U.S. supermarket wines are catching up with European counterparts

September 16, 2019 by evebushman

NEW YORK /PRNewswire/ — U.S. supermarket wines, once considered to be poorly made and rarely worth drinking, scored a major success at the 2019 International Salute to Excellence awards for private label in Amsterdam, winning seven top honors in the category.

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The award-winning wines were:

From Costco: Kirkland Signature Bordeaux Supérieur 2016 (Bordeaux, $10), best quality; Kirkland Signature Asolo Prosecco NV (Italy, $10). best value.

From Trader Joe’s: Trader Joe’s organic Grower’s Reserve Merlot 2017 (California, $5), best quality; Trader Joe’s Platinum Reserve Pinot Noir 2017 (Russian River Valley, $15), best quality.

From Aldi US: Evanta Malbec 2017 (Argentina, $4), best value; Scarlet Path Zinfandel 2017 (Lodi, $8), best quality; Outlander Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Paso Robles, $9), best quality.

This is the best performance ever recorded for wines sold exclusively by U.S. supermarkets, more than doubling the number of 2018 winners. The showing demonstrates that U.S. private label wines continue to get closer to their European counterparts in terms of value and quality – especially among wines costing less than $15. This matters because wines that are sold exclusively by European supermarkets have long been considered among the best wine in the world at combining those two things.

“Don’t overlook private label store wines,” said Washington Post wine columnist Dave McIntrye, one of 18 international judges who participated in the 2019 wine awards program. “These were good value, high quality bottlings. Some stores are doing a great job sourcing really good juice.”

Wines were judged in 25 categories by varietal, style, and appellation, and each category was judged for best quality and best value. The 18 men and women who judged the competition came from around the world, and included Masters of Wines, sommeliers, winemakers, wine writers, wine educators, and retailers. They judged 350 wines from 40 retailers in 11 countries.

To see all results for the 2019 judging, visit www.plmasalute.com/wine-awards. The international Salute to Excellence Wine Awards are a competition sponsored by the Private Label Manufacturers Association, with offices in New York and Amsterdam. Founded in 1979, PLMA today represents 4,000 companies who are involved in the manufacture and distribution of store brand products in foods and beverages, as well as home and health products. PLMA sponsors two trade shows annually in Chicago and Amsterdam.

Eve Gets Her Zinfandel On…At Elevating Zin 2019

June 14, 2019 by evebushman

Michael Perlis and I are both big Zinfandel wine fans. Don’t get us wrong though, we love almost all varietals and our choices are completely dependent on what we are eating or the occasion. If the lesson is Rhones we’re there, Burgundy sometimes, Bordeaux varietals is pretty much a yes, and Zinfandel…well that just takes our collective breaths away. Big, bold, dusty and filled with mature dark fruit and tannins, our palates had been watering for weeks before we attended the latest Elevating Zin event produced again by Ian Blackburn for WineLA.com.

The Turley table pouring for Michael Perlis and Juan Alonso.

Below is the complete list of wines and wineries that were offered. The wines that were my favorites are noted in italics, my notes are in parenthesis and asterisks denote faves of the day. Look for Michael’s article on this website as well. Curious as it may appear, we don’t always love the same Zins, so it’s worth a look to read us both! Your palate may be just like one of ours. (Just want photos? Go here.)

Wine List (Most of the wineries, if not all, were delightfully represented by the winemaker and/or owner.)

Beekeeper Cellars

(These are Ian’s wines and always a favorite for me.)

Zinfandel, Secret Stones, Rockpile, Sonoma County 2016*

Zinfandel, Montecillo Vineyard, Sonoma County 2016*

Brown Estate

Zinfandel, Brown Estate, Chiles Valley, 2017*

Zinfandel Red Blend – Merlot, Zin, Petite Sirah, Napa, 2016*

Rosemary’s Block Zin – Zinfandel, Brown Estate, Chiles Valley, 2017

Chiles Valley Zinfandel – Zinfandel Brown Estate, Chiles Valley 2017*

Elyse Winery

(All wines are held 5 years.)

Zinfandel, Korte Ranch Vineyard, Saint Helena, 2013

Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, 2013*

Frank Family Vineyards

Zinfandel, Napa 2016

Kreck

(A new winery and a new favorite for me.)

Old Vine Zinfandel, Teldeschi Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, 2016*

Old Vine Zinfandel, Del Barba Vineyard, Contra Costa County, 2016*

Martinelli Winery

Zinfandel, Vellutini Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2016*

Zinfandel, Vigneto di Evo, Russian River Valley, 2016 (I missed this one.)

Zinfandel, Giuseppe & Luisa, Russian River Valley, 2016*

Mauritson Wines

(Been a fan since Michael introduced me to Clay Mauritson’s wines years ago)

Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, 2017*

Zinfandel, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard, Rockpile, 2016*

Zinfandel, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard, Rockpile 2017*

Zinfandel, Jack’s Cabin Vineyard, Rockpile, 2017*

Portalupi Winery

(The winery also makes a Barbera and Charbono that I hope to review in the near future.)

Old Vine Zinfandel, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2016

Old Vine Zinfandel, Reserve, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2016

Old Vine Zinfandel, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2017

Old Vine Zinfandel, Reserve, Dolinsek Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2017*

Ridge Vineyards

(Loved the addition of Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet in the 2016.)

68% Zin, 18% Carignane, 12% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouschet, Geyserville, Alexander Valley, 2017

Zinfandel, East Bench, Dry Creek Valley, 2017

88% Zinfandel, 9% Petite Sirah, 3% Alicante Bouschet, Pagani Ranch, Sonoma Valley, 2016*

Robert Biale Vineyards

(Another winery Michael turned me onto.)

Black Chicken Zinfandel, Napa Valley, 2017

Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley, 2017*

Turley Wine Cellars

(Interesting to me that it was the two Turleys I was unfamiliar with that were my favorites – from Lodi and Amador County.)

Zinfandel, Juvenile, California, 2017

Zinfandel, Kirschenmann Vineyard, Lodi, 2017*

Zinfandel, Buck Cobb Vineyard, Amador County, 2017*

Zinfandel, Dusi Vineyard, Paso Robles, 2017

William Selym

(Most of us are familiar with their Pinot Noirs, was a treat to try their Zins.)

Papera Vineyard Zinfandel, Russian River Valley 2017

Fanucchi – Wood Road Zinfandel, Russian River Valley 2017

Zialena

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2016

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2015 Reserve*

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2014 Reserve

Zinfandel, Estate, Alexander Valley, 2013 Reserve

(Please forgive me for missing these two wineries listed below = palate fatigue.)

Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves

Dry Creek Zinfandel, 2016

Big River Ranch Zinfandel, 2015

Barrel 32 Zinfandel, 2016

Seghesio Family Vineyards

Zinfandel, Home Ranch Vineyard, Alexander Valley, 2015

Zinfandel, Cortina, Dry Creek Valley, 2015

Zinfandel, Old Vine, Sonoma County, 2015

Zinfandel, Mariah Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge, 2017

(* faves of the day)

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.

VERDE VINEYARDS AND TANK HOUSE JOIN THE WINERIES OF SANTA CLARA VALLEY FAMILY

May 9, 2019 by evebushman

SANTA CLARA COUNTY —The Wineries of Santa Clara Valley is happy to announce the addition of two wineries to the association—welcome Verde Vineyards and Tank House.

Verde Vineyards:
Owners George and Lynda Green opened Verde Vineyards in 2017 and become members of the Wineries of Santa Clara Valley this past March. Their backgrounds in the medical field and attention to detail carry over into their passion for winemaking. “Our focus is on making enjoyable wines that engage all the senses, and we strive for a balance of all the flavor components that give the taster an overall flavor or feeling of the wine as the first impression,” says George Green, co-owner Verde Vineyards.

The winery specializes in hand-crafted small lot Bordeaux varietals from their 12 acres of estate vines in Santa Clara Valley.

Tank House Winery
Father & son Al and Joe Cavigli, began making wine in their garage over 10 years ago. When the wine making became more than a hobby, they purchased 5 acres of land and moved to San Martin, California. Their first day of operation coincided with the first day of the associations Spring Passport month, so they were welcomed with more than a normal

The Caviglia’s make their wines with grapes from Borden Ranch, a distinct AVA of Lodi, California. They oversee every step of the process themselves and make ten different varietals that can be purchased in restaurants and stores throughout the Bay Area, as well as in their newly completed tasting room.

“We look forward to sharing our love of wine with all who visit the Tank House,” says Al Caviglia, co-owner Tank House Winery. “Please stop by with friends and family to enjoy a glass of Tank House wine with our family. Cheers!”

With the addition of Verde Vineyards and Tank House, the Wineries of Santa Clara Valley is now up to 32 wineries strong.

About the Wineries of Santa Clara Valley:

The Wineries of Santa Clara Valley is a non-profit 501c3 Corporation, made up of member wineries who grow and produce wines that are grown in the Valley. Producing wines from other regions fruit is also permitted. The specific purpose of the Corporation is to educate people about wine and wineries, grape growing, using sustainable agricultural winemaking and production practices related to the highest standard of quality winemaking in Santa Clara Valley. Its focus is also to provide educational opportunities and promote public awareness about the cultural heritage, health benefits and enjoyment of wine in a socially responsible manner, and to be recognized as a positive, contributing member of the community.

The Wineries of Santa Clara Valley is an association representing member wineries that grow and produce wines in one of the oldest wine producing regions of California.

With the first plantings at the Santa Clara Mission in 1798, the region of Santa Clara Valley represents one of the oldest growing traditions in the country. The Santa Clara Valley is now home to over three dozen wineries, of every size and shape, from long-established family operations to relatively small newcomers. On March 28, 1989, the Santa Clara Valley received AVA status; prior to this the region’s wines were typically labeled ‘Central Coast’ or ‘Santa Clara County’.

FitVine Wine Now Available at Bed Bath & Beyond and Cost Plus World Market

February 23, 2019 by evebushman

LODI, Calif. (PRWEB) – FitVine Wine, makers of clean great-tasting wines with less sugar, fewer sulfites and no flavor additives, continues their aggressive retail expansion plan by entering Bed Bath & Beyond and Cost Plus World Market. This expansion will make FitVine wines available in 23 Bed Bath & Beyond locations in 11 states and 259 Cost Plus World Market locations in 33 states.

FitVine Wine was born when friends made a pact to craft amazing wines that would complement their active lifestyles and not compromise their health and fitness goals. They began with sourcing the cleanest ingredients and an extended proprietary fermentation process. As a result, their clean great-tasting wines have no flavor additives, less sugar and fewer sulfites compared to competitors. The unique fermentation process also allows FitVine to craft rich and flavorful wines with the mouthfeel and alcohol content (13-14%) consumers expect from high quality fine wines. FitVine wines are also gluten free and vegan friendly. FitVine varietals include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Limited Edition Holiday Red Blend, Rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Prosecco.

“When we first launched, our wines were only available online,” said Mark Warren, President and Co-Founder of FitVine Wine. “While our direct-to-consumer online sales remain strong, the customer demands for increased retail availability has grown exponentially. Our new partnerships with Bed Bath & Beyond and Cost Plus World Markets are helping us respond to consumer demands by offering our loyal customer base more access to our better-for-you wines at their favorite stores.”

FitVine fan favorites including, the classic Cabernet Sauvignon, full-bodied dry Chardonnay, and light and crisp Sauvignon Blanc are now currently available at select Bed Bath & Beyond and Cost Plus World Market locations. Customers can find their local retailer by visiting FitVine Wine’s store locator.

“FitVine is an ideal fit for our stores as our customers seek quality, convenience and variety at a one-stop shop location,” said Alex Joerger, Director of Wine, Beer & Spirits for Cost Plus World Market. “Given the unique and diverse product offering in our stores, we need to be highly selective and FitVine checked all of the boxes by offering great tasting wines with lower sugar and fewer sulfites, an ideal combination for starting off the New Year.”

FitVine will host wine tastings at Bed Bath & Beyond and Cost Plus World Market stores throughout the months of February and March. For more information on a tasting near you, refer to FitVine’s calendar of events.

Want to learn more about FitVine Wines, find a retailer near you or pop open your first bottle? Visit FitVine Wine for more information.

About FitVine Wine:
FitVine was born when friends made a pact to craft amazing wines that also fit their active lifestyles. FitVine’s clean great-tasting wines have less sugar, fewer sulfites and no flavor additives. To create clean and rich tasting wines with the flavor, mouthfeel and alcohol content you expect from a fine wine, FitVine uses a proprietary malolactic fermentation process. The wine ferments to dry and lowers sugar levels. On average, all wines have 0.01-0.09 grams of sugar, 2.5-3.9 grams of carbohydrates and 92-120 calories (per 5 oz. glass). The ‘fun’ in the bottle remains intact with all wines ranging from 13.4 – 13.9% alcohol. FitVine crushes grapes, so you can crush life!

Vintage Eve Circa 8/2008: Meeting Local Winemakers

October 5, 2018 by evebushman

My husband Eddie and I spending a day wine tasting in Santa Clarita (SCV) is not news. But wine tasting at two different vineyards within ten minutes of our house in SCV is.

Chris and Jeannie Carpenter of Newhall have a cellar I have long coveted. Free standing and temperature controlled, with an attached sitting room, it is normally filled with exceptional wine. But on this day it was also filled with oak barrels to sample from and a “wine thief” (think classy turkey baster) to sample with.

Me interviewing Jeannie Carpenter, a few years after this article was written.

“We have what you call a collective co-op,” Chris began. “Three couples and a single winemaker. We had 500 pounds of Cabernet that we made into 30 gallons. Two 26 gallon half barrels – they’re easier to move and hold plenty of wine anyway -makes about 35 bottles per couple.”

“The grapes are all from a local grower in Bouquet Canyon. During the crush the grapes are ‘popped’, cleaned, covered, slosh around in a truck getting here and then we ferment it for a month with the skins on.”

“Our ‘Lost Pruners’ vintage was the last one we made. We will age the new one in American oak for about 4-5 more months. The wood softens the wine, but we have the remaining juice in glass containers. If it happens to be too ‘oaky’, we’ll blend them to taste. We are also making a Barolo style from 100% Nebbiolo grapes from Santa Ynez. It will be a little drier and needs one more year before taking home.”

At this point Chris checks his composition book to tell us that his “Cabernet Tempranillo was first bottled in July of 07.”

We asked how in the heck he learned how to do this and he said, “Reading a lot and learning by mistakes. I also tried to do everything my favorite winemaker from Saxum did; right down to picking his brain and planting the same grapes. The 200 vines we’re growing are Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre that we’ll use to make a Southern Rhone-style blend. I’ve learned a lot from collaborating with my friend, Roman Weiser (another Newhall grower) on the crafting of these wines.”

We reluctantly head away from the cellar and out to take a look at the vines. Jeannie took charge of our tour then. “I plan of having Assistance League fundraisers here,” Jeannie said. “To support our community.”

She then introduced us to her brother-in-law, Tim Carpenter, who had named the “Compa Vineyards” in memory of his dog, who was lovingly seen as a true “compadre”.

“You can come back for the grape stomp,” Chris added. “We may do that next time. Until then we let the grapes drop, to give structure to our 2009 harvest.” We’re there.

Then, back in the car, we drove ten minutes to Two Hearts Vineyard, this time into the hills above Hasley Canyon and to the beautiful home of Kerry and Susie (not Suzie Q.) Clark. And, even though they were in the midst of preparing for a wedding, it didn’t prevent them from being gracious hosts to an impromptu wine tasting.

With a 4 year old all organic vineyard they have just a bit over 200 vines. Growing Rhone reds, Primitivo, Cabernet and Barbera; whites include Colombard, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and White Malvasia.

“We are strictly amateur winemakers for now so we either drink our wine or give it away,” Susie reported. “We also buy grapes (Paso, Santa Barbara, and Lodi), and juice (Napa, Washington, Australia and Austria) and even use wine kits. We have won quite a few awards for our wine in the past few years. Last month we received 5 medals at the 2008 Wine Maker International Amateur Wine Competition.”

“There were over 4,300 entries from 6 different countries making it the largest wine competition of any kind – commercial or amateur – in North America. Our 2006 Cat Canyon Santa Barbara County Sangiovese won a gold medal and the 06 Sangio-Cab blend took a silver. The 2006 and 2007 Gruner-Veltliner both took gold medals and the 07 Viognier got a silver. Our wines have won awards at other competitions including the California State Fair and the L.A. Cellarmasters U.S. Winemaking Competition”.

“We enjoy the competitions as professional judges give us feedback on our wines”.

It was a hell of a tasting. I had a hard time pouring out any of the wines Kerry had us taste. But the warm weather, excellent learning experience along with the subtle cheeses, fruits and meats, all increased our pairing experience.

“It all happened by accident,” Kerry explained. “We were invited to go to Napa and all I thought was that I didn’t need any auto parts.” There was a jokester in this winemaker. “Now we have a hard time taking a vacation at all because we can’t predict when the grapes are going to be ready for pick up, tasting and testing.”

“I enjoy writing the labels,” Kerry said. “I think every wine has a story to tell. My labels help tell the story of what’s in the bottle. Wine should be fun!” My husband read one of his quips, “Be a mellow fellow – drink Bordello Verdello” on the 2006 Mullaro Creek and “GRU-V” the 2006 Gruner Veltliner.

“Making wine isn’t hard,” Kerry continues, “But making good wine is. We started making small batches of beer before we lived in this house. And it was actually more complex with grinding grains and adding caramel. We had names like Brain Dead Red and Liver Killer Lager. Beer should be fun too!”

“We are also very green conscious: This is not a Rombauer Chardonnay, it’s my French Colombard, and we just reused the bottle.” Other wine making tips include oak cubes and stays and a cold fermentation process that “keeps the whites delicate.”
“In blending my own wines I can make my own decisions and make them consistent, I’m a slave to nature. But we don’t try to strong arm our grapes to taste a certain way, we go where the grapes take us.”

So do I.

Perlis Picks: Turley Wine Cellars Again

September 22, 2018 by Michael Perlis

Turley Wine Cellars has always had a very significant presence in our personal wine cellar and I don’t see that ever changing. While our wine interests have broadened, Turley continues to be on a very short list of wineries we absolutely can’t do without.

But when we bumped into Turley Tasting Room Manager Malani Anderson a few months ago while attending a seminar at the Hospice du Rhone event, we realized that we had not actually visited Turley’s Paso Robles’ winery and tasting room in quite some time. Obviously, we needed to rectify this.

Our connection to Turley Wine Cellars started in 2000, when they acquired the Pesenti winery and vineyard in Templeton. Of course we knew of Turley before that, having latched onto Zinfandel as a favorite varietal several years earlier. We were also very familiar with Pesenti and had visited them many times, usually to start a day of tasting [they opened at 9 AM!].

Larry Turley had founded Turley Wine Cellars in 1993 and quickly became what is known as a “cult” winery specializing in Zinfandel and Petite Syrah [yes, that’s how Larry spells it]. Acquiring Pesenti in 2000 not only gave Larry access to a great historic vineyard but, in my opinion, helped to bring additional legitimacy to an area that was starting to explode.

Of course, changes were made to the tasting room to give visitors a great Turley experience. We’ve visited many times over the year for pick-up parties, seminars and, of course, just to taste the great Turley wines. But, as I said, we hadn’t stopped by in a while so we were extremely pleased to be able to correct this by visiting with Paso Robles tasting room assistant manager and educator Steve O’Brien.

Steve took us on a quick visit to the Pesenti Vineyard before the day got too hot. He explained that the rains of 2016 and 2017 really provided much needed benefit to the vines, which had been suffering a great deal from the drought; these vines are traditionally dry-farmed. 2018 has seemed to have returned to the “normal” drier conditions. On the plus side, Steve said that the timing of harvest seemed like it was going to be a little later than the past few years had been, also being a little more like normal conditions.

When we first signed up for Turley’s mailing list in 2000, when they acquired this amazing property, we were able to pretty much select everything Turley had to offer. At that time, I’m guessing that Turley made, perhaps, twenty wines, mostly Zinfandel. Now, they make almost 50 different wines, mostly vineyard designated Zinfandel and Petite Syrahs. Although it’s now become impossible to take everything Turley offers, the work of picking and choosing is a lot of fun.

We’ve always admired Larry Turley and director of winemaking Tegan Passalacqua [and everyone else at Turley for that matter] for the focus on preserving California’s heritage vineyards. We’ve also held a special place in our heart for the ones in Paso Robles, so we were excited when Turley added yet another Paso vineyard to the portfolio – the Amadeo Martinelli Vineyard. The bottling is called “Amadeo’s” in the Turley lineup [they can’t really call it Martinelli, can they?] and is another great example of what Paso’s old vineyards can do. The vineyard, on the west side of Templeton, was planted in the 1920s and the Amadeo Martinelli winery operated up until the 1960s.

We had the opportunity to barrel taste with Steve O’Brien all of their Paso 2017 Zinfandels – Dusi, Pesenti, Ueberroth and Amadeo’s – as well as the Pesenti 2017 Petite Syrah. Now, barrel tasting can be dicey; often the wines are not ready to drink and just offer a glimpse of what is to come. These wines were delicious, even the Petite which can often take some time in the bottle to come around. I’m not sure I could have told them apart blind – although I think I could have picked out the Dusi for its always distinct [to me] brambly notes – but I can tell you this much though: I am going to have some tough choices when they show up on the allocation letters. [Not the Amadeo’s though, at least as of now it is only available in the Paso Robles tasting room.]

Finishing our visit in the Tasting Room, we started with the 2016 White Coat blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Vermentino. Always one of our go-to whites [when available] it is named after Larry Turley’s days as an ER physician.

We followed that with a real treat, the 2017 Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi. This vineyard was planted in 1886 [wow] and is the oldest Cinsault vineyard in the US.

Then we had a side-by-side tasting of two 2016 Zinfandels – Duarte and Rattlesnake Ridge. The Duarte Zinfandel is named after grape grower Joe Duarte who introduced Larry to the vineyard of Contra Costa County; this is a blend from three of those which were planted between 1890 and 1930. The sandy soils help to create a very soft style of Zin. The Rattlesnake Ridge on the other hand is Howell Mountain at its finest – big and bold. Trying these side by side really showed the differences imparted by the growing regions.

We couldn’t leave without trying the 2016 Amadeo’s Zinfandel. This is really another great addition to Turley’s portfolio. And we couldn’t leave without buying because it doesn’t make it to the mailing list!

Ditto for the 2016 Tecolote blend of Grenache and Carignane from the Pesenti Vineyard. These two varietals seems to go together naturally and the old vines add to the complexity.

Steve reminded us that when Turley Wine Cellars first started, people commented that the wines were pretty expensive…for Zinfandel. Now that Zinfandel is recognized as a quality wine grape [in no small part due to Larry Turley’s efforts], the price of high-end Zinfandel has gone up substantially – except for Turley. I don’t think I’ve seen an increase since we’ve been on the allocation list. As Malani told me: “We know there are many wines to choose from out there, but we want to be a no brainer for high quality and fair pricing and I think that makes us unique.”

We’ve enjoyed being part of the Turley family for almost 20 years. Thank you to Malani for setting this up and to Steve for being such a great host. And don’t forget to visit your favorite wineries – there just might be something great that didn’t make it onto the mailing list!

Turley Wine Cellars

Paso Robles Tasting Room

2900 Vineyard Drive,
Templeton, CA 93465
Tel: (805) 434-1030

Amador County Tasting Room

10851 Shenandoah Road,
Plymouth, CA 95669
Tel: (209) 245-3938

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 6/2015: Living the Vida LoCa Via Lodi

August 14, 2018 by evebushman

The #LAWineWriters struck again en masse for a recent tasting and lesson, this time on the Lodi winemaking region:

Camron King and Craig Ledbetter were on hand to tell us all about the wineries and vineyards in LoCa, aka the wines of Lodi. Camron is the director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, and Craig is a partner at VinoFarms, and helped developed the region’s benchmark 3rd-party certified sustainability program.

Introduction

Camron, to get us up to speed, gave us an overview of the Lodi region and then led us through the tasting. Maybe three of our group of 12 #LAWineWriters had visited Lodi. Camron said Lodi is directly east of the San Francisco Bay, giving them a “beautiful region” for wine grape growing due to the pacific breezes. Lodi does have warm degree-days in summer time and during the growing period, but the delta breezes provide a 40 – 45 degree cooling change and that coolness develops great acidity in the fruit.

Lodi History

They have been growing grapes in Lodi since the 1850s. Over 100 different wine varietals, from Albariño to Zinfandel, including old and new world wines, and all are “expressing quite nicely.” Now they have over 85 wineries and of those 65 having tasting rooms, making the growth perfect for wine tourism. Many wineries are small, boutique and direct-to-consumer. Michael David Winery, with its 7 Deadly Zin, is their biggest commercial winery.

With wine production in every U.S. state many of these states get their grapes from Lodi. Leading with many different varietals, Lodi helps others meet the demand for wine.

The longevity of the famous old vines in Lodi are due to the sandy soil, and because of that soil they don’t have the pests that other grape growing regions deal with. And according to our hosts, Zinfandel loves sandy soils. Though “the flagship variety” in Lodi is Zinfandel – and they are the world’s leading producer of Zinfandel, and produce about 40% for the state – they have wine varietals from all over the world.

Many vines are over 100 year old. They have one of the oldest, 132 years old, the Bechthold Vineyard, (vineyard of the year designate in 2014) which produces Cinsault. Bechthold isn’t the only Lodi winery to win a recent award, Delicato Vineyard is the winery of the year for 2014.

Also in 2014 “The Ledbetter family, which owns and operates Lodi-based Vino Farms, received the California Association of Winegrape Growers’ Grower of the Year Award…” more.

Lodi’s famous Zinfandel, and other grapes, may be picked at a higher brix level, which will translate to higher alcohol. And across the board, the majority of the wines are priced up to about $30.

A Word about Water

Homes use more wine than vines do. Though producing more food now then in past years they are using less water too. In a near joint quote Camron and Craig said, “This is a health food product, relaxes us and minimizes conflict – at times…it’s the wine, not the cheese or the almond, people talk about.”

The Ledbetter Family

Craig Ledbetter is a third generation wine grape grower, with zero association with any of the wines we were set to taste. He is interested in selling the region as a whole. In 1972 Craig’s grandfather, along with two partners, moved to Lodi to start farming wine grapes. Vino Farms now farms 16,000 acres, and is still a family operation with members living in different counties (they farm in 8) all over California.

Their goal is to improve the reputation of “the valley” for being too hot. It may get up to the low 90s during the day but it dips down to 50s in the night. Lodi growers know they can grow high quality wines with these conditions. Stags Leap in Napa has a hotter climate than Lodi, Craig said, but they “don’t compete with Napa.”

Town of Lodi

They have a beautiful downtown area, made up of cobblestone streets with plenty of shady trees. The city crest is a grape cluster, the buses are called the GrapeLine and the shopping center is The Vineyards. Population is 60,000 with most in the wine industry. The tasting rooms are considered “quaint” as family members man most. Lodi is considered to be a very philanthropic community that is very “tied together” and vested in the future.

Tasting

Aromas and flavors separated by ;

2014 LangeTwins Sauvignon Blanc (89 WE)

Bright green apples, buttery caramel, Meyer lemon; full and viscous, lemon zest, refreshing, crushed pineapple.

2013 Harney Lane Albariño

Sweet Hawaiian pineapple, fresh apricot, cut pear with a hint of anise; the same lovely fruit, nice medium acid, long finish. Well done. There are lots of Albariño wines in the restaurant and tasting room menus in Lodi according to our hosts.

2013 Bokisch Vineyard Vista Luna Verdelho

Candied red apple, kiwi, lemon-lime, cling peaches; not a sweet palate, more of a welcoming tang followed by balanced citrus and tropical fruit. This would be nice with a cool seafood salad.

2012 Bokisch Vineyard Tempranillo

Plum, cigar, sautéed mushroom, blueberry; dark fruit, dusty, dry, tannic. Can I have my New York steak now? Well done, wine that is.

2012 M2 Wines Soucie Vineyard Zinfandel (Old Vines from 1916)

Blueberry and blackberry jams, milk and dark chocolate, a hint of mint; very balanced, a perfect marriage of fruit and spice. I’d love this in a chocolate pairing.

2013 St. Amant Marian’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Old vines from 1902)

Heavy dusty dark fruit, black olive, black peppercorns, can’t wait to taste; chewy spicy fruit, nice and tannic, want steak with this one too.

Learn more and plan your visit: http://www.lodiwine.com

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

PERLIS PICKS: Angeleno Wine Company dinner at Crossings

July 14, 2018 by Michael Perlis

In 2016, reporting on the Los Angeles edition of the Garagiste Festival, I singled out Rhythm Wines as a “winery to watch”, especially enjoying the 2015 Tannat from the local Alonso Family Vineyard.

Then, I lost track of them.

Then, in early 2017 by my recollection, the manager of the short-lived and greatly missed Maré Restaurant in Silver Lake tasted us on a Rosé made by a local winemaker who was focusing on Los Angeles County grapes. But I didn’t make the connection, until…

Eve received an invitation to attend a winemaker dinner at Crossings restaurant in South Pasadena featuring the wines of Angeleno Wine Company. Eve was busy partying – um, I mean researching – in New Orleans, so her loss was our gain.

Karen and I were delighted to take her place but I was unfamiliar with the winery. A quick internet search followed and I was soon looking at the faces of Jasper Dickson and Amy Luftig Viste from that 2016 Garagiste Festival. With the focus now primarily on the Alonso Vineyard, they are working on opening their winery and tasting room in Downtown Los Angeles.

My plan is to devote a full article to Angeleno in the near future. In the meantime, back to the dinner…

Established in 2013, Crossings occupies the historic [built in 1908] Edwards and Faw building in South Pasadena. With dining rooms on two floors and the wine loft in between them as well as a patio, Crossing is visually stunning. The only question was: would the food match?

We were about to find out.

Hosted by Crossings’ Proprietor Patrick Kirchen, Chef Kevin Malone and Wine Ambassador Chris Sweeney along with Angeleno’s Winemaker Jasper Dickson, the challenge to create perfect pairings was not only met but exceeded. With Angeleno’s focus on LA County’s wine history, Chef Kevin developed a Latin-inspired menu that not only paid homage to the heritage of Los Angeles but also to Juan Alonso’s and his vineyard’s Spanish roots.

The first course, a ceviche with compressed melon and roe, also had habanero powder sprinkled on it. The heat from the habanero was cut by the balanced acidity of the Angeleno 2017 White Field Blend of mostly Spanish varietals from Alonso Family Vineyard.

Next came the monk fish with passion fruit and dwarf banana. This was paired with the 2017 “The Meadow” Rosé. This was the only wine not from LA County grapes, instead it was a blend of Graciano and Garnacha from a vineyard farmed by Markus Bokisch in Lodi. This dish and wine pairing had everybody asking for more. As Winemaker Jasper said: “Rosé all day – in LA!”

Next up, quail with mole, yolk and herb salad. This dish was not only delicious but ingenious as well, with the quail and quail egg in the same dish [raising the chicken and egg question in its own way]. The richness of the mole went perfectly with the 2016 Grenache from the Alonso Family Vineyard.

The final course [before dessert] was pork belly [yum!] with tamarind, jicama and hibiscus. Pork belly, of course, is very rich. The jicama cut through that perfectly. This was naturally paired with the heaviest wine of the evening, an excellent Tempranillo and Garnacha blend called “Bike Path”, also a 2016 from the Alonso Vineyard.

Dessert was a churro with queso Oaxaca, guanabana and honey. Pairing the cheese with the sweet dessert provided great contrast and the dish was all brought together with the 2016 “Superbloom” blend of Albarino, Riesling and Chenin Blanc, for the perfect ending to a fabulous meal.

Crossings does special events frequently. But you don’t have to wait for an event to check out Chef Kevin’s food or the killer wine list that Chris has put together. Check out the Crossings website for details.

And stay tuned for more information on Angeleno Wine Company.

Crossings 1010 Mission St, South Pasadena, CA 91030

Angeleno Wine Company Los Angeles, CA

Perlis Picks: Taste The World

July 7, 2018 by Michael Perlis

Every two years, trade and media has the opportunity to “taste the world” with distributor and importer Henry Wine Group. In a large ballroom at the Westin Bonaventure filled with wine and a small section devoted to spirits [covered by Eve in a recent article] we got to sample literally hundreds [if one were so inclined] of offerings from a wide variety of domestic and international producers.

Upon entering the event, we were provided with a wine tasting glass and a 158 page book – I told you there were a lot of wines to taste! Here were some of my favorites…

Ancient Peaks – I always love the Renegade and the Oyster Ridge blends, and the 2015 and 2014 of these, respectively, were both excellent.

Andrew Murray Vineyards – Another old favorite, one of the wineries that first got me into Rhones. The 2016 Enchante did it for me today.

Dashe Cellars – They’ve expanded their fun carbonic maceration line and continue to make great Zinfandels, including my usual favorite Todd Brothers Ranch (2015 this time).

Elizabeth Spencer Winery – I wasn’t really familiar with this Mendocino based winery but getting introduced to their delicious 2016 Grenache solved that problem.

Joullian Vineyards – One might not expect great Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monterey Peninsula, but this winery in the Carmel Valley belies that notion with their 2013 ‘Sias Cuvee’ Zin and 2014 Estate Cab.

Mettler Family Vineyards – I liked all three of the wines this Lodi winery was pouring – the Estate Cabernet, the “Epicenter” Old Vine Zinfandel and especially the Estate Petite Sirah, all from the 2015 vintage.

Mundovino – This importer had a whopping 10 tables at the event. Admittedly, I tend to focus on domestic producers but I wanted to try some Argentinean Malbec. I tasted some very impressive wines from Catena at all price points, especially the 2014 Catena Zapata Alta Malbec and the 2015 Catena Zapata Argentino Malbec.

Pestoni Family Estate Winery – Another new to me winery, I enjoyed everything they poured – 2016 Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc, 2015 “1892” Field Blend and the 2013 and 2014 Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignons.

Saucelito Canyon Vineyards – Great Zinfandel from the Arroyo Grande Valley? You better believe it. Their 2015 Estate Zinfandel comes from a vineyard that was originally planted in 1880.

Shafer Vineyards – Shafer’s Cabernet Sauvignons are legendary and I wasn’t going to pass up a chance to taste them. Loved both the 2015 One Point Five Stag’s Leap and of course the 2013 Hillside Select Stag’s Leap as well.

Sinor-Lavallee – Bringing this list full circle, this is Ancient Peaks’ Director of Winemaking Mike Sinor’s own project. The Pinot Noirs were great but I was admittedly here for the Syrahs – the 2013 White Label – Bassi Vineyard, 2015 SLO/Estate and 2014 Black Label – Bassi Vineyard were all outstanding.

There was obviously a lot more I could have tasted [158 pages, after all] but I probably spent too much time catching up with various members of the trade who I’ve known over the years. My biggest takeaway from all this is that Henry Wine Group represents some excellent wineries. If you see their name on the label as distributor or importer, you can be assured you are getting quality, regardless of the price point.

Perlis Picks: Family Winemakers of California [Part Two]

April 21, 2018 by Michael Perlis

This year’s Family Winemakers event, held at the Pasadena Convention Center, had about 70 wineries presenting their finest bottlings to an appreciative crowd of trade, media and consumer attendees. Yes, I said 70. Obviously, I couldn’t taste everything, but I think I made a pretty good dent. Here are some of my favorites…

Ascension Cellars – specializing in Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, this was one of several wineries at the event representing Paso Robles. Enjoyed the Rose, the Soul Shaker Cab/Syrah blend as well as the dessert Primitivo.

Bokisch Vineyards – a Lodi winery focused on Spanish varietals, I was excited to see they also produced a Zinfandel from the Kirschenmann Vineyard. This vineyard is owned by Tegan Passalacqua of Turley Wine Cellars. Turley, of course, makes a zin from this vineyard as do a few other wineries. This version was about as pure an expression of the vineyard as I’ve had.

Brecon Estate – I’ve been wanting to try this Paso Robles winery since they were named winery of the year in Doug Wilder’s Purely Domestic Wine Report. Both the Forty-Two red Rhone blend and the Petite Sirah were excellent.

Cass Winery – what can be said about this Paso Robles winery that hasn’t been said? Great white and red Rhones with Ted Plemons providing the entertainment.

DRNK – the name of this Russian River Valley winery is made up of the initials of family members. The “K” is for winemaker Ryan Kunde – yes, that Kunde family so you know the winemaking pedigree is there. Great Pinot Noir and Malbec.

Frog’s Tooth – this winery serves as a great reminder that well-priced high quality wines can be found when you expand your wine search into the Sierra Foothills. Especially liked the Sauvignon Blanc and the Petite Sirah.

Pech Merle – based in Geyserville, this tiny winery is producing some really good juice. I really liked their Zinfandel.

Petrified Forest Vineyards – Ken and Susan Piters are making excellent Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from their vineyard in Sonoma County’s Knight’s Valley.

Pride Mountain Vineyards – speaking of Cabernet, just a big “wow” for the one from this winery that overlaps the north end of Napa and Sonoma counties.

Sobon Estate / Shenandoah Vineyards – consistently one of my favorite Amador County wineries, the reserve Zin was my pick at this table.

Sol Rouge Vineyard & Winery – pouring a wide range of mostly Rhone inspired wines, there was a lot to enjoy at this table. Favorites for me were the Cinsaut and the Cabernet Franc.

Treasure Island Wines / Kohler & Frohling Wines – I had planned on visiting this table anyway and I was especially intrigued when I got an email reminding me of an article that hit The Daily Beast early in 2017. Kohler & Frohling was originally founded in the 1850s in Los Angeles and has now been recreated by the great-great grandson of the founder Charles Kohler. The wines are made by the same winemaker as San Francisco’s Treasure Island Wines, Jim Mirowski. I really enjoyed the Rose wines at this table, my favorite being the K&F Rose of Pinot Noir, which struck me as a pretty serious version of a Rose.

Eve’s article already listed all the wineries that poured at this event, so I won’t bother listing them again. But, I highly recommend you watch our site for more events in the future, both from Family Winemakers and other great organizations.