Perlis Picks: From Abe Schoener — Wine Study in the Loire: Lessons in the Foundation of Winemaking – Part Three

September 23, 2017 by Michael Perlis

A Continuation of Abe Schoener’s [The Scholium Project]…

A NEW LESSON IN THE MORAL NATURE OF WINEMAKING: LES JARDINS DES ESMÉRALDINS

The Wines: Transcendental and somehow Historical at once

Abe Schoener via YouTube

When we taste, he is very eager for our impressions, our reactions. He watches our faces, especially our eyes, carefully. He is clearly proud of how old the wines are: 2004– it was so fresh; I knew that it was not a 2016 from barrel, but perhaps a 2015? No, 2004; bottled in 2010. Totally fresh, punchy, dense but light on its feet at once.

Bottled in 2008. Equally fresh. Showing the beginning of what you could call bottle age. Then, he pulls out and pours a wine that is slightly golden by comparison– 1999. “The first wine that I ever made.” We cannot believe that he is sharing a bottle with us.

This wine too is absolutely fresh, vigorous, even electric. The wine is perhaps more viscous than the others, and more golden to the eye– but not tired or even maturing in the mouth. The wines are complete and developed– and in this sense, mature– but there is no sense that the first two wines have aged at all, and it is hard to place the bottles in time in any way. They are, in this respect transcendental, which is difficult for wine– but they have dates. 1999 was the first year that I made wine too; it is hard for such a wine not to seem historical in this respect. How can a winemaker’s first wine not be historical?

We taste a red wine from 2004 and another early white, from 2001, that finished primary fermentation in bottle (by surprise). Both wines were very good, even great in some way– but it was so hard to come back and down from the 1999, the wine of origin. He calls all of the wines: “Genèse”– Genesis. The winery is the Gardens of Emeralds; the wines are Genesis White and Genesis Red.

All of the wines have intensity– particularly in what you might call “minerality.” They are saline and have the body and density that comes from fruit– but they do not taste or smell of fruit. Nor do they smell of yeast, in spite of their long lees contact. Nor do they seem oxidized. Even the 1999, opened 15 days ago, was fresh and yellow– no more golden than many Chenins only a couple of years old.

You could say that the wines are rocky– but you must somehow also mean that they are graceful. You could point to nuts and nut skins, and high-acid, young champagne, but you would have to be careful not to simplify too much. It is also worth saying that the wines taste and smell reduced, but that this is not an overwhelming sensation; and that there is no trace of VA at all, or, at most, perhaps one senses some acetic in the mouth, but nothing else, and certainly nothing acetate-y. The wines do not have the markers of wines that stand out as “natural” and seem utterly classical in spite of their unconventional origins.

Lastly, the wines have no typicity for me. I cannot identify the whites as Chenin (though they are not so far from what Eben Sadie sometimes accomplishes by rather different means). I cannot place them as Loire wines. This does not bother Xavier at all. He is in fact proud of this. Even though he is a super careful farmer, he is not interested in revealing or somehow representing the vineyards. There is clearly an unbroken continuity for him between the vines and the wine, but he nonetheless does not feel that he respects this continuity by seeking typicity, or by making single vineyard wines. Neither holds any interest for him.

He suggests, with both pride and mischief in his eyes, that the wines would be hard to identify in a blind tasting. When I agree and tell him that the 1999 reminds me of old first growth Bordeaux, he is clearly pleased– not because he cares at all about old Bordeaux, but because my mind roamed.

To be continued…

Vintage Eve Circa 12/2013: Wine Enthusiast Magazine Best of the Year Issue Reviewed

August 1, 2017 by evebushman

I am a loyal Wine Spectator (WS) magazine reader, have been for over 20 years. With that said, I’ve leafed through Wine Enthusiast (WE) magazine many times. I had an opportunity to meet and interview West Coast Editor Steve Heimoff and often find myself in agreement with him on his tasting notes. As I thought our palates were sometimes in sync, when I got the press release below presenting the magazine’s 2013 Top 100 Wines, Top 50 Spirits and Top 25 Beers…I thought I better do more than leaf through the issue.

top row l-r: Tim McDonald, Richard Jennings, Eve, Steve Peck. bottom l-r: Eva and Fred Swan, Steve Heimoff, Gina DeGirolamo

Starting with the article, “The Top 10 Wines Stories of 2013”, penned by editor Adam Strum, I learned that both men and women enjoyed more white wine this year, more wine producers are using social media, wine growing regions like Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles and Santa Barbara are gaining more attention, as well as wineries producing organic wines.

Then I noticed some other key pages: WE Instagram favorites, suggestions for moving the palate from, say, a Rioja’s Tempranillo fruit to try a Mexican Nebbiolo, where to find great wine lists in the Caribbean, where to eat in Denmark and Bordeaux, several winter cocktail recipes and single malt scotch recommendations.

Lengthier articles included an explanation of the different methods in making a sparkling wine, followed by a few suggestions that were not the standard fare, and ranged in price from $14 to $150; a feature on Portuguese winemakers; cooking classes available in Napa; recipes paired with white wines and their monthly Buying Guide.

Then came their “Must-Have Wines” selected from 16,500 globally tasted wines. A picture of the wine label accompanied most wines featured on the list – and if you’re like me a photo does help you to remember what to buy lest you show up at a store with the entire magazine in tow. (The number one wine was a sparkling: Roederer Estate 2004 L’Ermitage Brut, Anderson Valley at $47 retail and received a 97-point rating.)

Then came their “Top 50 Spirits” which I really looked forward to seeing as this is not something I’ve seen normally covered in a wine magazine. It sounded like they had fun tasting, among other things, “an unusual barrel-aged gin, a field-to-flask whiskey and a citrusy Tequila fermented using wine yeasts…”

Broken down by individual spirit, using photos as well, this time the number one winner was the Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage 2002 Edition, USA, Heaven Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY, at $26 retail and receiving 97 points.

Then we have the Top 25 Beers to look over that was “culled from our monthly Beer Buying Guide.” This time, the same format again employed, and the number one beer was New Glarus Wild Sour Ale, American Wild Ale, New Glarus Brewing Company, WI, at $10/12 ounce four pack and receiving 98 points. More can be found at www.buyingguide.winemag.com

I thought the magazine would end there, but I was only halfway through. Next came the WE Wine Star Awards that honors “individuals and companies”… “notable for their energy and groundbreaking vision…” The 2013 Wine Person of the Year was named as Barbara Banke, the chairwoman of Jackson Family Wines, and awarded due to the remarkable growth of vineyard holdings she has overseen…and other stellar individuals responsible for the success of our wine landscape follows her. I look forward to reading more in this section and getting to know more about whom we will be watching in the years to come…

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Press Release:

WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINE UNVEILS ITS BEST OF YEAR ISSUE

RANKING THE TOP 2013 IN WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

The Ultimate Resource and Foremost Authority on Wine Lifestyle Announces its Annual Issue Featuring its Editorial Team’s Top Picks for the Year

Officially hitting newsstands this week, and sure to surpass expectations, the Wine Enthusiast Magazine Annual BEST OF YEAR Issue is finally here! Passionately committed to presenting the nation with its choice picks for the top wines, beers and spirits tasted this year, the Wine Enthusiast Global Tasting Panel and team of Editorial Experts have come up with a one of the most interesting and stellar lists to date, with the best-of-the best for every palate, style and price point imaginable.

This year’s list includes unique, first-rate picks that boast exceptional quality, drinkability, innovation and availability – aiming to represent the outstanding diversity in each category of wine, beer and spirits available in the market today. Conducting over 20,000 tasting’s over the course of the year and across all categories, the tasting panel and experts whittled the list down to include only the most interesting picks for this issue. Featuring the Top 100 Wines, Top 50 Spirits and Top 25 Beers that were tasted and reviewed throughout 2013, this list is the ultimate guide and resource for exceptional imbibing year-round.

“We are thrilled to present our record-breaking Best of Year Issue with one of the most interesting Top 100 Wines lists in our 25 years of publication,” states Editor & Publisher Adam Strum. “Not only does this list go above and beyond our ongoing promise to search for the best quality-to-price ratio, but we also set a record with a sparkling wine taking the number one spot for the first time in the history of the magazine.”

Standing out from the rest, the wine list in particular showcases more then ever the magazine’s unwavering dedication to providing its readers with incredible wine discoveries. With its creatively curated wine selection it is no wonder that Wine Enthusiast’s Best of the Year issue is setting new standards everywhere. Highlights from the list include:

A number one scoring sparkling wine
Some of the world’s best wines for $16 and under
Exciting emerging regions such as Canada, Israel and Georgia

As one of the most respected and quoted authorities in the world of wine, beer and spirits, it’s no wonder that Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s Best of Year Issue is the definitive leader and guide for the top alcoholic beverage picks year after year. Consistently featuring only the hottest trends in everything related to wine lifestyle, Wine Enthusiast’s seasoned editors do the work for their readers. The ultimate list for an amazing year, Wine Enthusiast Magazine has the best of the best for 2013.

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About Wine Enthusiast Magazine:

Wine Enthusiast Magazine educates and entertains readers about wine and the wine lifestyle in an accessible and user-friendly way. Published 13 times per year, the magazine’s readership is more than 800,000. The magazine and its Buying Guide with more than 100,000 ratings and reviews are available online. The magazine hosts signature Wine Enthusiast events for both consumer and trade. www.WineMag.com

Eve Wine 101: Sustainable or Organic Wines Choices

August 28, 2015 by evebushman

Do you select wine based on a winery’s choice in being sustainable or organic? Do you know what those terms even mean?

Lets start with some basic Definitions (from Wine Spectator’s Dr. Vinny)

These terms vary in the way they’re defined and regulated, but I’ll do my best to sort out the way they’re most typically used.

The U.S. government regulates use of the term “organic,” but “sustainable” and “biodynamic” have no legal definitions. So I’ll start with organic: there are two types of organic listings on wine bottles. Wines can be made from certified organically grown grapes, avoiding any synthetic additives, or, to take it a step further, “organic” wines are made from organically grown grapes, and are also made without any added sulfites (though naturally occurring sulfites will still be present).

Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. A biodynamic wine means that the grapes are farmed biodynamically, and that the winemaker did not make the wine with any common manipulations such as yeast additions or acidity adjustments. A wine “made from biodynamic grapes” means that a vintner used biodynamically grown grapes, but followed a less strict list of rules in winemaking.

Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. (Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.) Some third-party agencies offer sustainability certifications, and many regional industry associations are working on developing clearer standards.

If you’d like to know if a wine falls into any of these categories, check out the label. Here you’ll find a lot of clues—various trademarked symbols and logos are used, and if a winery is going to adhere to these practices, they’re likely to want you to know about it. You can also check out a winery’s website, which usually goes into details about how a wine was grown and made.

Okay, now back to me, and my own feelings to share with you at this point in your wine education. After reading the knowledgeable Dr. Vinny, do you feel compelled to seek out wines made via organic, biodynamic and/or sustainable winery practices? If so, I think you should.

I’ve tasted my fair share of wines made in many different ways. My personal opinion (and I know I may lose a few readers over this) is similar to how I feel reading a book. Does the information presented, in both fiction and non-fiction, further the story or not?

Taken a step further, and down a row of vines, if the wine tastes better because owls (in one winery case the owls had fine “condos” built for them to attract them to the property) killed a pest like gophers then that’s great. If the wine’s price increased because of the winery practices, that’s okay with me too, within reason. But if the wine takes a page from my book instead of adding to it, I’d skip the wine in the future.

To be more succinct: I’m ruled by palate and not winery practices. You have to do your own tasting/testing to make your own decision. And, if you find an organic/biodynamic/sustainable wine that tastes better because of the winery practices? Let me know about it!

(Note: a word about sulfite preservatives. There are two schools of thought: They cause headaches and they don’t cause headaches. One wine educator explained that if the sufferer also suffers headaches after eating dried fruit with sulfites then it’s the sulfites. More often, and I tend to agree, it’s dehydration that causes the headache. My rule of thumb is to consume one glass of water for every glass of wine.)

Eve Bushman has been reading, writing, taking coursework and tasting wine for over 20 years. She has obtained a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, has been the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video, authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and recently served as a guest judge for the L.A. International Wine Competition. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits that may be answered in a future column. You can also seek her marketing advice via Eve@EveBushmanConsulting.com