Michelin Starred Chef Christophe Émé Presents KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant!

February 20, 2019 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Los Angeles, CA – After twenty-five years as a powerhouse in the fine dining industry, Michelin starred and world-renowned Chef Christophe Émé is ready to uncork another side of his prowess by introducing KASS, a chic and welcoming wine bar and restaurant that offers a sophisticated yet approachable French Dinner Menu and unrivaled Wine List in a 40-seat dining room and bar stripped of pretention, but brimming with innovation and immaculate presentation. Situated on the most in-vogue strip on La Brea, KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant by Chef Christophe Émé officially opened Friday, February 1^st, 2019!

Chef Christophe Eme. Photo Credit- acuna-hansen

Growing up in France’s picturesque Loire Valley was the ideal backdrop for Chef Christophe Émé, who learned from an early age the joy of cooking in the kitchen. At the age of sixteen, Émé began an apprenticeship at the Hôtel de France in Angers before embarking on a journey that has propelled him across the globe, sharpening his skills at some of the world’s most prestigious restaurants with enough Michelin stars between them to form a constellation. From Auberge des Templiers, to Auberge de l’Eridan in the French Alps, to the opulent Taillevent, Émé has worked with such culinary legends as Gerard Rabaey, Marc Veyrat, Michel Rostang, Philippe Braun, and Philippe Legendre. Arriving in the United States in 2001, Émé made his way to Los Angeles as Executive Chef at the highly revered L’Orangerie where he challenged perceptions and French cooking technique by renouncing cream and butter sauces in favor of complex layered emulsions and natural jus. In 2005, Émé embarked on his first solo Los Angeles venture and opened the critically lauded Ortolan on West Third Street, where he showcased his impeccable haute cuisine. Shortly after Ortolan debuted in 2005, Émé was honored by Food & Wine as one of the “10 Best New Chefs” and subsequently earned a Michelin star in 2007. After setting a higher standard for the next generation of French restaurants, Émé is now moving in a new direction by introducing KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant.

Wine Consultant Taylor Parsons (Whole Cluster Consulting, République, Spago, Mozza, Campanile) curated the KASS Wine List. “This is a tightly focused wine list created with the purpose to provide pleasure and not intimidation, with wines that serve the neighborhood and the cuisine of Émé.” says Parsons. Thoughtfully overseen by KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant Sommelier and Manager Kyley Jacoby, the KASS Wine List is comprised of seventy percent French Wines, with an emphasis on the Loire Valley in honor of Émé’s home region, with the remaining thirty percent made up of varietals ranging from France, Europe, and California. Designed for connoisseurs and novices alike, the Wines by the Glass are available to sip and swish, beginning with effervescent Sparkling section including the Jacky Blot, Montlouis Brut ‘Tradition’ Loire Valley NV or the Laherte Freres, Extra Brut ‘Ultradition’ Champagne NV. The single Pink offering stands poised and proud, the Vinca Minor, Carignan Rosé Sonoma County 2017, while the White section offers an array of global choices beginning with the Domaine Daulny, Sancerre Loire Valley 2017; the German Andi Knauss, White Blend ‘Boutanche’ Württemberg 2017, or the Frantz Chagnoleau Macon-Villages La Carruge Burgundy 2016, while the Domaine Dupasquier, Roussette de Savoie, Savoie 2013 rounds off the white wines by the glass. The Red section starts with a trio from France, kicking-off with the Jean-Marc Burgaud, Morgon Côte du Py, Beaujolais 2017, a Loire Valley 2016 Domaine Filliatreau, Saumur-Champigny ‘La Grande Vignolle’, and a Domaine de Majas, VdP Côtes Catalanes Carignan Blend Roussillon 2017, before heading over to the Piedmont region of Italy to enjoy a 2016 Brovia, Dolcetto d’Alba ‘Vignavillej’ and the 2016 Piedrasassi, Syrah ‘PS’ from Santa Barbara County. While sharing delectable dishes with good company, the Wines by the Bottle offer an ideal respite to relax and unwind, beginning with Sparkling Wines in two significant categories: Champagne and Not Champagne, followed by a respectable selection of Pink Wine, and a vast library of White Wine that is categorized as Energetic, Fruity, and Muscular, with an equally impressive variety of Red Wine, categorized by dominant notes Bright, Juicy, Earthy and Plush, and a boutique selection Sweet & Fortified Wine.

Chef Émé utilizes his near thirty years of expertise to present a concise, but yet approachable KASS Dinner Menu featuring appetizers and entrées, which will experience weekly variant twists curated by Émé, depending on the availability of fresh, seasonal ingredients from the local Farmers Market. Guests will have the pleasure of watching Émé directly in his element in the open kitchen, along with his condensed, but highly skilled team, with a window perfect for awestruck onlookers. The ever-evolving KASS Dinner Menu will feature dishes such as the Salad of Baby Beets with black lentils and aged Comté; the Oxtail Parmentier made with marrow bone and Burgundy truffles; the Farro Risotto, accompanied by celery root, kale, and Morel mushrooms, and the Chicken Cooked in Clay served with wild mushroom sauce and green asparagus. Dessert will include delectable treats, like the silky Chocolate Tart accompanied by chocolate sorbet. Ever the artiste, Émé showcases every dish like a work of art, be the canvas the Pordamsa porcelain plateware, which showcases a mimicry of patterns and textures found in nature, or the Shichirin Hida Konro, a miniature Japanese portable charcoal grill and the black slate cutlery. Whatever the vessel, presentation will be at the forefront alongside flavor and technique.

A clean, contemporary space designed by Émé with assistance from Annie May of Kuskin / May Designs, harmonizes between warm and cool neutrals and the perfect balance between natural and manmade materials. Warm enough to be inviting, but cool enough to retain a sleekness, this stylishly inviting space offers guests three atmospheric experiences: The Wine Bar, where cheese, charcuterie and oysters are the perfect accompaniment to wine offerings and spirited conversation, and the Dining Room which offers plush banquette seating ideal for intimate and vibrant gatherings alike. The Outdoor Patio welcomes guests with cozy woven rattan nest chairs and low tables perfect for enjoying a bottle of wine, enclosed by a wood plank façade, mimicking a Japanese hinoki, successfully encapsulating KASS guests away from the bustling street. “KASS is an involved experience; I want guests to come in for the atmosphere as much for the wine and the food,” says Émé.

With an ever-expanding array of top eateries such as République, Sugarfish, Sycamore Kitchen, Odys + Penelope, and trendsetting shopping destinations like American Rag, Best Made, Champion, Undefeated, Kelly Cole USA and Aether Apparel, KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant by Chef Christophe Émé is a chic, sophisticated and welcoming new addition to this bustling street that offers an approachable French dinner menu and unparalleled wine list, in a lively setting!

KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant is open for Dinner every Tuesday through Saturday from 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm, and every Sunday from 6:00 pm to 9:30 pm. The KASS Wine Bar is open every Tuesday through Saturday from 5:00 pm to 12:00 Midnight, and every Sunday from 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm. For reservations, please visit KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant Yelp Reservations or call KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant directly at 323.413.2299.

Please follow KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant on Instagram @kassrestaurant or on Facebook

KASS Wine Bar + Restaurant

320 South La Brea Avenue

Los Angeles, CA 90036

T: 323.413.2299

Vintage Eve Circa Jan 2016: The Tasting Panel Magazine’s Annual Champagne Tasting

January 29, 2019 by evebushman Leave a Comment

About a month ago I attended an all Rose sparkling and Champagne tasting courtesy of the Tasting Panel Magazine, an annual event held just before the new year. This past year’s event was held at the charming Sotto Restaurant in LA.

The tasting is set up as a self-pour format and attended by various members of the press and wine community – people that can be trusted to spit and not over pour. I like the tasting as I can not only control the pour, I can usually complete the event in about 90 minutes. The downfall is that there is no way to take notes while holding my glass in one hand. I can only accomplish that at a sit-down tasting.

It’s important to me to give a shout out to the Tasting Panel Magazine for hosting this event, it really is quite a nice way to end the year and very generous of them to host it.

And for my readers had to wait until January to read this: Sparkling wine and Champagne can be enjoyed all year long, and not just for special occasions like New Year’s Eve. I learned the lesson well when reading and reviewing The Widow Clicquot, and I dare you to argue with her logic.

Now, moving on, I have the complete list of wines below that were shared, and some one-word descriptors (a bit wine-stained but I can make them out) in CAPS and italics for the wines I enjoyed the most and/or found the most interesting. You can also see a brief slideshow of my faves here in and under 1-minute YouTube.

The List

USA Michelle NV Brut Rosé – Columbia Valley

USA Gruet NV Brut Rosé – USA

USA Piper Sonoma NV Brut Rosé – Sonoma County WOW

USA Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs – Carneros

USA Gruet 2010 Grande Rosé – New Mexico

USA Frank Family Vineyards 2011 Brut Rosé – Carneros

USA J. Schram 2007 Rosé – North Coast AGED GREAT

Tasmania Jansz Tasmania NV Premium Rosé – INTERESTING

Spain Cavas Hill NV Rosado 1887 – Cava

Spain Pere Ventura NV Tresor Brut Rosé – Cava WOW

Spain Vilarnau NV Brut Rosado – Cava

Italy Mionetto NV Prestige Gran Rosé – Veneto/Trentino

Italy Lamberti NV Spumante Rosé – Veneto IGT

Italy Masottina NV Cuvée Brut Rosé – Veneto IGT

Italy Buglioni Lo Spudorato 2013

Italy Ferrari NV Rosé – Trento DOC

Italy Ferrari Perle NV Rosé – Trento DOC YUM

France Charles de Fere NV Cuvée Jean-Louis Brut Rosé

France Charles de Fere NV Réserve Rosé – France

France Gratien & Meyer NV Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé – A.O.C.

France Grandin NV Brut Rosé – Loire Valley

France Le Grand Courtâge NV Grande Cuvée Brut Rosé

France Pierre Sparr NV Brut Rose – Crémant d’Alsace

France JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset NV No. 69 Rosé BRIGHT

Champagne Bernard Rémy Brut Rosé

Champagne Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Rosé WELL DONE

Champagne Lanson rose label brut

Champagne Alfred Gratien Classic Rosé

Champagne Veuve Clicquot NV Yellow Label Rosé PERFECT

Champagne Champagne Henriot Brut Rosé, NV BALANCED

Champagne Champagne Palmer Rose Reserve NV

Champagne GH Mumm Brut Rose NV LOVELY

Champagne Duval-Leroy Rosé Prestige Brut NV PERFECT

Champagne Ernest Remy Rosé de Saignée INTERESTING

Champagne Leclerc Briant Brut Rose NV UNIQUE

Champagne Leclerc Briant Rubis de Noirs 2006 UNIQUE

Champagne Champagne Philippe Gonet

Champagne Champagne Taittinger Prestige Rose

Champagne Gosset Grand Rose

Champagne NV Champagne Delamotte, Brut Rosé

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve NV YUMMY

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Vintage Rose 2006 OMG

Champagne Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque Rose 2006 OMG

Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 2004 PERFECT

Champagne Armand de Brignac Rosé PERFECT

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

America’s Best Wine Festival Returns to One of America’s 10 Best Small Historic Towns: Garagiste Festival Comes to Solvang February 8th – 10th

January 26, 2019 by evebushman Leave a Comment

PASO ROBLES, Calif. (PRWEB) – The Garagiste Wine Festival, which was named America’s Best Wine Festival by USA Today, returns February 8th – 10th to Solvang, which was named One of America’s 10 Best Small Historic Towns by USA Today. Tickets are now on sale.

This marks the seventh year that the Garagiste Festival: Southern Exposure has showcased the wines of some of California’s best small production winemakers in one of California’s most charming small towns, which is celebrating its 107th anniversary this year. Solvang is in the heart of the renowned Santa Ynez Valley wine country, just north of picturesque Santa Barbara, California.

“America’s best wine festival meets one of America’s best historic small towns for the seventh year in a row…what could make for a better wine country weekend?” said Garagiste Festival Co-founder Doug Minnick. “There is a special place in our hearts for Solvang, and for the amazing small production winemakers who pour at this venue. Solvang, and the beautiful Veteran’s Memorial Hall, lend such a charming and intimate setting for attendees to chat and taste with the winemakers and owners who will be pouring their hard-to-find wines. We love the diversity of the wines poured here, with multiple micro-climates, grape varieties and innovative blends represented.”

Over 40 winemakers from Santa Barbara County and across California converge at Solvang’s Mission-style Veterans’ Memorial Hall to pour over 150 wines over three days of events which include the continuation of the festival’s ‘Original Garagiste’ seminars, moderated by Garagiste Festival Co-founder and KRUSH radio host, Stewart McLennan, and, this year, featuring Central Coast winemaking legend Ken Brown of Ken Brown Wines.

“We are proud to lead off our main event with a one-on-one discussion and tasting with Ken Brown – a true original ‘garagiste’ many years before micro-production winemaking became a movement,” said McLennan. “Ken was one of the first to recognize the cool climate potential of this region back in the 70s and to craft delicious wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay right here in Santa Barbara. We are looking forward to an informative and inspiring conversation as we taste some of his delicious wines.”

Brown, whose Ken Brown Wines focuses on very small lots of Pinot Noir from the finest vineyards of Sta. Rita Hills, is recognized as one of Santa Barbara County’s pioneering winemakers and innovators. Not only was he among the first vintners to realize the tremendous promise for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Santa Barbara County, but he was also the first winemaker to introduce the Syrah grape, as well as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, to the region. He was founding winemaker at Zaca Mesa Winery and spent 20-years at Byron Vineyard and Winery which later sold to the Robert Mondavi family. In this seminar, attendees will learn how he helped shape the Santa Barbara wine scene and why he ultimately returned to small-lot winemaking.

The Garagiste Festival: Southern Exposure 2019 kicks off on Friday, February 8th from 6:30-9:00pm with the very popular “No Repeats, Rare & Reserve,” where attendees can get up close and personal with the winemakers as they share limited Club Only, Library and Pre-Release bottles and Barrel samples, and enjoy a BBQ buffet from local favorite Tim’s BBQ. On Saturday, the seminar with Ken Brown, “Original Garagistes: A Deep Dive & Tasting,” runs from 11:00 am – 12:30 pm and includes a Wine Country boxed lunch (VIP/Weekend pass ticket holders only). The day continues with the main event, the Grand Tasting, from 2-5pm showcasing over 40 winemakers pouring 150+ wines and 20+ unique varieties. All tickets include unlimited tastes, complimentary cheese and charcuterie and a souvenir Stolzle crystal wine glass – plus a Silent Auction full of enticing wine packages which benefits The Garagiste Scholarship at Cal Poly. On Sunday, Garagiste Passport Day returns, offering discounts and special offers to festival attendees at area wineries.

The festival also announced that it will return to Sonoma California for its 2nd Annual Sonoma Garagiste Festival the weekend of April 13, 2019. Said Minnick: “We are very excited to return to Northern California in April. The reception we received last year was fantastic and we already have an exciting group of No Cal micro-production wineries signed up. Stay tuned!”

Dubbed “tasting nirvana”, ‘strange and wondrous’, and “one not to miss” by the LA Times, the Garagiste Festival is renowned for its renegade spirit, passionate winemakers, handcrafted wines and rules-breaking, ‘no snobs allowed’ ethos. Launched in Paso Robles in 2011, the festival features the wines of commercial garagiste* winemakers who make under 1500 cases at festivals across California, including Solvang, Sonoma, Los Angeles and Paso Robles. Over 350 different wineries have poured over 3,000 wines for over 10,000 wine lovers at Garagiste Festivals since inception and the festival has raised over $125K in support of The Garagiste Scholarship at Cal Poly.

For full Garagiste Festival: Southern Exposure 2019 schedule details, go to http://californiagaragistes.com/2019-syv-fest/

Tickets are very limited and Garagiste Festivals always sell out. To buy tickets, go to: https://bit.ly/2Bcs0ck. For breaking festival news and special discounts, sign-up for our free newsletter, The Dirt at http://garagistefestival.com/sign-up/ or follow us on Twitter (@GaragisteFest) or Facebook.

Among the over 40 winemakers already scheduled to pour are:
Ascension Cellars, Bodega de Edgar, Bolshoi Family Wines*, Cloak & Dagger Wines, Copia Vineyards, Cordon Wines, Cutruzzola Vineyards, D. Volk Wines, Dascomb Cellars, Hoi Polloi Winery, Kaleidos Winery, Kimsey Vineyards*, Lepiane Wines, Metrick Wines, Montemar Winery, RF Fine Wines*, Ryan Cochrane Wines, Sycamore Ranch, Temperance Cellars*, Tercero Wines and Westerly Wines.*

*First time pouring at the Solvang Festival.

Sponsors include:
AEB, California Winery Advisor, City of Santa Ynez Valley, Digital Dogma, Distinctive Glassware, ETS Laboratories, Farm Credit West, Glenn Burdette, G3 Enterprises, Hamlet Inn, The Hanover Insurance Group, House of Copper, Laffort U.S.A., mWEBB Communications, Wine Industry Insight, Wine Reach App, WiVi Central Coast Conference & Tradeshow.

For sponsorship info, email info(at)garagistefestival.com.

About The Garagiste Wine Festival
The Garagiste Wine Festival (http://www.garagistefestival.com), named the ‘Best Wine Festival in the US in 2018 in USA Today’s 10Best Readers Choice Awards, is the first and only wine festival dedicated to the undiscovered and under-recognized American artisan ‘garagiste’ producers who are making some of the best, most exciting, handcrafted small-lot production wines in the world. Founded by fellow garagistes Stewart McLennan and Douglas Minnick, the Garagiste Festivals are committed to discovering the best and most innovative limited-production winemakers and promoting and showcasing them to a broad audience of discerning wine consumers. In addition to its flagship annual festival in Paso Robles, CA, the Garagiste Festival line-up includes Garagiste Festival: Southern Exposure, featuring Santa Ynez Valley garagistes; the Garagiste Festival: Urban Exposure, in Los Angeles; the Garagiste Festival, Northern Exposure, in Sonoma; winemaker dinners, a newsletter, garagiste profiles and more.

In addition to being named the US’ Best Wine Festival, the Garagiste Festival was named one of the ‘Top Nine Incredible Epicurean Vacations’ in the world by ABC News, * “one of the premier wine events of the year,” by the LA Times and “Best Festival” by Sunset Magazine’s ‘Best of the West.’ The festivals are produced by Garagiste Events, a non-profit dedicated to furthering the education of future winemakers and those training for employment within the wine industry. Proceeds from the festivals support the Garagiste Festival Scholarship fund of the California Polytechnic State University at San Luis Obispo Wine and Viticulture Department.

*Garagistes (garage-east) is a term originally used in the Bordeaux region of France to denigrate renegade small-lot wine makers, sometimes working in their “garages” (anything considered not a chateau), who refused to follow the “rules,” and is now a full-fledged movement responsible for making some of the best wine in the world. The Garagiste Festivals were the first to shine a light on the American garagiste winemaker in 2011.

Perlis Picks: Zialena

January 5, 2019 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

An Irishman, an Israeli and a Korean walk into a tasting room.

While this may sound like the opening line of a bad joke it is actually how I found out about Zialena.

The Irishman and his Israeli wife are friends of ours. They were visiting Sonoma County with their friend, the Korean gentleman, when their driver suggested they go to a fairly new winery that they had not yet heard of.

They enjoyed their experience so much that they gave me the Tasting Room Manager’s business card. When we were planning our trip a few months later, I reached out to Reece Channell to schedule a visit.

When we drove up the long winding driveway to the modernistic winery and tasting room in Alexander Valley, I thought at first I was at the winery of some wealthy dabbler with a vanity winery project; the place looks that cool.

It turns out I was totally wrong, as the owners of Zialena have deep roots in the area, being one of those “becoming-rare-like-a-unicorn” families that Scot Bilbro alluded to in my previous article.

In fact, the Mazzoni family’s story in Geyserville goes back to the early 1900s when Giuseppe Mazzoni emigrated from Italy. He became a grape farmer and winemaker with Italian Swiss Colony. Giuseppe’s sons produced wine commercially until the 1970s (look for the old barn off the 101 with the Dr. Pierce’s sign on it) after which grandson Mike established Mazzoni Vineyards.

As often happens, Mike’s kids Lisa and Mark wanted to get the family back into the winemaking business, and Zialena (with Mark as winemaker and Lisa as General Manager) was born, naming it after their aunt (“Zia” in Italian) Lena. The winery and tasting room buildings that I found to be so cool were designed to showcase the family property as well as highlight the modern aspects of the winery itself. The centerpiece of the winery are several open-top concrete fermentation tanks which are emblazoned with what I had initially thought to be a starburst pattern but turned out to be the pattern of Zia Lena’s ravioli stamp, which is the logo of the winery.

Tasting is available in the tasting room or on the patio. As the weather was great, we opted for the patio and tasted through some of the current releases:

2016 Sauvignon Blanc

2017 Rose of Sangiovese

2014 Capella

2013 Zinfandel

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon

2015 Zinfandel

This was a very tasty selection. The Sauvignon Blanc and the Rose of Sangiovese were both very refreshing, the Sangio in particular picking up that grape’s complexity. The 2013 Cabernet showcases the fruit that makes Sonoma County my favorite destination for Cab. The 2014 Cappela is a true Zinfandel-based field blend that is an homage to the family history and is delicious.

Speaking of Zins, those for me were the shining stars, not to mention having an interesting story behind them.

It wasn’t until Mark and Lisa had already started making wine at Zialena that their father Mike happened to mention the Mazzoni clone of Zinfandel.

This is how Reece explained it:

In the drafting process of the vineyard map with varietals and acreage breakdown Mike mentions very nonchalantly “….. and this is planted with Mazzoni clone Zinfandel.” Both Mark and Lisa immediately ask, “Wait what? Mazzoni clone Zinfandel? What is that?” Mike then tells the story of how Duff Bevill of Bevill Vineyard Management came across Giuseppe’s original vineyard at the location of the Doctor Pierce’s barn. Eventually Duff came over to talk to Mike about it because he was the only family member who knew about the old home ranch. They decided to find out more about the Zinfandel on the property by taking bud wood to UC Davis for analysis. Sure enough Davis had not seen this Zinfandel before! It was then registered by Davis as the Bevill/Mazzoni clone of Zinfandel. It is a heritage pre-prohibition clone. Mark and Lisa are very proud to be the fourth generation to grow the clone and to make a 100% single vineyard, single clone Zinfandel out of it.

This story was especially meaningful to us, as we are deeply interested in California’s heritage grapes and vineyards.

Zialena has a bright future ahead. The current winery was only completed a couple of years ago (previous vintages were made at a custom crush), so one has to feel that as good as the wines are now, the best is yet to come.

Zialena

21112 River Road

Geyserville, CA 95441

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Marietta Cellars

December 29, 2018 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Recently, I wrote an article about Sam Bilbro’s Idlewild Wines. In the past, I’ve written about Jake Bilbro’s Limerick Lane Winery. But to truly attempt to grasp the influence of the Bilbro family on Sonoma County – indeed California – wine, one really needs to go back to where it started: Marietta Cellars.

Chris Bilbro, patriarch of the Bilbro clan, founded Marietta Cellars in 1978, naming it after his great-aunt. He bought the current winery property in 1990. Scot Bilbro took over winery operations from his father a few years back. He toured the winery with us on our visit, along with Jenifer Freebairn (Marietta’s VP of Sales and Marketing). Winery equipment is a curious mix of old and new equipment and that’s how Scot likes it. Production is now at about 65,000 cases annually and there are no direct-to-consumer sales. [So, why am I here, right?]

“Scot,” I said, “you are somewhat of a unicorn.”

Scot laughingly asked me “Michael, what do you mean?” even though I was sure he understood my point.

For many years, I have been an extremely vocal proponent of buying wine directly from small family owned wineries. “Don’t buy at big retail stores,” I’d say. “Support the little guys who are crafting their authentic wines by hand.” Now here comes Marietta Cellars, selling only to stores and restaurants through a network of distributors. And at 65,000 cases, while not a big winery in the corporate world, Marietta is definitely on the larger size of “small family owned wineries.”

Which brought me to my “unicorn” comment because off the top of my head I don’t know of any other family owned wineries that only sell wholesale.

Scot said that they were a “unicorn” in another way too. Families like the Bilbros, the Mauritsons and a few others are part of an ever shrinking group that has been farming the area for decades. While Scot in no way bemoaned the new blood that is coming into the region, he did acknowledge that families like the Bilbros are becoming more and more rare in Sonoma County.

As I said, no direct to consumer sales and therefore – no tasting room. But my writer’s card did get us an opportunity sit down with Scot and Jen to taste some of the winery’s current releases.

The largest production of the winery goes to the OVR series, which is most known for Old Vine Red but there is also an Old Vine Rose and an Old Vine Riesling. We tasted Old Vine Red Lot Number 67 which is a Zinfandel heavy blend. This wine was first produced in 1982 and doesn’t have vintage designations as it is a combination of grapes from different years.

As is a characteristic of Marietta Cellars wines, the OVR really over-delivers at its low price point – I’ve seen this wine for well under $20. My only complaint about this wine is it might encourage people to feel that this wine is so delicious why would they need to expand their horizons [i.e. pay more]?

My answer to them would be: the best is yet to come.

And that would be the next tier up, the Family series, each wine being named after a beloved member of Marietta Cellars’ extended family. We tasted the 2016 “Román” a Zinfandel (named after cellar master Roman Cisneros, who has been with Marietta Cellars over 30 years – one of several long-term employees), the 2015 “Armé” a Cabernet Sauvignon (named after Marietta’s husband) and the 2015 “Christo”, an intense Syrah-based blend named after Chris Bilbro himself.

All of these wines had great fruit and mouthfeel with long finishes, most notable to me in the Christo. But what I really got from these wines was a feeling of comfort. They are just really good tasting wines that you want to curl up and read a good book with or enjoy with a hearty meal.

These attributes carried over — and then some – to the top tier Estate series as well. As the name implies, this series showcases some of the special vineyards that Marietta works with. The 2016 Angeli Zinfandel (named after the family that settled the property in the late 1800s), the 2015 Game Trail Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2015 Gibson Block Syrah were all wines you just didn’t want to dump from your tasting glass. Especially that Syrah which was just amazing.

As I’ve said [too many times?], you can’t buy these wines directly from the winery. So, don’t go showing up on their doorstep asking for a taste. I suggest you use the Find Wine tool on their website to see where you can get your hands on some.

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Ev Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Perlis Picks: Mauritson

December 22, 2018 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

“Sense of place” is often bandied about in conversations about wine. Wines should not only be delicious but they should reflect their terroir – where they are from and the conditions unique to the vintage. The Rockpile AVA in Sonoma County is one of our favorite sources of wines that epitomize where they are from. Located at the far western end of the Dry Creek Valley, for me the wines (especially Zinfandels) from this area make me think of a combination of the power of Paso Robles with the complexity of the Russian River Valley.

So, when Clay Mauritson, in response to my inquiry about Karen and me visiting with him at his namesake winery during harvest, suggested that we spend the morning out in Rockpile to get grape samples, that sounded pretty exciting to us.

Mauritson is not too far from the entry to the Dry Creek Valley just west of Healdsburg. We met Clay there at 8 AM and headed west to Rockpile. Along the way Clay told us about some of the area’s history and the impact that Clay’s family has had on it.

Clay’s family emigrated from Sweden. Clay told us that “they settled in the Rockpile area of Dry Creek Valley and began growing grapes immediately, circa 1868. In 1884 my great, great, great, grandfather attempted to export wine back to his homeland of Sweden.” The homestead and ranch had grown to about 4,000 acres until 1968 when the Army Corps of Engineers acquired 3,300 acres of the land owned by the Mauritson family by virtue of eminent domain due to the perceived need to build a dam, thereby creating Lake Sonoma. Clay said, “When we lost the Rockpile property, my grandparents purchased the ranch in Alexander Valley where they continued growing grapes. The Rockpile property was used for livestock: sheep and cattle, but we did not resume growing grapes there until 1998.” But it wasn’t until Clay returned from college and worked in the winemaking industry in the area that he made the decision that the Mauritson name should actually be on wine bottle labels as the winery. The Mauritson winery was officially born with the release of its first vintage in 1998. The modern winery and tasting room was opened in 2004.

It didn’t take long for Clay to revisit the Rockpile area and realize its potential for making great wine. The Mauritson Rockpile Zinfandels are some of my all-time favorites. Rockpile was granted official AVA status in 2002, due primarily to the efforts of Clay’s dad Thom along with Rod Park and Jack Florence Sr.

Clay also discussed how happy he was with the current 2018 harvest. The growing season had been virtually perfect. Sometimes near the end of the growing season, the threat of impending heat spikes or rain could impact when the grapes are picked. Not this year. The grapes only needed to be picked when they were ready to be picked. Clay said that they test the grapes early and often at Mauritson, so they can plan the optimal picking window. He explained you can do a lot of things at the winery but you “can’t change the flavors” – those happen in the vineyard.

Walking the vineyards with Clay as he pulled samples to take back to the winery for testing, I felt a new appreciation for an AVA that has always been at the top of my list of favorites. And since I wanted to play “winery helper” and carry the buckets that Clay was filling, I also felt a greater appreciation for the hard work that happens in the vineyard, especially those steep ones in Rockpile. I am sure that Clay would have finished sooner without me, but my excuse is that I am 63 and out of shape while Clay is 20+ years younger and still looks like he did in his football playing days at Oregon.

We spent a couple of hours in the vineyards and I admittedly weenied out and let Clay walk at least one of them alone. But now it was time to head back to the winery and taste some wine.

While when I think of Mauritson I automatically think of Zinfandel, I soon found out those aren’t the only varietals that Clay is making, and making well, I might add.

We tasted through several wines:

2017 Mauritson Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley – I really liked the richness of this wine.

2017 Mauritson Chardonnay, Alexander Valley

2016 Charlie Clay Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley – Clay makes this with/for renowned Chef Charlie Palmer; the only wine he makes with purchased grapes.

2015 Mauritson Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley – Excellent in its own right, this was a great lead-in for the Rockpile wines…

2016 Rockpile Zinfandel, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard

2016 Rockpile Zinfandel, Cemetery Vineyard

2016 Rockpile Zinfandel, Pritchett Peaks Vineyard

All three of these wines were excellent representations of what Rockpile is known for.

We also tasted three more wines from Rockpile:

2016 Rockpile “Madrone Spring” blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah

2015 Rockpile “Buck Pasture” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc.

2015 Rockpile Cabernet Sauvignon, Rockpile Ridge Vineyard

All of these showcased the intensity of the Rockpile fruit.

Whew. Clay makes a lot of wines and we didn’t even taste all of them. But, as an added bonus we got to taste one of the wines from Clay’s single soil Cabernet series, which focuses on producing Cab from four distinct soil types. We had the 2014 Clough and it was outstanding.

Something else to consider: Annually in August, Clay Mauritson and Chef Charlie Palmer co-host the Project Zin event in Healdsburg. This is a gathering of winemakers and chefs to benefit Down Syndrome Association North Bay. The winery lineup is Zinfandel heaven and August now looks like a pretty good time to visit the area.

You’ll find that several wineries make wine from Rockpile grapes – some even own vineyards in Rockpile and other just purchase grapes from the area – and you’d be hard pressed to find wine from this AVA that you won’t like. But I heartily recommend that you at least start your enjoyment of Rockpile wines with the family that had so much to do with putting Rockpile on the map in the first place – Mauritson.

Mauritson

2859 Dry Creek Road
Healdsburg, CA 95448

Perlis Picks: Idlewild

December 8, 2018 by Michael Perlis 2 Comments

It is hard to talk about wine in Sonoma County without the name Bilbro coming up.

I’ve written more than once about Jake Bilbro and the outstanding wines that he is making at Limerick Lane.

Did you know that two other Bilbro brothers also make wine? One of them is Scot, who is carrying on the tradition of father Chris at Marietta Cellars [more on him in a future article].

And then there is Sam. Sam actually hadn’t planned on making wine. He essentially grew up at Marietta Cellars but the thought of making what Sonoma County is known for like the Rhones and Zins that Marietta Cellars and Limerick Lane make or the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which also tend to dominate the region apparently didn’t appeal to him. He had planned to do something else with his life.

Yet, we found ourselves in an industrial center north of Healdsburg in Geyserville, trying to track Sam down and find out what had changed. We circled around the center for a while, seeing other winemakers doing their thing, but couldn’t find Sam. I finally gave in to my natural disinclination to ask for directions and called him. He promptly flagged us down from the very back of the center where he shares space with a few other small wineries.

It was the middle of harvest and the winery was busy with workers as well as incoming grapes. We didn’t want to be in the way or take up too much of Sam’s time [we had actually pulled him away from his lunch] but we did chat for a little while about what he was doing.

The big question, of course, was what made him decide to go into winemaking after having decided that he wasn’t going to? The answer was Nebbiolo. One day, tasting an authentic version of this wine, Sam’s passion for Italian varietals was triggered, specifically those from Piedmont, and from that day forward he knew he wanted to make them. So Idlewild was born.

Piedmontese grapes such as Arneis and Cortese – for white wines—and Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo for reds are sourced from Mendocino County and turned into wine at that Geyserville industrial park. Until recently they could only be obtained via the winery’s mailing list or at a few restaurants. That’s changed though as Sam recently opened a tasting room for Idlewild just off the Healdsburg town square.

We knew that Sam needed to get back to work and we wanted to taste the wine and not only those just-picked Barbera grapes, delicious as they were. So we left Sam to his duties and headed down to that new tasting room.

Idlewild makes three “entry level” [for lack of a better term] blends: The Bee (white), The Flower (rose) and The Bird (red), as well as single-varietal bottlings of Arneis, Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cortese and Dolcetto. In the tasting room we got to taste the latest releases of the single-varietals as well as the rose. [Please note that we’ve tasted prior vintages of the white blend as well as we had purchased some as part of Idlewild’s fundraising efforts relating to the 2017 fires – all three Bilbro wineries participated in these efforts.]

I really like wines that are delicious and fun to drink [Who doesn’t, right? Duh.] I also really like wines that get your attention and require some contemplation. These wines do both, which doesn’t always happen. All of these wines are very tasty, well made wines with complex attributes. My two favorites were the Cortese and the Barbera. The Cortese is Sam’s version of an Orange wine [i.e. fermented on the skins]. I am a fan of Orange wines but I’ve found that some of them taste like, well, a mistake. Not this wine. It has just enough added complexity from the skin contact to make it an all-around winner. And the Barbera is just a great mouthful of berries and figs.

This is a great winery to check out, especially if you are interested in experiencing some out-of-the-ordinary California wines. Or, if you just like really good ones.

Idlewild Wines
132 Plaza St
Healdsburg, CA 95448

Wine Road Kicks Off Event Season With 20th Annual Wine & Food Affair

October 31, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

HEALDSBURG, Calif. /PRNewswire/ — Wine Road, an association of wineries and lodgings in Northern Sonoma County, announces their upcoming 2018 – 2019 event season featuring three signature annual events: Wine & Food Affair, Winter WINEland and Barrel Tasting. All three events allow guests to visit participating wineries stretching across Sonoma County’s Alexander, Dry Creek, and Russian River Valleys throughout the event weekend.

Photo: Wine Road Facebook page.

Wine Road’s event season kicks off with the 20^th Annual Wine & Food Affair, November 3-4, 2018, 11am – 4pm, featuring two full days of tantalizing food and wine pairings along the Wine Road. Each participating winery offers a taste of gourmet cuisine prepared by a local culinary artist paired with the wine of their choice. Popular pairings in past years include Bacon Fudge Brownies with Syrah Port; New England Clam Chowder with Chardonnay; Mac & Cheese with Pulled Ham paired with Pinot Noir; and Braised Meatball Sliders and Zinfandel. Advance tickets are now on sale online for the weekend ($80), Sunday only ($60), and Designated Driver ($30).

After the hectic holidays, the first event of 2019 is Winter WINEland, January 19-20. This “all about the wine” event that provides the perfect winter escape in which visitors can enjoy a less crowded wine country tasting adventure. Advance tickets will begin online on November 6, 2018 and are $45 for the weekend, $35 for Sunday only, and $5 for designated drivers.

Lastly, Wine Road will host their 42^nd annual Barrel Tasting Weekends, March 1-3 and 8-10. The event offers two weekends of barrel sampling and the opportunity to purchase “futures,” essentially a chance to buy, often at a discount, a wine that is still aging in the barrel. Advance tickets to Barrel Tasting will go on sale online Sunday October 7, 2018 and are $50 for the weekend, $40 for Sunday only, $5 for designated drivers.

ABOUT WINE ROAD NORTHERN SONOMA COUNTY:

The Wine Road is a travel resource for those looking to visit the region, which is famous for its renowned wine producers and cuisine, scenic beauty, and wine country lifestyle. Made up of 200 wineries and 54 lodgings throughout the Alexander, Dry Creek, and Russian River valleys in Sonoma County, something is always going on along the Wine Road.

Perlis Picks: Hoyt Family Vineyards

September 1, 2018 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

Have you heard of tiny houses? There’ve been a few television shows about them. My wife Karen occasionally watches them and I’ll sometimes lift my head up from wine-related Facebook conversations to see what’s up.

Basically, people downsize to a minimum level of possessions and space requirements in order to live in very small residences, simplifying their lives in the process. Now what that minimum level is varies from family to family depending on their own situation. The whole idea has never really appealed to me; for one thing, what to do with the wine?

But, to stay in a tiny house in a vineyard on the west side of Paso Robles? Heck yes, that is very appealing.

The first episode of DIY Network’s “Cabin Brothers” featured the development and construction of two tiny homes on the vineyard property of Hoyt Family Vineyards. The “brothers” are twins John and Ron Daniels [formerly of the show “Redwood Kings”] and their company Daniels Wood Land is conveniently based in Tin City just south of downtown Paso Robles.

The cabins/homes have all the amenities – two bedrooms [one is a master with a queen size bed and the other is smaller with bunk beds], a shower and full kitchen. Our vineyard view cabin gave us a full frontal view of the beautiful vineyard – just be careful not to give a full frontal view to the vineyard workers; this is a working winery, after all. In case you’re wondering, you also have satellite TV and Wi-Fi.

But all this would mean nothing to me if the wines didn’t measure up.

For a little bit about how that started, we have to begin in…Malibu.

Carol and Stephen Hoyt moved to Malibu and planted their Chardonnay vineyard on their property in 2001. Carol, a self-taught winemaker, made her first wine with purchased Cabernet fruit while waiting for the first Chardonnay grapes to be ready to harvest in 2004. Since that time, Hoyt Family Vineyards became known for producing delicious Chardonnay from Malibu.

But we all know that there is more to wine than Chardonnay, yummy as it is, and in 2011 the Hoyts purchased 86 acres on the west side of Paso Robles in the very highly regarded Willow Creek District, with neighbors like Booker, Tablas Creek and most recently Clos Solene [in other words, a pretty darn good neighborhood], to expand the estate offerings of Hoyt Family Vineyards. After much work [some still ongoing] on the vineyards, which now consist of two adjacent properties totaling 140 acres with 30 acres planted, they now also produce Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Grenache and Petit Verdot.

Tastings are available by appointment at the vineyard property, which is especially convenient if you are staying there. But we wanted to check out the new tasting room in downtown Paso Robles. Located just north of the busy park square, the Hoyt Family Vineyards tasting room is a wonderful addition to the downtown tasting room scene. It is now literally possible to spend a day (or more) tasting wine strolling around without ever needing to drive into the surrounding countryside, should you so choose.

We went through the whole lineup of wines, which I am pleased share with you here, including the winery’s notes:

White

Hoyt2Hoyt Sparkling Wine: Our newest addition, a sophisticated Methode Champignon sourced from Sonoma County. Light, crisp and refreshing. Perfect for a celebration or a Sunday morning. Dry, with notes of pear and apple, delicately tickles your fancy.

2015 Chardonnay: Our newest release! We have taken our Malibu estate grown Chardonnay through 100% malolactic and aged it in new and used French Oak. This is the wine that put us on the map! Crisp, with hints of oak and butter this Chardonnay’s acid is well balanced on your palate and could look forward to it aging beautifully, if you can wait, but we don’t think you will want to! It is our classic “Drink it all day Chardonnay”! Case Production 325

Muscat: For those of you who expect this wine to be overly sweet, we have a surprise for you! Made with no residual sugar, this Muscat presents itself as beautifully dry with a fragrant nose of citrus, clean and crisp. This is a onetime wine from our estate with a small production, get it before it’s gone! Case Production 30

Rosé

2017 Pinot Noir Rose: Sophisticated and elegant, best describes our estate Grown Pinot Noir Rose. This Rose, already turning heads and making a splash, claimed 99 points, double gold and best of class from the California State Fair. Notes of strawberry, and citrus make this perfect for the summer or for that matter anytime.

Red

“Dylema” Our fun red blend. Originally created for the Malibu Chili cook off, this has become a house favorite. A Cab based blend with a little bit of everything else thrown in. Smooth and easy on the palate, we were hard pressed as what to call it, so we named it after our kids, Dylan and Emma. Enjoy our “Dylema”. GOLD Medal Winner

Grenache: Our first Grenache! And we are delighted with its lovely gardenia and soft smokey pepper and burnt Cherry undertones. Case Production 80

2012 Tempranillo: Fruit forward, well balanced. The velvet feel rolls in your mouth, with magical notes of black currant, blackberries, blueberry, vanilla and cooking spices. Very limited production of this hand picked estate fruit. Case Production 55

2013 Petite Sirah: Our 2013 Petite Sirah is totally amazing. Big bold fruit, beautiful legs, rounded mouth feel, we think it’s like “sex in a bottle”. Very limited production, and we feel it will be winning Gold Medals- we expect nothing less!

2012 Cabernet Sauvignon: Already winning Best of Class by the San Francisco Wine Chronicle, this is our favorite Cab yet. It’s unbelievable round mouth feel, is chewy, fruit forward, leggy and lovely. A sophisticated Cab, very limited production, this wine won’t last! Case Production 96

These are very well made wines. The awards they are getting, such as the one from the Chronicle, are about as legit as they get. The Rose really knocked us out and the Petite Sirah is aptly described as amazing. As you can see, production is tiny on many of these so blink and they might be gone. But whatever they are pouring next will be sure to please.

Thank you to Nancy Hoffman of Hoyt Family Vineyards for hosting us at the property and at the tasting room, as well as giving us a whirlwind vineyard tour and pointing out the best places to enjoy a glass of wine at sunset. She is a joy to work with – don’t believe just me; check out the reviews on Airbnb. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/23712572

So, am I ready to give it all up and move into a tiny house? Probably not. But I would definitely stay again in a tiny cabin in a beautiful vineyard, especially this vineyard and this winery: Hoyt Family Vineyards. You should too.

Hoyt Family Vineyards

Tasting room:

1322 Park Street, Paso Robles, Ca. 93446

Vineyard:

2015 Township Rd, Paso Robles, Ca. 93446

Cabins:

2110 Township Rd, Paso Robles, Ca. 93446

What and Where is the Wine Road?

August 5, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Founded 41 years ago, Wine Road is an association of wineries and lodgings in the Alexander, Dry Creek, and Russian River valleys of Northern Sonoma County. From its modest beginning as an organization of nine wineries, it has grown into a spirited constellation of nearly 200 wineries and 54 lodgings. Wine Road is an indispensible resource guiding visitors and locals alike through the scenic bi-ways and backroads of the three valleys, and points the way to the fine wine and exquisite cuisine of the region.

Winding through some of the most picturesque wine country in California, Wine Road takes visitors on an exciting journey of natural beauty, superb tasting experiences, and memorable personal encounters with the state’s most devoted winemakers. Even for travelers already well acquainted with California wine country, Wine Road is likely to be uncharted territory–sure to imbue a fresh sense of discovery. Along the way are some of California’s oldest wineries, run by vintners whose commitment to tending the vines and producing world-class wines, true to the appellation, runs back generations.

Wine Road is also where modern, state-of-the-art wineries co-exist with small, artisanal producers for whom making wine is a way of life intertwined with the responsibilities of home and family. From Italian-style villas and French-style chateaux to boutique wineries, Wine Road provides a colorful glimpse into the world of winemaking. This is what makes traversing Wine Road a uniquely personal experience, and visitors will find their own enthusiasm for great wine reflected in the appreciation of these passionate producers.

This lively and committed organization has created a myriad of programs, events, and services certain to enhance any visitor’s experience of the region. The association hosts three celebrated wine events throughout the year: Winter WINEland in January; Barrel Tasting in March; and Wine and Food Affair in November, all of which bring thousands of visitors to the region.

For additional information, or to request a free map, visit www.wineroad.com, call 800.723.6336 or via e-mail at info@wineroad.com. Keep up with Wine Road on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram.