One Bottle Post: 2017 Hourglass Red Blend

June 5, 2020 by evebushman

We visited Hourglass winery in 2017 and were so smitten with their wines that we put ourselves onto a wait list to get put onto their allocation list. Took a couple of years I think and now we are just getting into some of our new wines. Starting with the 2017s and their Napa Valley red blend. First I’ll share some notes from the winery, and then my notes on the wine.

Here is what vintner Jeff Smith said about their then-current 2017 harvest, “2017 was our 20th harvest! Doesn’t seem possible, yet here we are. We’ve learned a lot in 20 years and the journey is just getting started. Hourglass debuted during a time of profound change in Napa Valley. The 1990’s ushered in a radical stylistic shift toward high pH winemaking. A style pioneered by brave winemakers who dared go where they were schooled not to. Modernism was born and I’m proud to say we helped put an indelible stamp on it. In the ensuing years, we rode the pendulum swing of ripeness to its edges, and helped define the spectrum of stylistic choices Napa affords. In the process, we learned a great deal….” Read more here.

2017 Hourglass Red Blend, Napa Valley

14.5% alcohol

Color: blackberry, red cellophane edge, opaque.

Aroma: Ripe and juicy black cherries, dried plum, dark chocolate, green peppercorn, dusty, mushroom and sage.

Flavor: Dried red cherry, red to dark fruit again, cherry liqueur, black pepper, charred steak, drying tannin.

With food: Ed had made a simple Bolognese with ripe red tomatoes – giving it both a meaty and acidic flavor. After a few minutes in my glass, and with food, the wine became more layered, showing dry and dark fruit, pepper and lingering dark berries.

Conclusion: Probably should lay this one down a bit as the difference between having it alone and then in my glass longer, and with food, was remarkable for me. Betting more swirling and decanting would also work. (I tasted this in early April, a few weeks into the Coronavirus quarantine, when I was getting more than anxious for the good stuff.) I gave the wine 94 Eve points without food and 95 Eve points with.

“Hourglass. . . two vineyards, a winery and a compilation of estate wines: a vision unfolding.”

https://www.hourglasswines.com

https://www.facebook.com/pg/hourglasswine/

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

South African Wine Harvest Report 2020: Great Season, Remarkable Wines

June 4, 2020 by evebushman

NEW YORK (PRWEB) – South Africa’s 2020 wine grape crop will bring exceptional wines to consumers, following favorable conditions throughout the season. This according to the South African wine industry’s annual Wine Harvest Report 2020.

“Although it’s always important to take our diversity over 10 wine grape growing regions into account, the industry had a very good season overall, which we believe will bring great quality wines to consumers,” says Conrad Schutte, consultation service manager of the wine industry’s representative body Vinpro.

The 2020 wine grape crop is estimated at 1,487,991 tons, according to the latest estimate of industry body SAWIS (South African Wine Industry Information & Systems) on April 24, 2020. It is 8.2% larger than the 2019 harvest.

Weather conditions were favorable in general and the bunch numbers looked promising early in the season, but windy conditions during the set and sensitive berry growth stages resulted in smaller berries and a lighter crop. The season was also characterized by great variation between and even within the same vineyard blocks in areas that experienced dry conditions.

The Stellenbosch, Swartland, Cape South Coast, Paarl and Breedekloof regions all harvested more wine grapes than in 2019, with the Olifants River region almost returning to its normal production levels after being one of the regions hardest hit by the recent drought. The Klein Karoo region still struggles with the ongoing drought, also experienced in certain parts of the Robertson region, while frost damage resulted in great crop losses in the Northern Cape.

The COVID-19 scurry

Although the harvesting season kicked off around two weeks earlier than usual, the unexpected announcement of the COVID-19 lockdown, in effect from March 26, 2020, created a scurry among many producers to harvest the last grapes of the season and complete winemaking processes in cellars. Wine-related activities were initially prohibited, but Government made a last-minute concession which allowed for the harvesting and storage activities essential to prevent the wastage of primary agricultural goods during the lockdown. At the time, around 44,092 tons still needed to be harvested.

“With uncertainties during the announcement of the lockdown some producers decided to harvest the grapes without prejudice just to get it to the cellar, while others waited for optimal ripeness to ensure exceptional quality,” Conrad says.

Wine quality exceptional

“We are excited about the exceptional wines that will flow from the 2020 wine grape crop, with Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay leading the pack,” Conrad says. “The early cultivars showed very good acidity, and the color and tannin analyses in the red wines promise full wines with concentrated flavor profiles.”

The 2020 wine harvest – including juice and concentrate for non-alcoholic purposes, wine for brandy and distilling wine – is expected to amount to 276,377 gallons at an average recovery of 204.7 gallons per ton of grapes.

Ready to take our wines to the market

Following restrictions on both local sales and wine exports during South Africa’s COVID-19 lockdown, the industry was relieved that Government allowed for the export of alcoholic products from May 1, 2020, including transport to ports and airports, as well as related activities to prepare wine for exports such as bottling and labeling.

“As an industry we are grateful and relieved to be able to resume exports. This finally enables us to showcase our exceptional new 2020 vintage wines to trade, media and consumers around the world,” comments Siobhan Thompson, CEO of Wines of South Africa.

She continues, “We would like to thank all of our international networks of agents, importers and friends who have never wavered in their support of our wine and our people, despite the challenges we’ve faced as an industry.”

South Africa is the ninth biggest wine producer worldwide and produces about 3.3% of the world’s wine. The wine industry contributes $1.95 billion to the country’s gross domestic product (GDP) and employs nearly 300,000 people.

2019/20 Growing season

Most regions experienced a better post-harvest period than previous years. The leaves fell around the same time or later than usual, vines were healthier and producers had access to post-harvest irrigation water.

Sufficient cold units were accumulated during the winter to break dormancy, while rainfall varied across regions but was mostly below average.

With spring came mostly favorable conditions, which contributed to a somewhat earlier but even budbreak. The early growing season was especially known for good, homogenous shoot growth.

During summer, temperatures were moderate during the ripening period, with the absence of characteristic heat peaks. These conditions particularly bode well for the flavor retention in the grapes. Rainfall during the ripening period relieved pressure on water resources in some regions, while it resulted in a surge in diseases (downy mildew, sour rot and botrytis) and necessitated proper weed control in other areas.

Overview of regions:

Breedekloof
Slightly larger crop than in 2019, mainly driven by the occurrence of wind during berry growth, which had a negative effect on flowering and set.

Cape South Coast
Better yields than the previous season, thanks to favorable climatic conditions, the implementation of Guyot pruning systems, utilization of chemicals to break dormancy and amendments to fertilization programs.

Klein Karoo
Yet another small crop due to the ongoing drought and a shrinking area under vines.

Northern Cape
Lower than expected production, due to severe frost experienced at the end of October in the lower lying areas east of Upington.

Olifants River
A great year as vines are recovering well following the drought and the region had better water supplies than during the previous season.

Paarl
A better crop than in 2019, owing to beneficial post-harvest conditions, sufficient water for irrigation and moderate temperatures during ripening.

Robertson
Smaller yields due to water shortages in certain parts of the region, as well as smaller berries caused by wind during set, a decline in new plantings and the occurrence of botrytis and sour rot following rain in January.

Stellenbosch
A bigger wine grape crop than in 2019, thanks to good reserves being accumulated in the post-harvest period, rain during critical berry growth stages and moderate climate throughout the growing season.

Swartland
Bigger yields than in 2019, characterized by good bunch figures thanks to good post-harvest and winter conditions. Soil profiles were also supplemented well through late winter rainfall.

Worcester
Varying yields throughout the region, with producers recording a somewhat larger crop than in 2019.

See https://vinpro.co.za/ for the full harvest report per region.

About Wines of South Africa
Wines of South Africa (WOSA) is the organization representing all South African producers of wine who export their products. WOSA, which was established in its current form in 1999, has over 500 exporters on its database, comprising all the major South African wine exporters. It is constituted as a not-for-profit company and is totally independent of any producer, wholesaling company or government department but is recognized by the South African Export Council. WOSA’s mandate is to promote the export of all South African wines in key international markets including the United States.

Domaine Carneros’ Retiring CEO Eileen Crane Leaves a Legacy of Growth and Sustainability

May 24, 2020 by evebushman

Carneros, CA – CEO of Domaine Carneros and sparkling winemaker Eileen Crane is retiring this June after 33 years spent crafting wine with attention to detail in the cellar and vineyards with a dedication to sustainability. Her introduction of innovations such as the winery’s new electrical micro-grid, renewable energy systems, and packaging reuse programs garnered the winery and its team a host of accolades, most notably in 2019 when Domaine Carneros was honored with the California Green Medal Business Award. Crane will continue as lead sparkling winemaker through the 2020 harvest and cuvee blending, and leaves the company well-positioned to prosper in the coming years.

“Eileen has broken new ground with her approach to environmental and regenerative land use,” says Zak Miller, who will step into the role of sparkling winemaker at Domaine Carneros after a decade spent working side-by-side with Crane on the production of the winery’s luxury sparkling wines and alongside Pinot Noir winemaker TJ Evans. “She pioneered smart and sustainable initiatives at the winery—I can think of no better legacy to leave, especially now that climate change is challenging all wineries to become more self-reliant.”

Under Crane, Domaine Carneros emerged as one of the industry’s most forward-thinking brands. When Crane introduced solar power to the winery in 2003, it positioned Domaine Carneros as a pioneer in renewable energy production in the wine industry at large. Today, the new micro-grid allows the winery to continue production should California’s notorious seasonal fires force the statewide electrical grid to go dark. With fires often occurring during the harvest months, the system helps ensure smooth operations at a critical time. Miller stated, “Domaine Carneros will keep disruptions to a minimum thanks to Eileen’s foresight and anticipation of our energy needs.”

Such environmental planning and sustainable efforts paid off under Crane. Her packaging reuse plan saw employees reclaiming both inserts and cases for in-house purposes. And like many green initiatives, it ultimately helped add more “green” to the winery’s bottom line. With an annual reuse rate of 20-25%, Domaine Carneros employees helped save the company an average of $75,000 per year since the program’s inception in 2011.

Such employee involvement in sustainability programs is vital. Once again Crane was ahead of the curve by instituting an open-book management plan that all workers could see. The plan set measurable goals every three years, reevaluated annually, that encouraged employee involvement in managing the winery’s sustainability efforts. These include installing skylights to reduce electricity use, recycling bottles, corks, and foil, and introducing owl boxes in the vineyards.

“To tend to the vine is to do the right thing. I have a responsibility to my winery, my employees and the planet,” Crane says, summarizing her dedication and passion for winemaking. “It was an honor and a privilege to work with the Taittinger family for these past 33 years. I know Domaine Carneros will continue to be a leader in winemaking and regenerative practices.”

ABOUT DOMAINE CARNEROS

Founded in 1987, Domaine Carneros reflects the hallmark of its founder, Champagne Taittinger, in creating a vision of terroir-driven sparkling wine and preserving the quality tenets of the traditional method production. Located entirely within the Carneros AVA, between Napa and Sonoma counties, the six estate vineyards total approximately 400 acres with 125 acres planted to Chardonnay, 225 acres planted to Pinot Noir, with the remaining acres currently in development. The winery focuses on making ultra-premium Carneros sparkling wines largely estate grown and limited production Pinot Noirs.

Domaine Carneros’ château has become a landmark and symbol of the region. The architecture and interior design were inspired by the 18^th century Château de la Marquetterie, the historic Taittinger family residence in the Champagne region.

Why Every Quarantine-R Should Own a Bottle of Mezcal, By Gaston Martinez Founder of IZO Mezcal

May 13, 2020 by evebushman

Mezcal, named the ‘worlds’ most artisanal spirit by Maxim

“In my family and culture, Mezcal was always a symbol of celebration and the pure enjoyment of life,” owner or IZO Mezcal, Gaston Martinez. “Today, I am proud to share the clean, smooth flavor of this naturally-smoked agave – part of the long-standing heritage of my beloved hometown – with the world.”

Every sip tells a story, Tasting History

Each sip of Mezcal is a joyful celebration of both old and new: the centuries of local tradition behind it and the establishment of an environmentally-focused and community-centered legacy. Every batch of wild agave is hand-harvested from Durango ranches, slow-roasted in volcanic ovens, then fermented and distilled onsite for a locally-crafted product from start to finish. To ensure a lasting heritage and renewable resource for future generations, the IZO distillery relies on a solar-paneled water treatment system and a bee colony to help propagate the plants, tended for a full decade before reaching maturity.

Perfectly Balanced

Production process is meticulously controlled “from ground to glass,” ensuring a perfectly-balanced, passionately produced spirit that serves as a delicious sipping liquor or cocktail base. Discover the rich history behind the full-bodied IZO Agave Spirits collection, along with refreshing cocktail recipes, at www.IZOMezcal.com.

Health Benefits of Sipping Mezcal

Stimulating appetite
Promoting better digestion
Regulating blood sugar
Lowering cholesterol level
Gluten free
According to Organic Facts

Every step of the IZO Mezcal production process is meticulously controlled “from ground to glass,” ensuring a perfectly-balanced, passionately produced spirit that serves as a delicious sipping liquor or cocktail base. Discover the rich history behind the full-bodied IZO Agave Spirits collection at www.IZOMezcal.com.

IZO Mezcal offers:

Made from 100% hand-harvested, slow-roasted agave, every sip of IZO Mezcal Joven speaks to centuries of Mexican tradition
Produced sustainably right in the heart of rural Durango, according to centuries of tradition
Each sip of IZO Mezcal Joven is a joyful celebration of both old and new: the centuries of local tradition behind it and the establishment of an environmentally-focused and community-centered legacy
Every batch of wild agave is hand-harvested from Durango ranches, slow-roasted in volcanic ovens, then fermented and distilled onsite for a locally-crafted product from start to finish.
IZO pays respect to its point of origin, from the locally-sourced Onyx cap featured atop the bottle, to the elegant, minimalist design that allows the artisanal spirit within to shine. The entire production process from ground to glass is meticulously controlled to ensure a perfectly-balanced, slightly smoky Mezcal Joven, delicious alone or in cocktails

Toast every moment with the smooth, all-natural flavor of IZO Mezcal Joven, available at select Costco stores, liquor stores and online at IZOMezcal.com along with refreshing cocktail recipes.

Bordeaux En Primeurs Week Canceled but Château Malescasse Maintains Efforts to Achieve High Standards

May 10, 2020 by evebushman

BORDEAUX, FRANCE (PRWEB) – Despite the cumulation of the COVID-19 pandemic and the cancelation of the En Primeurs Week, Château Malescasse is continuing to focus on producing wine that earned the estate a “Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel” classification, propelling the domaine at the forefront of the Médoc’s most highly regarded properties.

The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc appellation announced a new three-tier classification system earlier this year and among 249 châteaux classified Crus Bourgeois, “Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel” has only been awarded to 14 selected properties. The “Exceptionnel ” level of the new classification requires quality standards and sustainable practices and the following of strict guidelines with technical procedures applied to the vineyard, the harvest method, bottling and quality assurance. Furthermore, the promotion of the wines is evaluated; from the presentation of the site and tourism offerings to distribution and international activities.

Over the past seven years, Château Malescasse has undergone a revolution; with changes to processes in the vineyard, winemaking practices as well as marketing efforts which contributed to earning this elite classification.

“We couldn’t be more proud of this distinction, it is the result of many years of dedicated work and a strong team effort. It is an honor to be recognized as one of the top properties in the Médoc,” said Alban Cacaret, Managing Director of Château Malescasse.

The vineyards were restructured in terms of soil, rootstock, clone and planting density, to operate in the same vein as the neighbouring Grands Crus Classés. The sustainable farming practices now center around preserving the existing biodiversity, the overall natural state of the vineyard environment and optimizing energy usage. Yields have been reduced and a rigorous grape selection process has been implemented, with only 50% used in the blend of the premier wine, compared to 80% in previous years.

All of the winemaking practices are focused on preserving the pureness of the fruit and are overseen by wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt. A new wine cellar was created with small volume oak barrels and concrete vessels enabling harvests of single vineyard plots.

As part of the continuous efforts to create a better experience for visitors on the estate, Château Malescasse has been fully restored: the winery and the charterhouse have been fully revamped to form a living, welcoming experience, inspired by the history of the estate and the neoclassical style of the finest houses of the Médoc. The property organizes public and private events and has become a dynamic and unmissable spot on the Bordeaux wine trail. It attracts visitors from around the world, looking to experience refinement and the French art of living.

About Château Malescasse: Owned by Vignobles Austruy since 2012, Château Malescasse has been crafting its signature Bordeaux wines in the Haut-Médoc between Margaux and Saint-Julien since the early 19th century. It acquired and maintained the Cru Bourgeois status since 2003 before obtaining the Exceptionnel distinction earlier this year. The château and gardens cover over 1.5 acres surrounded by 100 acres of vineyards.

About the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc:
The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc form the largest family of Bordeaux crus from some of the most prestigious appellations of the Left Bank. This family brings together vineyards with widely differing profiles and terroirs that satisfy a drastic set of requirements. Thanks to its yearly blind selection process, the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc guarantees consumers a standard of quality for every bottle that proudly bears the “Cru Bourgeois” label.

PROSECCO DOC: March Data confirms a Positive Trend in Line with the Consortium’s Forecast before the Pandemic

May 4, 2020 by evebushman

NEW YORK (PRWEB) – As of April 1, 2020, the available production of Prosecco DOC amounts to 2,217,000 hectoliters and, if necessary, an additional amount of 550,000 hl, which was stocked during the 2019 vintage as a reserve, can be added and bottled to face increased demand.

The current situation is therefore in line with the long-term estimates elaborated by the Consortium before the health emergency caused by Covid-19, and the reserve stock of Prosecco DOC will allow it to cover the demand of the market till the next harvest, should the production suffer a slowdown.

“At the moment, we are aware of the dramatic situation of some realities, particularly those producers with a short supply chain and those who do not operate with mass retailers. As a consortium, we want to express our solidarity and availability to evaluate possible solutions, but I don’t feel the need to generalize these situations to the whole denomination,” states Stefano Zanette. “I am very concerned about the rumors spread by some industry operators, who paint exaggerated scenarios for the sole purpose of ticking commercial conditions to their advantage, creating a damage to our whole system. These speculative actions are particularly deplorable, especially in the situation we are experiencing.”

Zanette states it clearly, “The situation is under control and the data confirms the expected trend; tapping into the stored reserve stock is a remote hypothesis at the moment: in a logic of long-term safeguarding of value, that wine will be made available only in the event of an actual need for the denomination and certainly not to favor the speculative actions of some operators.”

“In regards to the 2020 harvest, fertility is expected to be lower than the average of the last 10 years and many variables could still happen from now to September, such as late frosts or hailstorms.”

“It should also be considered that the main objective to aim for in a situation like this is market stability and the Consortium has all the legal tools to intervene and pursue market it.”

In other words, the Prosecco Doc Consortium, considers it to be premature to adopt restrictive measures to both the 2019 and 2020 production offers. However, if the situation does not get better in the next few months, they will intervene immediately and are ready to do so.

The Consortium Prosecco DOC appreciates the efforts made by the Mipaaf (Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies), regions and trade associations to handle this crisis. They are trying their best to provide market solutions and retrieve resources, considering the possible decline of the overall wine consumption in Italy due to the Coronavirus. It’s necessary to take measures to financially help those companies who were most affected by the coronavirus outbreak and, furthermore, to limit the products that are superfluous in the market. Hopefully such proaction will support valuable output and decrease less valued wine productions on a regional basis.

Finally, regarding promotion and enhancement strategies, under these circumstances, the responsible authorities should design financial tools to allow wineries and consortia to have the necessary liquidity to invest after the Covid-19 emergency is over, when those who will arrive first and will operate with greater momentum and energy will prevail among others.

About The Prosecco DOC Consortium:
Prosecco was granted the Controlled Designation of Origin status on July 17th, 2009, and the Prosecco DOC Consortium (Consorzio di Tutela della Denominazione di Origine Controllata Prosecco) was created on November 19th of the same year to coordinate and manage the Prosecco DOC. The organization unites the different groups of manufacturers—wineries, individual and associated vine-growers, still wine and sparkling wine producers—to ensure the designation continues to grow and that the production regulations are complied with.

About Prosecco DOC:
Prosecco DOC wines come in Spumante (sparkling), Frizzante (semi-sparkling) and Tranquillo (still) varieties. The wines are made from mainly the Glera grape, native to North East Italy for thousands of years, and can be combined with a maximum of 15% of the following grapes: Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Glera lunga, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Nero. Prosecco Frizzante and Spumante varieties get their famous bubbles using the Secondary Fermentation production method, bottled under high pressure after fermentation in bulk tanks called autoclaves, as opposed to the traditional method, which bypasses the autoclaves and is used for other sparkling wine varieties. The end result is a brilliant straw yellow wine with fine, persistent perlage and aromas of white flowers, apple and pear. It is fresh and elegant on the palate with moderate alcoholic strength. For more information regarding Prosecco DOC, visit http://www.casaprosecco.com.

Inglenook’s New Cave United with Existing Cave

April 25, 2020 by evebushman

RUTHERFORD, California – Francis Ford Coppola, proprietor of Inglenook, is pleased to announce that a significant milestone has been reached in the expansion of Inglenook’s cave network. The past February the tunneling crew broke through the wall that separated the existing labyrinth of caves from the new cave. The remarkable expansion of Inglenook’s caves, which currently house the wines as they age in barrel, started early last year during the celebration of Inglenook’s 140^thanniversary. The new cave will accommodate the addition of 120 new insulated stainless steel fermenting tanks, each dedicated to one of Inglenook’s 120 nuanced growing areas within the winery’s organically-farmed vineyards. The project is expected to be completed later this year, in time for the 2020 harvest.

“Along with my family, I am so pleased that we have reached this important milestone in the expansion of Inglenook’s cave,” said Coppola. “We take our stewardship of this esteemed winery very seriously. Since it was founded in 1879 by Gustave Niebaum, Inglenook has been renowned for its innovation, leadership, creativity and commitment to quality. We are dedicated to further elevating Inglenook’s stature with this vast cave expansion, led by our director of winemaking, Philippe Bascaules.”

From Gustave Niebaum to John Daniel, Jr. to Francis Ford Coppola, Inglenook’s three principal stewards have shared a strong sense of vision and an unwavering passion to create a wine estate that hearkens back to the European tradition, producing original, distinctly Napa wines that rival the best in Europe.

“Having 120 tanks helps us increase our knowledge of our organically-farmed vineyard and each growing area,” said Bascaules. “We’ll have a lot of capacity to vinify and separate the grapes. All of the tanks will be automated, too, which will allow us to experiment with multiple pump-overs. Additionally, we can experiment with extraction and we have infinite possibilities, which will lead to even more complex wines.”

Inglenook has a rich history of leadership in the wine industry. Many of founder Gustave Niebaum’s innovations at Inglenook became industry standards: Inglenook instituted the first sterile bottling process in Napa; it was the first to separate field debris from grapes; Inglenook planted Napa’s first Merlot in 1882; and Inglenook built the first gravity-flow winery in 1887, which was considered one of the greatest winery structures in the Western Hemisphere at the time.

About Inglenook
Founded in 1879 by Gustave Niebaum as Napa’s first estate winery, Inglenook boasts an illustrious heritage, a renowned legacy of innovation and an outstanding portfolio of award-winning wines that have defined and established Napa as a world-class wine region. From Gustave Niebaum to John Daniel, Jr. to Francis Ford Coppola, Inglenook’s three principal stewards have shared a strong sense of vision and an unwavering passion to create a wine estate that hearkens back to the European tradition, producing original, distinctly Napa wines that rival the best in Europe. It remains the largest contiguous estate on the famed Rutherford Bench, Napa Valley’s finest area for producing spectacular Cabernet Sauvignon.

The iconic Inglenook chateau was first constructed in 1887, and faithfully restored in 1997. Befitting the grandeur of the Inglenook estate, the chateau welcomes guests for seated tastings and special events. Experiences include tours of the Chateau, the Infinity caves, the vineyards, barrel tastings and culinary offerings under the direction of Winery Chef Alex Lovick who expertly pairs the wines with the seasonal, organic bounty of the expansive organically-farmed estate, culinary garden and orchards.

Perlis Picks: 91 Harvests

April 18, 2020 by Michael Perlis

On March 19, 2020, members of the J Dusi Winery wine CLuB (including me) received the following email regarding the film “91 Harvests”:

Initially set to premiere this week at the SLO Film Festival, because of the Coronavirus situation the Film Festival has been cancelled.

This short movie has a very special place in our hearts, not only because we can talk about family, but it is beyond precious to us because our Uncle Beni is in it, as well as Dante Dusi’s wife Dottie, whom have both passed away in the last seven months. This is a personal look into the lives of the people we have loved and learned from. We have memories of time together, and conversations that we cherish.

THANKS TO THE WINE HISTORY PROJECT OF SAN LUIS OBISPO, WE ARE THRILLED TO SHARE AN ONLINE VIEWING EXPERIENCE WITH YOU.

[From the website of the Wine History Project https://winehistoryproject.org/:

“The Wine History Project of San Luis Obispo County collects and presents two centuries of local viticulture history. Through research, interviews, films, exhibitions, publications and presentations, we work with local vintners and growers to bring to life the wine history of San Luis Obispo County.”

The website is a treasure trove of information on the area’s wine industry and you should definitely spend some time enjoying it. I definitely plan to.]

The email included a Vimeo link and a passcode that was good for that weekend only. I shared the information on Facebook, including to our Eve’s Wine 101 group page. Did you see it? If not, hopefully you will get another chance.

Karen and I really enjoyed watching this film. Janell Dusi and her family have held a special place in our hearts for a long time. We first met Janell and tasted the inaugural commercial vintage of J Dusi Wines at a Paso Robles traveling road show held at a Santa Monica hotel several years ago. We were immediately hooked.

Since then, we’ve visited many times, first at the family house at the Dante Dusi Vineyard just south of Paso Robles and then later when Janell acquired the property on Highway 46 West for her winery and tasting room. We’ve loved hanging out with her and her family and seeing the progression of the winery with new and creative bottlings and now with the new Paper Street vineyard and label.

But the film was not just about the J Dusi Winery, of course. As the title of the film tells you, the tale of the Dusi family is integral to the story of the Paso Robles Wine Country – 91 harvests is a long time! Learning more about this rich history that started with the emigration from Italy of Janell’s great-grandparents Sylvester and Caterina Dusi gives the viewer a greater appreciation of all that has been accomplished. And Janell only uses about 10% of the Dante Dusi Vineyard harvest for the J Dusi wines, so there is plenty left for certain select other wineries (like Turley and Ridge) to carry on the tradition as well.

Admittedly, our favorite parts of “91 Harvests” were the scenes with Janell and her mother Joni. We really miss these two wonderful women and are looking forward to being able to visit them again.

J Dusi Wines

https://www.jdusiwines.com/

1401 CA-46, Paso Robles, CA 93446

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 30 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also President of MCP Financial, which provides outsourced controller services. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or mcpfinancial@aol.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 4/2017: The ‘Cru Bourgeois’ Distinction

March 10, 2020 by evebushman

I attended a wine class organized by the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), of which I am a member, to learn more about ‘Cru Bourgeois’ wines mostly from the Medoc and Haut Medoc region of Bordeaux, France.

Chateau Lestiac, from the Cru Bourgeois official website

Wine appellations in Europe have lots of rules and distinctions. The Cru Bourgeois was different from any other I had learned about before, and the prices – $20 to $50 average – made them accessible to anyone with wine interests.

There were just maybe two dozen of us in the class: sommeliers, wine store owners and wine students. I was surprised to learn that I was one of two people that had been to Bordeaux, but not to the Medoc region.

Some of the reasons why the Bordeaux region is important

All of our winemaking techniques blending, fining, etc. – come from Bordeaux.

One of the longest aging wines in the world, it’s a fact with a proven track record.

Lower alcohol levels than other age-worthy wines.

Bordeaux is divided between the left and right bank of the Gironde river. Left was originally under water before the Dutch drained it, leaving great white gravel pebbles, the “secret to Bordeaux.”

Due to the weather blending became a necessity.

Vintage years are important, and pushed by producers, due to unpredictable weather.

The wines made on the right side of the Gironde river aew Merlot-based. Grows best in colder gravel/soil. Hills and limestone, limestone stays cooler.

Left of the Gironde is Cabernet Sauvignon-based. White pebbles in vineyard increase ripeness.

Haut Medoc and Medoc

Haut Medoc is where the classic Cabernets come from. If you travel the road between Medoc and Haut Medoc, running south to north, the gravel changes from smaller and fine to bigger gravel and more clay. So wines from Haut Medoc are more tannic, potent, powerful and require more aging. As you continue up the wines get bigger. It is widely considered that wines made from grapes closer to the Gironde River are better.

Crus Bourgeois du Medoc

The term, Crus Bourgeois, first became commercial in 19th century. The classification was made official in 1932 with 444 members. By 2003 there were 247 Chateau in the association.

The Crus Bourgeois are considered good wines that weren’t let into Grand Cru classification. This was a way to get national recognition beyond the Grand Crus.

The Crus Bourgeois is a privately controlled certifying organization. At one point one member of the panel was a vintner, it was eventually deemed unfair, and in 2009 a new tasting was held.

The first official selection of Crus Bourgeois was for the 2008 vintage. Every year, two years after harvest, the wines are tasted to see if they will be included as a Crus Bourgeois. The procedure is done annually, to every vintage, and supervised by an outside party, with an audit and a blind tasting. (Grand Crus don’t do this testing)

They have to have a representative random sample, to get an indication of that year’s quality, so they do an annual blind tasting that starts with 80 samples and goes down to 16. This gives a benchmark score of quality and what they are looking for.

More Facts of the Crus Bourgeois

Cru Bourgeois can be identified by QR code on a white label affixed to foil.
3% of Medoc vineyards, 30 million bottles, make the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc.
Average price is $25 a bottle and remain stable.
2013 and 2015 are the highest scanned bottles sold. California, New York and Texas are the states that visit the crus-bourgeois.com website the most.
You can visit 90% of the properties for tours and tastings.
They plan to reintroduce three levels, Crus Bourgeois, Superior Crus Bourgeois and Exceptional Crus Bourgeois categories by 2020.
They also want the review process to be every five years and not for single years.

Presented by NASA

For centuries, BORDEAUX has commanded an almost mythical status in the world of wine, beguiling kings, emperors and dictators alike. While its survival is dependent on the capricious nature of weather, its prosperity has always been tied to the shifting fortunes of global economies. As powerful nations rise and fall, so does the fate of this place.

One of the unique and historical characteristics of this commanding wine region is the quality ‘classification’ of its left bank (Medoc) wineries. Most of us are well aware of the famous 1855 classification that divided the wineries into a ‘Grand Cru’ scale of 1 to 5 and how unreachable the 5 top Chateaux are in price…but how about the wineries that were NOT classified in 1855 ? The ones that were born after, or perhaps never made the cut back then but today make fabulous wines at accessible prices? Welcome the CRU BOURGEOIS. Created in 1962 but with a far longer history, this association of producers stands to protect, classify and promote all the superb wineries that were not classified in 1855 and were in the hands of merchants and not noble families. They represent some of the best and most competitive wines that Bordeaux has to offer. As a result of their selection criteria and positioning in terms of price, the Crus Bourgeois are ideally suited to today’s markets and the requirements of increasingly demanding consumers.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits

Discovering Folded Hills Winery – Plus Winemaker Angela Osborne

February 28, 2020 by evebushman

Once again the #LAWineWriters met up at Napa Valley Grille in Westwood to have a wine paired luncheon. This time organizer and fellow writer Cori Solomon invited us to taste through some new Rhone wines – Grenache predominant – from a winery in the Santa Ynez AVA: Folded Hills Winery Farmstead Ranch.

We were greeted by the owner, Kim Busch, and general manager Tymari Lore on the patio of the restaurant. There were no less than nine wines for us to try, along with a six course meal created by Chef Ben Diaz. (See photos here.)

What we learned about the winery:

The vineyards are situated further south than any other vineyards in the Santa Ynez AVA and provide for cooler climate wines.
The winemaker, Angela Osborne, is also known for her A Tribute to Grace wines.
Their wine club is called “The Fold” and is very event-centered.
If you like French Rhônes, many of which are lower in alcohol than the American version, know that the Folded Hills wines we tried ranged from low to mid-range at 12.10% alcohol to 14.5%, with most hovering at about 13%.
They launched in April 2017 and you can taste the wines in their Montecito tasting room or at the estate in Gaviota.
This is a small production winery, with 5,500-6,500 case production, and they tend to “sell out fast.” Owner Kim Busch added, “Yes we do sell out of most our wines, all but 2 of which are purposely higher production.”
If you visit the winery you will not only see vineyards but also fruit trees and farm animals.

According to their brochure the wines “have no residual sugar and one gram or less of carbs, no commercial additives, minimal sulfur, only native yeast, are grown organically following the biodynamic calendar, made from grapes that are 95% estate grown, hand harvested using sustainable practices in the vineyard, are vegan, and crafted consciously to be lower in alcohol…” as well as being family owned.

Below are my tasting notes on the wines and food pairings:

ONE

Beet Tartare: Yuzu, hazelnut chimichurri, radish, nasturtium, country bread.

2018 Lilly Rose Grenache: 100% Folded Hills Grenache. Salmon in color, aromas and flavors of pink grapefruit, apple, lemon, graphite. Loved the beets and the Rose cooled down the heat of this dish.

TWO

The Nomad Flatbread: Salmon belly, crème fraiche, escabeche, radish, chervil.

2018 August White: 68% Folded Hills Grenache Blanc, 32% Area 51 Roussanne. White flowers, pears in light syrup, concrete, mild acidity. I loved the salmon – and had seconds – with this white Rhone.

THREE

Apple and Brie Flatbread: Granny Smith, picked red onion, triple crème brie, prosciutto, heirloom tomato velouté.

2018 Estate White Santa Ynez Valley: 50% Grenache Blanc, 25% Marsanne, 25% Clarette Blanche. Apple, peach, butter, toasted oak, crisp and clean mouthfeel, and my favorite white in the tasting. Loved the apple notes in the wine with the apples in the flatbread.

FOUR

Mary’s Free-Range Chicken Wings: Thai passion fruit chili, petite frisee, Heirloom radish, cilantro.

2017 August Red: 67% Grenache, 33% Syrah. Very perfumy aromatics, velvety red fruit, black cherries, big and tannic – especially when compared to the other red wines. My fellow writers oohed and awed over the pairing; it was quite nice with the spices on the chicken.

FIVE

Yellowfin Tuna: bubu arare, porcini crema, truffle ponzu, maitake.

2017 Cluster Grenache: Whole cluster Grenache, 100% Folded Hills. Cherry cola, green peppercorn and a nice easy drinker.

2017 Estate Grenache: 100% Folded Hills Grenache. Cherry liqueur, brambles, minty and dry.

2017 Grant Grenache: 92% Grenache, 8% Syrah. Raspberry, bright, oak and tannic.

All were really nice with the tuna, and as it was served cold it was a perfect picnic as we were outdoors on a cool day with low alcohol wines. These last two Grenache were my favorites of the reds.

SIX

Charred Te Mana Lamb: honey nut squash, baby kale, pine nut relish, au poivre.

Twice Fried Brussels Sprouts: Balsamic, parmigiano reggiano, togarashi, shaved bonito.

2017 Stolpman Syrah Ballard Canyon: 100% Stolpman Syrah. Strawberry, richly oaked, cola, tart.

2016 G.S.M.: 80% Folded Hills Vineyard, 20% Thompson Vineyard. 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre. Red berries, ash, long finish.

Both wines were very nice with the lamb and Brussels Sprouts, if I could have eaten more I would have!

https://foldedhills.com/

https://www.facebook.com/foldedhills/

https://napavalleygrille.com/

https://www.facebook.com/NapaValleyGrilleWestwood/