Perlis Picks: Portalupi

December 26, 2020 by Michael Perlis

“Grandma was a bootlegger.”

Not something you hear every day, but this is what Jane Portalupi told Karen and me when we visited.

The tag hanging on the one-liter milk bottles of their Vaso di Marina red and white wines tells the story like this:

“This wine is inspired by my grandmother, Marina Portalupi, who immigrated to Northern California from Piemonte, Italy. She believed wine was a staple, like milk and bread, and kept a barrel of her vino di tavola in her small grocery store. Every day, customers would fill their empty milk bottles to take home and pass around the dinner table. Vaso di Marina is a rustic yet refined wine in that same tradition and we hope you’ll enjoy it the same way.”

The above was how this article was supposed to begin after our visit in 2019. For various reasons, it got delayed. My apologies to the Portalupis for that. Then, 2020 came and the pandemic happened, the world changed, and I think it would be more important for you to know what is going on now with the winery.

But first, a little backstory…

I first tasted Portalupi’s wines at WineLA’s 2019 Elevating Zinfandel event. Of course, I only got to taste their Zins that day, but they were excellent versions from the Russian River Valley Dolinsek Ranch. I knew we needed to taste the rest of their offerings the next time we visited Sonoma County, which we ended up doing later in the year.

The winery was founded in 2002 by Jane Portalupi and Tim Borges to showcase their Italian heritage and its connection to California wine in a true Cal-Italia celebration. Jane and Tim knew each other as children and when they reconnected as adults, they married and combined Tim’s winemaking experience with Jane’s fashion marketing background into Portalupi Winery. Founded in 2002, Jane and Tim wanted Portalupi to honor their own Italian heritage along with the deep roots that Italian immigrants have in California’s wine industry.

Karen and I met up with Jane at the winery’s charming tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. Starting out, we were surprised to find they had a sparkling Barbera. What a delicious and fun wine to get our palates ready to taste some serious stuff.

We then tried a couple of whites, the 2016 Vermentino and the 2018 Arneis, both classic Italian varietals that were couldn’t wait to bring home and enjoy.

Enough playing around though, we were ready for the big boys.

Portalupi makes two Barberas, one from Shake Ridge Ranch in Amador County and one from Pauli Ranch in Mendocino. We tried the 2016 versions. I was very slightly partial to the Shake Ridge bottling, but I might have been a little prejudiced since I love Amador Barberas.

We also tasted through a selection of Charbono, two Zinfandels and a Petite Sirah. It’s hard to find much Charbono these days. Portalupi gets their Charbono grapes from the Venturi Vineyard in Ukiah, certified organic and vines over 100 years old, which is also where they get their Petite Sirah. I mentioned above that the Zin comes from Dolinsek in the RRV. As I said, these are “big boy wines”, delicious and able to stand up to whatever food you might throw at them.

I did check in with Jane on how things are going and this is what she told me:

“It has been a crazy year for sure. In Sonoma County we have been only able to serve outside. So our beautiful interior space is not being used although we have found out that our temporary outdoor seating has worked very well, especially on weekends. We are still not getting many tourists except from the bay area. People are loving the outdoors and everyone hopes this will go beyond Covid. We are approved by the city to go through December 2021 and I hope beyond, especially since we plan to build a beautiful outdoor space soon…Just wonder what our new normal will be – I have learned to be light on my feet and can make a change on a dime. So, as hard as it has been, we all have grown. We are fortunate to have a loyal following and are grateful every day for the people who support us.”

Jane said that Portalupi is all about food and wine with friends and family and celebrating the moment. We appreciate her letting us in to share that.

Portalupi Wine

www.portalupiwine.com

107 North St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Sampling Sparkling Barbera, and More News, from Tenuta Montemagno!

December 4, 2020 by evebushman

Barbera sparkling wine, handpicked and harvested early in the “Metodo Classic” from Tenuta Montemagno? I’ll take that. And take it I did. Two bottles from the same winery, that “refines on yeasts for 24 (TM24) and 36 months (TM36)” being their only difference. The full details are here in their press release. Below are my tasting notes, and below that is new news!

Tasting Notes

Tenuta Montemagno 24 (TM24)

The color of rose gold, with teeny tiny energetic bubbles. The aromas included fresh apricot, raspberry, strawberry, biscuit, cheddar, talcum powder and ash. Same strawberry fruit in the flavor as well as crisp Meyer lemon and pink grapefruit. Liked the balance of fruit and mild acidity. This was my favorite of the two.

Tenuta Montemagno 36 (TM36)

A little less color, more like salmon, with the same exuberant bubbles. This one gave off hints of cherry, fruit cocktail, jasmine flowers, cream and a toasted wood on the nose. Tasting it I got that same cream but also a slight tart cherry and limeade. Same great balance with possibly a little more acidity, however it was mild. I shared these two with Prosecco-loving guests. They took photos and will be seeking them out.

News: The Indigenous varieties of Tenuta Montemagno: Grignolino d’Asti doc – Ruber

Ruber is the Grignolino d’Asti of Tenuta Montemagno. It is another great witness of the valorization of Monferrato indigenous varieties that is one of the beliefs of TM philosophy.

When we talk about this grape, the connection to our farmer and wine growers’ roofs is immediate. Grignolino is a rare and difficult grape to cultivate and to vinify. This wine is renowned since the Middle Ages with the name of Barbesino – from Latin Barbexinus and its existence attested by the XIII century citations, reported in the archives of Casale Monferrato. The current name’s etymology could find its origin from the Asti dialectical noun gragnola or grignole, meaning the numerous seeds in the grape, which is definitely one of its traits.

The challenge of Tiziano Barea and the Oenologue of Tenuta Montemagno was, at first, to transform the Grignolino, this ancient and “farmer” wine, into a contemporary one, preserving the original identity and organoleptic structure.

The vineyard reserved for the Grignolino cultivation has South-Southwest exposure and the characteristic soil’s composition, made of calcareous clay with slightly silty marls are the environment where it grows up, on vines of 30 years old, Guyot trained.

The grapes are worked by hand as well as by hand are harvested. The vinification process has been studied to valorize the “plus” of the Grignolino and to balance them with the innate astringency. The first step is to eliminate 2 of the 4 seed of the bounce then, the long maturing with skin contact brings out the full aroma of dried roses and the aromatic complexities of wild strawberry, wild berries and, in particular, raspberries.

Ruber is the name that identifies the Grignolino d’Asti of Tenuta Montemagno. Ruber – from Latin, it is the color, ruby red, transparent and eyes catching.

Ruber is the successful and contemporary Grignolino d’Asti of Tenuta Montemagno: the taste profile reveals the personality of a wine that is uninhibited and versatile in terms of food pairing, fairly mouth-filling, with tannins that are present but not aggressive, a suitably crisp, dry finish, and a good follow-through with the fruity notes that appear in the bouquet.

Ruber is the expression of Tenuta Montemagno wine making style, solid and convincing, that looks at the tradition with a modern eye but without useless stretches and with concrete and constant high quality.

In every glass of Grignolino, we find the important oenological story of Piedmont. Ruber is a red wine of friendly character, able to let us enjoy the aperitif – when served lightly chilled, the fish based dishes and the classical recipes of the Piedmont’s cuisine, as the medium seasoned cheese, the Muletta – typical salame of Monferrato, and the Agnolotti – stuffed pasta.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

Women in Wine: Dr. Laura Catena, Anne Trimbach, Laure Colombo and Alessia Collauto Travaglini

October 9, 2020 by evebushman

Pretty excited to have these women (virtually) in my home – Dr. Laura Catena, Bodegas Catena Zapata & Bodegas CARO (Mendoza, Argentina); Anne Trimbach, Trimbach (Alsace, France); Laure Colombo, Vins Jean-Luc Colombo (Cornas, Rhone Valley, France); and Alessia Collauto Travaglini, Travaglini (Gattinara, Piemonte, Italy)!

Do you recognize some of those last names? You should as they are also names of their family wineries. I had met Alessia and her mother, Cinzia Travaglini, a year ago when they held a wine tasting luncheon at Angelini Osteria. (Read about that here.) The other esteemed ladies, well-educated winery owners and winemakers, I had not met before.

What We Learned

Dr. Catena explained that the wine industry employs about 40% female workers, and when she started zero were employed in actual viticulture, most worked on the business side. Even those, working in the office, had male bosses. In her time she has fought for equal pay for equal work. From her bio I learned more about this remarkable woman: Dr. Laura Catena is a fourth-generation Argentine vintner, physician and author. Catena was born in Mendoza and spent her childhood with her grandfather Domingo at the family’s winery in the small village of La Libertad. Laura graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and has a Medical Doctor degree from Stanford University.

For Travaglini it’s a different story, her family-run winery is all female except for her grandfather. From her bio: Today, she can be found tending the vines at Travaglini or working in the cellar alongside her family. She also takes an active role in the administration, marketing, sales and promotion of Travaglini wines…Alessia holds a degree in Economics and Business Management from the Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore. Although Italian is her native tongue, Alessia also speaks English, Spanish and French.

Colombo shared that her winery has a “sense of place” as her neighbors have cows, make cheese, etc., all contributing to what is typical in her area. A little from her bio we learn: …she interned at Château Haut-Brion while working toward her bachelor’s degree in Viticulture and Oenology in Bordeaux. She then received her master’s degree in Oenology from the University of Montpellier, where she participated in experiments with vinifications in the southern hemisphere. In 2010, Laure was ready to join the family estate where she has been working alongside her parents ever since. In 2014, she created her own Domaine in the Appellation of Saint Péray, Le Domaine de Lorient, with partner Dimitri.

Trimbach said that fifty percent of their productions is Riesling, and her family has been making wine for nearly 50 years, from their own estate grapes and from negotiants. Dr. Catena said that Trimbach is an expert at social media, and had built the Trimbach website. From Trimbach’s bio: She studied economics at Prepa HEC in Strasbourg before spending three years in Dijon, Burgundy to complete her master’s degree. Post-studies, she spent six months in Copenhagen improving her English skills before returning to France for an internship with a beverage distributor. In 2008, Anne moved back to Alsace and began to formally work as a winemaker and Trimbach ambassador.

Wines (my notes are in italics)

Jean Luc Colombo 2018 Saint Peray, “La Belle De Mai”

60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne White Rhone blend

14.5% alcohol

Laure Colombo, winemaker

This was a beautiful wine. Colombo said it was from a single vineyard, old vines, and that the grapes were harvested and vinified together. Beautiful nose showing fruit, minerality and simply, a bouquet of fresh flowers. It was mouthwatering, with low acidity, that same fresh fruit and balance.

2017 Caro Domaines Barons De Rothschild Lafite and Nicolas Catena

74% Malbec and 26% Cabernet Sauvignon

Dr Catena said that Malbec softens Cab, and that she had researched this idea and learned that this is “a historical blending.” Had this wine a few weeks earlier in a Zoom with Caro, and this is an excerpt of my notes: This is a limited production wine, comes from “specific sub divisions of terroir”, and since they don’t make it every year it’s scarce. I found a beautiful nose filled with lots of dark fruit, spice, tobacco and dark chocolate. Drawn in for a taste I got a rich spicy mouthfeel and that same luscious dark fruit.

2016 Travaglini Gattinara DOCG

100% Nebbiolo

13.5% alcohol

Massimo Collauto, winemaker

93 points, Wine Advocate

Just as I had recalled from tasting a year ago, this wine does not disappoint. Filled with earth, plum, dried red currant, pipe smoke and chocolate covered cherries all on the nose. The taste, ah, is balanced dry dark fruit – blueberry and blackberry – including stems and brambles.

2017 Trimbach Riesling Reserve

91 points by Wine Spectator and James Suckling.

A dry – not sweet – Riesling, with crisp apple, citrus and minerality reminiscent of standing by a cool lake – all on the nose. The taste was all beautifully ripe fruit. I paired this later in the evening with a rich vanilla ice cream with ribbons of lemon puree.

Social Media Contacts

Taub Family Selections

Instagram: @taubfamilyselections Facebook: @TaubFamilySelections Twitter: @TFSelections

Trimbach

Instagram: @trimbach, @annetrimbachalsace Facebook: @maisontrimbach Twitter: @trimbach

Jean-Luc Colombo

Instagram: @vinscolombo, @laurecolombo Facebook: @vinsjeanluccolombo Twitter: @vinscolombo

Travaglini

Instagram: @travaglinigattinara, @alessia.c.travaglini Facebook: @www.travaglinigattinara.it

Bodegas Caro

Instagram: @bodegascaro, @lauracatenamd Facebook: @bodegasCARO

Travaglini Gattinara – Nebbiolo in Northern Piedmont – at Angelini Osteria

September 20, 2019 by evebushman

Recently at Angelini Osteria a group of wine writers were invited to an intimate wine tasting and luncheon hosted by Cinzia Travaglini, owner of Travaglini Winery, and her daughter Alessia Collauto Travaglini. Cinzia and Alessia belong to the third and fourth generation of the Travaglini family – a renowned producer of traditional, limited production wines made in the tiny appellation of Gattinara in northern Italy’s esteemed Piedmont region.

Cinzia and Alessia will share their full U.S. range alongside a carefully designed menu, including current releases of Gattinara and Gattinara Riserva, as well as, Tre Vigne – a blend of Nebbiolo grapes from three historic vineyard sites made only in the best vintages, and Il Sogno – a unique appassimento wine, together with a few special, older vintages.

Wine and Tasting

So excited to taste the portfolio of “one of Italy’s most recognizable wines and the #1 selling Gattinara in the world.” The first thing that struck me, besides meeting the amazing mother-daughter team and before my first taste of anything was the shape of the bottles. Misshapen, like a Chateauneuf Du Pape, but with a slightly rounded front, flat back and sides, except for one notch that holds the thumb perfectly for pouring. We later learned that they designed the bottle in 1958 with the idea of both a decanter shape and one that catches sediment. No other winery has adopted their design.

Cinzia talked about the volcanic soil in the Gattinara area, its proximity to the Alps, “more fresh” weather and how each of these elements contributes to the elegance in the wine. She said it was easy to drink with all foods – which we would soon learn for ourselves.

Alessia explained that her grandfather planted vineyards in the 1920s, with a focus on quality over quantity. They produce 20 thousand cases per year.

Nebole 2013 – aromas and flavors separated by ;

We were greeted with a taste of their sparkling wine that was made from 100% Nebbiolo – as were all of the wines we were to taste – that had been vinified into a white wine. Lemon zest, talcum powder, white flower; bruised yellow apple, sawdust, lively with medium acid.

Nebbiolo Coste Della Sesia DOC 2017

Aged four months in stainless steel followed by 10 months in Slovenian oak. Can be drunk after 2 years or 40. Rose petal, stewed tomatoes, dry earth; dry red fruit, tannic, oak and a long finish.

Gattinara DOCG 2015

After stainless steel fermentation the wine underwent two years on Slovenian oak casks of different sizes. Earth, spice, dried red cherries, tree bark, barnyard; small red berries, dry, tobacco.

Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2013

Three vineyard blend, aged four years in Slovenian oak after initial time in stainless. However, for that last fourth year, 20% is aged in barrique. The wine is later blended together and then rests for an additional 10 months in bottle. Earth, grilled mushroom, incense, crushed red fruit; got that same red fruit and mushroom on the palate, gritty, dry with a long finish.

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2013

35-60 year old estate vines, aged three years in different sized barrels of Slovenian oak, then rests in bottle for an additional year. Floral, aromatic, milk chocolate; spice, red fruit and bright.

Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2009

These last three wines may have been my favorites of the tasting. This one, a 2009 and the 2006 that follows, definitely surprised me and I commented to Cinzia how remarkably different the aromas and flavors were between the older wines and their younger siblings. I also learned from Cinzia – after I mentioned this – that these two were “considered great vintages.” 35-60 YO vines, three years in Slovenian oak and one year in bottle. Plum, bark, dark chocolate, brown sugar; layered dark fruit, tobacco, dusty and lingering.

Gattinara Tre Vigne DOCG 2006

The second “great vintage” wine came from three different estate vineyards, four years in Slovenian oak, 20% held back in barrique for the final year, then blended back in with the rest of the wine and rests in bottle for 10 months. Blueberry, blackberry, perfumy, toasted wood; plums, slightly sweet with a beautiful balance of dusty fruits and tannins.

Il Sogno 2014

100 days of drying out leaving only 50% of the water in the grapes, 40 months in Slovenian oak, in bottle for 10 months rest. The highest % of alcohol in the line-up with 15.5. Fleshy red fruit, stems, earth, mint; slightly sweet, chocolate covered black cherry, easy to drink with lots of lovely berries and tannin.

The Menu

There was no specific pairing for the foods and the wine. We had three wines per course, per se, to try. I found that the younger lighter wines were perfect with the tomato and cheese course and the Branzino, while the older reds were outstanding with the lasagna and steak. I had to agree with Cinzia, the wines paired well with all types of foods. This is the full menu:

FIRST COURSE

Insalata Caprese, Market Tomatoes, Fresh Burrata, Aged Balsamic, Basil. (Healthy portion of cheese and we all inhaled this dish.)

SECOND COURSE

Pasta Duo: Bombolotti all Norma, Eggplant, Tomato, Basil, Dried Ricotta.

Lasagna Verde “Omaggio Nonna Elvira”, Beef and Veal Ragu.

(This was truly to die for. As I’m writing this I’ve just finished the leftovers they packed up for me. I will never want plain lasagna again.)

THIRD COURSE

Choice of: Grilled Branzino Filet, Chopped Tomatoes, Sautéed Mixed Vegetables.

Grilled Organic Chicken, Roasted Potatoes, Spinach.

Grilled Hanger Steak, Arugula, Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

(I shared the fish and steak with a couple of other people but missed out on the chicken. The fish was so delicate and so wonderful with the younger reds as I stated earlier, and the steak was delectable with the older reds. I linger over this in my mind now…)

PER FINIRE

Selection of Cheeses.

Housemade Biscotti.

(I had to skedaddle on the road so I missed this finale. I saw photos and heard from other writers in attendance that both the cheeses and the desserts were incredible.)

Photos of the food and wine here.

About Travaglini

Driven by a passion for exceptional Nebbiolo, the Travaglini family has been producing remarkable, limited- production wines in Gattinara for four generations. The Travaglini family has owned land in Gattinara since the beginning of the 19th century. The family’s winemaking tradition started with Clemente Travaglini, who was succeeded by his son Arturo, however, it was not until 1958 when Arturo’s son, Giancarlo, took the helm that the Travaglini Estate Winery was established as it exists today.

Today, the Travaglini family owns 146 acres of vineyards, 128 of which are dedicated to vines, primarily Nebbiolo, covering roughly 50% of total vineyards within the Gattinara DOCG. This small appellation lies in the rocky foothills of the Monte Rosa range, where ventilating winds blow down from the nearby Alps. Soils are rocky and rich in porphyry, granite and iron. Similar in composition to the Alps, Monte Rosa’s sedimentary rock is highly acidic, due to low levels of calcium carbonate and magnesium, and an absence of calcium. Vines grown in this rare soil produce grapes with a unique flavor profile, high acidity and firm tannins. The finished wines offer refreshing acidity, soft tannins, minerality and complexity.

https://www.travaglinigattinara.it/en/winery/

About Angelini Osteria

Gino Angelini has become known as simply everyone’s favorite Italian chef in Los Angeles, winning over the city with his authentic dishes. The Angelini brand has evolved into three divisions: dining, catering and products.

In 2001, Gino Angelini and his wife Elizabeth opened Angelini Osteria, an Italian restaurant in Los Angeles. Since opening, Angelini Osteria has become one of LA’s most celebrated restaurants. The Osteria has blazed the trail for many Italian dishes in Los Angeles, including its famous Linguine Sea Urchin and the sought after Spaghetti Norcina. To this day the Osteria remains family owned and controlled.

The Angelini’s partnered with 17-year veteran employee, Girolamo Rindone, to open a classic Italian bar, Angelini Alimentari. Angelini Alimentari is a gourmet fast-casual dining concept featuring light California-Italian inspired breakfast, lunch and dinner fare with an focus on pickup and delivery.

https://www.angelinirestaurantgroup.com/angelini-osteria

Learning About and Tasting 2015 Barolo, Plus the WhyNot Wine Saver

August 23, 2019 by evebushman

As a member of the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), having taken a few classes and a certification (see footer), we are often offered instruction that include unique tasting experiences and lectures. In this class, my first and long overdue one on Barolo wines, we would be treated to a lecture from the president of NASA, Diego Meraviglia. We were also treated to a showcase of a new wine preservation system called WhyNot.

My own history tasting Barolo wasn’t too good. Ed invested in a few and at each tasting, as they aged 10 years or so, I wasn’t happy with the dark tannins and fruit. I knew the wine needed more time in our cellar – many at or past the 20-year mark – but wanted to understand more about the grape, so that my appreciation might help me at the next tasting. I pulled about six bottles from our cellar after this course, see my social media if you want to know which, and further down the road, how the tastings went. For now, let’s get started on what we learned.

From NASA:

A grape, Nebbiolo, that “feeds on fog”…a land, the Langhe, that is protected by the United Nations as a UNESCO world heritage site…a wine, BAROLO DOCG, that has a centuries old reputation for being “the king of wines & the wine of kings”…and a vintage, 2015, that is hailed as one of the best in the past decades.

According to James Suckling: “Two-thirds of the 350+ Barolo 2015s we tasted in this list scored 93 points or above, establishing this vintage as one of the best of the decade. You’ll find the tasting notes for 2015 Barolo awash with superlatives. It’s a great year, clearly the best since 2010, perhaps better. Buy some and see for yourself.”

BAROLO is not only known for its complexity, elegance and structure…but also for its world renowned reputation for cellaring potential. It is consistently one of the wines that holds its own on an open bottle for days and days, some would say, improving every 24 hours.

Before the class began the representatives from WhyNot Wine Saver did a short presentation. We learned that the unit’s use of nitrogen gas promises to keep a bottle of wine fresh for eleven months, important for a restaurant, wine bar or winery that serves pours and by the glass. The cork is removed with a special closed “changer” and a plug, in a “nitrogen-filled environment” is inserted. The bottle can then be put upside down into the WhyNot unit; the desired amount is dispensed in the glass through a “shooter” that keeps nitrogen from wine glass.

Barolo Lesson

There was a lot to learn about Barolo. I have some photos here; if you want a closer look at each slide for a clearer lesson email me:

Made from the Nebbiolo grape in Piemonte, aka Piedmont, Italy.

“Nebbia” means fog and was given the root of the word Nebbiolo as it’s a late ripener and harvested in autumn, sometimes as late as October.

Known to be difficult and stubborn to cultivate, medium-thick skinned, high in tannins and acidity so they have a long aging capability/need.

It is known as the most ancient varietal in all of Italy, first documented in 1266.

93% of the vineyards are on hillsides, 70% red and 30% white.

The center of the appellation is the town of Barolo.

Barolo is considered the “big brother” to Barbaresco.

The flavor of the wine depends on many things, including the terrain: Elveziano (Helvetian) wines are more robust, structured, high in tannins and longevity. The Tortoniano (Tortonian) produces a lighter, more elegant, fast maturation and less longevity. A true Barolo lover would know from which areas they prefer the flavor profile from, and purchase accordingly.

On the 2015s: We tasted a few of the new wines, opened up for at least an hour. I could tell the difference in aromas and flavors between the different terrains, and did appreciate both. Diego explained that the 2015s were going to be amazing in ten years as opposed to waiting 30-40 years. The weather in 2015 created less stress factors, fewer grapes, shorter vintage and less volume. This all contributed to giving the wines “great concentration, flavor and power.” Tannins and unripe flavors have been a common complaint of previous years, not for the 2015s. Diego also believes prices will stay low on the 2015s.

Michelin Starred Chef Christophe Émé Presents KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant!

February 20, 2019 by evebushman

Los Angeles, CA – After twenty-five years as a powerhouse in the fine dining industry, Michelin starred and world-renowned Chef Christophe Émé is ready to uncork another side of his prowess by introducing KASS, a chic and welcoming wine bar and restaurant that offers a sophisticated yet approachable French Dinner Menu and unrivaled Wine List in a 40-seat dining room and bar stripped of pretention, but brimming with innovation and immaculate presentation. Situated on the most in-vogue strip on La Brea, KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant by Chef Christophe Émé officially opened Friday, February 1^st, 2019!

Chef Christophe Eme. Photo Credit- acuna-hansen

Growing up in France’s picturesque Loire Valley was the ideal backdrop for Chef Christophe Émé, who learned from an early age the joy of cooking in the kitchen. At the age of sixteen, Émé began an apprenticeship at the Hôtel de France in Angers before embarking on a journey that has propelled him across the globe, sharpening his skills at some of the world’s most prestigious restaurants with enough Michelin stars between them to form a constellation. From Auberge des Templiers, to Auberge de l’Eridan in the French Alps, to the opulent Taillevent, Émé has worked with such culinary legends as Gerard Rabaey, Marc Veyrat, Michel Rostang, Philippe Braun, and Philippe Legendre. Arriving in the United States in 2001, Émé made his way to Los Angeles as Executive Chef at the highly revered L’Orangerie where he challenged perceptions and French cooking technique by renouncing cream and butter sauces in favor of complex layered emulsions and natural jus. In 2005, Émé embarked on his first solo Los Angeles venture and opened the critically lauded Ortolan on West Third Street, where he showcased his impeccable haute cuisine. Shortly after Ortolan debuted in 2005, Émé was honored by Food & Wine as one of the “10 Best New Chefs” and subsequently earned a Michelin star in 2007. After setting a higher standard for the next generation of French restaurants, Émé is now moving in a new direction by introducing KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant.

Wine Consultant Taylor Parsons (Whole Cluster Consulting, République, Spago, Mozza, Campanile) curated the KASS Wine List. “This is a tightly focused wine list created with the purpose to provide pleasure and not intimidation, with wines that serve the neighborhood and the cuisine of Émé.” says Parsons. Thoughtfully overseen by KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant Sommelier and Manager Kyley Jacoby, the KASS Wine List is comprised of seventy percent French Wines, with an emphasis on the Loire Valley in honor of Émé’s home region, with the remaining thirty percent made up of varietals ranging from France, Europe, and California. Designed for connoisseurs and novices alike, the Wines by the Glass are available to sip and swish, beginning with effervescent Sparkling section including the Jacky Blot, Montlouis Brut ‘Tradition’ Loire Valley NV or the Laherte Freres, Extra Brut ‘Ultradition’ Champagne NV. The single Pink offering stands poised and proud, the Vinca Minor, Carignan Rosé Sonoma County 2017, while the White section offers an array of global choices beginning with the Domaine Daulny, Sancerre Loire Valley 2017; the German Andi Knauss, White Blend ‘Boutanche’ Württemberg 2017, or the Frantz Chagnoleau Macon-Villages La Carruge Burgundy 2016, while the Domaine Dupasquier, Roussette de Savoie, Savoie 2013 rounds off the white wines by the glass. The Red section starts with a trio from France, kicking-off with the Jean-Marc Burgaud, Morgon Côte du Py, Beaujolais 2017, a Loire Valley 2016 Domaine Filliatreau, Saumur-Champigny ‘La Grande Vignolle’, and a Domaine de Majas, VdP Côtes Catalanes Carignan Blend Roussillon 2017, before heading over to the Piedmont region of Italy to enjoy a 2016 Brovia, Dolcetto d’Alba ‘Vignavillej’ and the 2016 Piedrasassi, Syrah ‘PS’ from Santa Barbara County. While sharing delectable dishes with good company, the Wines by the Bottle offer an ideal respite to relax and unwind, beginning with Sparkling Wines in two significant categories: Champagne and Not Champagne, followed by a respectable selection of Pink Wine, and a vast library of White Wine that is categorized as Energetic, Fruity, and Muscular, with an equally impressive variety of Red Wine, categorized by dominant notes Bright, Juicy, Earthy and Plush, and a boutique selection Sweet & Fortified Wine.

Chef Émé utilizes his near thirty years of expertise to present a concise, but yet approachable KASS Dinner Menu featuring appetizers and entrées, which will experience weekly variant twists curated by Émé, depending on the availability of fresh, seasonal ingredients from the local Farmers Market. Guests will have the pleasure of watching Émé directly in his element in the open kitchen, along with his condensed, but highly skilled team, with a window perfect for awestruck onlookers. The ever-evolving KASS Dinner Menu will feature dishes such as the Salad of Baby Beets with black lentils and aged Comté; the Oxtail Parmentier made with marrow bone and Burgundy truffles; the Farro Risotto, accompanied by celery root, kale, and Morel mushrooms, and the Chicken Cooked in Clay served with wild mushroom sauce and green asparagus. Dessert will include delectable treats, like the silky Chocolate Tart accompanied by chocolate sorbet. Ever the artiste, Émé showcases every dish like a work of art, be the canvas the Pordamsa porcelain plateware, which showcases a mimicry of patterns and textures found in nature, or the Shichirin Hida Konro, a miniature Japanese portable charcoal grill and the black slate cutlery. Whatever the vessel, presentation will be at the forefront alongside flavor and technique.

A clean, contemporary space designed by Émé with assistance from Annie May of Kuskin / May Designs, harmonizes between warm and cool neutrals and the perfect balance between natural and manmade materials. Warm enough to be inviting, but cool enough to retain a sleekness, this stylishly inviting space offers guests three atmospheric experiences: The Wine Bar, where cheese, charcuterie and oysters are the perfect accompaniment to wine offerings and spirited conversation, and the Dining Room which offers plush banquette seating ideal for intimate and vibrant gatherings alike. The Outdoor Patio welcomes guests with cozy woven rattan nest chairs and low tables perfect for enjoying a bottle of wine, enclosed by a wood plank façade, mimicking a Japanese hinoki, successfully encapsulating KASS guests away from the bustling street. “KASS is an involved experience; I want guests to come in for the atmosphere as much for the wine and the food,” says Émé.

With an ever-expanding array of top eateries such as République, Sugarfish, Sycamore Kitchen, Odys + Penelope, and trendsetting shopping destinations like American Rag, Best Made, Champion, Undefeated, Kelly Cole USA and Aether Apparel, KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant by Chef Christophe Émé is a chic, sophisticated and welcoming new addition to this bustling street that offers an approachable French dinner menu and unparalleled wine list, in a lively setting!

KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant is open for Dinner every Tuesday through Saturday from 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm, and every Sunday from 6:00 pm to 9:30 pm. The KASS Wine Bar is open every Tuesday through Saturday from 5:00 pm to 12:00 Midnight, and every Sunday from 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm. For reservations, please visit KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant Yelp Reservations or call KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant directly at 323.413.2299.

Please follow KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant on Instagram @kassrestaurant or on Facebook

KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant

320 South La Brea Avenue

Los Angeles, CA 90036

T: 323.413.2299

Jeff Porter and Friends Hit the Road With “Sip Trip”

October 18, 2018 by evebushman

NEW YORK (PRWEB) – Jeff Porter, beverage director of the Bastianich Group and one of the most influential sommeliers in the US for fine Italian wine, together with I.E.E.M. (http://www.ieemusa.com) and Colangelo & Partners (http://www.colangelopr.com), has created ‘Sip Trip,’ a new Web-based show that will give Italian wine lovers an up-close & personal view into some of Italy’s top wineries and wine regions. The Sip Trip crew ─ which includes Jeff accompanied by two wine pros and a journalist from leading wine and spirits website, Vinepair (http://www.vinepair.com) ─ hits the road this November and December with stops in Piedmont (the Asti and Nizza Consortia, Renato Ratti, Pio Cesare and Fontanafredda), the Veneto (Masi, Zenato), Lombardy (Ca’ del Bosco), Tuscany (the Brunello Consortium and Castello di Monsanto), Umbria (Falesco), Le Marchè (Ciù Ciù) and Campania (Mastroberardino).

Photo: You Tube

“The concept for Sip Trip is simple: I travel to Italy’s greatest wineries and wine regions with two top Sommeliers, drink great wine, interview interesting people and explore the culture and history of Italy. What could be better than that?” explains Jeff. The tone of Sip Trip will be fun and informative. Jeff and friends will tell compelling stories of great wines, estates and regions in their historical and cultural context while avoiding technical wine jargon and repeated shots of swirling wine glasses.

“Americans love Italy and Italian wine but don’t have access to the places Jeff will visit and the people he’ll meet,” says Marina Nedic, founding partner of I.E.E.M. “Sip Trip will allow viewers to vicariously experience these beautiful places and leading Italian wine personalities.”

The Italian road trip will be bookended by a trip across America by Jeff and Somm friends during which he’ll drink the great wines he tasted in Italy with more Somms in the US. “We want to share our love for Italy and Italian wine with as many wine industry pros and wine enthusiasts as we can touch, whether in a tasting or digitally,” said Gino Colangelo, owner of Colangelo & Partners. “Jeff is the perfect host for this. He knows what he’s talking about technically and he can speak to wine lovers at all levels of knowledge.”

The first Sip Trip episodes will begin airing in the Spring of 2019. Currently, there are 12 episodes planned for Season 1.

About Jeff Porter

Originally from Texas, Jeff’s passion for wine started while at the University of Texas at Austin. He began his career at Central Market in Austin, Texas. After graduating, Jeff moved to California where he worked as a sales person for a wholesaler in the Bay Area. His sommelier career began in Napa Valley working at Tra Vigne Ristorante in St. Helena, California. He joined the Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group in 2009 at Osteria Mozza. In 2011 he moved to New York to become the wine director for Del Posto, and in 2014, Jeff became the Beverage Operations Director of the B&B Hospitality Group, overseeing the beverage programs for Babbo, Del Posto, Esca, Lupa, Otto, Babbo Pizzeria & Enoteca in Boston, MA, and the group’s newest restaurant, La Sirena at the Maritime Hotel.

About I.E.E.M.

I.E.E.M.: (International Event & Exhibition Management), the Miami-based branch of I.E.M. (International Exhibition Management), is a comprehensive agency specializing in marketing, events production and public relations for the wine industry. Driven by a passion for trade shows and a flair for flawless organization, I.E.M. was founded in 1999 by industry veterans Giancarlo Voglino and Marina Nedic. A reputation for reliably delivering high-quality events, coupled with its extensive network of wine trade professionals and international media, places IEEM/IEM among the most highly regarded Italian wine event organizers in the world. Learn more by visiting http://www.ieemusa.com.

About Colangelo & Partners

Colangelo & Partners (http://www.colangelopr.com) specializes in premium food, wine and spirits, and has long established relationships with the key press that drive these business categories and help determine the industry leaders. Agency principals have years of experience in retail and distribution as well as communications, a rare combination that gives Colangelo & Partners invaluable insights into consumer purchasing behavior. The agency focuses on ‘closing the loop’ between creative communications programs, distribution, promotion, publicity and the consumer in order to maximize the efficiency of its communications programs and deliver measurable results. Founded in 2006, Colangelo & Partners was honored as one of the year’s top integrated communications firms at the 2013 Agency Elite Awards and for one of the best digital marketing campaigns at the 2014 Digital PR Awards.

AWARD-WINNING CHEF AND SOMMELIER JOIN DUVINE FOR EPICUREAN BIKE TOURS

June 8, 2014 by evebushman

DuVine Cycling + Adventure Co. has teamed up with award-winning New York chef, Seamus Mullen, and celebrated Santa Barbara sommelier, Eric Railsback, to offer travelers the exclusive opportunity to travel with accomplished epicureans on a luxury bike tour in Europe. Seamus Mullen will be hosting DuVine’s Chef on Wheels Piedmont Bike Tour from August 17-22, 2014 and Eric Railsback will be joining DuVine’s Sommelier on Wheels Burgundy Bike Tour from August 31-September 5, 2014. These palate pleasing adventures are the latest in DuVine’s innovative On Wheels series of bike tours that pairs elite chefs, sommeliers and authors with travelers looking to deeply immerse themselves in the regional delights of the world’s most amazing destinations.

In Piedmont, Seamus Mullen will join travelers in exploring the scenic, vine-covered ridgelines, famous Barolo, Barbera, and Barbaresco wines, and the rich cuisine of Italy’s gourmet capital. From selecting fresh ingredients at the local markets of Acqui Terme to preparing a meal alongside the chef during an exclusive cooking class, this tour will provide travelers with unforgettable foodie moments, as well as the chance to work off the calories with bike rides through the countryside. Travelers will savor the opportunity to learn from this celebrated chef, whose career includes opening the acclaimed New York restaurant Tertulia, being a finalist on Food Network’s The Next Iron Chef, and publishing his Hero Food cookbook. For more details on Seamus Mullen and DuVine’s Chef on Wheels Piedmont bike tour, visit: http://www.duvine.com/tours/1649/Chef-on-Wheels-Piedmont-Bike-Tour.

In Burgundy, Eric Railsback, partner of the award-winning Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant in Santa Barbara, will lead wine enthusiasts on a journey inside the region’s world-famous and notoriously private Grand Cru & Premier Cru Vineyards. After a day of cycling through Burgundy’s gently rolling hills and charming villages, travelers will sample elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines during private tastings and carefully paired gourmet meals. Lively conversation with fellow connoisseurs, including Food & Wine Magazine’s 2014 Sommelier of the Year, Eric Railsback himself, is sure to leave travelers with full-bodied memories to last a lifetime. For more details on Eric Railsback and DuVine’s Sommelier on Wheels Burgundy bike tour, visit:http://www.duvine.com/tours/1639/Sommelier-on-Wheels-Burgundy-Bike-Tour.

In addition to the chef and sommelier hosts, each tour will be led by two experienced DuVine guides with strong local connections. From providing van support to sharing their firsthand local knowledge and boundless passion of their region, these guides will make sure every detail of every trip goes above and beyond expectations. Also included in the cost of the trip are all wine tastings, cooking classes, gourmet meals, and entrance to historic sites as outlined in each itinerary, as well as luxurious, boutique accommodations, top of the line bicycle selection, complimentary pre- and post-travel planning assistance, gratuities for baggage, porters, and hotel service, and DuVine’s beloved Bike / Eat / Drink / Sleep gear.

To ensure travelers have ample opportunity to interact and learn from their elite chef and sommelier hosts, as well as have access to the region’s most authentic experiences, the group size on tour will not exceed 14 travelers. Due to this limited space, interested travelers are encouraged to secure their space as soon as possible.

About DuVine Cycling + Adventure Co.
Since 1996, DuVine Cycling and Adventure Company has designed and led luxury bike trips in the world’s most amazing places – from the rolling hills of Tuscany and storied medieval villages of Provence to the Andean foothills of Argentina’s wine country and the lush vineyards of Sonoma. DuVine travelers learn that biking is the very best way to travel and experience authentic local culture. DuVine’s seasoned guides call on their extensive local knowledge to provide travelers with a meaningful, substantive connection to their region and ample opportunities to take part in the fabric of real life. The ultimate goal is to consistently amaze, surprise, and delight guests with unparalleled experiences and a myriad of thoughtful touches. Intimate group sizes, not exceeding 14 travelers on standard, public departures, offers the flexibility to customize every departure to meet each traveler’s needs. Outrageously satisfying food and drink and stunning luxury accommodation complete DuVine’s carefully curated experiences.

Gregory Alonzo: Piedmont’s Hidden Treasures

August 30, 2012 by evebushman

The region of Monferrato, Italy is a spectacular expanse of rolling hills and vast vineyards. This is the fabled area of Piedmont. A wine region that has been extensively celebrated in the arts and literature.

On hot days in Monferrato, what white wines do the locals drink? The answer is quite simple, they seldom, if ever, drink white wine. Piedmontese prefer red wines such as Grignolino, Ruche, Verduno Pelaverga, and Freisa. Drinking a white wine is just unseemly.

Today, my friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto and I will be exploring the wonderful, but little known wines of this region. Rest assured that these wines can be found in the States, however, it may take some searching. Rather than dwell on particular wineries or vintages, we have decided to cover the general characteristics of these wines and make some recommendations. We welcome you to share your insights as you discover the hidden treasures of Piedmont.

Grignolino (green-yo-lino) in the local dialect means “many pips.” The grape varietal is popular when making light colored wines and roses. The alcohol content is typically low at 11-12%. Rest assured that these wines have strong acidity and tannins.

“I also like the floral notes, fruity aromas of citrus, and just a hint of spice.” Serena was quick to add. “The wine is very dry and tastes of red raspberries.”

“It is also interesting that for a such a light wine, Grignolino has plenty of structure and a long finish,“ I added with a nod of approval.

In the days when Piedmont was still a kingdom, Grignolino was a favorite of royalty. The King of Savoia was quite fond of drinking Grignolino and preferred it to all other wines served at his table. By the end of the 19th century this wine was considered one of Piedmont’s best. Today Grignolino has improved in quality and is steadily gaining in popularity. It is often considered Piedmont’s most delicate wine.

Both Serena and I recommend a 2009 Castillo di Nelve. Priced at $15, it is classic in style and from 25 year old vines. This wine pairs quite nicely with pasta and all basic Italian dishes.

Our next wine is Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato and it is grown exclusively in the hills of Monferrato. In order to be labeled Ruche, the wine must be comprised of 90% Ruche grapes. The other 10% is open to any combination of Barbera or Brachetto. This produces a fragrant and slightly floral wine. Ruche is pale-red in color with a tannic profile and depth of flavor. It has medium body with a delicate, velvety taste.

“I would also add that there are notes of tart berries, black plums, and sweet spices that distinguish Ruche,” Serena gave a nod of approval.

The Ruche grape is something of an enigma even in Piedmont. There are conflicting tales of this grape varietal. One such story is that Ruche is originally from France and was brought to Piedmont several hundred of years ago. Serena, like all good Piedmontese, is insistent that Ruche is an indigenous vine. Whatever the truth, Ruche has begun making its way out of Monferrato. Over the past decade Ruche has been well received by all who have enjoyed this limited production wine.

Ruche compliments salami, roasted veal, and aged cheeses. Serena also recommends serving Ruche with the classic Piedmont dish, tagliolni with white truffles.

Priced at about $25, both Serena and I recommend a 2006 La Mondianese Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato.

Verduno Pelaverga or simply Verduno is a red wine native to Piedmont. Pelaverga is a rare, dark-skinned grape varietal that produces pale strawberry-scented wines. So why haven’t you heard of this obscure grape? Verduno is in the Barolo region and just a few hills over from the famed Barolo site of La Morra. Unfortunately this splendid grape gets over-shadowed by Piedmont’s renown Barolo, the “King of wine and wine of kings.”

Pelaverga has a long history in Piedmont. The grapes date back to the 15th century. However, in those days Pelaverga was used primarily as a blending grape. The name also brings up some interesting questions. Literally translated, it means “branch peeler.” Serena presumes the name has something to do with a viticultural practice of how to train the vine.

Here’s an interesting thought. “Verga” is the Spanish word for the male genitalia. Considering that the local people of Verduno claim that the grape is an aphrodisiac, I postulate …”

“Oh Gregorio,” Serena broke in with a more than amused laughter. “More like wishful thinking.”

“Unfortunately, you are probably correct. Two glasses later, and nothing.”

“Cin cin,” Serena heartily toasted me.

Overall, Verduno Pelaverga’s profile is a savory floral wine. It is lithe in acidity and weight, yet poignant in depth. There is just enough tannin to pair perfectly with smoked meats and slightly aged cheeses.

“Or a truffle risotto,” Serena added. “I would also serve Verduno with just the slightest chill.”

Both Serena and prefer the 2006 Pelaverga Basadone. This is a most enjoyable wine at about $20. Incidentally, “Baciadonne” in Italian translates as “the lady killer.”

Our final selection is Freisa (Fray-zah). It is a blue-black grape indigenous to Piedmont. These vigorous grapes are harvested in early October and the red wines produced are somewhat sweet and lightly sparkling.

Dating back to the 18th century, most Piedmontese agree that the varietal originated in the hills between Asti and Turin. By the 1880’s, Freisa had become one of the major grapes of the region. Today, Freisa is grown widely around the Monferrato area.

Freisa is an interesting variety which typically shows a wild-raspberry scent, some ripe strawberries with distinct earthy notes which add interest. There is a slight astringent, tart flavor to the wine’s profile that is slightly reminiscent of Dolcetto. Wines made for export tend to be on the lighter side, softly sweet, and slightly fizzy. Freisa is a very refreshing wine that is popular for sipping on those long summer days.

Serena and I recommend a 2004 Casaccia Vigna Monfiorenza. It can be served slightly chilled and pairs nicely with a variety of cheeses.

The wines we shared today are some of gems Piedmont. Rest assured that there are many more hidden treasures to be discovered. This is an ancient land with a colorful history that dates back before the Romans. A land that will never cease to amaze even the most discerning palates.

“Serena, earlier you mentioned Piedmont’s renown dish, tagliolni with white truffles.”

“If you are hungry,” she flashed me a beaming smile. “I know just the place.”

But that my friends is another story …

Somm Gregory Alonzo: Dolcetto Dogliani … My Daily Drinker

August 23, 2012 by evebushman

Italy’s Piedmont region is surrounded on three sides by the majestic alps. From striking mountain peaks to rolling hills, long summer days, and refreshing nights, this is a land of noble of wines. In fact, Italy is a land of a multitude of wines. Over the years I have learned that the count ranges from 2000-3500. Oftentimes when I quote these numbers I am also reminded that only about 700 varietals are used to produce wines of repute.

Today I am joined by fellow sommelier and longtime friend, Serena Dutto. She is a graduate of Italy’s prestigious, Associazione Italia Sommelier (AIS). Serena invited me to her hometown of Dogliani, in the Cuneo region, to experience some of the local wines. Serena is also fluent in the local dialects of Piedmontese and Occitan. I know that the week will not only be filled with interesting wines, but a strong dose of local history and Serena’s flair for the lifestyle of Piedmontese.

From our terrace view of the Osteria Vineria il Torchio, we are free to enjoy the tranquility of this lovely town of less than 5000 people. Dogliani dates back to the 16th century, and wine cultivation in the surrounding hills, dates back to pre-Roman times. A time when the Etruscans were the dominate peoples.

“I love to sit here, drink wine, and thank God I returned home.” Serena quietly smiled.

“Come now, Rome could not have been all that bad,” I queried. “After all you were a sommelier in one of the “Eternal City’s” finest restaurants.

Serena patted me on the hand and changed the subject, “Let’s drink some wine.”

Sensing her discomfort and reluctance to further discuss the topic, I nodded in agreement. “Dolcetto?’

“Dolcetto Dogliani,” Serena was quick to correct me.

Dolcetto is a lovely wine that dates back to the late 16th century. It is a black wine grape varietal grown throughout the Piedmont region. The translation means “little sweet one.” I first discovered Dolcetto back in my university days at the Claremont Colleges. Unfortunately, I misunderstood the name, I assumed it was sweet. Since my date loved sweet wine, I thought I’d be a hit. She did not care for the wine and I did not fair much better. However, I found my daily drinker. Since then, I have been having a long running love affair with my “little sweet one.”

No one is quite sure how the name Dolcetto came about. Certainly not with regard to the wine’s sugar levels. Dolcetto is typically dry. The wine can be tannic and fruity, and drinks best after 1 to 2 years after release. Serena, along with the majority of the local population believe that the name Dolcetto is derived from the hills where the vine thrives.

“Gregorio,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “We need to explain to our readers why Dolcetto Dogliani is simply the best.”

When most Americans are first introduced to Dolcetto, oftentimes their first exposure is to the wines of D’Alba. Though this is area is renown for viticulture, the Dolcetto that is produced is just not as bold as the wines of Dogliani. Many of the wines of Dogliani are ‘Superiore.’ A designation that pertains to wines aged a minimum of 14 months. Wines from D’Alba are meant to be drunk young and are an excellent choice for pizza and pasta dishes.

“Ah, our food and our first wine has arrived.” Serena looked over our table ensuring that all was just as she instructed. To my delight, there was an array of salty cured meats, pungent cheeses, and Serena’s favorite, tajamin. This is a local pasta from Langhe, and found more often in homes rather than restaurants.

“What is our first selection?”

“I know you will be pleased with this one,” Serena smiled with anticipation. “A Romana Carlo 2003.” She then filled our glasses and toasted, “Cin cin. Did you know that this informal toast originates from the sound that the two glasses make when they are touched together?”

“But of course,” I smiled. “The wine is excellent. This single-vineyard Dolcetto is concentrated and juicy.”

“I agree, a most impressive wine. I especially like the way the raspberry and black cherry flavors have rounded out.”

I smiled in agreement. “An earthy wine indeed. The finely polished tannins and good palate length make for a sophisticated mouthfeel. The finish is strikingly long and textured with excellent depth of flavor. I’d say about 13.5%”

“Gregorio, I think you will be equally pleased with our second selection,” Serena was quick to present the bottle. “ A Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2003.”

This is a top-notch Dolcetto. Virtually every year the wines of Einaudi feature masses of bold dark fruit. Black cherries, plums, and some hints of spice.”

“I also pick up the hint of cinnamon and clove. There are also some tarry notes that I know you enjoy,” Serena smiled.

“This is a big , full-bodied tannic Dolcetto at 13% alcohol and drinks very well.”

“Luigi Einaudi is the oldest wine-making company in Dogliani. They have been making interesting wines since they bought the San Giancomo estate back in 1897.”

“Interesting,” I nodded in approval. “What is our final selection?”

“Our first wine would be priced at under $20 a bottle. My second choice would be closer to $30 per bottle. I decided to not concern myself with price on our final selection.”

Now I was intrigued. Sitting at the edge of my seat, I could hardly wait to see what Serena had selected for our enjoyment.

“I selected a Poderi Luigi Einudi 2006 I Filari.”

This is an exceptional expression of Dolcetto. The wine is filled with licorice and earthy aromas. The palate is somewhat intense and laced with boysenberry flavors that linger on the long finish. This wine is 14% alcohol and would definitely benefit from a couple of years of aging.

Being quite familiar with this wine I flashed Serena a quick smile. “Not overly expensive. I’d say about $45 a bottle.”

“Remember Gregorio, the average person is buying Dolcetto as a daily drinker or a wine to go with pizza and pasta,” Serena said flatly.

“True, but over the past decade Dolcetto has gained in repute.”

“Possibly, I just feel that someone who is interested in the wines of Piedmont will always think first of Barolo or possibly Barbaresco.” Serena’s tone bordered on insistent.

“You forget that as much as I love Barolo, I first discovered Dolcetto.”

Serena flashed me a quick grin. “I think you discovered Dolcetto before you could afford Barolo.”

Joining her merriment, I nodded in agreement. “Shall we make a move?”

“I feel like eating some torta dei tetti and introducing you to some of our more obscure local wines.”

“But that my friends is a different story …