CHEF MICHAEL MINA AND DEL MAGUEY ANNOUNCE THE RELEASE OF DEL MAGUEY MINA GROUP BLEND, A SPECIAL CASK FINISH SINGLE VILLAGE ™ MEZCAL

August 21, 2014 by evebushman

From the heart of the maguey, and the soul of the village, Del Maguey Single Village™ Mezcal presents a new arrival to its Special Cask Finish Series, Del Maguey Mina Group Blend, released in the USA exclusively for Mina Group, a San Francisco-based restaurant management company led by James Beard award-winning Chef and Owner Michael Mina. Just 450 bottles of the Single Village ™ Mezcal micro-expression were created and will be available exclusively in Mina Group’s 20 restaurants nationwide.

With many inspirations from fine friends along the way, this partnership continues to build upon Del Maguey founder Ron Cooper’s very first Special Cask Finish experiment in 2007, created for Park Avenue Liquor in New York City, NY.

“The Del Maguey Special Cask Finish Series is the result of our passion for experimentation, bringing new flavor experiences to the world,” says Ron. “Michael Mina is always seeking out innovative ways to bring harmony and balance into his life, and into his restaurants.”

Using Jarnac French Oak, this original Special Cask Finish liquid surprises up-front with the soft tannins of a Napa cabernet sauvignon coming through from its time in the barrel, and lemon and tangerine on the palate. French oak tones carry through to the finish with notes of sweet, smoky cranberry.

“This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to taste what you could call Single Village, Single Cask Mezcal, which to my knowledge, is something that had never been imagined before Ron decided to create experimental aging at Del Maguey” said Steve Olson, aka wine geek, collaborator on the Del Maguey Mina Group Blend.

This release is the latest evolution of Mina Group’s forward-thinking beverage program, which has made their own batches of Willett Bourbon and labels of Iron Horse wines in past years.

“We’re very excited to offer more and more private labels in our restaurants and bars across the country,” stated Mina Group beverage director, Daniel Grajewski. “We are Mezcal fanatics and we’re finding our guests are fans of unique, smoky spirit as well.” Mina Group currently offers a Mezcal Last Word, a take on the classic Gin cocktail, as well as a Mezcal-rita with a spiced salt rim.

The Special Cask Finish Single Village Mezcal will be available in Mina Group restaurants across the country beginning August 1. Guests are encouraged to contact their local Mina Group restaurant for exact date of availability. Restaurants will offer a new Mezcal service in honor of the release.

ABOUT Del Maguey

Del Maguey Single Village™ Mezcal was founded in 1995 by internationally renowned artist and Mezcal visionary, Ron Cooper, introducing the world to previously unavailable 100% certified organic, artisanal Mezcal produced the original handcrafted way. Through deep cultural relationships with Zapotec Mexican Indian producers in the remote villages of Oaxaca, Mexico, Del Maguey harnesses ancient, original organic processes. Combining these methods with varying micro-climates and terroir gives each creation its own unique, rich, sweet and smoky character. Every product in our collection is made by individual family palenqueros (producers) in old-style villages. We are the first producer to credit each product after the village where our liquid is made. When you see our beautiful green bottles you know its Del Maguey. www.mezcal.com

ABOUT MINA GROUP

Mina Group Inc. is a San Francisco-based restaurant management company specializing in creating and operating upscale, innovative restaurant concepts. Mina Group is led by Chef/Owner Michael Mina whose accolades include James Beard Foundation “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage” inductee in 2013, Bon Appétit Chef of the Year, Food Arts Silver Spoon Award Winner, San Francisco Magazine Chef of the Year, and International Food and Beverage Forum’s Restaurateur of the Year. Operating since 2002, Mina Group currently manages 22 restaurant properties including MICHAEL MINA in San Francisco (Esquire Magazine’s Restaurant of the Year 2011); BOURBON STEAK and CLOCK BAR at The Westin St. Francis on Union Square in San Francisco; RN74 at Millennium Tower in San Francisco and RN74 at the Joshua Green Building in Seattle; PABU and THE RAMEN BAR at 101 California in San Francisco; BOURBON STEAK & PUB at Levi’s Stadium in Santa Clara; STRIPSTEAK at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas; MICHAEL MINA Bellagio at Bellagio in Las Vegas; MICHAEL MINA 74 at Fontainebleau Miami Beach; LOCALE MARKET and FARMTABLE KITCHEN at Sundial St. Petersburg in Florida; and THE HANDLE BAR in Jackson Hole. For a complete list of restaurants please visit http://michaelmina.net.

Mina is also the founder of The Michael Mina Wine Club. The wines are sourced from many of the same producers featured on wine lists in a number of the Michael Mina restaurants and offers two tiers of membership: Wines of Consequence and Hidden Gems. Both tiers include six bottles per shipment delivered every three months. For more information please visit www.minawineclub.com

Follow Michael Mina on Facebook at Michael Mina, twitter @ChefMichaelMina and Instagram at ChefMichaelMina.

Bulgaria the Land of Wine Pioneers

May 8, 2014 by evebushman

The Balkans are an ancient land that has given rise to such heroes as Orpheus and Spartacus. Since the Iron Age, some 3500 years ago, Thracians have long dominated Bulgaria and developed it into a mighty kingdom. The Thracians, legendary warriors of antiquity, were ready, willing, and able to hold their own against any foreign threat from the surrounding kingdoms. That is until in the 4th Century BCE, when the mighty phalanxes of Alexander the Great conquered the Thracian lands, and deposed King Teres.

With the advent of Greek settlements, wines of the Agean flourished throughout the Bulgarian lowlands. Yet for centuries, the proud and noble Thracians have managed to keep their wine traditions alive. Though Bulgaria ranks among the world’s most prolific wine producers, the country is only recently finding its identity as a modern wine producing nation.

Today, we are the city of Burgos and enjoying the sandy beaches that hug the Black Sea coast. From the veranda of Sunny Beach’s Bolero Bar, we have a captivating view as the sun begins to set. Filling the evening sky with hues of magenta striated by great golden swathes, a deep purple eventually dominates, as day gives way to night.

For this wine tasting, I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Galina Vranchev. We will be sampling some of Bulgaria’s indigenous varietals along with some special blends that have found wide favor in the international wine community.

“Do keep in mind that the Bolero Bar is considered by many to represent the pinnacle of Bulgarian cuisine,” Galina openly displayed her pride. “I took the liberty of ordering some traditional hors d’oeuvres often enjoyed with our wines.”

I was immediately impressed by the dishes that were displayed before us. Watermelon wedges with Feta cheese and fresh lime leaves. Nettle and mushroom coquettes with yogurt sauce. Lyuti chushki, roasted and marinated chili peppers. Podlucheni tirvichi, fried zucchini with dill, garlic, and yogurt. And lastly, Bulgaria’s most famous salad, Shopska. The dish is comprised of tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, parsley, onions, and Feta cheese prepared in the traditional Bulgarian style. The Shopska salad is served withy a dressing comprised of vinegar and sunflower oil accented by a blend of pepper and spices.

Mavrud is one of Bulgaria’s oldest, and definitely most popular varietals. The name comes from the Greek, macro, meaning, “black.” It is a late ripening red grape that is capable of producing tannic, spicy wines, with a potential for aging. It is also popular with Bulgarian wine makers to use Mavrud for blending. This indigenous varietal thrives in Bulgaria’s Kara Thrace region, primarily in the appellations of Asenograd, Perushitsa, Pazardzhik, Stara Zagora, and Chirpan. I am sure that by now you may be feeling a bit lost, so let’s move on to tasting the wines.

For our first selection, Galina decided on a 2003 Erigone Special Selection Mavrud. Produced by Brestovitsa Winery in the Thracian lowlands, the 2003 Mavrud has been aged between 10-12 months in Bulgarian oak. In the glass, the Erigone is deep ruby red with an almost mesmerizing sparkle. The nose is dominated by intense fruit, slightly reminiscent of blackberry, black cherries, and currants. The bouquet is accented by endearing oak nuances followed by the earthiness of the forest floor. On the palate, the wine is rich, opulent, and bursting with the flavors of black fruit, followed by both chocolate and vanilla oak notes and round tannins. The finish is long and memorable. Erigone of mythology was seduced by the god Bacchus. He did this by turning himself into a cluster of grapes. I am sure that like Bacchus, you will find this alluring wine most seductive. The alcohol content is 13% and with a bottle price of only $25.

“I was completely taken aback by the complexity of this wine,” I nodded in approval. “Wonderful bouquet as well.”

“Agreed,” Galina flashed me a wide beaming smile. “Mavrud is also very versatile and pairs nicely with most meat dishes.”

For our next selection, Galina picked 2003 Marvud & Rubin. Rubin Bolgarskii is an indigenous grape variety that was created in 1944 by the Institute of Wine and Vine in Pleven. They did this by crossing Syrah and Nebbiolo. Since it ripens early, Rubin has become quite popular throughout such European countries as Slovenia, Moldova, and Romania and is often used in blends. This is precisely what the winemakers at Brestovitsa have done with the 2003. The Mavrud & Rubin have spent 12 months aging in Bulgarian oak barrels. In the glass, its color is an intense and deep ruby red. The nose is an absolute delight. Rich in red berries, caramel, coffee, and a whisper of forest floor, all carry onto the palate. Deeply textured, velvety smooth, and a round body, the 2003 is a nicely balanced wine that presents itself quite well. The finish is long lasting and steady. The alcohol content is 13 % with a bottle price of $22.

“I am most impressed by the range of flavors from aging in Bulgarian oak,” I flashed Galina an even grin. “Most impressed.”

“Our oak is in many ways the secret of our wines,” she replied in a matter of fact tone.

“What dishes would you pair this Mavrud, Rubin blend?”

“Most all beef dishes,” Galina paused to reflect fondly. “My favorite would be Sarmi.”

“Sarmi?” I queried.

“It is a traditional Bulgarian dish of minced beef, rice, stuffed in cabbage,” she was quick to express her delight.

For our last wine, Galina selected a 2004 Cuvee Passion. Produced by the Assenovgrad Winery of central Bulgaria. The winery first opened its doors in 1947, and as of 2004, been completely renovated to meet modern international standards. Today over 65% of Assenovgrad’s wine production is exported to Western Europe, Canada, and the USA. The winery only uses the finest grapes from the Assenovgrad region. Aged 8 months in small barrels of French, American, and Bulgarian oak, this bold wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mavrud, and Rubin. In the glass, the Cuvee Passion is a glorious deep ruby red. The nose is rich and complex, with inviting aromas of vanilla and chocolate. On the palate, the 2004 shows good fruit that has been impeccably balanced. There are also pleasant accents of cinnamon, spice, vanilla, and chocolate that round out this elegant, full bodied wine. The finish is long and lasting. The alcohol content is 12% with a bottle price of $20.

“I’ve heard that Bulgarians often serve Passion Cuvee slightly chilled.”

“That is correct,” Galina paused on the moment. “However, I prefer to serve this versatile wine at a room temperature of around 65 degrees Fahrenheit.”

It is quite clear that Bulgarian wine pioneers are making their mark on the international market. These unique wines have found their greatest popularity in Germany, the Netherlands, the Baltic States, the Czech Republic, the UK, Canada, the USA, and Vietnam.

“Vietnam? But that my friends, is a different story …. “

One Traveler’s Tale

April 17, 2014 by evebushman

Lublin, Poland has been an important trading site since the early Middle Ages. Due to its economic prominence, the city has been attacked and sacked by Tatars, Ruthenes, Yotvingians, and Lithuanians. By the late 1200s, Lublin was under the rule of the Kingdom of Galicia-Volhyna and eventually by the 1400s absorbed into the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.

Today, Lublin remains a thriving commercial center that maintains its rich cultural heritage. This picturesque part of Poland has long been one of my favorite places to visit and conduct business. Lublin has long been renown for its vodka distilleries. Two of my favorite clients, Snow Leopard and V-One, produce their vodka at Lublin’s Polmos Distillery.

Recently, both Elena and I have been constantly traveling and I promised after this trip, we would take a break. She particularly likes Truskavets. This small town is in the foothills of Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains. Famed for its spas and mineral waters, Truskavets is the ideal location to get away from it all. However, I have digressed. Let’s take a look at our first vodka, V-One.

Affectionately known as “the world’s most drinkable vodka,” Paul Kazub’s recipe just may prove that assertion to be true. Distilled from 100% Spelt grains, V-One is lightly scented with aromas of sweet creamy vanilla. The palate is medium bodied and exceptionally smooth, and with a pleasurable mouthfeel. Flavors of mineral, powdered sugar, and wheat toast add to its complexity. The finish is smooth, with virtually no burn. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $30.

Is it Spelt grain that makes this vodka so intriguing? If so, what exactly is Spelt grain? Similar to wheat in appearance, Spelt grain has a much tougher husk. This could be in fact why it produces a spirit that is nuttier and slightly sweeter than most wheat vodka. Spelt grains have been an important staple since the Bronze Age. However, by the Middle Ages, it had all but become a relict crop. Today it is only found in small pockets of central Europe, northern Spain, and selected plantings in the USA.

There are other factors that also make V-One such a special and highly regarded vodka. Crafted in small batches, it is also distilled five times, which ensures a notably clean finish. Since Polmos first opened its doors in 1906, they have managed to stay on the cutting edge of producing only the best in premium vodkas. To enhance their sophisticated distillery process, Polmos is renown for combining the most modern and up to date equipment, with Old World know how.

Twice in the past, I have reviewed Snow Leopard vodka. Please refer to: “Passion for Polish Vodka,” which Eve published on 5/21/12 and “Who Said Vodka Had to be Neutral in Flavor? “which was published on 1/24/13.

After a mutually lucrative day with my business associates at Polmos, I departed for the train station. Unfortunately, I was quick to learn that I had missed my connection. To make matters worse, there were no other trains departing to Lviv, Ukraine where I was to meet Elena. The next train traveling in the direction where I needed to be was in 30 minutes, and it was bound for the small Polish border town of Przemysi. I quickly bought a ticket and called Elena so she would not worry.

Upon arrival in Przemysi, I was disappointed to learn that the next train for Lviv wasn’t until 3:00 AM. To make matters worse, I was out of Polish Zloty. I had a wallet full of Euros, US Dollars, and Ukrainian Hryvnia, but no Polish currency, at least not enough to buy a ticket. American Express Platinum card to the rescue. Unfortunately, they did not take AMEX. Surveying the station, I promptly set out to see if any of my fellow travelers were willing to exchange Zloty for the currency of their choice. I only needed 75 Zloty, but unfortunately, no takers. Last resort … cab drivers. I went outside and was in luck. The second cabby that I approached was willing to make the exchange for Euros. I quickly whipped out my mobile phone and checked the day’s exchange rate.

After thanking the cabby, I sauntered back into the station, 80 Zloty in hand, and eager to buy a ticket. I forgot to factor in tax and service charges, but it seems that luck was now on my side. The price of the ticket was 79 Zloty and some change. I jokingly told the elderly lady behind the counter to keep the change. She chuckled lightly and reminded me that I had a long wait, and there was a charge if I needed to use the WC.

As I strode briskly into the main lobby, a young university student who was also wearing a New York Yankees baseball cap greeted me. He was quick to ask what the NY on our caps meant. Since mine was a special edition cap, I showed him the small banner stating that the Yankees had won 27 World Series Championships. I further went on to boast that the Yankees had dominated baseball over the years, and the team that won the second most championships was the St. Louis Cardinals. And they had won only 11 World Series titles. Obviously not a baseball fan because he did not seem to care much. What seemed to preoccupy his thoughts was the simple fact that the NY was for New York. He then asked me join his group, and to my delight, they were sharing a bottle of Pravda.

Pravda means “truth.” This rye-based vodka is definitely one of Poland’s most popular spirits. Rated as an ultra-lux vodka, Pravda boasts that it bests all the major brands in blind tastings.

Pravda vodka dates back to 1743. First distilled by royal decree of King Augustus lll, the spirit was hailed as the “jewel of vodkas.” (Today all bottles of Pravda are adorned with a beautiful blue carbuncle to commemorate its proud heritage). Since its inception, Pravda has been distilled in Carpathia’s pristine mountain district of Bielsko-Biala. For Poles, this is the heart of historical vodka production. Pravda is distilled in small batches from late harvest rye. The nose is lightly accented by a an array of citrus aromas. On the palate, Pravda is smooth and mellow, yet losing none of the complexity that is typical of rye vodkas. There is also a hint sweetness and citrus fruit flavors, followed by a pleasing minerality. Carpathia’s spring waters are known for their mineral content. I suspect that this adds to Pravda’s flavor. There is a slight, but not unpleasant burn on the finish. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $25.

Once my newfound friends boarded their train for Krakow, I settled back and reflected on the day’s events. I had not slept for 30 hours and I was tired. To my dismay, I fell asleep. When I awoke, I learned that I had missed my train. To add to my horror, there was not another train to Lviv for 24hours. Fortunately the vodka gods were with me. The old lady working the ticket counter gave me a refund and directions to the bus depot.

Fortunately the morning bus for Lviv was in a few hours. When I called Elena, I promised to drink plenty of coffee to stay awake. She was quick to recommend espresso. She then playfully toyed with me and said that due to tardiness, and the great worry I had caused her, I had to buy her a new pair of boots.

Once my bus arrived, I was excited to see it was a luxury Euroliner. As I handed the driver my ticket, he told me there were only 12 passengers, so sit anywhere I like. Once I boarded, I was shocked to see the bus was filled with various Polish goods. In reality, I was on board with a group of smugglers. To add to my dismay, the ring was comprised of elderly ladies.

Just as I was about to doze off, one of the babusya (Ukrainian for grandmother) shoved a bottle of vodka in my face, and invited me to join them for a drink. I was quick to say that it was not my custom to drink liquor in the morning. However, I had experienced a trifling night, and the vodka was a Ukrainian favorite, Nemiroff Lex.

The Lex is a premium rye vodka that has been aged in wood for 6 months. Next the spirit is required to undergo 11 stringent stages of purification. The nose is more aromatic than the typical rye vodka. Notes of Linden Blossom and oats prevail. There is also a whisper of lemon and citrus. All follow through on the palate, yet much more prevalent. There are also some welcome flavors of spice. The mouth feel is warm and pleasurable. The finish is detectably smooth. Nemiroff Lex is indeed a vodka to be sipped and enjoyed neat. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $35.

At length, we arrived at the Lviv bus depot. Patiently awaiting my arrival was Elena, and it was no surprise to see that she was already wearing a new pair of boots. The only remaining issue was the presence of vodka on my breath. I’m sure that would cost me at least another pair of shoes.

“But that my friends, is a different story … “

Tannat Flourishes in Uruguay

February 27, 2014 by evebushman

In the shadows of the Pyranees Mountains, the terrain is rough and rugged, yet a durable Basque grape varietal has risen to world prominence and popularity. Tannat is hardy grape that produces deep, dark, dry, rustic wines. Predominantly grown, in the Madiran region of France, vintners have produced some very fine wines. Due to its verstility and popularity to be used as a blending wine, Tannat is now grown in the USA, Australia, Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay. In fact, Tannat is seen as synonymous with Uruguay.

Traditionally, it has been popular to blend Tannat with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Fer Servadou. Due to the soft tannins of Fer Servadou, it is often used to soften Tannat. However, in Uruguay, vintners take a slightly different approach. Tannat is often blended with Pinot Noir or Merlot to create softer, more well-rounded wines.

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Kasia Oreiro. We are in Urugugay’s capital city, Montevideo. This vibrant port city is lively and energetic. Montevideo is also renown for its architecture and rich cultural life. Kasia decided to hold our tasting in one of her favorite cafes, the Philomenc. French in style, the atmosphere is cozy and delightful. The Philomenc is a wonderful place to enjoy the ambiance, the people, and of course, the wine.

For our first selection, Kasia decided on a Pisano Rio de Parjos Reserve 2008 is an excellent example of the Uruguayan style. Over the years, the Pisano brothers, Daniel, Eduardo, and Gustavo have been producing some very remarkable wines. The Pisanos, with their wines from Canelones, are among the country’s top vintners. On the eye, the 2008 is deep, dark, and inky. On the nose, the bouquet is dominated with aromas of dark chocolate and coffee, followed by pleasant notes of cedar. On the palate the 2008 has abundant plum, black currant, and minerals. It is a hearty wine with a soft edge. The finish is dry and lightly tannic. The alcohol content is 14% with a bottle price of $18.

“I felt that for those readers who are unfamiliar with our style of Tannat, Pisano is a good wine for a start,” Kasia paused to collect her thoughts. “The wine has plenty of oak and a good balance of acidity and fruit.”

“Definitely a wine that is ready to drink now.”

“As for pairing,” she paused on the moment. “Grilled steak, braised ribs, roasted chicken, cassoulets, and firm aged cheeses.”

Our next selection, Puebla Del Sol 2007 30 Barricas Edition Limitada Tannat, is also from the Canelones appellation. In the glass, it is an appealing dark red striated by violet hues. On the nose, the bouquet is flushed with the aromas of ripe fruit and raisins followed by the light scent of leather and tree bark. The palate is silky textured but with just enough acidity to hold onto its balance. Flavors of berry and plum prevail, almost to the point of being overripe. The finish is layered with licorice and carob. The alcohol content is a bit higher at 14.5% with a bottle price of $25.

“A very jammy and chewy wine.”

“Definitely one to drink now,” I nodded. “With what dishes would you pair this wine?”

“Barbecue pork, grilled chicken, casseroles, rapani,” she paused lightly. “For sure, smoked Gouda cheese.”

Our next selection, Bodegas Carrau 2007 Amat Tannat is a wonderful example of Uruguayan Tannat. In the glass, the color is deep, intense, and almost black. The wine also shows some very long legs. On the nose, the bouquet is dominated by intense earthy tones, followed by hints of cherry, plums, licorice, and leather … all portraying the wine’s complexity. 0n the palate, the 2007 is earthy, complex, and dense, but with ripe tannins. Aging in oak added a nice aroma of fresh tobacco. On the back palate there was a most pleasurable hint of licorice, which gave way to elegance and length on the finish. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a bottle price of $30.

“I would pair this wine primarily with grilled meat, charcuterie, and strong cheeses,” Kasia concluded. “A very easy wine to drink.”

“I liked the wine’s firm structure,” I nodded in agreement. “I would also give it a go with spicy foods.”

For our last selection, Kasia chose a Bouza 2004 Special Barrel Tannat. The Bouza family is one of Uruguay’s most prolific wine producers, and the family has gained international notoriety for the quality of their wines. The 2004 is another wine from the Canelones appellation, and the Special Barrel selection clearly stands on its own. It is 100% Tannat and intensely powerful. In the glass, the wine is a strikingly intense ruby red. On the nose, aging in French oak is clearly evident. The bouquet is toasty with an alluring charcoal smokiness followed by subtle hints of vanilla. On the palate, the wine shows bright fruit, plums, and dried figs followed by light flavors of chocolate and cream. Over all, this wine is nicely balanced with soft tannins and a long and memorable finish. The alcohol content is 15% with a bottle price of $50.

“This is the Tannat I enjoy after a long day,” Kasia giggled under her breath. “And with some smoked Gouda cheese.”

“Yes, a mature cheese would go nicely,” I nodded in agreement. “Many of my friends and colleagues would simply enjoy this remarkable Tannat on its own.”

After several moments of silence, Kasia was first to speak. “Do you still plan to leave Montevideo tomorrow?”

“Unfortunately, duty calls,” I shook my head clearly displaying my regret. “I am booked on the afternoon flight to Istanbul.”

“The wine association and I have a parting gift, and we wish you a safe and speedy return,” Kasia presented me with a bottle of wine.

“An exceptional gift indeed,” I exclaimed knowing full well that a wine of this caliber was in the $120+ price range. “A Familia Deicas 2006 1st Cru d’ Exception Tannat. You and your colleagues are most kind, muchisimas gracias.”

“This wine is from the Juanico region,” she paused for effect. “On your next trip, we shall explore this region.”

“But that my friends, is another story … “