Vintage Eve Circa 4/2015: Chef Larry Monaco Pops Up at Frankie’s on Melrose

May 22, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

I miss the Frankie’s NY Italian Restaurant we had in the Bridgeport Marketplace that shuttered in July of 2013, and was vaguely aware that its sister restaurant (truth be told our restaurant’s former owner, Teresa Competelli, is Frankie’s daughter) had been open on Melrose for 25 years. So when I saw this Facebook post, “Chef Lawrence “Larry” Monaco Four-Course Tasting Menu Dinner and Wine Pairing at Frankie’s on Melrose” it was enough to make my taste buds cry out. I made my reservations, and this is what I enjoyed:

Chef Larry Monaco Dining

First Course

Spring Salad of Wild Rocket Arugula, Radicchio, Whipped Ricotta, Pickled Grapes, Corn Nuts, Shaved Fennel, Aged Sherry Vinaigrette and paired with 2013 Altanuta Pinot Grigio.

The wine had pleasant notes of lemon and honey dew melon, sweet edged and balanced. I enjoyed it with the salad’s nutty (the Corn Nuts really were a cool – very unexpected – addition) pickled and creamy flavors. We were off to a good start!

Second Course

Humanely Raised Certified Beef Tartare, Barolo Shallots, Tallow Farmed Weiser Farms Potato Chips, Quail Egg paired with what the waiter described as a “full-bodied rosé” that had notes of strawberry, maraschino cherry, raspberry and cherry: a 2013 Vitiano Rosato from Umbria made with Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Aleatico.

Together the medium acid and fruit in the wine, against the pleasantly gamey dish (I wonder if it was the tartare and quail egg that gave it that quality), worked great as a palate cleanser between bites. And we enjoyed scooping up every last morsel with the chips.

Third Course

Rabbit Stew, Coarse Ground Creamy Polenta, Niçoise Olives, Extra Virgin Olive Oil paired with 2013 Briccotondo Barbera. This was my favorite wine of the night with aromas of stewed plum, black cherry and green peppercorns. On the palate I got a bowl of dark fruit, good tannin structure and balance.

And the dish, on its own, was pure genius. I even pulled Chef Larry over for a photo with the dish and told him so. It was my first experience with rabbit, and the flavors reminded me of a decadent pate or foie gras. The creamy polenta reduced the meat characteristics, but in a way that only increased my pleasure. The stew, I could only imagine, had been stewing quite awhile to create such lovely flavors. Love to have that recipe! Halfway through the dish I forced myself to stop eating – only because I wanted to bring the dish home for my husband that had to work that night.

Fourth Course

Triple Chocolate Mousse, Caramelized Walnuts, Black Pepper Ice Cream Sauce paired with 2012 Batasiolo Moscato d’Asti. The wine had aromas and flavors of heavy cream, lime, cling peaches, poached pear, apple and honey.

I liked the pairing of the candied pecans against the crisp apple in the wine. The Mousse reminded me of the triple-colored Neapolitan ice cream my mom used to buy, except about 20 notches better and in chocolate! The black pepper sauce was elegant against the chocolate as well.

All I can say is I want more…so will be following Chef Larry Monaco wherever he goes next!

Story in photos here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10205252388416677.1073741906.1455706632&type=1&l=b652781b98

About Chef Larry Monaco

From the website, “Using only the freshest ingredients, often locally and organically grown, Chef Larry Monaco creates customized menus and meals for couples, families, private parties, business dinners and special events for up to 50 people. Larry brings the ease, elegance, and delicious dining experience of being in a fine restaurant right into his clients’ homes.”

And from Chef Larry, “I am a chef and caterer based in Southern California. I indulge affairs ranging from cozy sit-down dinner parties to cocktail and fancy hors d’oeuvres feasts, to weddings and big soirees. In addition to planning the menu and cooking for your event, I will handle all of your worries from rentals to staffing, etc. you name it. I will take care of everything for you so you can just sit back, relax and enjoy your party. Please contact me if you’re interested in making your next event amazing and delicious!”

Chef Larry Monaco Website: http://www.cheflarrymonaco.com

Telephone: 323-424-4370

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chef-Larry-Monaco/110707482340987?fref=ts

Email: Larrry@ChefLarryMonaco.com

Frankie’s on Melrose: 7228 Melrose Avenue, Hollywood, CA 90038

Telephone: 323.937.2801.

Website: http://www.frankiesonmelrose.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/FrankiesMelrose

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Vintage Eve Circa 3/15: Several Firsts at Celestino Ristorante & Bar

May 8, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Where does one begin after their first dining experiences at Celestino Ristorante and Bar? The seasonal mushroom menu that included my first experience tasting truffles? Meeting Partner and Executive Chef Calogero Drago? Tasting “only three percent of the menu” but possibly the best as recommended by our server? Pairing Italian Cabernet Sauvignon and Italian Syrah with a meal that began with Sicilian rice croquet and ended with Panna Cotta vanilla custard and strawberries…wait, that dessert was served with a small glass of chilled Italian Moscato dessert wine. Egads, lets just get started!

The Dishes and Wine Pairing

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Photo from Celestino Facebook page.

As is our custom in a restaurant that is new to us, we asked our server for advice on their best dishes and wines (in this case he offered them to us by the glass) for each. We began with an item not on the menu: Sicilian Rice Croquet paired with a 2011 Vitiano Cabernet Sauvignon. Our waiter said not to “judge at first page, like a book” and see how the wine worked with the food (as we all know Italian wines are made for food).

The wine was not as big and bold as a domestic Cabernet and paired with the soft, warm and inviting creamiest of provolone cheese in the croquet – it subtly complemented it. My husband Eddie said the wine opened up more with the oil and fat in the dish, I found it to be a pleasant palate cleanser.

Then we made a selection from the Seasonal Mushroom and Truffle Menu: Veal Carpaccio with Shave Fresh Truffle and Pecorino Cheese, paired with the same Vitiano Cabernet. Neither of us had had Veal Carpaccio or Truffle before. This was a treat! I picked up the aromas of the dish from at least a foot away, though no one item overpowered the other in flavor once I dived in – except the capers of course! Having no point of reference on what truffle tastes like (and no, for my food 101ers, it’s not chocolate) this root, this mushroom, had the strength of flavor of the finest cured meat, and against the firm cheese and delicate veal it was simply a wonderful discovery.

Next we moved over to main dishes, that we had split so we could try each other’s dishes. We ordered the Ossobuco all Milanese with Saffron Risotto and Risotto with Fresh Porcini Mushroom (our waiter exchanged the Risotto with Homemade Wide Pappardelle noodle so we didn’t have too much Risotto) both paired with a 2012 Adesso, made from the Nero d’avolo grape our waiter said was “an ancestor” to the Syrah grape.

Trying the wine on its own I noted great spice and dark fruit, yet very balanced with low acid and good tannin structure.

(This is where I must take a breath. When you look over the photo album on Facebook, you will see a shot of tricolored drying pasta. The Pappardelle noodle was cooked perfectly al dente, I had to wonder how they could do this. Eddie figured it’s because the noodles don’t need to be rehydrated, and cooks faster. But still, 90 seconds or 100 seconds, they have it down to a science.)

Now, back to noodle nirvana. Starting with the Pappardelle I thought it was comfort food at its finest: creamy, milky, buttery and meaty too, courtesy the flavorful mushrooms. Yet we were told that the only liquid in the sauce was white wine. There was NO cream in the dish. What made it taste like this? Our waiter came to our aid again and said that when made with fresh Porcini mushrooms it’s the mushrooms alone that makes the dish creamy.

Now, if you’re keeping up we have one more – and incredible – main dish and then dessert. Try to hold on because here comes Ossobuco alla Milanese with Saffron Risotto paired with 2003 Cersus 100% Sangiovese. Our waiter had asked if we wanted a domestic wine or a big Italian, we chose the big Italian because we had enjoyed the others so much before this. On its own I got aromas of dirt, blackberry, cigar…and dare I say mushroom? The taste was all blue and black fruit, balanced pepper, firm tannins and a staggeringly long finish.

Now, onto the tenderest of veal framed by an equally tender risotto. Both were creamy, and both gave into the wine cutting right through them, making you want to dive back into the dish over and over again even if…you are getting a tad full.

So here it is, dessert: Panna Cotta Vanilla Custard Over Strawberries paired with a chilled Italian Moscato dessert wine. Our waiter said there was a great selection of desserts, but this one, the Panna Cotta, would not be found anywhere else. Reminded me of a vanilla bean in fresh whipped cream though denser, custard though softer, a crème Brûlée without the hard shell. The flavor of the vanilla and strawberries against the orange in the Moscato was something to relish and linger over. And that we did.

The Atmosphere

We were early diners so we could select a booth or table, and we chose a spot close to the kitchen to watch things. At one point we were quietly serenaded in Italian as workers went about their business. Nice.

I took a tour around and was pleased to fine more than one dining room and a beautiful outdoor patio complete with an arbor, lights and a young boy that wanted to be in my photos.

At one point our waiter announced, “The Capitan, Senior Drago is here” and we watched as Partner and Executive Chef Calogero Drago went from table to table to greet his guests, making the evening that much more special for all. And yes, we got another photo.

In Conclusion

We want to try more Italian Cabernets, we want to try the other 97% of the menu, and we want to go back for my birthday.

The Details

Celestino Ristorante & Bar – 141 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, CA 91101 – 626.795.4006 –

Website: http://celestinopasadena.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CelestinoPasadena

Twitter: https://twitter.com/CelestinoOnLake

Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/CelestinoOnLake

Vintage Eve Circa 8/2014: Tasting the Latest Beekeeper

January 16, 2018 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Apparently when you do good deeds in the wine world, you are sometimes rewarded. Such was the case when http://www.winela.com/ founder Ian Blackburn found out (because I told him) that I highlighted his fabulous calendar of classes in my weekly Dear Wine Friend newsletter.

He asked for my address. Then he sent me his latest buzz-worthy wine, the 2012 Beekeeper Cellars Zinfandel. The wine, yet to be publicly released, sat in my cellar for about a month and finally, I had the perfect occasion for it.

My daughter Samantha had just passed her first class, a math class no less, at CSUN. We would celebrate by taking her and her boyfriend out to dinner to her favorite steak restaurant, Backwood’s Inn. And we would celebrate with a Beekeeper, our own wine glasses and a corkage fee under $10.

My Tasting Notes

(Though Ian provided his own notes, I didn’t cheat and look at them before tasting his wine. That’s just a game I play with myself to see if my palate picks up the same flavors. Scroll down to see Ian’s tasting notes.)

Aroma: Having pulled the bottle from my temperature-controlled cellar just an hour before, I could really tell how much the cold could close down a wine’s aromas. Waiting about ten minutes while swirling and warming the glass with my hands, I noted juicy blue to black fruit, grilled mushrooms, chocolate truffles and toasted oak.

Flavor: The blackest of ripe blackberries, cracked pepper, dark chocolate, the hint of a cigar and tannins that rounded it all every-so-nicely in my glass. (I had no idea of the wine’s 15.2% alcohol content until someone read if off the bottle, there was no excessive “heat” in this wine.)

Conclusion: After ten more minutes, and throughout my entire meal (grilled BBQ salmon), I noted how the tannins slowly softened while keeping the wine’s fruit structure firm and resilient. Definitely want to try the older vintages, as well as next year’s release. Well done Ian. 95 Eve Points.

Notes From Founder Ian Blackburn

Beekeeper Cellars
Zinfandel, Black Sears Vineyard “Old Vines” Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2012 (Nicknamed ‘Black Bee’)

Grape: 99% Zinfandel 1% Petite Sirah

Vineyard: Dry Farmed, Old Vines – Organic and Biodynamic Practices

Appellation: Howell Mountain, Napa Valley

Vintage: 2012 Bottled Dec 17th, 2013

Alcohol: 15.2% RS 2 g/1000ml PH 3.79 TA 5.66

Oak: 100% French – 30% New for 15 months.

Winemakers: Clay Mauritson, Emma Kudritzki and Ian Blackburn

Production: 4200 Bottles (350 Cases)
ABOUT: Beekeeper Cellars
Zinfandel, Black Sears Vineyard “Old Vines” Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2012

The historic “Black Sears Vineyard” returned my call in Summer of 2012, I was looking for some pedigree hillside fruit to grow the Beekeeper brand and to give our clients another peak at our quality approach. I called many of the famous vineyards, but reputable hillside zinfandel is highly spoken for and getting really hard to find. Luckily, Black Sears returned the call, our timing was very good.

Black Sears Vineyard is located at 2400 feet on the top of Howell Mountain, in the Napa Valley. The Vines, planted in the 1970’s are dry farmed (no irrigation) and also farmed organic, with bio-dynamic practices. Planted on St. George rootstock, the bud wood came from the Hayne Vineyard in St. Helena (One of Zinfandel’s “Heritage Clones”). The fruit set was huge in 2012, but optimal conditions provided even ripening and 2012 will be considered a very good vintage, especially for Black Sears.

The resulting Beekeeper Cellars wine is 99% Zinfandel and 1% Petite Sirah. It spent 15 months in French Oak, 30% was new. It was un-fined but gently filtered at bottling.

Blackburn’s Tasting Notes

A dark ruby colored wine from rim to rim with a nose of spicy cracked black pepper, cold steel, graphite, dried herbs, violets, wild berry and dark plum, and hints of salted caramel. The mouth is rich, endowed and pronounced; with broad structure, ample tannin, and power, yet balanced within its large frame.

Beekeeper Cellars focuses on crafting beautiful Zinfandel, made from pedigree hillside vineyards with distinctive character and quality wine-making techniques.

Napa 2017 After The Fires: Clos Pegase

December 22, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Last time we visited the grand Clos Pegase was…before I started writing about wine! Over ten years! Eddie, the husband, looked for photos…and lo and behold we were there February 6, 2004! Definitely overdue for a visit! And gotta hump that thumb again!

Visiting Clos Pegase – Over A Decade Later

This “need for a re-visit” has happened to us before as there is so much to taste in Napa, wineries change hands, winemakers move and then there is a buzz about a new place that takes precedent sometimes. We were happy for the opportunity for a re-visit.

Arriving a wee bit early we took a look at the grounds. Things had been moved, new sculptures in and older ones, like the infamous thumb, had been removed. No worries, we got to taste in a brand new tasting room that was designed with both standing tasting bars, seated sections and outdoor tastings. New owners means new vineyards and one, now the namesake “Mitsuko’s Vineyard” in the Carneros/Napa appellation, joins Tenma Vineyard and Applebone Vineyard both in the Calistoga/Napa Valley appellation.

We chose a grouping of cozy of couches and settled in for our tasting with winery rep Diane Rubenfeld. Beginning with a 2016 Mitsuko’s Vineyard 100% Sauvignon Blanc fermented and aged in tanks and neutral oak I noted a very bright style reminiscent of a New Zealand Sauv Blanc with stone fruit, apricot, pear and a medium acid.

Next came the 2014 Hommage Chardonnay Mitsuko’s Vineyard that had been aged for 28 months in 78% French oak. Notes of oak, toast, green-skinned fruit like green apples came to mind, butter…with a long satisfying finish.

The 2014 Pegaso Red Blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot came from a single vineyard, 18 months oak aged. This was their first year they didn’t use Syrah in the Pegaso blend. I got notes of chocolate, spice, black fruit, drying tannins but a lovely balance as the blend may have made it not as spicy as I would have expected.

Now we had the 2013 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in our glasses. A round bouquet of spice, fruit, dust and rose petals was followed by a juicy and tart taste, a bit of cigar, wet earth and incense.

A 2015 Mitsuko’s Vineyard Merlot was next up. With 90% Merlot and the remaining percentages included both Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Fresh ripe red berries, mushroom and some dust floated up in the nose, followed by flavors of bright red fruit, green peppercorn – it was another nicely balanced wine.

Our final wine was the 2014 Syrah Mitsuko’s Vineyard with 6% Petite Sirah. Yummy raspberry fruit, brambles, stems, earth and drying tannins, followed a nose of blue fruit, pepper, raspberry and pepper. Nice for only being three years old.

#NapaFire

A 10-day “cloud” hung over the valley floor during the fires. The cellar workers stayed until the evacuation orders came through. They returned when the order was lifted and resumed pump overs. Their grapes are still in the process of being smoke tested, however, 90% of their fruit had already been picked. No one in the Clos Pegase winery family lost a home.

About Clos Pegase

Eve and Eddie Feb 2004 with the thumb!

RoBIN AKHURST’S ROAD TO THE NAPA VALLEY took him around the globe, through eight consecutive and exhausting harvests, picking up an impressive list of mentors along the way. In 2016, he took over winemaking for Clos Pegase, one of the Napa Valley’s landmark wineries….read more.

http://www.clospegase.com/

1060 Dunaweal Ln, Calistoga, CA 94515. (707) 942-4981.

Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Long Beach Grand Cru. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com

Napa 2017 After The Fires: Hourglass

December 15, 2017 by evebushman 2 Comments

Not sure how many locals had mentioned Hourglass Winery to me but enough that my whistle was sufficiently whetted. I sought out an appointment and, lucky for me, gained admission.

Driving up a small road off the Silverado Trail in Calistoga a small brass sign depicting an hourglass led me in the right direction. At the end of the drive we parked near a small private home and walked up to the winery. Its size and scope immediately impressed me, and I would soon attribute the same characteristics to CEO and Founder Jeff Smith: I would be blown away not only by an incredible tasting but also a vast winemaking knowledge I had yet to completely understand.

My hand whizzed over my notepad as fast as it could to keep up with Jeff’s family story, his own story and, when prompted by his mother that wanted him to prove himself worthy of turning her Calistoga property into a winery – his depth of understanding what it takes to make killer wine. Note to my winemaking friends: I have my notepad and you can read it all for yourself if you ask me nicely. Some of the notes I have shared here are designated as For The Wine Geek.

The cave we had our meeting in was created when extra dynamite was left over after making the barrel caves. Smith said something along the lines of, “We have extra dynamite, let’s blow something up!” And this cave was unlike any other I have seen, with fur covered chairs and inventive lighting…I kept waiting for the bear to show up. Which, now that I knew Smith’s sense of humor, he had a bear story too.

Jeff’s family moved to the area in 1964. St. Helena was a sleepy town until the Judgment of Paris. His father built the Wine Country Inn about a decade later. They planted fruit trees over the many acres of rocky land that they owned. It was at a cocktail party with Dan Duckhorn that his father was told he shouldn’t waste his time with fruit trees, he should plant Zinfandel vines – and he did. When Jeff’s father passed away in 1990 Jeff took over the vineyard. His mother was ready to sell by then, but that’s when Jeff convinced her to pull out the Zin to make room for Cab.

Jeff was only 26 at the time. He was fiddling around in college and in a band, but he was watching his neighbors. He decided to get some help from a pal at UC Davis, got them to look at his soil, and learned he did indeed have a great site.

Now here is where my notes veer into the geography of the land (streams, soil, gravel, minerals that combined would represent the “tip of narrow crossing” of an hourglass), the varietals grown (all five Bordeaux varietals), the mentors that would guide Jeff (Bob Foley helped with the early vintages, then came Tony Biagi who is the current winemaker) and his thirst (forgive the pun) in what seemed to me as a quest to learn it all.

For The Wine Geek: I asked about the use of the “cult” name and how it might relate to Hourglass. Jeff said there are only eight cult wineries, no more, and they are credited with defining a paradigm shift in winemaking and the high ph movement. And the movement “grew” out of the cult wine phenomenon.

Current Wines Available For Tasting (Note Blue Line and Hourglass are both separate estate wines, not a first and secondary label.)

2015 HG3 Hourglass Red Blend was what Jeff referred to as a “Bordelaise Stew”, it was different each year, with Merlot, Cabernet and one other, to-be-decided black fruit. The aromas alone that reminded me of incense Jeff said was sandalwood.

2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc was destined to be my favorite. With aromas of wet gravel, a juicy palate and cigar – Jeff said this wine would only develop over time.

For the 2015 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon this time I got aromas of next day Bolognese spaghetti sauce, only because the second day is so much better than the first. The spice, blue to black fruit and killer aromatics brought up…you guessed it…a lesson in how those aromatics develop. For The Wine Geek: Somehow they can stop/suspend the polymerization during fermentation to shorten the tannins. “Unresolved tannins” is like that tea bag that steeped for too long. A “wet chemist”, that would be hired from veraison onward, would be the person to manage (and explain better than I can) this suspension process.

2014 Hourglass Estate Cabernet Sauvignon tasted like it was ten years older than a 2014, very mature I thought. Jeff said that “maturity was a function of the vineyard.” The wine would develop more of that “cigar box” in time and it’s the richness, medium acidity and minerality that makes you want to go in for that next sip. For The Wine Geek: Hourglass has never had an acid adjustment. The saving grace of Blueline is the minerality. Tannins bond with “salivary protein.”

A 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Hourglass Estate was the wine we finished with, and while whites are usually served first when we had this last I thought: what a great palate refresher. Made with 20% new oak, neutral oak and stainless steel I got a nice lime on the nose with balanced acidity and fresh fruit that lingered on the palate. I only wished I could’ve started tasting through these wines all over again. For The Wine Geek: The length of this wine came from the fruit. There was no “cat piss” odor as they have a warm climate that equals “less piss.”

Lastly, For The Wine Geek: As we were just about to say our goodbyes we got into a discussion about what influences people about wine. Jeff said that winemaker Clark Smith (Clark was in Santa Clarita once for a holiday tasting at Valencia Wine Co. where I met him the first time, and a second time when we judged together for the Long Beach Grand Cru.) did a “chemistry class” where different music was played while each person judged a wine. After more than three tries in rating the same wines in the same order – but with different music – Jeff got different results. He remembered what he had rated the wine before, and the wines were in the same order, but his results were still different! Beach Boys, jazz, hard rock, classic, classic with a modal change…each presented a new result. Jeff said his notes would “flip again and again” and possibly due to “input creating a change in the chemical pathways…” Totally going to try this myself!

#NapaFire

No one in the Hourglass family lost their home, however two of their consultants did. The winemaking crew stayed on, lost power at one point and a neighbor helped them out. When their neighbor lost their power next, Hourglass was able to help them. The fire ran 100 feet per second according to CDF. They did lose some fruit from Sonoma that would’ve been used for HG3.

Tasting at Hourglass

Our goal with winery visits is to immerse the enthusiast in the art of what we do. We seek to create an intimate experience that will deliver a greater depth of knowledge of winemaking in general and a look behind the scenes at how we apply that craft. When you visit with us, plan on an hour to an hour and a half immersion that will take you into the core of the winery to include a tasting of aging wines at rest in barrel and current bottled releases. The experience will be guided by either Proprietor Jeff Smith, Operations Manager Marybeth Egner, or Director of Private Clients Ian Fenwick, all of whom have deep knowledge of Napa Valley and are well versed in every aspect of our winemaking…read more.

https://www.hourglasswines.com/

Vintage Eve Circa 3/14: Minding My Mira

October 3, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

It’s been awhile since I‘ve done one of my one-bottle posts. This time I was motivated as rating this wine tied into the new Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting venture I’ve created with my business partner Michael Perlis, and another winery, a new winery we happened to be working with.

This is when you ask, “Why? What’s the tie in between a wine review for one winery and another winery’s launch?”

Building Your Branding

At the same time that I received an email from Mira Winery (www.MiraNapa.com) offering me a bottle of their Napa Cab before its release so I could do a review – I was working with a winery client on getting their website and social networks all up to speed before their first wine is launched.

I forwarded Mira’s email to my winery client. I explained that here was a winery that wanted some reviews of their wine on the internet before the wine was released to the public. Why? Because when you Google the winery you will find reviews other places than the winery’s own website. And, the public might find the reviews – especially if the writer also social networks them like we do – and so the branding is magically being built.

Lets see if the plan worked.

Tasting Notes

Appearance

On outward observation alone the 2010 Napa Valley Mira Cabernet Sauvignon had one of those deep punts at the bottom that I like, a classy no-nonsense label and 14.5% alcohol. Once poured I noted that the color was dark purple and very opaque.

Aroma

From an inch away I could smell the robust plums, then I went in a little closer and got blackberry, Fig Newtons, black licorice, cracked black pepper, black olives, smoke and suede.

Flavor

Plum, black cherry, blackberry jam, dark chocolate, espresso beans, slightly minty and all with a nice tannin structure holding it together.

Conclusion, AKA Score

Very long finish. Thought this will go will with roasted meat, steaks, pasta, grilled sausages. It might be tough to have without food for people that prefer more berry fruit. I happen to like tannic wines, with or without food. If I had to score this wine, and I’m against scoring but most peeps just want a number, I’d give it a 90.

From the Winery

We at Mira Winery are excited to soon be releasing our 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon to the public! However, before we do we want to invite you to sample this luscious blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Syrah to see what you think and hopefully share your opinion! Of course it’s 100% Napa Valley.

As with our entire portfolio of wines, our 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon is crafted by our Winemaker Gustavo Gonzalez who was the head red winemaker for Robert Mondavi before leaving to lead Mira. Over a 20 year career he has worked with some of the most acclaimed winemakers around the world and is one of the few to produce 100 point rated wine. You can learn more about Mira at www.miranapa.com.

Perlis Picks: From Abe Schoener — Wine Study in the Loire: Lessons in the Foundation of Winemaking – Part Two

September 16, 2017 by Michael Perlis 3 Comments

A Continuation of Abe Schoener’s [The Scholium Project]…

A NEW LESSON IN THE MORAL NATURE OF WINEMAKING: LES JARDINS DES ESMÉRALDINS

Questions of Technique: the Beginning of Thinking

The first bottle is a white wine from 2004. He makes only two wines, one red, one white. The white, 100% Chenin. Six years in barrel before bottling, then, in the case of this wine, four more years before release. Robert asks about skin contact (Xavier speaks no English, I translate as best as I can). No skin contact. We discuss the press regime and fermentation for 30 minutes. In great detail. He uses an old champagne press with a capacity of about 500 liters– very small, and exactly the same capacity as our presses at Tenbrink. A typical day during the white harvest has the following rhythm: wake up, harvest as much fruit as the press will hold, bring it back to the winery (“where do you do the work?” I ask, pointing to the overgrown yard and the complete absence of what we would call a crush pad. “Where you can,” he says with a smile). Load the press. Begin pressing. Go past midnight. Adjust the pressure. Assess. If all seems good, go home. Sleep, wake, return to the winery, release the pressure, break up the grapes (“Whole cluster?” “Yes. We do not crush or destem anything”), re-apply pressure, go harvest fruit, return, unload the press, begin the cycle again. They work with about 3 vineyards typically but make 3-4 passes in each vineyard. There could be a dozen days of pressing; sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less. They break up the cake of compressed grapes only once and gently. He wants as little friction and trituration as possible. There is no breaking up of the fruit on the way into the press or in the press as we do (“makes the fermentation too fast,” he explains. “Oh yes, how fast? What counts as a rapid fermentation for you?” “Three weeks.” Ah, that is rapid. What is the optimal time for you?” “A few months . . . . A year.” “Ah yes, we call those ‘French Fermentations.'” He smiles.)

They do not protect the juice at any stage from oxygen; they do not settle. They do not make press fractions. In general, they consolidate fermentations; there is no multiplication of differences. At the beginning of his winemaking, he used a little SO2. Now, no sulfur is used at any point.

Xavier has the aim of extracting what he calls “matière” from the grapes. He means something like a complex of tannins, phenolics, and aromatic compounds. More on this below. But he does not want sensible tannins, or roughness, or what he calls “rusticité.”

The wine ferments and ages in neutral oak vessels of various sizes. Originally all 220 liter, now many 400 liter. There is no stirring ever, no racking until bottling, topping only every few months if at all. I get the impression that he tops from other lots of younger wines, but I am not sure. Nothing is ever inoculated; the winery in which he has made most of his wine was originally created in the 11th century. As far as he knows, commercial yeasts have never been used in it; nonetheless he has no illusions about the source of his microbiology. He does everything he can to cultivate the microbiology of his vineyard, and to translate as much of it as possible to the winery– but, if I understand him correctly, he thinks that this comes in in the composition of the grapes, not as microbial passengers on the skin of the grapes. There is no hot water or soap or other disinfectants in the winery. Originally, he burnt sulfur mined from the earth in the barrels but he does this no longer.

This discussion, as I said, took about 30 minutes and was easy and casual. It was much more a discussion than an interview. Xavier listened carefully to my account of how we work at Scholium and I took pains to draw precise distinctions between his methods and ours. None of this meant anything to him. He clearly has his own paths (“The wine must reflect the ‘mentalité’ — the thinking– of the winemaker”; but more on this too) and, as far I could tell, was only interested to hear how we worked because he likes other human beings, not because he cares how anyone else makes wine. When I quoted him above on the “thinking of the winemaker,” he clearly did not mean something like it was his job to impose his thinking on the grapes– rather, there is no way for the thinking– the whole thinking, metaphysical, physical, religious, sentimental– no way for this NOT to affect the wine– so better to be clear and conscious about it.

To be continued…

Vintage Eve Circa 2/14: Eve Reviews The New California Wine by Jon Bonné

September 5, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

Nearly 300 pages of continuing education, that’s how I saw this book. I took diligent notes through to page 180 (below) of key items that I thought would be of interest to wine 101ers.

Jon Bonne, photo – KCET

The second section of the book, however, was very subjective as Bonné covered many popular California grape varietals, and growing areas, and then made suggestions – The Three-Bottle Tour being the narrowest view and his choice of Top Producers getting a paragraph or two. How can you narrow down the best Cabernets of California to three bottles or 8 wineries? Even with the addition of a “More Notable Wines” section, we only got eleven more Cabs.

So, are you going to stick to 19 wineries for your California Cabs? I think not. This was the theme throughout and all I could imagine were the thousands of hard working winemakers shaking their heads in disgust…and wondering how they will ever get their wine tasted. I, dear reader, plan to do my part and keep tasting. Some of Bonné’s suggestions, some of yours, and some that I happen to come across on my own. I urge you to do the same.

Notes from Bonné for Wine 101ers

Bigger isn’t always better. (I’ve had many high-octane California wines and am happy to see a return to less alcohol with good flavor and tannin structure.)

Terroir does matter. You can’t just plant any grape anywhere. California winemakers are learning by doing.

In the section “Searching for The New California” Bonné gives a respectful nod to winemakers off the beaten path of wineries we normally visit.

Readers will get a wealth of wine history – from prohibition, the Judgment of Paris, growers morphing into winemakers, phylloxera, current winemaking practices, through to Bonné’s list of current cult winemakers.

Find new ways to discover wine with destinations like the Lompoc Wine Ghetto for the Garagiste/Garage winemaker.

Wineries that are making more than one label so that people can enjoy both “table” wines as well as special occasion wines.

Comprehensive sections on each grape growing region, and what’s special about each, makes you feel as if you have seen the terrain yourself.

Color photographs throughout, though having them all captioned may have been more helpful.

Praise for THE NEW CALIFORNIA WINE:

“The New California Wine delivers some of the most insightful wine writing you’ll read anywhere. This is the real skinny on cutting-edge California wine from somebody who’s on the ground, knows his stuff, and could care less about offending the Establishment.”

– Matt Kramer, author and columnist for Wine Spectator

“An impeccably timed, beautifully written book chronicling a profound generational shift in California winemaking. Required reading for any sommelier, retailer, or consumer who’s left California behind for other pastures – it’s time to come home!”

– David Lynch, owner/wine director of St. Vincent Tavern and Wine Merchant and author of Vino Italiano

The New California Wine is the untold story of the California wine industry: the young, innovative producers who are rewriting the rules of contemporary winemaking; their quest to express the uniqueness of California terroir; and the continuing battle to move the state away from the overly-technocratic practices of its recent past. In this comprehensive guide to the new generation of must-know wines and vintners, Jon Bonné writes from the front lines of the California wine revolution, where he has access to the stories, philosophies, and techniques of top producers.

Well-Connected Author: As the wine editor for the San Francisco Chronicle, Jon has won a regional following in the Bay Area as well as national recognition as one of the most important voices in the wine community. He is very active on Twitter and has nearly 14,000 followers.

Winning Book Formula: The New California Wine will do for California what Vino Italiano did for Italian wines: rid the industry of its overly-commercialized image and introduce the public to the avant-garde winemakers who are making compelling–and better–wines. The New California Wine includes evocative, full-color photography, giving it the same visual appeal as the top-selling Secrets of the Sommeliers.

Featuring discussions on more than 600 wines and detailed maps of growing regions and vineyards, The New California Wine is a necessary addition to any wine lover’s bookshelf. Part narrative, part authoritative purchasing reference, it is the story of the winemakers who have changed the very face of California’s wine industry.

Jon Bonné is the wine editor of the San Francisco Chronicle and covers wine and spirits throughout California and around the world. Previously Bonné was lifestyle editor and wine columnist for MSNBC.com and wine columnist for Seattle magazine, and has written for such publications as Decanter, Saveur, and Food & Wine. His work in food and wine journalism has earned awards from the James Beard Foundation and the Association of Food Journalists. Follow him on Twitter @jbonne.

The New California Wine, Jon Bonné. $35.00 paper over board • 304 pages • 50 full-color photographs • 7 7/16 x 9 inches. ISBN 978-1-60774-300-2 • On-Sale Date: November 5, 2013

Perlis Picks – Stillman Wines

September 2, 2017 by Michael Perlis Leave a Comment

I don’t know about you, but most of the time it seems that vintage doesn’t matter with California wines. Yes, there are slight variations but the overall high quality grapes and good winemaking tend to result in great wine every year.

The deal goes down with Stillman in the La Quinta parking lot — photo by Mike Ortiz

2011 has seemed to be an exception. As I work my way through the wines we have from this vintage, I’ve found fewer wines than usual to get excited about. Not that they aren’t there, but it was the kind of year that separated the good from the great and resulted in my canceling some club memberships that I was borderline about.

That being said, there are still some wonderful wines from 2011. The 2011 J Dusi Zinfandel, which I originally had concerns over, has turned into a wonderful wine. And the wines from faves like Bedrock, Carlisle and Turley definitely met my expectations.

But the wine of the vintage for me was the 2011 Colossus Syrah from Stillman Wines. Fortunately, I happened to buy several bottles of this wine, and it continues to amaze everyone I share it with. No one believes the 16.5% alcohol on the bottle or that it comes from Paso Robles. The wine is just gulp-ably delicious. Sadly, I think we finally finished our last bottle of this wine.

I’m not sure what I can write about Stillman Brown [or Swilly Idle as he is sometimes known]. He makes great wines, most of them for other people. Those relationships, while not huge secrets, are also really not widely publicized and I will respect that.

So, when Karen and I met with Stillman at [REDACTED] winery and tasted through some barrel samples, I’ll tell you they were excellent but that’s about all I can tell you.

You’re in luck though. The wines Stillman makes for others he also makes for his own label [and others too], with a stylistic tweak here and there. The best way to get your hands [lips] on those is to sign up for his email list. You’ll get some entertaining emails and an opportunity to buy some delicious well-priced wines.

Here are some excerpts from some of his emails…

“Friends, family, fans and stalkers, this ZEPPELIN ATTACK WARNING is not from the Royal Flying Corps – which rather sounds like Elvis after he popped too many pills – but is instead notification of the imminent launch of one of the most unique, intense, and succulent wines we’ve made. (Succulent is not usually applied to the dominant variety here, but Tannat’s reputation for biting tannins is largely a product of the idiosyncratic fermentation regimes of its homeland in southwestern France and its often slavish mimicry in the New World, as well the similarity of the words themselves.)…”

Here’s another…

“Behold the multitasking mystery here: the title of the painting [referencing the wine label with the title The Effect Of Wine On The Human Spirit] is also the name of the wine, and the multivintage declaration doubles as the alcohol approximation. As complex as an intoxicated argument between Bertrand Russell and Ludwig Wittgenstein: lightly roasted ripe Nantucket cranberry and Cohabitation Canyon (Fruita, UT) cherry and mulberry, and spicy pink peppercorn and spearmint…”

And just one more…

“Ladies, gentlemen and fruit flies, I know that releasing a white wine in the icy dead of winter may seem odd, but it is not: by the time warmer weather comes there might not be any left to ship; it’s popular around here. The 2016 Red Zeppelin Vermentino sports an awesome new label, but there are no other changes excepting the addition of 9% Viognier from the same block; it’s much more like the ’15 than the ’14. The acidity is relatively high, the alcohol a mere 13.4%, but it’s not a ‘light’ wine: it has all the characteristic spice of the variety, but far more flavor and mouthfeel due to the low yields at the Hill of Graceland.”

Some wines are the Stillman Wines label, others are Zeppelin Wines. Regardless, Stillman’s wines are worth seeking out.

Send him an email at stillmanb@aol.com.

Stillman is much more than a pretty face in a gold suit and perfect pedicure. He’s been my go-to for technical questions, parking lot purchases and visits to wineries-under-construction. I want to find out more of his bio but he’s already told me if I reveal too much he’d have to ki….

Michael Perlis has been pursuing his passion for wine for more than 25 years. He has had the good fortune of having numerous mentors to show him the way, as well as a wonderful wife who encourages him and shares his interest. After a couple of decades of learning about wine, attending events, visiting wineries and vineyards, and tasting as much wine as he possibly could, he had the amazing luck to meet Eve Bushman. Now, as Contributing Editor for Eve’s Wine 101, he does his best to bring as much information as possible about wine to Eve’s Wine 101 faithful readers. Michael is also Vice President of Eve Bushman Consulting (fka Eve’s Wine 101 Consulting) http://evebushmanconsulting.com/ and President of MCP Financial. Michael can be contacted at michaelthezinfan@aol.com or michael@evebushmanconsulting.com.

Vintage Eve Circa 1/14: High Desert Cellars Tasting with Chavez Cellars

August 22, 2017 by evebushman Leave a Comment

After I tasted wines from the California High Desert AVA with Wine of the Month Club’s president Paul Kalemkiarian via YouTube, I got an email a few weeks later from another winery in the high desert, High Desert Cellars Chavez Vineyards. They wanted me to taste their award winning wines (see “From the Winery” below) and write up some tasting notes for you, our Dear Wine Friends.

Not one to turn down a bottle, err, I mean an opportunity to try a new bottle of wine, I readily agreed to the tasting. (If you want to try them they have a tasting room open to the public Thursday through Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 6 p.m.: 3045 90^th Street West, Rosamond, CA, 93560, 661-256-6203.)

Tasting

2010 Tempranillo, 13.9% alcohol

Stewed mushroom, green bell peppers cooking in fajita seasonings, black pepper, leather, blackberry; lovely dark peppery fruit, juicy blackberry, black pepper again, good tannins. Pair with grilled steak or any meat-based dish in my humble opinion. Drink now.

2010 Zinfandel, 13.9% alcohol

Floral rose petals, plum, dark chocolate, leaves, wet earth and leather; red fruit, tannic, black pepper, smoke, bark. I could steadily sip this wine alone – and I did – or enjoy with food. Drink now or up to 5 years of down time. I liked the alcohol content and didn’t get any of the heat accompanied with high alcohol percentages. With that said, for a Zinfandel, it was fairly easy drinking with only a mild amount of pepper and spice.

2010 California Syrah, 15.6% alcohol

The color of seedless blackberry jam; dark fruit, plum, plump raisins, tobacco, milk chocolate, leather, mint; dried black fruits, juicy yet palate-drying on the finish, smoke, and firm tannins. Very pleasant, may be strong without food for some but not for me. Drink now or up to 5 to 7 years of down time. (Note from my Contributing Editor Michael Perlis: High Desert Cellars’ Syrah is from the same vineyard that was used for Golden Star’s.)

From the Winery

Three of our wines have won medals from the 2014 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition! Our 2010 Syrah won GOLD. Our 2010 Merlot won SILVER. And our Zinfandel won BRONZE. We are thrilled to receive this honor!

The 2014 SFCWC had a record number of 5,825 entries from over 1,500 wineries from 25 states in America – the largest competition of wines in America. The Public Tasting Event will be held at the Fort Mason Center in San Francisco on Saturday, February 15, beginning at 1:30PM, and we are making plans to attend and pour our wonderful wines.

Efren Chavez is the proud owner of High Desert Cellars – Chavez Vineyards and he has been in the grape growing business since 1978, starting in Sonoma County in the Russian River Appellation, Alexander Valley. In 1999 Efren started Chavez Vineyards on 20 acres located in east Palmdale, in the Antelope Valley of the California High Desert. Producing wine from grapes of uncompromised quality, including red varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Malbec, Barbera, Alicante Bouchet, and white varietals of Chardonnay, Semillon, Viognier, Muscato, as well as rose wines of Merlot and Syrah. The first bottles of wine under the Chavez Cellars label were bottled in 2009.

Efren’s ambition of opening a tasting room for his wines became reality in June 2011 – High Desert Cellars Winery and Tasting Room held its grand opening. The beautiful tasting room offers fines wines for tasting, as well as beer, soda, water, snacks and unique gifts. Our wines can also be enjoyed in the outdoor garden area, along with a picnic lunch if desired.