricotta”, pepitas, grilled shrimp, prosciutto and balsamic. My dish just served perfectly in allowing all that crisp fresh fruit to dance further on my palate. Quite enjoyable and I have to give it a rousing 96 Eve pts.

(One last note, as Michael sipped the final drop lamenting that it was gone – he congratulated himself on having at least one more bottle at home to savor with his wife Karen. And to Michael: Thank you for the many years you have generously shared your coveted wines with me.)

Tasting notes and details on this wine can also be read on the website here.

From the Winery

We are a small Sonoma County winery specializing in the production of old-vine, vineyard designated Zinfandels and red Rhone varieties (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Petite Sirah). We have also recently added our first whites, two blends from historic, old-vine vineyards plus Sonoma County’s first ever Grüner Veltliner. While we like our wines to be bold and intensely flavored, each reflecting its vintage and vineyard, we also strive to create wines of balance, complexity, and nuance. Our goal is always the same – grow and source outstanding fruit, do as little as possible to it, and bottle outstanding, pleasurable wine at the fairest price possible..

We hope you enjoy our Website. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Kind regards,

Mike Officer

https://www.facebook.com/carlislewinery/

http://www.carlislewinery.com/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Santa Clara Valley Association News: Wineries Coping in Trying Times

April 6, 2020 by evebushman

Due to COVID-19 and the shutdown of winery tasting rooms, the thirty-three winery members of the Wineries of Santa Clara Valley Association are trying to cope with the unknown, as closures may continue longer than expected. Vineyard operations and winery production, as well as essential business operations continue with enhanced measures following CDC guidelines for a safe working environment.

Wineries are ramping up their virtual and digital marketing and have devised three solutions to bring Santa Clara Valley wine country into local homes. Santa Clara Valley wine can be delivered to doorsteps, picked up curbside or shipped – in most cases the same day. The wineries are also offering generous discounts to promote and increase sales.

We are working closely with our members trying our best to accommodate our wineries and their customers during this time and will move forward with marketing promotions to encourage enjoyment of wine at home and take out of local restaurants.

To learn more about delivery, curbside pick up or shipping of Santa Clara Valley wine, visit www.santaclarawines.com.

About the Wineries of Santa Clara Valley An association representing 33 member wineries that grow and produce wines in one of the oldest wine producing regions of California. With the first plantings at the Santa Clara Mission in 1798, the region of Santa Clara Valley represents one of the oldest growing traditions in the country. The Santa Clara Valley is home to 100 year-old wineries to long-established family operations and those that are in relatively smaller tasting rooms. On March 28, 1989, the Santa Clara Valley received AVA status; prior to this the region’s wines were typically labeled ‘Central Coast’ or ‘Santa Clara County’.

Tasting 2018 Provence Rose Estates with Winemaker Alexis Cornu

March 15, 2019 by evebushman

It was a lovely day to taste Rose…that was and still is my opening as it sounds so good. But on the day of this particular tasting the skies had opened up as they have recently in LA and tried to ruin my day with about two inches of rain. The event, set for the Peninsula Hotel’s Roof Garden Terrace was moved to a private suite. Turned out to be much more intimate.

L to R: fellow writers Cori Solomon, Andy Harris and winemaker Alexis Cornu

We were to taste the latest 2018 vintages from two of the most popular Provence rosé estates in France, my tasting notes are in italics following notes from the winery:

Inspiration Rosé is produced at the storied Château de Berne and authentically captures the Provençal spirit with its classic profile and referential square bottle shape. 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. I got notes of peach, hard candy and flowers on the nose and also sea minerality and low acid in the mouth.

Romance Rosé launches this year as the newest addition to the Berne portfolio with a more affordable price point for those looking to explore the category. Previously name Emotion, the new Romance has aromas of rose petal, jasmine flower and saline, with the addition of white peach and a low acidity on the palate.

Chateau de Berne Estates is much more than just a rose. This is a hand crafted wine created from grapes specially selected by our winemaker from a unique vineyard block in the heart of the Berne estate, which is home to some of its oldest vines. Predominantly Grenache, the wine had a lovely balance with steeliness, peach, green kiwi and a gentle mouthfeel. A note on the square bottle shape: Cornu said that they had to redesign the bottling line to manage the unique shape.

UP Rosé, from the newly renovated Ultimate Provence estate, represents the bold, innovative nature of the region with its spicy blend and statement bottle. The UP stands for Ultimate Provence label, not Berne but 30 minutes away, and about 20 minutes from St. Tropez. Cornu explained that this area had more sandstone instead of limestone. I got that same floral notes as well as a more perfumy aroma with a bit of the sea. Cornu added that he enjoyed the wine with sushi and sashimi.

Chateau des Bertrands is located in the French commune of Cannet-des-Maures, at the heart of the Plaine des Maures nature reserve. Historically the crown jewel of Cotes de Provence, it offers exceptional wines thanks to an original geology and patient human effort. With more Cinsault than the previous mostly Grenache wines this one had what Cornu called “light, elegant and fine.” I noted a lovely pear in sweetened juice on the nose as well as minerality (wet pebbles) and saline.

Meeting with the winemaker for the estates, Alexis Cornu, proved to be an additional benefit. From Cornu I learned:

Breezy and surrounded by pines, Château de Berne is the number one destination winery in Provence, France.

Some of the names of the wines are different in France.

Cornu thinks about how the grapes may grow; whether it be under late ripening, sunny, warm or windy conditions, he finds that these conditions allow for “more finesse and freshness.”

Berne is one of four estates Cornu makes wine for. He feels that his wines in Provence are “always fresh with a nice texture on the palate.”

Berne thinks that like Champagne, in the next 20 years wine drinkers will notice a sense of place when drinking their “fresh and dry” Rose wines.

Harvest can occur at night, when workers will have had no sleep.

The old vines region produces a dry Rose not common to some wine drinkers. Especially those expecting sweetness in a pink wine.

The vineyards are working towards being 100% organic, they started the process in 2018. The wines already use less sulfites than before.

Four wines per estate recently obtained Gold Medals from a prestigious French competition: the Le Concours General Agricole.

Vintage Eve Circa 6/2015: Living the Vida LoCa Via Lodi

August 14, 2018 by evebushman

The #LAWineWriters struck again en masse for a recent tasting and lesson, this time on the Lodi winemaking region:

Camron King and Craig Ledbetter were on hand to tell us all about the wineries and vineyards in LoCa, aka the wines of Lodi. Camron is the director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, and Craig is a partner at VinoFarms, and helped developed the region’s benchmark 3rd-party certified sustainability program.

Introduction

Camron, to get us up to speed, gave us an overview of the Lodi region and then led us through the tasting. Maybe three of our group of 12 #LAWineWriters had visited Lodi. Camron said Lodi is directly east of the San Francisco Bay, giving them a “beautiful region” for wine grape growing due to the pacific breezes. Lodi does have warm degree-days in summer time and during the growing period, but the delta breezes provide a 40 – 45 degree cooling change and that coolness develops great acidity in the fruit.

Lodi History

They have been growing grapes in Lodi since the 1850s. Over 100 different wine varietals, from Albariño to Zinfandel, including old and new world wines, and all are “expressing quite nicely.” Now they have over 85 wineries and of those 65 having tasting rooms, making the growth perfect for wine tourism. Many wineries are small, boutique and direct-to-consumer. Michael David Winery, with its 7 Deadly Zin, is their biggest commercial winery.

With wine production in every U.S. state many of these states get their grapes from Lodi. Leading with many different varietals, Lodi helps others meet the demand for wine.

The longevity of the famous old vines in Lodi are due to the sandy soil, and because of that soil they don’t have the pests that other grape growing regions deal with. And according to our hosts, Zinfandel loves sandy soils. Though “the flagship variety” in Lodi is Zinfandel – and they are the world’s leading producer of Zinfandel, and produce about 40% for the state – they have wine varietals from all over the world.

Many vines are over 100 year old. They have one of the oldest, 132 years old, the Bechthold Vineyard, (vineyard of the year designate in 2014) which produces Cinsault. Bechthold isn’t the only Lodi winery to win a recent award, Delicato Vineyard is the winery of the year for 2014.

Also in 2014 “The Ledbetter family, which owns and operates Lodi-based Vino Farms, received the California Association of Winegrape Growers’ Grower of the Year Award…” more.

Lodi’s famous Zinfandel, and other grapes, may be picked at a higher brix level, which will translate to higher alcohol. And across the board, the majority of the wines are priced up to about $30.

A Word about Water

Homes use more wine than vines do. Though producing more food now then in past years they are using less water too. In a near joint quote Camron and Craig said, “This is a health food product, relaxes us and minimizes conflict – at times…it’s the wine, not the cheese or the almond, people talk about.”

The Ledbetter Family

Craig Ledbetter is a third generation wine grape grower, with zero association with any of the wines we were set to taste. He is interested in selling the region as a whole. In 1972 Craig’s grandfather, along with two partners, moved to Lodi to start farming wine grapes. Vino Farms now farms 16,000 acres, and is still a family operation with members living in different counties (they farm in 8) all over California.

Their goal is to improve the reputation of “the valley” for being too hot. It may get up to the low 90s during the day but it dips down to 50s in the night. Lodi growers know they can grow high quality wines with these conditions. Stags Leap in Napa has a hotter climate than Lodi, Craig said, but they “don’t compete with Napa.”

Town of Lodi

They have a beautiful downtown area, made up of cobblestone streets with plenty of shady trees. The city crest is a grape cluster, the buses are called the GrapeLine and the shopping center is The Vineyards. Population is 60,000 with most in the wine industry. The tasting rooms are considered “quaint” as family members man most. Lodi is considered to be a very philanthropic community that is very “tied together” and vested in the future.

Tasting

Aromas and flavors separated by ;

2014 LangeTwins Sauvignon Blanc (89 WE)

Bright green apples, buttery caramel, Meyer lemon; full and viscous, lemon zest, refreshing, crushed pineapple.

2013 Harney Lane Albariño

Sweet Hawaiian pineapple, fresh apricot, cut pear with a hint of anise; the same lovely fruit, nice medium acid, long finish. Well done. There are lots of Albariño wines in the restaurant and tasting room menus in Lodi according to our hosts.

2013 Bokisch Vineyard Vista Luna Verdelho

Candied red apple, kiwi, lemon-lime, cling peaches; not a sweet palate, more of a welcoming tang followed by balanced citrus and tropical fruit. This would be nice with a cool seafood salad.

2012 Bokisch Vineyard Tempranillo

Plum, cigar, sautéed mushroom, blueberry; dark fruit, dusty, dry, tannic. Can I have my New York steak now? Well done, wine that is.

2012 M2 Wines Soucie Vineyard Zinfandel (Old Vines from 1916)

Blueberry and blackberry jams, milk and dark chocolate, a hint of mint; very balanced, a perfect marriage of fruit and spice. I’d love this in a chocolate pairing.

2013 St. Amant Marian’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Old vines from 1902)

Heavy dusty dark fruit, black olive, black peppercorns, can’t wait to taste; chewy spicy fruit, nice and tannic, want steak with this one too.

Learn more and plan your visit: http://www.lodiwine.com

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Limerick Lane + Salt Creek Grille = a Fun Preview! The Main Event is 8/16!

August 10, 2018 by evebushman

Was pretty amazed, yes by the superb fruit and balance in the Rhônes and Zinfandels from Limerick Lane, and by the amazing auction items that had been donated so far to this particular Boy and Girls Club of SCV fundraiser, but equal to all that (for me) was a food pairing menu by Salt Creek Grille catering and Chef Tamra Levine.

Photo by Carl Kanowsky.

So, opposite of what I normally do – share my tasting notes on the fabulous wines first – I want to share the menu. Again you may ask why? This time I’ll tell you: Chef Tamra did the pairing based on the winery tasting notes, and created dishes she herself had never created before. Again you may ask how? She did what I would do – if I could cook – and incorporated the hints of the fruits and spices from the wines into her dishes. These are the Hors d’oeuvres, my notes are in parenthesis:

Mini Punjabi Grilled Cheese Panini (Mango chutney is in there!)

French Seafood Cassoulet (We didn’t sample but it sounded amazing as Cassoulet is traditionally made with beef.)

Old World Spiced Grilled Chicken/Vegetable Fritter/Pomegranate Glaze (Will you be able to find those same pomegranate notes in the wine?)

Provencal Short Ribs/Sautéed Gnocchi (We didn’t sample this one so you have to let me know how it is!)

Wine Country French Toast/Zinfandel Rosemary Sauce/Oven Roasted Grapes (Don’t care what this was paired with, just wanted to take it home!)

The Wines

Watching the SCVTV video of our preview, Carl Kanowsky, who has organized this event annually with his wife Terry, explains that “Jake (Bilbro) introduces each wine” that will be poured by Salt Creek staff for the guests and “you don’t have to fight with other people to get up to the really good stuff. It’s all going to be there for you.” Ann Marie Bjorkman, President of the Boys and Girls Club commented, “It’s nice and intimate – and limited to 75 people.” Here’s a peek:

2017 Rose of Grenache and Syrah

94 points Wine Enthusiast, reportedly the highest score the magazine has ever awarded to a Rose.

With aromas of grapefruit, mango, peach, shale, banana and strawberry, followed by the same fruit flavors on the mouth. Light and smooth, as well as a medium acidity, and long finish.

2016 “Hail Mary” Grenache and Syrah blend

93+ Robert Parker

93 Wine Enthusiast

Terry Kanowsky commented on the “delightful bouquet” that included black cherry, blackberry, crushed leaves, earth and sage. On the mouth we got the same black fruit, medium tannin, smoke, cigar and a long finish – a “huge back palate” according to Chef Levine, I had to agree.

2016 “1910” Zinfandel (The 1910 denotes the year the vineyard was first planted.)

96+ Robert Parker

95 Wine Enthusiast

Flowery, spicy and bold fruit on the nose; then a lovely amount of black fruit, spice and drying qualities in the mouth.

2016 Russian River Estate Zinfandel

92 Robert Parker

93 Wine Enthusiast

With red, blue and black fruit aromas, as well as cracked black pepper Mike Bjorkman called a “bit of pepper” on the nose; then in the mouth it was big, spicy and bold with an extra long finish.

2015 “1023” Zinfandel

93 Robert Parker

95 Wine Spectator

Interesting hard candy on the nose, then plums, milk chocolate and forest floor. In the mouth it was dark, spicy and dry. Love a wine that has the aromas to pull you in.

2015 “1910” Zinfandel

95 Robert Parker

91 Wine Spectator

Aromas of blueberry jam, earth, dusty and zero heat on the nose (all of these Zins showed no alcohol burn) while in the mouth we got a nice sweet, peppery, and dark fruit – all in perfect balance.

Exclusive Auction Items (available only that evening)

Two one-day Park Hopper Passes to Disneyland/California Adventure.

Two tickets to a Los Angeles Kings game in November 2018.

Framed, autographed photo of Dustin Brown and Anze Kopitar with Certificates of Authenticity.

Dinner for two with Limerick Lane wine at Salt Creek Grille before the Kings game; limo to Kings game.

Private tour, tasting and lunch at Limerick Lane and Jake Bilbro: Jake will coordinate with the winning bidder to create an irreplaceable “Limerick Lane Experience.” Lodging for one night in Sonoma County. Tour and tasting the following day at two of Jake’s best friends wineries: Arista and Mauritson. Arista is known as one of California’s top producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and Mauritson’s 7 generations of farming in the Dry Creek valley make for an unparalleled experience tasting their allocated Zinfandels and Cabernet’s. (This lot requires at least eight weeks advance reservation with Jake and is subject to his availability and activities at Limerick Lane.)

Chef Michelle Bustillos will provide a Cooking Lesson in your home, with Limerick Lane Wine Pairing, for six people.

Tickets and Info

Date: Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 6:30 p.m. for

Salt Creek Grille
24415 Town Center Drive, Valencia

Please join Jake Bilbro of Sonoma County’s Limerick Lane in a tasting of select wines from the winery’s collection. Well-known wine critic Robert Parker says of Limerick, “If you haven’t caught onto the magic that is emerging from Limerick Lane, it’s about time. Impressive heights of quality.”

Ticket link –> http://www.scvbgc.org/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 15k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Australia Up Close: Part Two

June 16, 2017 by evebushman

…enjoy making new discoveries as well as trying the latest vintages of old favorites.

Last week I wrote about the Australian white wine seminar I attended via the Australia Up Close event; what I learned and what we tasted. It got a little lengthy so I split up the story into two parts. Today is what happened the second part of the day, after the seminar, and is limited to all of the Australian red wines that I sampled in a walk around tasting; those that I loved and hope to get my hands on again.

My favorites (of those tables I got to as I know I missed quite a bit) are listed below. Wineries part of the “Australia’s First Families of Wine” designation that I liked are noted as an AFF Wine.

Trade Tasting Participating Wineries

Andrew Peace Wines

Ashton Hills

Austins

Ben Haines

Best’s Great Western

Bethany

Brokenwood

Brown Brothers

Campbells of Rutherglen

Cape Mentelle – 2013 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend; 2014 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot blend.

Climbing

Cullen

Dalrymple

d’Arenberg (AFF Wine) – 2013 “The Dead Arm” McLaren Vale Shiraz; 2013 “The Ironstone Pressings” McLaren Vale Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre blend; 2013 “The Coppermine Road” McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon; 2011 “The Old Bloke and Three Young Blondes” McLaren Vale Shiraz, Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne blend. (The Old Bloke…only used 2% of each white wine varietal listed in the blend. They are newly biodynamic and organic. This may have been my favorite table.)

De Bortoli Wines

Delinquente

DiGiorgio Family Wines

Fowles Wine

Giant Steps

Handpicked Wines

Helen & Joey Estate

Henry’s Drive

Henschke Wines

Howard Park (AFF Wine) 2012 “Abercrombie” Mount Barker Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon; 2009 “Abercrombie” Mount Barker Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon. (While both were excellent I enjoyed the younger 2012 for all of the outstanding fruit and peppery notes. There was no irrigation used – though the vineyards have irrigation if needed – and the vines were planted in 1975.)

Innocent Bystander

Jansz Tasmania

Jasper Hill

Jim Barry (AFF Wine) – 2014 “1877” Hilltops Shiraz.

John Duval

Kaesler

Kilikanoon

Koonara

Langmeil

Leeuwin Estate

Mac Forbes

McWilliam’s Wines

McPherson Wine Co

Negotiants USA – 2014 Langmeil “Orphan Bank” Barossa Valley Shiraz (Vines had to be moved, 90% survived, and were called orphans due to the move.)

Nova Vita

Ocean Eight

Old Bridge Cellars – 2014 John Duval “Eligo” Barossa Shiraz; 2015 Cullen “Diana Madeline” Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot blend; 2013 Jasper Hill “Georgia’s Paddock” Heathcote Shiraz. (They only made 600 cases of my favorite at this table, the Eligo.)

Penfolds – 2014 “Bin 389” Barossa Valley Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend; 2014 “Bin 407” Coonawarra Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon; 2014 “RWT” Barossa Valley Shiraz. (Who isn’t familiar with Penfolds? I stuck to just the wines I didn’t know, so damn good. The vines for these wines were planted between 1951 and 1960.)

Penley Estate

Peter Lehmann – 2012 “Stonewell” Barossa Shiraz.

Pewsey Vale

Pikes

Rob Dolan

Rogers & Rufus

Rymill Coonawarra

Schild Estate – 2013 “Moorooroo Ancestor Vines” Barossa Valley Shiraz. (170 year old vines, two years in both new and old French oak and then two years in bottle before release. Worth the wait for this 100% Shiraz.)

Shaw + Smith

Snake & Herring

Syrahmi

Tahbilk Winery

Thorn-Clarke Wines

Tolpuddle

Torbreck Vintners – 2009 “The Factor” Barossa Valley Shiraz; 2014 “The Struie” Barossa Valley Shiraz; 2014 “RunRig” Barossa Valley Shiraz and Viognier. (Only 3.5 % of Viognier was used in this blend to “soften” the wine and for a “tonal” lift. It worked.)

Tournon

Tyrrell’s Wines

Vasse Felix

Vinaceous

Voyager Estate

Wakefield Wines (AFF Wine) – 2013 “St. Andrew’s” Clare Valley Shiraz had a lovely touch of sweetness and great balance.

Wicks
Wirra Wirra – 2013 RSW McLaren Vale Shiraz (With vines between 40-60 years old, low yield production and the vineyard was originally planted in 1890.)

Woodstock

Yaldara

Yalumba (AFF Wine) – 2013 “The Signature” Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend.

Yarra Yering – 2010 “Dry Red No. 1” Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec blend; 2013 “Old Bastard” Barossa Valley Grenache Mourvedre blend. (These both got big “wows” from me.)

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Perlis Picks: Limerick Lane

June 3, 2017 by Michael Perlis

Limerick Lane, while it has been around for a long time, really burst onto the scene when Jake Bilbro acquired the property in 2011 from the Collins Family. The story of the timing of the escrow closing coinciding with bringing in harvest and then the destemmer breaking down is legendary enough that the annual Limerick Lane Hail Mary Syrah is named after it.

Jake Bilbro of Limerick Lane Cellars.

Bursting on the scene is what happened though, with immediate recognition from major wine publications that continue to happen, maybe even at an accelerated rate. Not unexpectedly though, as making great wine seems to run in Jake’s family. Starting with Marietta Cellars, which Jake’s dad Chris named after his great aunt, Jake and his brother Scot have long worked with their father to make delicious affordable wines that everyone can enjoy, growing the winery to 100,000 cases.

[Jake’s other brother Sam, who also worked with father Chris, owns Idlewild Wines, devoted to Italian varietals – I am looking forward to visiting during my next trip to the area. Yet another brother, Lucas, did not get bitten by the wine bug and pursues his own passion as a ballet dancer.]

When Karen and I last visited with Jake, there were not many wines to taste. Success will do that, especially when you are a small winery of only about 4,000 cases. I asked Jake if he planned to expand production given the demand for the Limerick Lane wines, especially with his involvement in last year’s Historic Vineyard Society event and his obvious connection to the great vineyards the organization works to protect. Jake respond that he greatly respects the work that people like Mike Officer of Carlisle and Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock are doing with regard to preserving and sourcing from California great old vineyards. However, notwithstanding the fact that these guys all sell a certain amount of grapes to each other, showcasing the special nature of the Limerick Lane vineyard and the wines it produces is his driving passion and that will be the focus of his time, at least for the foreseeable future.

The vineyards actually consists of fourteen blocks, the oldest dating back to 1910. The Zinfandel blocks are true field blends that also include Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Negrette, Mourvedre, Carignane, Syrah and Petite Sirah.

The Russian River Valley sprawls over a large area, and Limerick Lane is at the Northeast corner of it, with hills providing southern and western exposure. The soil is clay and rock, with the clay holding water and the rock providing space for the vines to dig deep. Cool nights and foggy mornings keep the acidity high and the wines vibrant while the warm afternoons allow the development of intense flavors.

Initially planted by the Del Fava family, the property was later purchased by the Collins Brothers in the 1970s. When Mike Collins was ready to sell, he wanted the property to be in good hands, which is why he approached Jake Bilbro. Escrow closed just the day before harvest in 2011. And, to complicate matters, as harvest was wrapping up a few weeks later, the winery’s destemmer broke, with 7 tons of Syrah still to crush. With rain on the way, Jake threw a “Hail Mary” and dumped the grapes, stems attached, into two open top fermenters and hoped for the best.

Personally, I love the complexity that stem inclusion can bring, especially to Syrah. And the Hail Mary bottlings from Limerick Lane live up to this trait. From that year on, Jake has made a Syrah labeled Hail Mary to pay homage to that first vintage. We got to taste the 2014 during our visit and it was great as always.

We also got to taste a few other wines during our visit…

2014 Russian River Zinfandel – from the original vines planted over a hundred years ago. Not your ordinary Zin, the field blend aspect makes this is a complex delicious wine.

2014 Syrah Grenache – it was the 2011 version of this that I raved about along with the RR Zin when I attended Sonoma In The City back a couple of years ago. This continued that tradition.

1910 Block Zin [2014] – You’ll rarely see specific tasting notes from me, but in this case it was just too obvious; it was just like fresh blueberries! Wonderful wine!

2014 Rocky Knoll Zinfandel – another field blend, with Mourvedre and Petite Sirah that give this wine wonderful structure.

These wines get very high scores from the wine publications. Production is small and the wines are very hard to find outside of the tasting room or the mailing list.

I asked Jake what he would like people to know about Limerick Lane. This would have been a perfect opportunity to talk about their great wines and brag about all their great scores and accolades. Instead, he said “Tell them that we’re really nice people. We’re small so we can’t have a lot of people stop by all at once so visitors have to make appointments. But we really do want to see them.”

Go see them. There should be new releases to taste, but don’t wait too long.

Limerick Lane

1023 Limerick Lane
Healdsburg, CA 95448

See photos of our visit to Limerick Lane and others from our trip here: Sonoma County Series.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Historic Vineyard Society Year in Review

January 21, 2017 by Michael Perlis

The Historic Vineyard Society is an organization that is very near and dear to my heart. Dedicated to preserving California’s old vines, the HVS Board members, led by Mike Dildine, have not only spearheaded the efforts to save these important properties but their wineries are responsible for producing some of California’s most exciting wines: Mike Officer [Carlisle], Bob Biale [Biale], Tegan Passalacqua [Turley and Sandlands], David Gates [Ridge] and Morgan Twain-Peterson [Bedrock]. Also on the project team is Joel Peterson [Ravenswood and Once and Future Wine].

I recently received the HVS year-in-review email and wanted to share it with Eve’s Wine 101 readers…

Happy New Year, Friends!

It’s hard to believe, but another year has come and gone, and as we reflect on the last twelve months, we’d like to update you on the latest HVS happenings and give a preview of what’s to come for the Historic Vineyard Society in 2017.

The year in review

In February, HVS board members conducted a tasting at the annual ZAP festival; this year, the premise was California Great Growths, showcasing exceptional old vine vineyards and wines made from them. Attendees very much enjoyed the discussion and a tasting of delicious wines from historic vineyards, and we look forward to participating at ZAP again in the future.
With the goal of educating the next generation of winemakers about historic vineyards, HVS Board Members conducted two educational tastings and presentations in 2016: the first, at UC Davis in March; the second, at Cal Poly in May. Both events were well attended by students eager to help carry the torch of preserving historic vineyards, and we plan to continue these tastings in the future, both in California and beyond.
May marked the 6th annual Vineyard Tour & Dinner, celebrating the historic vineyards and wines of the Russian River Valley. A record attendance of about 150 guests enjoyed an informative vineyard tour of Limerick Lane Vineyard, Carlisle Vineyard, Papera Ranch and Belloni Vineyard, led by the inimitable Jake Bilbro and HVS Board Members. Despite the inclement weather, a fabulous time was had by all.
In conjunction with the May Vineyard Tour and Dinner, HVS was excited to announce the release of the 2013 vintage HVS wine, a blend made by multiple HVS wineries from the old vines of Bedrock Vineyard. This is a project we hope to continue in years to come, with a different historic vineyard featured each year. Guests at the 2017 Vineyard Tour and Dinner will once again have the opportunity to purchase the HVS wine, this time from the 2014 vintage, a blend from Pagani Ranch.
HVS conducted a pop-up tasting at Cadet Beer & Wine Bar in Napa in November, with HVS board members pouring a variety of wines to showcase historic vineyards ranging from Napa (Hayne Vineyard and Aldo’s Vineyard) to Lodi (Bechtoldt Vineyard), the Russian River (Two Acres) and Sonoma (Bedrock Vineyard, Alta Vista Vineyard and Pagani Ranch).

What’s new in 2017

Save the date: the 7th annual Vineyard Tour & Dinner is scheduled to take place on June 10th, 2017 at Pagani Ranch in Sonoma Valley; as Morgan describes it, one of the most historically and qualitatively gilded vineyards in the Golden State. Stay tuned for further details on what is sure to be another memorable HVS event.
We are excited to announce that HVS was selected by Philadelphia-based freelance videographer Meredith Nutting for a video series on “Heritage Seeds,” with episodes on wheat, apples and grapes. The project will be pitched to the National Geographic Channel, the Smithsonian Channel and PBS, and we will most certainly keep you posted as the project develops in 2017.
We plan to schedule another tasting this year at Cadet Beer & Wine Bar in Napa, set up as a guided, classroom-style tasting to allow guests to hear from HVS board members about these historic vineyards and the wines grown therein.
Foundation Plant Services has invited HVS to send in clone selections from historic vines to be tested and treated/removed of any virus, then propagated. This has kept the HVS board members busy into harvest, as they’ve begun flagging vines to take cuttings this spring and sent into the FPS — this has the potential to allow public access to HVS selections and even create a special HVS clonal selection in years to come.

On behalf of the Board of Directors of the Historic Vineyard Society, we thank you for your support over the last six years. We invite you to visit the HVS website, where we are continuing to uncover new historic vineyards across California. We welcome your contributions in support of California’s historic vines, which can be made on the website.

We look forward to a wonderful year ahead.

Cheers,

HVS Board Members:

Signed by Mike Officer, Bob Biale, Tegan Passalacqua, David Gates, Morgan Twain-Peterson and Mike Dildine.